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  2. Door Lever Guide Plate

    I highly recommend avoiding that. I also highly recommend using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NL4BL0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 After using acetone to remove the old adhesive, I installed the above weather stripping on top of the original channel. Very easy to install . . . just peel and stick. Very clean and looks professional. Been on my airplane, almost 3 years and good as ever. Even now, it makes a tight seal when closed and has not shown any seperation. After a couple of weeks, it will form fit to door and frame.
  3. Fuel Sight Tubes

    With my engine hoist mod I can do it by myself. I will say having the second set of hands does make it easier and faster.
  4. Door Lever Guide Plate

    Ibjet, Looks like you are now a new parts supplier. I have seen a number of these broken guides.
  5. Door Lever Guide Plate

    Hi Tom, there is no down side to applying a dab of silicone on the metal door handle in the area that contacts that plastic guide. It won’t hurt a thing. I’ve been doing it on every single CT since 2006 That’s a pretty good track record of no issues. I’ve been lubing the door pins with it to since 2006 with zero issues. Silicone doesn’t belong everywhere, but here isn’t an issue. It keeps from wearing out and breaking other parts which are far more expensive and harder to deal with.
  6. Today
  7. Door Lever Guide Plate

    I personally wouldn't put silicone paste on the door handle. I have seen what it will do when used in an application where it was not intended to be used. I had to replace the set of control wheels and shafts in my Piper Warrior because of wear on the shaft. There is a replaceable guide where the shaft goes through the instrument panel. It is designed to wear, instead of the plated shaft. Before I got the airplane they had been using a clear silicone paste to lube the control shafts. Once they started using it you couldn't stop, because the controls would get gummy. Anyway it caused the shaft to wear instead of the sacrificial guide.
  8. Door Lever Guide Plate

    Sorry folks this is off subject a bit . . . Thanks Roger, I will get silicone paste to lube the door handle/plate and the pins. My door is latching pretty easily now that I put on the new hinges. It is centered in the door opening better too. My door weather stripping is old. I may have a problem when I install new weather stripping. I will plan to latch the doors from the outside and leave them latched so the rubber takes a set. I bought the weather stripping "carrier" (extruded, metal reinforced "U" channel). I was planning to buy the "D" ring weather stripping separate. Then I got a part number from Arian at FD for the complete seal with "D" ring weather strip included (from McMaster -Carr). So, not sure what I will do. Question: Have you ever bought just the channel strip and glued on the "D" ring? I will do that if I can find a good glue to attach the 2 strips. Maybe just use contact cement, but I think there is a better specialty glue for that purpose. I will let all know how well my 3D printed parts hold up.
  9. Door Lever Guide Plate

    That looks great. Well done! Thanks for posting those pics.
  10. Door Lever Guide Plate

    Good tip. Thanks Roger.
  11. Fuel Sight Tubes

    I always used to try and have 3 people, but have gotten to the point that I do it with 2 most of the time now.
  12. Door Lever Guide Plate

    I have always put a dab of silicone paste on the metal handle where it slides and contacts the plastic guide. This helps keep the metal handle from wearing and grinding down the plastic and makes it operate more smoothly with less drag. Remember the key to usually not breaking these and to stop wind from coming in the front edge of the door is to adjust the door position up at the hinge mounting. The door can be moved. The top of the door where the hinges screw in to the fuselage top plate has a metal strip so the screws / hinges can be moved forward. if you have a lot of drag on the door pins which make it hard to latch the door the pin holes can be slightly enlarged to reduce the excessive drag which reduces pin and hole wear.
  13. Fuel Sight Tubes

    With respect I know Roger is a wizard but I would not do this without having three people. Also you only need to pull the wings a few inches out. Be careful not to damage the poly tube, it is easy to disconnect if you want by undoing the blue nut but you wont need to if you only pull the wings out a bit. Same with the wires. When reinstalling remember to lube and align the ball socket at the front of the wing cause ya need to lift the wing up at the front to align it.
  14. Door Lever Guide Plate

    It fits!!! No C'sinks yet, just a test fit. Latched and unlatched a couple of times, seems to work fine! 😁
  15. Fuel Sight Tubes

    Roger and others thank you very much for this post. I’ll be studying this along with my A&P. I wish there was a video of this as tinkering with wings is intimidating to me. Roger thanks for the call offer! I may need this help! 👋🏻
  16. Yesterday
  17. Fuel Sight Tubes

    I'll throw a couple things out. 1. 6' ladders are to tall in my opinion. 5' ladders with solid insulation type foam for shims works better. You can adjust to just the right height by adding or removing shims or moving the ladder in or out. I have a fiberglass ladder that is just right, and a wooden ladder that I cut the legs off to make it just right. Another thing you can do if the ladders are just a little to tall is run the wheels up on some foam or wood blocks to raise the airplane. 2. I do this while I am waiting on fuel to drain. I use duct tape across the hinge line, 1 for each aileron and 2 for each flap, to hold the flaps and ailerons from falling. It makes removing and installing the aileron bell crank bolt easier, and the flaps stay automatically lined up.
  18. Fuel Sight Tubes

    It is easier to have one person hold the wing especially when putting them back in. That person out on the wing tip when both wings are fully in can raise or lower the wing some which helps align the spar pin holes. I use a modified engine hoist to raise and lower the wing to align holes since I’m usually by myself. Makes it easier to line the flaps up to.
  19. Fuel Sight Tubes

    I did this based on Roger's instructions for the first time over the winter, it was easy. PRO TIP: Put one wing on the ladder and have your buddy hold the other wing tip up until the spar pins are out. If you try to put ladders under both wings before pulling the spar pins out, the geometry is all wrong and both ladders won't fit under the airplane. Ask me how I know...
  20. CTSW Weight & Balance

    Here is a weight and balance file for CT Weigth_Balance.xls
  21. Fuel Sight Tubes

    Trying to change the fuel sight tubes with the wings in place is not only a challenge, but a royal PITA. I wouldn’t do it either. The opening to the sight tubes is too small and at the wrong angles to make this a viable solution. Like everyone said just do it at the wing pull and then it’s easy. Wing pull: Drain all fuel out the gas collator with the bottom cup of the gascolator off. You need two wing supports. If you allow the wings to fall it will damage your roof. You can use two 6’ ladders with a thin padding under each wing BEFORE you pull the main spar pins. Remove the nut and bolt to the ailerons just back behind the wing spar channel on each side. The ailerons will fall unless someone holds them or you slowly let the swivel bracket down with your fingers. Remove the fuel hose that comes out of the fuel bulkhead just below the fuel sight tube. Remove the wing spar pin retaining caps. Now make sure the ladders are in place and have someone hold the flaps because when you pull the pins and slide the wing out the flaps will fall. So long as the ladders are in place or at least someone is holding the wings up you can pull the spar pins. Now you can slide each wing out. Some slide easy and some need to be wiggled and pulled harder. As you pull the wings have the person holding the flap guide the wires out and any tubing so they don’t get hung up and you break them. Now you can let the wings sit on the ladders. They won’t fall off so long as some of the spar is in its channel that will keep the wing from twisting and falling. Now do your inspection and change the sight tubes. Then reverse this process. Have someone lift the flap up to guide it into its slot. Have someone lift the aileron up in position when ready to. this should get you through it. There are other little tips, but aren’t really needed for your first time. Your welcome to call me if you want more help.
  22. Fuel Sight Tubes

    Is there a video anywhere that can guide my AP removing the wings? I heard it’s easy but I can’t find a clear step by step instructional.
  23. Fuel Sight Tubes

    You should be pulling the wings every couple of years anyway, once they are out a bit the tubes are a cinch to change. Just plan on changing them out with every wing pull.
  24. Fuel Sight Tubes

    I have never done it that way, nor would I want to.
  25. Fuel Sight Tubes

    Is there a video or instructional on changing the tubes in place without wing removal. I’ve read it can be done but is tricky and takes special technique!
  26. Last week
  27. Door Lever Guide Plate

    Progress report . . . I had a couple of false starts printing my first part (after printing the supplied test part I realized my file was behaving normally). It goes thru a dry run of the first layer. Then I ran a part for over an hour and my back bedroom (laboratory, ha ha) circuit breaker tripped (when I turned on an extra light)! So, now (with all LED lights in my lab) it printed completely as shown below. I just realized that the top flange is about .012" thinner than the original part! That is baffling because the hole pattern appears to be very accurate (and has to be). I'll check out my model and add about .020" thickness to that flange (make it a tiny bit thicker than the stock part). The part comes out looking like a carbon fiber part, but this is made with "PLA +" filament. OK, I'll update when I try a part in my CT.
  28. 406 ELT requirments for Mexico

    BBP Alert: 406 issue comes to a head In the second advisory within 24 hours, the BBP has been informed that a 406 ELT will be required on all aircraft flying in Mexico. There is zero tolerance with no warnings being issued. Additional information has been provided the BBP that as of end of day, June 30, any aircraft in Mexico that does not have a 406 ELT will be grounded. As incorrectly reported earlier, there will be no warning. Mexico states that they have given the flying community over 15 years of extensions to allow time for all to add the required ELT and June 30, 2018 is the final deadline. There will be no more extensions. We are trying to find out more information regarding aircraft in Mexico past that date that do not have the required ELT. As soon as the dust settles on this one, we will do another alert. I repeat, do not take your aircraft to Mexico after June 30 if you do not have a 406 installed. And you might be making plans to move your aircraft out of Mexico if it is there without one…. More to come as we get additional information. jack@bbp
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