John

Metric (mm) / 6 mm ID X 8 mm OD - F018120 Fractional and Metric FEP Fluoropolymer Tubing — Fluorostore Is similar to Teflon, but clear. Will not discolor with fuel. Should never need replacement unless damaged. John

See attached Appendix_J_Checklists_Excerpt_Revision_B.pdf

Was doing some research on tires and just found this. Have been using the Tost Aero 4.00x4 8pr tire from Wings and Wheels for years, and it works very well on the nose. It does not require extra pressure beyond 29psi, and is not too hard like the 400x4 8pr Aero Classic Tailwheel Tire, providing adequate suspension. They also last a very long time, saving on tires and labor. https://wingsandwheels.com/aircraft-parts/tires/400x4-tost-aero-8-pr.html

The D100 can drive the Dynon servos just fine. If the "linear actuator" is fitted to the roll servo (identical to the Trutrak "torque enhancer") then the shear screw is not so much an issue. There is an optional A/P control panel from Dynon that will fill the hole from the TT head. Also is not a bad idea to replace the servos after 13 years. Another thing to consider is that Dynon may not be selling & supporting the D100 much longer either. In that case the 7" Skyview is a possible replacement & will also drive the same servos. John

Recently we have seen some 912iS fuel pumps fail. Rotax also has a SB out about this; however, we have seen a recent failure with a pump not listed on the SB. It is very important to turn on the aux, and turn off the main during the run-up to be sure that the engine will run on the aux only. This step is in the 912iS operators manual, but may not be on the checklist provided by Flight Design. It is listed in the latest version of the checklist for the Dynon Skyview, including HDX. If you don't have it, a copy of the latest checklist file for 912iS CT's is attached. Insert USB- select load files, then load the TXT file below. You only need to load it on one display. John CTLSI-CHECKLISTS-15.3.3.txt

The paint crack only indicates that the area is possibly getting soft and flexing, not necessarily cracks in the carbon. Real issue is how loose the stabilator is. In this case I don’t bother removing the paint & just proceed with the repair via the tail beam mod.

Corey, Actually it wasn't necessary to remove the paint in this case as you can visually see the structure flex there when you torque the stabilator up and down. Also in the pic above you might notice the crack penetrating on the aft portion where there is no paint. Best Regards, John

Dick, Yes, this is the rib in the second photo with the arrow. This involves some carbon composite layups, and flux corners. No service bulletin that I am aware of. Was able to get a drawing from FD USA, would suggest contacting them for the most current drawing and install instructions. Best Regards, John

Eric, We recently had a plane in the shop with the spherical type bearings. They were sloppy as well. FD USA had the straight type in stock as illustrated in the MX manual. We installed the tail beam mod, and replaced the bearings with the straight type - works much better now. After removing the spherical bearings we noticed there was quite a bit of slop in them; however, they were also not installed properly and this might have led to damage. John

I am only aware of this happening with CTLS.

Have seen a number of CTLS aircraft in the shop with loose stabilators. Can't emphasize enough how serious this issue is. There seems to be 2 reasons. Cracks or flexing in the structure near where the stabilator bearings mount (see pic below) and, Bad stabilator bearings due to wear and/or improper install In some cases we find both issues. I recommend that on every preflight the stabilator be wiggled up, down and side to side. If there is any detectable play, it should be addressed. First, you should install the tail beam rib available from Flight Design. I recommend installing this on any CTLS that doesn't have it at this point. If you find cracks it should be installed immediately. Newer CTLS, and all CTLSi have this factory installed. Next, if you still have play then you may also need to replace the bearings. When installing new bearings, you do need to shim properly so you don't pre-load them, or "pich" them together. When you reinstall the balance arm, there should be no side to side play before tightening the outer nuts. If so shims can be installed between the bearings, and the balance arm to fill in the gap. If you just tighten them down to close the gap the bearings will wear prematurely. These repairs should only be completed by a properly trained and rated mechanic. Finally, if you have this issue, don't forget to fill out the Service Difficulty Report http://documents.flightdesignusa.com/Service Difficulty ReportF.pdf, or Safety of Flight Report http://documents.flightdesignusa.com/safety of flight fillableF.pdf(if you notice a sloppy elevator in flight) - it is your legal obligation. Please let me know if there are any questions. Best Regards, John

Wow thanks Gary! I have to say working with you has been nothing but a pleasure.

Thanks Tom!

Thanks for the compliment! Am very glad that you found me helpful.

Thank you Gary - was great flying with you!