Anticept

What I am saying is there is only so far they can go. It becomes more inaccurate at higher altitudes or extreme temperatures (this affects how well fuel atomizes), hence the off the book suggestion of changing pin positions from 3 to 2 if you are operating from denver for example. In fact, that is one of the reasons these settings exist, since these are modified motorcycle carbs. These carbs are tuned for a certain richness at low altitude, that richness gap doesn't really change as you go higher because the slide doesn't compensate proportionally. While the slide continues to operate and meter, there's nothing compensating the offset from peak, so as the air thins, they subtly but gradually increase fuel air ratio. Pressure carbs are much better able to compensate over the entire operation range but we don't have those.

You missed the sarcasm. Lifepo4 batteries will still get extremely hot, and still throw off extremely nasty and flammable gas once the process begins, it's just much more difficult than lipo since its a more stable chemistry. I had a pipe crack and blast hot exhaust partway through a lead acid battery. It would have triggered it. The thermal box is enclosed on all sides save for the top so with that I am not worried about a repeat. And during taxi and takeoff when things are hottest under the cowl, it shields it from radiant heat too. The 40c upper limit is a battery chemistry limit across the battery industry as a standard for LifePo4. Above that, cell degradation issues increase with temperature as an unavoidable consequence and shorten the life of the cells.

Because thermal runway was the cause of a hot ass exhaust blasting the battery from a crack in the pipe. Right. Anyways, they've got the information on their site as to why they recommend a thermally insulating box if it's in an engine bay. Less susceptible does not mean immune, and while I am not worried about thermal runway, I AM concerned about the high cost of these batteries and prefer they last as long as possible, that means trying to get heat to soak them as minimally as possible. Lifepo4 chemistry is rated to 40c for optimal longevity and operation.

No problems... until you have problems

Ive seen an exhaust crack melt a battery. It was the lead acid battery. For me, the thermal box was worth it.

He could put a tailstand under it if he's worried about that. Reality is, microburts have potential to tear up any aircraft that isn't in a hangar. They are monstrously destructive.

44 is a lot. But it should hold. Flaps full up as far as you can get them. Line it up carefully, and don't put slack in the lines, this is what shockloads the tie down rings and such when it moves around. Ropes should be straight with some tension, but without lifting the nose. Move the tail around after tying to make sure the ropes don't go slack. Most commonly this happens because people tie down the airplane with the wings over the tie down rings... park it so that the tie down rings are slightly in front of the wings. The tail and the wing tie downs need to work against each other for the most security. And as was mentioned, the stick needs to be tied forward and in the neutral aileron position.

You won't have an issue then.

That is up to you. Technically we're not supposed to even be disassembling these actuators.

Let me clarify, there's acids that are protective for the engine because they bond to surfaces to create a protective layer, and then there are the not so protective ones that actually corrode aluminum. Eventually OAT coolants can't keep the protective layer up. I wanted to avoid getting too deep into this because my knowledge quickly runs out if someone asks about specific chemistry.

OAT coolant like dexcool is recommended for 5 years in cars too. Basically, there are components in it that turn corrosive and are neutralized by antacids. But those run out eventually. If it's an off orange color or very cloudy, it needs to be changed ASAP.

Flaps at last, or second from last lowermost setting. You want flap weight off of it or parts may shoot out when you open it, but lowest setting can make it difficult to remove the parts. Second settling lets a little weight push the parts out. IF YOU LOSE ANY PARTS, INCLUDING THE MICROSCOPIC TEFLON SPACERS (they are easy to miss when wiping down, they're barely noticeable and sits between the gear faces and the housing), you will be buying an entirely new actuator!

There is a plug on the bottom that you could open and dab some grease in, but the main reason for disassembly is to clean the crap off. Plus, you need to wipe a layer on the jack screw. Do not use excessive grease! Give everything a coating, don't jam it full. Wheel bearing greases work fine, but I would recommend a lithium rather than a clay grease.

Eyes out the window. It's not hard to crosscheck cities and landmarks. Many popular IFR avionics have rejection capabilities too.

Some of the rods don't have a way for you to do this though. Ive seen different designs of the actuator ends... some have a small enough opening that the lubricant can get inside to the jackscrew, others don't. And there's o-rings on the actuator housing where the two pieces slide into one another, so lubricant doesn't easily get in through that either.

Fuel also atomizes/vaporizes much more readily in warm weather, if given the same blend. The carbs won't compensate for that, and there's only so far they can go for mass compensation because they do use a spring, and that doesn't change with air density. I flew with the oat at -40 back in 2018. Engine ran very mildly rough. Running carb heat cleared it up,soon as I took turned it back off, back to mildly rough.

Don't really care what rotax says on this. They're being ultra conservative which is reasonable for tort defense. They are not the only ones who are capable of evaluating modifications however. Been doing it for years. Before I started doing it, the front plugs were black and wet with gas when I pulled them out after a runup. The tiny adjustment makes front and rear an even dark gold and dry on top plugs, slightly damp on lower plugs, and more balanced CHTs. The intake is unbalanced and suffers from the same issue straight intake continentals do that don't use calibrated fuel injector nozzles. You have to look closely to see the tilt. It's so barely inwards that it is practically within margin of error.

That is for stepper motors and the flaps motor is just a DC motor.

I have never heard about tilting the carbs for any other purpose but to try to richen the rear cylinders and lean the front ones. I tilt mine a couple degrees inwards. I do that to help with how dark the front plugs get, that's all.

It's invasive. Installing that style would be a lot more difficult than you think, you'll likely have to cut into the vertical stabilizer to be able to mount the anchoring. Plus pulling the coax all through the tail, which would probably be even harder. Hope you got little kids!

I also did a little more research. 316 is indeed the OLD stainless steel for high temp applications. Which also uses 316 filler. But as said, at extremely high temps like exhausts... it doesn't last as long. 321 does. Right around 950 F is where this is an issue. 321 can't be used as filler either because the titanium in it is an issue, it doesn't stay where it's supposed to. It cannot be used as a filler if you need the stabilization. 347's other stabilizers like nobium make up for it and continues to do its job even when it was used in welding, and is compatible with 321 without compromising its integrity. If 316 is used on 321, basically you have nothing better than a 316 joint. the 321 base metal stabilizers don't cross into the 316 filler.

I also can confirm my underfin is carbon fiber too, along with every CTLS model I have seen and i've repaired a few too. As far as signals go for carbon fiber: it depends on frequency. Never seen a difference GPS wise.

Someone has to take responsibility for the airworthiness of a design for S-LSA. The responsibility can fall to an association, but in order for that to happen, they also have to have the rights to the design. The FAA stated this in the NPRM if I recall when light sport was originally proposed. It doesn't matter the entity, they just have to be capable of being responsible for ongoing airworthiness. I remember Tom Peghiny telling me over the phone that there's enough interest in flight design that if the bankruptcy ended them (the original Flight Design GmbH, not the current one), he among several others would be going that route to bid on the design rights and keep it going.

This is the style used on mine. It is comant, just not sure if this is the exact model. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/comant120200gs.php

I just put on a couple drops. Won't change taking it off much at all which is already painful, but it should cover any questions that might come up.