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About Runtoeat

  • Rank
    Top Gun Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Belleville, Michigan
  • Interests
    Target shooting, running, flying and tinkering (i.e., trying to screw up things that are working OK)

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  1. Let's talk about grounds. Again.

    Corey, thanks for confirming the routing I described for my CT is the norm. Good info for the "correct" method for joining grounds at the starter. I'll take a look at the grounding used at my starter to determine if this needs to be attended to.
  2. Let's talk about grounds. Again.

    I understand the symbols. I do see that the 22 gage wire is woefully insufficient, should it be asked to carry a major ground load. What I was asking about is what is the main path from the battery to the ground buss shown on your diagram? On my CTSW, I believe that the ground runs from my battery "-" terminal direct to the starter solenoid attaching bolt. Then, I believe the bolt which connects the solenoid to the firewall is used to connect to the ground running to the ground buss behind the instrument panel. And, as I recall, this same bolt is used to attach the ground running to the engine. For simplicity, your diagram shows the ground points but you didn't show where these go. I is a simple matter for me to just go back and look at my plane (for the hundred plus time) to try to get the grounding main circuit logged into my brain. The wiring diagram that came with my CTSW shows this but I find it easier to manually trace wires. Good info on the ground buss. If this is anodized, like yours is, I will take care of this. It doesn't hurt to go into this area occasionally and wiggle wires and make sure screws are tight. I'll also check the main ground(s) running from my battery to their next attaching points.
  3. Let's talk about grounds. Again.

    Corey, amusing and educational. I don't see on your diagram where the ground from the battery connects to ground buss, engine, etc. I just see the grounding symbols that are in space and these don't show a return to the battery. Do I assume these return to the battery?
  4. New CTs arriving from Germany

    ct9000, we all hope you will soon be flying your CT. Please keep us posted.
  5. Rotax Radiator Cap

    My leak is fixed. The new cap is now sealing the accumulator bottle. The Loctite 648 did a nice job of sealing the coolant tube to the flange. Using this Loctite product was interesting. At first, the liquid which doesn't go into the threads is visable and remains liquid even when left overnite. There is very little color to the 648 and in this thin application, it is virtually clear. The product which did go into the threads, where there is a "no oxygen" environment (648 is anaerobic), does set up. Visually, there was no indication that anything was applied to the threaded joint. After installation back onto the engine and attachment of the coolant hose, there was no movement of the parts. The tube/plate joint was solid. Run up of the engine verified the joint is totally sealed. The 648 is also a high temperature product.
  6. Stabilator bracket crack

    Fred. Good summary. My vote would be to increase the bending stiffness by increasing top flange width plus carry this further towards the bolt hole and to extend the doubling tab to a point where it puts the load into the deeper wall section. Perhaps just extending the tab would be sufficient and is basically your point of increasing the metal thickness.
  7. Stabilator bracket crack

    Looking at this again. On the top of the bracket, the vertical flange tapers down washes out and stops right where the crack starts. On the bottom, the small doubling tab (in the 2nd picture) stops where the crack starts. This demonstrates how reinforcing can lead to bad results if not done correctly. The crack forms right where the doubling tab ends and the top flange tapers down to nothing; leaving only a couple of small flat plates that are not gusseted or flanged that are taking loads from the stabilator that are trying to bend these plates. This structure is saying, "bend here". A solution might be to extend the tab further down the flange to a point where the vertical wall of the bracket is greater depth and able to take the load. Then, keep good vertical section to the top flange this while running this past the cracked area and go well onto the top surface of the bracket, where it is allowed to wash out to the surface. I don't think any of these changes would interfere with the stabilator surface. Of course, I realize that if I designed the CT, it probably would weigh so much that it might never get off the ground.
  8. Which gas now?

    ct9000, most of us in the U.S. are in the same boat as Andy. For automotive fuel, there are not many stations that offer non-ethanol fuel in the 91+ octane. Our government has a policy of making alcohol from corn. The government then tells the fuel distribution companies that they have hundreds of thousands of gallons of alcohol to find a use for. So far, these companies have been able to get rid of the ethanol the government mandates they use by "only" putting up to a maximum of 10% in our auto fuel. 91+ octane non-ethanol auto fuel can be found but this is not in abundance. My experience using MoGas (unleaded 93 octane 10% ethanol) has been a non-event for the 9 years I have used this in my CTSW. This usage goes from ambient 100+ degrees F with 100% humidity to minus 25 degrees F. and 20% humidity. I have never found a trace of water when I sump my fuel system. There is a "plus" to using MoGas. This has a super low lead content. If there is something all Rotax owners must avoid, it is using leaded fuel. 100LL Av fuel is loaded with lead and this will choke our Rotax engines.
  9. Stabilator bracket crack

    Fred, would it be possible for you to provide the FD guidelines for repairing this bracket? There is a talented and certified welder who is close by. I examine my bracket frequently and it shows no signs of cracking. However, the cracking of your bracket is not an isolated incident. This has occurred to other CT's. I would like to understand what needs to be done to fix this, if it should happen to me. Corey, your point is well taken. Incorrect stiffening can throw stress into areas not designed to accept it.
  10. Stabilator bracket crack

    Fred, nice pictures of ugly crack. Andy was posting while I was typing. I have the same question. Would you know what procedure one must follow to correct this? I'm wondering if the bracket must be replaced or can it be welded with a follow-up check for any remaining defects - perhaps a magnaflux check afterwards?
  11. Rotax Radiator Cap

    Thanks Roger. I'll add RSHughes to my list. I've got a Grainger about 15 minutes from my house so this is my "go to" for unusual or hard-to-get stuff that is top name brand.
  12. Rotax Radiator Cap

    Mike, if you see coolant bubbling out from the joint between the tube and the plate only and not coming from under the plate, it is probably due to the failure of the loctite to seal the threads. If you only see the coolant coming from under the plate, I would say that the "O" ring needs replacing. Roger may correct me on this but after taking this Now that this has been taken apart, I see that the plate has a sleeve that the tube screws into and this sleeve goes down into the hole in the cylinder head. This sleeve has a bevel on the bottom which compresses the "O" ring against the hole wall at the bottom of the hole and seals the plate only. The "O" ring does not seal the threads so the loctite is there to keep the coolant from leaking thru the threads. The Rotax website has a informative video on all of the types of Loctite used on the Rotax engine. 243 can be used on this type of joint but, as Roger says, 648 is best to use here. It will actually glue the joint and should be the last time one will need to repair it. You mention your leak is at the front left cylinder and I think you should be able to remove the coolant inlet without removing the intake. There is a 19 x 2 mm orange "O" ring at the bottom of the hole. Rotax part #950-180. This little beauty costs $13.46. Grainger has Loctite 648. Page 144 in the Rotax parts catalog give a good view of all of the parts.
  13. Which gas now?

    We have Meijer stores in Michigan. This is a chain that tries to sell products and produce that is from Michigan. Meijer tries to support the local economy. Their gas stations are clean and well maintained. I buy my 93 oct. with ethanol here when possible and, although it isn't on Andy's "top tier" list, have never had any problems. I like to support my local stores and think these stores try to do what's good for the local people. If not able to buy locally, I try to buy is BP gas from large and clean stations. I'm sure all of the other major names are the same quality. I would just try to buy from large hi volume stations that appear to be well maintained.
  14. Rotax Radiator Cap

    Good info on "O" ring materials. An update on the coolant "weep" being working on on my CT. Once the cylinder coolant inlet tube and plate were taken apart, it was apparent that the weeping was probably not due to the "O" ring but caused by coolant getting thru the threads of the aluminum tube and the plate it screws into. Roger indicated to me that failure of the loctite seal at this threaded joint is the cause for leaks in the majority of cases and not the "O" ring. I'll reseal the joint with Loctite and also install a new (Rotax) "O" ring. Removal of the intake manifold was required to remove this cylinder coolant inlet tube. The tube had to be heated slightly to allow the loctite to soften and unscrew it from the plate. Not a 15 minute job. Especially when the threaded joint needs to sit overnite to allow the Loctite to set.
  15. Rotax Radiator Cap

    Hi Tip. I guess it's the same for all the ATV's, snowmobiles, boats and airplanes but it still hurts to pay this much. After posting, I found that I needed some "O" rings for my engine. I ordered two 19 x 2 mm "O" rings. These cost $13 each. It's crazy to pay this much for a simple part like this but metric "O" rings aren't available where I live. Lucky for me that I called back in time to include these in my radiator cap order at LEAF or it would have cost another $7 to have these shipped! Update: I was at my local hardware that's still got all of the "good stuff" that the Big Boxes don't have. I found 19 x 2.5 metric "O" rings that would have worked. These cost $3.59 each.