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chanik

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  1. Greetings,

    Congrats on getting your CT converted to E-LSA! I am looking to do the same and we live near each other. I'm in Livermore. May I ask if you would share your Program Letter with me and also ask what DAR you did this with. 

    Thanks for any assistance you can provide. I appreciate it!

    Keith Johns
    650-759-0199
    keith@flycloudniner.com

  2. One more point, Roger may have forgotten, but when I just got my plane and took it to him, my trim tab was all dimpled skin and weird looking like some people have seen with the 'skin cancer' on the bottom strake, etc. My plane was outside the SB mod serial numbers, but still, on closer inspection, Roger saw that the trim tab was of the faulty type, without the inset balance weights. So you may have the fluttery sort of trim tab.
  3. http://www.flyingmag.com/technique/proficiency/technicalities-are-you-feeling-lucky Well flutter is definitely linked to True airspeed. V speed tests are about as messy as the FAA could manage. Start with FAR 23.333 and read the next few sections, but the point is VD is defined at sea level. More specifically, there is no requirement to run testing at multiple altitudes. There is also nothing about flutter testing when setting any of these speeds you will note. FAR 23.629 describes flutter testing. But also not at different altitudes.
  4. Small point, but Vne is defined as true airspeed. Partly because flutter is a function of true airspeed, not indicated. It's a serious risk factor that many pilots with turbo'd engines that can fly very high and fast, often neglect. So how high did you do your 135kt indicated testing?
  5. BTW, the best commercial MR16 drop in by far for landing light is the new 11.5W SORAA bulb 00233 version. At 600Lm and 20deg it is narrower and more than 6x as bright and double the total light output as the former leader, the AEON V2 Aurora 7W bulb. http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/93612/LED-00233.html
  6. I would love to do a dive-fly-trip over to the Bahamas if you are planning one.
  7. I describe it in this thread http://ctflier.com/index.php?/topic/1735-position-light-and-battery-upgrades-and-fixes/. You can see it here along with the Shorai battery. http://www.johnea.net/~kurt/P1020211.JPG I had to move it in front of the box tubing to fit. Strobe noise is still there but faint.
  8. So when I switched to AVEO Ultras, I also switched to a 100,000uF cap. The pulsed current from the strobes is quite high so the bigger cap was needed to keep the coupled radio noise down.
  9. The only bad thing here is the possible damage to the battery. Once running, the generator will try to charge that battery at 12Amps or so if you throttle up. A dead battery wants to be nursed back with small current, in our case just an amp or two. Otherwise, in the discharged state the battery is highly resistive and gets damaged with high charge current
  10. Old post I did: Posted 03 July 2012 - 05:47 PM I looked at my spare keys and the ILCO YH27 is correct for the door but the ignition was a Taylor X94 blank. Rare but can be found on EBAY. I also had to chamfer down the edge of the Taylor key on both sides so it's width is tapered like the unobtainable Kraus&Naimer blank. Found them on ebay
  11. No problem. If you want a direct replacement http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?FV=fff40002%2Cfff80009%2C34007c%2Cfc01ea&k=capacitor&vendor=0&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV252=42&PV252=26 Any of these snap in ones will do. ~$6 but not really adequate if the battery goes. Would need to keep the power below 60W or so (don't run the landing light).
  12. Long but only 32mm diameter so should fit behind the square tubing like the original cap. The better Kemet one does not.
  13. Rotax very loosly specifies this part. It's a bit like a mechanical engineer saying: just use some sort of screw with 4-40 threads. What you want is computer (AKA long-life) grade aluminum electrolytic. At least 12Amp RMS rated. 105C temperature. Here is one easier to fit, but capacitance is proportional to volume and the more capacitance, the better filtering (stiffening for you audio types) http://www.newark.com/epcos/b41580a5479m/capacitor-stud-mount-25v-47000uf/dp/18T7242 There are none as little as the one that FD uses but that one is both mechanically and electrically vulnerable to failure.
  14. I was surprised at this unorthodox soldering of spades to the pins on this little cap. The pins are not designed for this sort of use and are prone to fatigue. So long as you are swapping it out, you should consider a much more substantial cap (Rotax merely says 22mF minumum) This one is 100mF with solid screw down connections and higher ripple current. Does much better tamping down transponder noise and such, http://ctflier.com/index.php?/topic/1735-the-sum-of-all-changes-electrical/page__hl__%2Belectrical+%2Bchanges
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