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https://www.ebay.com/itm/283890969752?epid=14059118977&itmmeta=01HS8V4CM6XNWXXX177TCFAHAV&hash=item4219386c98:g:grcAAOSwmh9e2EPt&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0B7%2BnCIbjjM1IL%2FyEVW3dQSo8MJ1RoNE4KHADuY%2FeljrLNgufTo8FHucXdQderzEAuILHqooVGQavGZaORzUip3QmfGQRsQkcdnLLUskCKQuHHLjziL7nd%2BiGNu%2FgPl32Rh6z0vWXqZsqjJ6vs54nCdLkQ8jseHVjIlDBU4P%2BV37xgFfFZA1gVko1rJM5zxrQ5ok1lm1ePZXTAHbSpjv5SxgfroI4NgZc83fJGAPKKEHm9W%2Fn2p8OdTW4RHb%2FoG3jrj8YDcmsSBb%2Fs1AUIfrjSI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5bKkZvKYw1 like
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I will show you the scenery of Korea~^^ 20230613_223536_618.mp41 like
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The strap is to support and adjust the incline of the seat, not to keep it from flopping forward. The seat should not, I repeat should not be resting on the rear bulkhead. If it is resting on the bulkhead it will cause the seat pan to crack, because it is not designed for that kind of stress. I have repaired several over the years. Some of the early airplanes had issues with the straps and adjusters slipping. For those a half hitch knot in the free end of the strap helps. Also you have to watch the positioning of the adjuster, because of the angle an placement can cause it to release when you sit in the seat.1 like
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Very nice ! I never thought about the Insta360 to made in flight video but it works really well. How do you fix it ? Could you made us a picture ? Good day !1 like
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The switches should have come with your airplane. If they got lost along the way, maybe reach out to the Gutmans at Airtime? If that fails maybe there's a CT owner in your region you could meet up with and borrow the switches. I don't know though, having -12 instead of -6 on the flap panel has to be good for a few knots of speed!1 like
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I looked at the 6mm locknut selection from Ace in Page AZ. One choice. If it's what you want, maybe it's OK. I looked at the offerings from McMaster Carr. Six selections, all well described, including what ISO and DIN standards they meet. If one needs a nut right now and thinks it's OK, one from Ace may do the job. If one is stocking nuts to have on hand, it's nice to know that the items from McMaster Carr are thoroughly described so one has a better feel for the provenance.1 like
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Andy, I wrote a long post on this very topic, with a bunch of photos. It is a PITA to get the actuator out of the CTsw, but it can be done. Then the actuator needs some disassembly to get to the actual jackscrew. Scroll up on this thread to find my post.1 like
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McMaster Carr (online) will have a very large selection of fasteners in all metric sizes, head style, strength rating (grade), and material (plated, stainless, etc). The sizes of fasteners on our airplanes are often found in the parts manual. If you get a cheap metric caliper and a metric thread pitch gauge, you will always know the exact replacement fastener.1 like
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I don't think there is any issues with other pilots or the FAA being able to see it. The only issue is with the ground antenna that are providing info for FR24 or Flight aware. They are privately owned antenna, and may not always report the info. At least that is my understanding.1 like
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I installed a GDL 82 in my 2006 CTsw (ELSA) flown in the US. I am not aware of any problems with it being detected by other pilots with ADSB-in and my FAA Public ADS-B Performance Reports have been good. Have no experience with FR24.1 like
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I'm not sure about Flight Radar or Brazil. I use Flightaware, and my GDL 82 equipped airplane does not show up all of the time. The GDL 82 is a 978 frequency. Now the 1090 airplanes always show up.1 like
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I just did one Friday evening. I had made two ground runs. Warmed it up, checked for leaks, balanced the carbs and set idle speed. Made a second run for assurance, cowled it up and made a 25 minute flight. Our airport is very open and flat terrain all around. On takeoff I made a quick check to make sure my numbers were where I thought they should be then I continued my takeoff and climb. At a comfortable altitude I made a turn back towards the airport. The turn should not be made to soon that you would overshoot the runway on a down wind landing if the engine quit, but not so late that you have no chance of making it back to the airport. Once back to the mid downwind continue to climb. From here you should keep yourself in a position to land on the runway you took off from. I climbed to around 2000 feet above the ground and orbited the airport. After landing I removed the cowling and made a thorough inspection of the engine for leaks, and made sure everything was secure and in place. I made one final idle adjustment, and released the airplane to my customer. For the OP, if you are at your home airport that first turn and position of you orbit will be your critical factors.1 like
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This cost just a few bucks to make. I've been using it 20 years. This is 1" angle iron. The two holes at the top are for the bolts that attach to the gearbox. The two bolts at the bottom are no so tight the two sides can't move. Then hop over to Harbor Freight and buy a slide hammer. that goes through another hole in the bottom rail. I have seen some make a slide hammer. You just need an all thread long bolt, two large nuts and a 5 lbs weight lifting dumbbell. Ace Aviation (Ace hardware LOL) has all the parts.1 like
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I have a home made puller that I use, but when you posted that link to the one from Aircraft Spruce I added it to my shopping cart. They showed 3 in stock at that time. By the time I got around to finishing my order they were out of stock. I figure you created a run on them by posting here.1 like
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Aluminum used is 6061-T6 and most pieces are 0.063", the radio stack center section I believe was 0.090" due to the thinner sections. Whatever you use, be sure to place a healthy radius along all the backside periphery edges so it does not tear up the mushroom when installing. Paint I used is Rostoleum, mixed satin black with a gloss gun metal, for a semi gloss outcome in a dark metallic color it took blending to achieve. I decanted the paint from rattle cans and sprayed using a touch up gun, for better coverage & appearance verses the rattle cans. I orbital DA sanded the aluminum and it's held up perfect, and creates a nice matte silver background on the etched areas revealed. Anodized aluminum is great if you have the power to etch it, and can find a color you like.1 like
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If you have the laser clamped down and steady, might be able to hit burn a second time, and double etch to work the remaining amount clean. Looks like you're on the right track.1 like
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I was speaking specifically about landing incidents/accidents. Just about every bad landing I've had in a CT were caused by either too much speed into the flare, trying to get the airplane to land before it was ready, or both. I agree with you on energy management. But I think that the low wing loading and high power-to-weight ratio of these airplanes magnifies errors of managing energy to the fast side and minimizes errors to the slow side.1 like