Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. I have all the parts and the shop is ready for me next week. I'm also getting a EchoUAT with gps glare shield mounted; my GDL 50 is getting mounted and wired; my Aera 760 is replacing my 496. I'm doing it without cutting the panel and instead using an Airgizmo 496 cover and a ball mount and bare wire kit to put the 760 on an arm above the 496 with an extension so it gets a foot closer to me than the panel location. Visually it will hide the 496 and carb heat / cabin heat controls and a take-off check list.
  3. Ed I'd love to hear about the swap as I am about to do the same one my CTSW. Thanks for digging into which servo is the right one. Looking forward to updates as you progress.
  4. Yesterday
  5. KentWien


    Looks like it’s home and you’ve already been out having a good time!
  6. I used a similar method only completely through the front tunnel opening (removed the tray). I cranked in left trim but not all the way. Just far enough to lower the pulley so it deflected the rudder cable down a bit. Then I flipped the cable by hand up to the nut as you did. Then I lowered the pully the rest of the way (full left trim). At that point I used a large wrench as a crow bar to move the cable toward the center of the tunnel, then flipped the cable up to the top of the pulley by hand. It wasn't that difficult 🙂 Rob
  7. KentWien


    Yes! Congratulations Ken! Enjoy!!!
  8. I ended up going with a product at Spruce by the name of "Chemseal". It appears to be a similar formulation to Pro-Seal, at less than half the price. Reviews are very good so I'll give it a shot. $20 for a 3.5oz plunger applicator.
  9. My thoughts as well, and suspect Tom's point about during maintenance is when my situation developed - prior to me. But working in the tunnel, then noticing it, and never really having to adjust the rudder trim prior I can't say for certain. And this is hard to install back on pulley. My technique was: Crank full left trim & lower right pull full down. Use fingers to flip cable up along side of pulley onto / top of the side nut. Lastly a very long screw driver (like 24") under the cable through the rear tunnel opening behind bulkhead and flip it up and over into the track.
  10. Last week
  11. During maintenance, especially during the rubber replacement, if the rods are disconnected from the steering horn on the nosegear the cables can come off the pulleys. They can also come off if the cable tension is too loose.
  12. My Rudder Trim rolled hard when adjusting to the left and easy adjusting to the right. I also noticed that I was not able to get adequate right rudder trim. The picture shows what I found today. The right rudder cable may have been off the pulley for some time. I don't know why it came off. Seems like it would be hard to do it on purpose or by accident. I did not do any work in there since I bought the plane last October. By turning the trim almost all the way to the left, it was pretty easy to use a bar to pull the cable toward the center of the tunnel, and then lift it by hand up and over into the proper position. This would be a good item to add to the annual inspection checklist 🙂 Rob
  13. Even if these were changed not long ago it could still easily be one of them. These are the two most common causes of high fuel pressure. Until they are replaced you'll never be able to rule them in or out.
  14. Does anybody know if the Caswell sealer can be used to reseal the fillers if they leak as well? One of mine has been weeping pretty badly, I was going to reseal them while I have it down for a condition inspection. If Caswell is not the right product to use, I'm open to recommendations. A buddy recommended Pro-Seal, but it's a hassle to deal with and takes forever to harden.
  15. Ken


    My new to me CTSW is on its way to Virginia! Follow along if you want.
  16. Clogged return line? Or is this a total use system with no fuel return?
  17. Roger, it has been almost a year since I have seen the airplane, but isn't the fuel pressure sending unit plumbed in after the filter? The regulator was replaced at the rubber replacement, and the pressure issues started shortly after, or it might have been after replacing the hoses in the pump assembly. The filter has been changed since then though. Blue, I know the fuel pressure sender has been replaced because it started leaking. I was not the one who replaced it, so I don't know the range, but I expect it was the same as was previously installed when Andy bought the airplane.
  18. The flight started out normal, 20 minutes in it started bouncing around - 30 and more. It even touched negative 99 at one point. I know it’s erroneous because the battery continued to charge. I would silence the alarm and the amps would bounce back into the yellow for a moment and then go red again which retriggered the alarm. It’s an audio alarm over the headset. I had to turn the EMS off. Landed at an airport, cleaned the fuse holders at the shunt. Took off and it was fine all the way home. next day it failed again. Very frustrating.
  19. I still think you're looking at a bad filter or bad pressure regulator providing everything else was done right.
  20. Thanks everyone. If I find a fix I will post here. @tom, do you know is the Sensor in that plane was replaced with the newer version, 0-150 also? This problem only started after making that change, which really is not very logical, it reduces the sensitivity / accuracy by a factor of 3. The 0-50 worked fine. Does anyone know who may have one?
  21. On Andy's plane the filter is changed every condition inspection and had no effect on the high pressure issues.
  22. If you changed the filter after the rubber change then you may still have accumulated debris. This depends on how sterile the hose change was.
  23. Hi everyone. This only started to happen after the replacement of hoses, Pressure regulator..... and Sensor I am not sure why the sensor was replaced, Dynon recommendation? I do not see an SB for it. But at this point we need to find a new Sensor and Dynon, and any one else do not have it. If anyone knows of one please post. I see a part nr for 0-150 but I am not even sure that is the part needed, not a very pleasant experience. 101693-000: Oil/Fluid Pressure Sender - Kavlico, 1/8-27 NPT, 150 PSI ??? P4055-150G or P4055-5025-6
  24. In our case, I think we tried that but the light still comes on.
  25. I have, and haven't been able to get the light to stop going off sometimes while idling, and always on takeoff roll. My A&P, who I trust, doesn't believe it to be an issue, as it only goes on for a brief time. (You're welcome to weigh in if you like.) Still, hard to ignore it's being in the red zone. We'll take another look at my condition inspection in the summer. Andy
  26. Replace the fuel filter in the engine compartment. This is a typical symptom. probably debris. Even though that fuel filter is big it takes very little to cause higher fuel pressures.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...