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It sounds like part of the problem is winter gas blend when the temperatures warm up. The RV crowd has found you can mix in a ratio of 100LL and get protection against vaporlock, you might try 2:1 or 3:1 and see if it helps. It’s remarkably easy to test your ethanol percentage. That might help dissuade that concern. Ron’s presentation goes deep into these issues:

Clear gas is easily available in Florence because of all the sand dunes. Not as cheap but less than Avgas. Try a fresh check of your area maybe someone is selling to atvs or boats. Your problem is interesting.

Running 93 octane ethanol pump mogas I have been struggling with vapor issues in my CTSW for a while now, but I wanted to work through them as far as I could without asking for help. I ran this same fuel for ten years with no issues, and it came up after I changed my fuel system to include teflon-lined hoses. The symptom has been pretty consistent: intermittent power loss when the engine is hot and the deck angle is high. This means I most often saw it on takeoff and climb out, sometimes at very low altitudes (not fun!). The RPM would drop from WOT RPM (5200-5500 with the eProp) down to about 4000rpm, often surging up and down in 2-5sec pulses. Reducing throttle and deck angle usually allows me to fly at 4000-5000rpm and land. After this first happened I re-routed a fuel line to remove a potential vapor trap and the issue went away and was gone all Summer when it was hot so I assumed it was solved. Then I went to Tampa last fall to visit Bill Ince, and we were two up departing St. Petersburg and the issue happened again out over the water, two quick pulses and then it smoothed back out but we were both a little puckered up! The problem did not recur and we continued on the 15-20 miles back to Clearwater. Before I went back to Georgia I topped off with 100LL and had no issues going back home. After I got back home I went back to mogas and had no issues all winter, so I thought maybe a difference in Florida fuel blends vs Georgia could have been the cause, or just some bad gas in Florida. Carbs were rebuilt in March, and I flew until mid-April with no issues. The last few weeks it got warmer, but only in the 70s or so. Quite suddenly I started getting the vapor issue on every flight. I tried insulating all the AN connections on my fuel lines in case they were getting hot, but no joy. Finally I switched to 100% 100LL fuel and the problem ceased immediately and has been gone for several flights. I'm fine with running avgas if necessary, but I'm still a little confused over what exactly happened or changed. I checked my gascolator screen and did a fuel flow test draining out the tanks completely and there were no issues. My ideas are: 1) The new fuel lines are teflon, stainless braided, and with integral silicone firesleeve. It's possible the new lines retain more heat than rubber hoses and lead to increased chance of vaporization of ethanol. 2) Fuel blends have changed. I read that the EPA is working on changing the max ethanol in standard fuel from 10% to 15%...I'm wondering if suppliers have begun a stealth creep up of ethanol content or other additives. 3) I changed out my fuel pump when I did the hose change...perhaps my new pump is weaker than the old one? The old one was well past replacement age and was an older revision pump, but I never had this issue until after it got changed out. Maybe the new one is just a factory dud. 4) I had to make a new heat shield for my gascolator during the fuel system changes, but it's pretty much the same thickness aluminum material and the exact same shape as the old one if not slightly larger, plus it's more reflective so should bounce more heat. I guess I could beef that up or add additional insulation. Here's what it looks like: I'm certainly open to other ideas, recommendations, or wild speculation. I know Corey recommends a boost pump installation, and I'd do that if 100LL ends up not totally curing the issue, but so far so good. I miss the cheaper fuel, but it is more convenient to just pull up to the pump.

Hose job? Maybe. Rubber job? No. You are not changing the hoses. You are changing the rubber. Just for starters, that includes the fuel pump, the carburetor sockets and the engine isolators. From Rotax-Owners forum, "The Rotax 5 year rubber replacement covers all fuel, oil and coolant lines. It covers any V-belt, carburetor diaphragm and carburetor rubber intake sockets and any other air intake rubber hose or tubing. With the new maintenance manual just out the fuel pump has been added as a replacement item too."

I have done hose changes without removing the engine, but not on a CT. In my opinion it will take less time to do the hose change with removing the engine. Also like Andy said you can't replace the engine isolators without removing it.

You might be able to, but it's far easier to at least swing the engine away from the firewall. During a rubber change you should be changing the engine mount isolators anyway, which requires disconnecting the ring mount from the firewall mount.

I have a guy here who says you can do the hose job without pulling engine?? CTSW

All engine hoses and rubber mounts due 9/2027. Aircraft was damaged about 13 yrs ago with no structural damage. Was repaired properly by Airtime Aviation.

Has the 5 year rubber been done? Any damage history? Thanks, Hayden 661-269-1999

My wife said we need to take the dog in the plane. I told her I'll take the dog and she can drive, didn't go well. So I have to buy a different plane. Dual GDU 470 G3X Dual GSU 25C ADAHRS Garmin 507 autopilot control Garmin GSA28 servos Garmin GTR 200 com GTX 327 transponder GDL 50R ADSB in Uavionix tailbeacon ADSB out Vg's installed that completely eliminate stall in prolonged flare when landing. Real landing light, Tundra landing gear with Matco wheels and brakes, new 321 stainless exhaust system, Rosen sun visors. V20 E- Prop Parachute and rocket due 2030 Condition inspection due 4/2025 tt airframe and engine 872 hours. Engine hoses due 9/2027 Much more, no shortcuts done on this plane. 75K, no tire kickers please

On my 2006 CTsw, that knob has a female threaded hole that screws onto a threaded metal post on the headrest. When the knob is unscrewed fully, it will separate from the threaded post and the headrest can then be removed from (or, more precisely, fall off of) the seat.

add /klax to windy.com I use https://windy.com/k6s2 6s2 is the identifier where I'm based. I see local surface winds and the automated weather including vfr/mvfr/ifr/lifr

I won't be at the airport for a while, but I was looking at the CTLS Parts and Assembly Manual and it shows the headrest is adjustable by using the "Fixator"? I assume this is a knob that can be loosened to move the headrest up and down. Can one unscrew this "Fixator" and remove the headrest? I'm pondering camera locations, and thought about mounting an Insta360 to get 360 video from the passenger's perspective during flight. My two options that I had thought about before looking at the P&A Manual were to mount to the spar carry-through with a suction mount of some sort that drops down, or make a mount that conforms to the seat. If the headrest is easily removable, it'd be easy to make a mount that goes where the headrest is. Anyone done this? Mark

Thanks, Guys. I put Windy on my computer and phone and am figuring out how to get the most out of it. Once I have that down I'll start on the other two to get them down also. Mark

For surface, what Tom posted. For various altitudes up to 24 hours out https://aviationweather.gov/gfa/#winds

The autopilot is a TruTrak Digiflight 2 vs, with the CT pilot face plate. I found the manual on the Bendix king website. 8300-008-DigiFlight-II-Series-Autopilot-Installation-Manual.pdf

Here's a version that may or may not be correct for your vintage head unit. There have been some pin location changes for power input, among other aspects - so use caution. Vizion Installation Manual.pdf

Your Dynon is an autopilot as well you know. I think your AP is orphaned and I don't see a manual online. My CT Pilot lost its display and I upgraded the servos to dynons and replaced the CT Pilot with a Dyno AP74.

Look on line, you should be able to find it

Thank you all for the fast replies. I will forward to my A&P. Bob

There is always a repair standard for exhaust repairs. What is your basis for approval to reinstall? I'll bet if you asked FD or Rotax they would not have one. Most exhaust systems on all aircraft have muffler issues at 1000hrs and before. Cirrus gets about 750hrs to 1000hrs. If you have cracks now you will have more later. You can't inspect the flame cone inside the muffler for issues. If it comes apart there is a good chance it may block the tailpipe, this has happened a lot and the engine fails. No one in certified ever repairs cracks in mufflers anymore, those days are gone, they have them rebuilt or buy new. LSA exhaust is no different than certified. They will kill you just as easily.

I sent one to Airtime for a repair, and they did not provide a MRA. I have someone local do repairs like this now. He has the third one this year to weld. All three have had the same issue, a small crack just inside the factory weld for the internal baffles in the muffler. I think there is a flange that is causing stress. All were inside the cabin heat muff. Make sure you have a good carbon monoxide detector, especially when you are using the heater.

No. I haven't heard of anyone getting an LOA for a small muffler repair. I've done 8-9 at my shop. You can repair that minor crack so long as you don't alter the muffler system, which you aren't.

Hello - Annual time for my CTSW. Standard 912ULS. I am NOT experimental. My A&P found a small crack in my exhaust. It appears to be where a factory weld was done. He said it most certainly can be repaired, but needs an approval since I am factory certified LSA. Do I need a letter? Thanks for your input. Bob

PM me. I know of an instructor at KSBD.