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  2. Fuel is worth a try. My 1991 Stealth Twin Turbo started running poorly and I start thinking big money and parts that are expensive if you can find them. Should have bought the 1991 Corvette instead.Anyway, premium with ethanol was put in in early October and the tank was nearly empty. Filled it with fresh premium and after a few miles the problem went away. Probably would not have had the problem if I had treated it with Stabil back in Oct.
  3. Today
  4. Should have read the post better. Re-read and assume same as you which is, "no current" means "no voltage". Your suggestion to check at wing root connector is best.
  5. Air box that is connected to the carbs. The carb heat valve connections are on the back side. There are 2 valves that are connected when you pull the carb heat control you close the valve to the filtered air and open the valve to the heated air. There is a spring to aid in over center when turning carb heat off.
  6. The linkage on the backside of the air chamber has a very delicate spring that can keep the flapper from closing all the way. I agree with Tom, reduced take off power sounds like a carb heat issue.
  7. The TruTrak packing list for my CTSW shows BS-B (servo motor Basic-B) and TORQ KIT; Torque Enhancer Kit.
  8. I missed that too! Yeah a year is a long time for ethanol fuel. I've used ethanol gas up to 3 months old, but I don't think I'd go much longer than that. The good news is you can drain it an put it in your car, go-kart, lawnmower, or chainsaw.
  9. Yes the LS is different than the CTSW. It actually runs a duct to the heat shroud on the muffler. It may only show a drop of 50 RPM on run up, but the loss in power is more noticeable at takeoff power After re-reading the original post I would definitely get rid of the old fuel and replace with new, or at a minimum add an equal amount of 100LL. With auto fuel that old it could lead to detonation, and that will be costly. I don't think this is your issue, but I would hate to see you ruin an engine.
  10. I'm mainly interested in a better quality exhaust system, preferably a "bolt on" system that doesn't require any welding to install. A small power bump would be a bonus.
  11. A 2010 would not have had the heavy ailerons.
  12. Was the prop re-pitched? If it was made over coarse your top RPM and climb out can be reduced. Re-check your ignition system, make sure plug wires are all snug. You'd see a problem on your mag check, but it can't hurt to check the wires. Tom is right about the K&N...you could remove the filter and do a run up and see if your power comes back. If so, just rinse the filter and reapply (much less this time) the oil. Tom, I see almost no discernible RPM difference between carb heat on and off (yes, I confirmed the door was working 😁 )...is the LS considerably different?
  13. Nice LS. Somebody's going to be very happy with it.
  14. Thanks for the info, now I need to cross check this with the SW applications, as I don't have the "heavier aileron" system of the LS and wonder if torque enhancing is needed.
  15. I have had similar before, and carb heat was on with the knob in the off position. Once the nut seccuring the cable behind the airbox came loose. The second time was an issue behind the panel. Also over application of the K&N red oil can restrict airflow. It is one of those things that takes way less than you think it should.
  16. Just did my annual with no major issues. BUT upon my first flight afterwards, I noticed a minor loss of continual power. In other words, my Rotax 912ULS was simply not turning as fast and as powerful as it did just prior to the annual. As soon as I took off I noticed my climb-out was a bit flat. My top RPM (with full power) was around 4750 to 4780. I usually get above 4900rpm with full power and when I level off, I can easily exceed the 5000 rpm if I desired. There were no major issues with the annual ... as I performed all of the following regarding the engine: BTW ... total time: 180 Compression GREAT ... 79/80 all around K&N air filter cleaned (with K&N kit) Spark plugs cleaned and gapped to factory specs Fuel flow test was perfect - both wings Gascolator screen checked and cleaned - no debris or sediment found If anything, I expected the engine to hum perfectly! But it seems to be a bit sluggish. Why oh why? I seriously doubt there is a major problem because the engine runs so smoothly. There are no misses, no weird noises or any unusual vibrations. There are two observations to consider but not sure if they mean anything. On my Dynon EGT digital gauges, two cylinders are monitored: #1 (left side of engine) and #2 (right side of engine). OBSERVATION ONE: #2 shows a slightly lower EGT, by around 100-degrees. OBSERVATION TWO: I am using 91-octane, 10% ethanol blend, that is about a year old (but the plane flew just fine before annual) I would appreciate any thoughts you may have! Tom
  17. I just pulled the Tru Trak system out of my 2010 CTLS and replaced it with the Dynon, and the Tru Trak roll servo model number is DSB BTOR. It is a torque enhancing model. Part number is 8100-010.
  18. Yesterday
  19. In investigating exhaust options I am looking at two things. One is to develop a simple low restriction exhaust without the cumbersome muffler jammed under the cowling. The second is to provide an exact duplicate of the original exhaust but with high quality construction and much lower cost. On the second, the exhaust company owner is monitoring this forum to see what kind of response there is to determine whether it is worth doing financially. At this time the small amount of hp increase if any is not the goal.
  20. A while back I attempted to obtain info from TruTrak on CT installation details for roll servo, and the type needed. BendixKing service replies where not helpful to say the least. I'm seeing used servos available from time to time, and want to pick up one when price is right, but also don't want to buy the wrong type. For roll, what is being used; DSB-B, DSB-C, etc.? I can figure out the install from there as I have support from GRT Avionics on my EFIS which will drive it, as well as mechanical side of attachments to airplane - but appreciate some insight on the servo I need to pick up. Thanks, Darrell
  21. Exhaust (flow) is not the item that will increase the BSHP of an engine, A properly tuned exhaust will utilize the resonance of the exhaust pulses to improve the volumetric efficiency, (cylinder filling). meaning that the volume of 1 cylinder is 338 cc's, and 338 cc's of air/fuel mixture make it into the cylinder on the intake stroke then the volumetric efficiency is 100%, this is almost next to impossible on a naturally aspirated(4 stroke) engine, most are running in the low %90's a perfectly tuned 4 stroke exhaust can improve that to maybe 96% but you are talking pre-turbo F1 cars. A 2 stroke can make above 100% due to the transfer ports being overlapped and the inertia of the air moving into the cylinder. but that is only at one specific range (power band) A turbo engine can increase the VE to whatever, until the ring lands decide to blow off. My point is, there is no exhaust that will improve the 912 hp levels by 10-15%. maybe at best 2% with a highly designed system
  22. Look how smooth the sling tubes are, and how good the welds are, compared to the CTs. There are often misaligned tubes welded together on the CTs, which has to create terrible flow problems.
  23. you have to see it the other way,,, you have the 100hp WITH the tuned exhaust ( and airbox) , and loosing some power with an untuned exhaust and THIS particular installation ( Titan Tornado, Searay ) is VERY Noisy....as there is no muffler. For practical reasons (fitting the cowling) , many plane manufacturers put the muffler in the back ( tractor configuration) . Flight Design did very well with this as the 4 exhaust pipes length are very similar The picture below shows a Sling 2 aircraft, they managed to have the rear pipes as long as the front ones.
  24. Interesting. I don''t think I'd want my hot exhaust blowing on the back of my prop though!
  25. I fixed that for you. Their stuff is still top-notch, but it's no longer a "more affordable" option. They are right up there with Garmin pricing now. The change seemed to happen when they went from "all in one" devices like the D-180 to the Skyview system, where they separated out the AHARS and other devices as individual (and pricey) components. On the face the panel prices look the same, but once you add all the same capability the newer stuff is 2-3x more expensive. Of course it includes capability like synthetic vision that the older panels never had, so I'm not saying there is no added value. But Dynon went from an obvious option pricewise to a premium priced option, seeming overnight when Skyview came out. Just an observation, not a knock on Dynon. As I said, their hardware is top notch, and I'm probably just jealous I don't have a newer panel in my airplane...
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