Anticept

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About Anticept

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    What's that red blinking light for?
  • Birthday 10/25/1986

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    Columbus, Ohio

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  1. You can have it repacked by a local certified round parachute packer if you want, BRS will send them the instructions.
  2. Seafoam is largely naptha with a couple detergents. It's all petroleum based.
  3. LS or SW? Did you recently have maintenance to the induction system performed? i ask because I am finding aircraft with the hoses backwards, so off is on and on is off for carb heat.
  4. I've opened the ignition system on mine after it had sat for a while. Yes, they do collect dew in there, and not any small amount.
  5. Not all hose clamps are equal, roger. It's like saying you can just go to the hardware store and buy perfectly good bolts and use on a plane. Definitely NOT true, not by a looooong shot. That said, some of the breeze clamps are made to milspec (not all, only a small subset). Not saying this automatically makes them good for use on rotax, but it does make them *consistent* and you know exactly what they are made of. That's worth a lot more what you get from the chinesium you find in the corner store. There's a few videos on youtube where people talk about how a higher quality hose clamp works a lot better than the hardware store stuff they tried. Breeze do make some belleville style hose clamps that are rather intriguing. The single biggest problem with worm drive clamps is that they draw the hose in one direction. Funny thing is, you can actually cause a leak by making them too tight. A second clamp going the opposite direction and tightening them together can help with this. Spring clamps are used in many areas on the cooling system near the engine, because they tend to apply almost uniform clamping force around the circumference of the hose. If I recall, rotax tried many different clamps and found that they work the best. I love fuel injector clamps, but it would be an immense pain stocking all the sizes you would need.
  6. They should have used beaded fittings. I think Flight Design is the first aircraft that I've seen use barbed fittings... everything else is either beaded for flexible, or flared rigid with a B-nut (AN818) and T sleeve (AN819).
  7. Matco Part Number WHLBRL-1 Rapco part number RA066-10600 Aircraft spruce part number for rapco, 06-16956 New Cleveland brake part number 066-10600 Old Cleveland brake part number 66-2 These are all to the same specifications and can be interchanged with no issue.
  8. The pistons are not long enough, and are relatively soft. There's a small o-ring just out of view in OP's photo which further reduces the contact surface when it's extended. To be frank, while I like matco wheels, the off center thrust on these pistons is terrible. Finally: brake disc thickness is quite important and is a significant factor! If you're having to replace liners more frequently, even when there's quite a bit of wear left, you need to do the thickness measurement as prescribed in the matco technical manual. It's wearing from BOTH sides, so while it doesn't look significant, just think what you see for wear x2.
  9. You're going to have to send it. An ADAHRS error means the air data and internal compass system has become unreliable. An ADAHRS system consists of three axis accelerometers as well as an air data computer receiving information from finely calibrated sensors, all watched by an integrity monitoring system.
  10. From the description and photo, this will be perfectly repairable, assuming the wings didn't hit too hard and damage the spars at the root. The belly crack will be a simple fix. The firewall is likely going to be damaged, that's a little bit more involved. Possibly the gear sockets, but those just get a few layers of reinforcement when that happens. The wing tips are what will take some skill to fix, however, but not terrible.
  11. That right there is probably the best buy for someone working professionally. Thank you coppercity, finding decent articulating scopes that don't cost 4-5 orders of magnitude is hard.
  12. I'm still skeptical about it's "1280*720" claim on this one. I've seen lies about this too; some of these devices up-sample the captured image. What that means is, you still have a low resolution image... they just stretched it to fit a larger resolution to pass casual observation. The higher the resolution, the noisier the image will be unless you can flood the area you are looking at with light. This is why professional cameras use large sensors. It allows for a lot more light collection in lower light settings, which means the ISO value can be lower, resulting in less noise. If you've ever taken a picture with your phone in daylight vs night, you will know what I mean. You need a LOT of light to keep the noise low. Finally, this is why high quality endoscopes tend to be fiber optic. You eliminate all of these issues, but they are expensive! I reiterate: don't obsess over all that I've said, I'm just making sure buyers are well informed. Usually there isn't a big difference between scopes in the sub 500 range.
  13. Just to make everyone aware: There's a lot of scopes that are blatantly lying about their quality. You will NOT find a cheap scope that actually delivers more than a few hundred thousand pixel resolution (640x480 is very common CMOS sensor resolution and are produced by the truck load). Those that you do find are actually bullshitting you and trying to pass off your computer or phone resolution, instead of the camera resolution. Read the whole description. For most of us though, 640x480 is more than enough. Also, be sure to pay attention to the diameter of the camera end. Rotax bores are quite small (12mm). If you intend to use attachments, you need to be even smaller. I have a 9mm tip that is sometimes a pain to use. In addition, pay attention to the device support. For example, that $5 scope that was linked doesn't support apple. And trust me when I say: you want a rigid/semi-rigid cable. Stay FAR away from flexibles!
  14. It's not that it would interfere... it's that this is a very difficult thing you are trying to do. It would be a project.
  15. The tubes have layups holding them in place in some areas. You'll have to run it quite a ways through all sorts of nooks and crannies. As for the beeps: you have to make sure an audio wire is run from the EFIS to the intercomm. This wasn't done in many SWs.