cdarza

Which NGK plugs caps are you using ? The Rotax ones are a bit too pricey

Update - I received and installed the new modules and so far all good with the engine. I did check the “old” modules again and I was having 1 module fail on me after a 5 to 10minute run up. This has happened on about 5 separate run ups. All good for the first roughly 10 minutes and “mag” check all good … and then complete failure on 1 module. (Engine quit) So basically in my case, my 1 module is failing only after “warming up”.

Sadly no other Rotax engines nearby so my solution route is the expensive purchase of the module/s. At this point I’m really hoping it is the module so that I don’t have another issue to figure out - oh I forgot to mention that I had these modules serviced by Carmo 4 years ago.. (memory lapse) I forgot the details but I think it was similar. Thank you very much for your comments and suggestions. Will update soon.

I checked all the wires and couldn’t find any defects. On the run up today engine started fine and switch 1 and 2 “mag” drops were initially normal. About 10 minutes into the run up one mag had rough running and the other mag the engine died. Basically same as the other day although now one side runs rough (was smooth previously) and the other engine dies. I decided to check the sparks plugs - With Module A and B connected I wasn’t getting spark on cyl 1 and 2 lower and cyl 3 and 4 upper I disconnected Module B so only Module A connected and same results I then disconnected Module A so had only module B connected .. no spark on ALL plugs Seems like confirmation that module B is faulty. What I don’t understand though is why I’m now getting the rough engine on Module A and B connected when it was running smooth before. Anyways, will go ahead and get the new modules and see if this solves my issue

Thank you and I will check on this however, I did switch the module plugs and the problem did change from the switch 1 (engine dies) to switch 2 engine dies after I switched the module plugs … thus the possible bad wire would not be on the engine side correct ? The wires on the module side are all good (no signs of any wear or tear or rubbing on the insulation) I will reinstall today and check again. If I confirm 1 module is bad would it be fine to replace just the one module or is it recommended to change both together ?

I had an ignition module issue which I believe is the module itself going bad. After proper preflight and no issue run up i takeoff and 800ft in the air thought I heard a very slight drop in engine rpm but not consistent thus I was not sure I really had an issue. As I continued downwind to land I could hear what I thought was a very slight change in rpm but still not visible on the rpm gauge. After landing I tried switch 2 and no drop in rpm at all… switch 1 and the engine dies. I left plane overnight at hangar to troubleshoot the next day. On run up next day everything is perfect. Switch 1 a 50rpm drop and switch 2 also 50rpm drop. Although all was fine, i knew there was obviously an issue from the day before. 30minutes I was checking and rechecking and switched the “mags” over 20 times with perfect response …. Just as I was about to give up for the day i noticed a drop in rpm… I tried the switch 1, 2 again and voila … engine died on switch 1. I switched the plugs and the engine would now die on switch 2. So, I conclude a module problem … unless anyone has other suggestions to look into. oh I will add that I just assume module went bad after it got hot ?? It was fine on initial start and problem came about after engine was running for sometime. Or perhaps this is just coincidence

Congratulations !! That is an absolutely beautiful aircraft!! The autos in the background ain't bad either Enjoy

I’m gonna remove the tires tomorrow to check on this but it’s looking very sketchy. (Crack on the stem) Posting so that y’all can check your tires too IMG_0538.mov

Every now and then the grounds/connectors need to be inspected and cleaned. I recently have the CHT/OIL temps going from green to red when i PTT. Usually the cleaning keeps this from happening for about a year.

If you dont mind, could you share some pictures here of the before / during and after installation pls Thanks

Check your carb bowls for any contamination - Ive had momentary loss of power/engine vibration from dirty fuel in the bowl as a result of corrosion in the bowl. And less likely the cause but still something to check - are your vent balance tubes properly attached.

I was experiencing high CHT's - I would be getting close to red line on take off. I eventually installed a second cht probe and gauge just to get comparison (different cylinder) and i was seeing normal readings on the newly installed one. After much troubleshooting, i had the wires replaced on the old/ original cht. All good since then. As to my oil temp - ive had it go from normal to red line when i switch the auto pilot on or even when i press the PTT. Ive managed to fix that for now by cleaning the connections but i expect the problem to come back as it has in the past. Hopefully your hot chts are just the 'bad wiring' but obviously best to rule everything else out.

Ok well I finally found the sw1 connector for the flap programming (hiding behind the flap breaker/fuse.) I was warned and so I will repeat; do not make your own connector if you don’t know what you are doing.

Where is the “button” we press to reprogram the flap -- that’s probably why I couldn’t get mine to reprogram - I was pressing the breaker lol EDIT : Attached pic is the auxiliary control switch to adjust the flaps up and down (sw2 as mentioned in the maint manual for programming) It says to press sw1 to save the settings into memory. This seems to be my error or lack of a step. What or where is this button sw1 that saves into memory the setting? On the maint manual diagram it looks like there is a separate switch or button attached to the flap board but i cant see anything on flap board for this. I tried pressing the center of this aux control switch (thinking maybe the center had a button???) Didnt work. Thanks for any help on this.

I too was thinking why there is no flap breaker for the flaps right where all the fuses are … should you have a “runaway” flap problem then the master switch OFF would take care of it but you would lose avionics etc.. Am I mistaken- I thought the square button was for the “reset” or used for flap programming

I think i got lucky today. Not the Pot, not the micro switches and more importantly not the board. My mechanic found a lose (disconnected) wire from behind the flap switch (it had a label "UP"). Reconnected and all good. My flap issue was the flaps would not retract after takeoff from the 15 degree setting. Went to 30 and 40 but would not go back up. I usually cycle the flaps up and down as a pre-take off check but not on this day (#&*!)

If you ever come up with workable replacement please lemme know. Trouble shooting a failed flap right now and wished it was alot simpler especially for clueless people like me.

i replaced mine with the beacon listed below. It is not a drop in and requires small modification to mount but otherwise works ok. CTSW 2006 https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/model927anti.php?clickkey=4073 The ACL4 would be another option at triple the price but ASpruce is showing not in stock. Note: My Aircraft is not in the United States (for rules/regulations purposes)

if you find an extra one, ive been looking for one too

That was an awesome ride. Thanks for sharing

i agree X3 My carb bowl was cleaned the day before. I went out for a flight and engine grumbled as i was passing 800ft on the takeoff. Found a couple small black flakes from the float in the bowl.

I had all the connectors behind the Dynon removed and reinstalled and the leak is now gone … back to the “normal” airspeeds.

I’ve got probably 5kts error (slow) indicated on cruise than I think I should be… am trying the syringe method (being very very careful) to check if there is a leak. So I pressurized the airspeed up to about 60kts and it falls quite rapidly… about a knot ever second … am I supposed to cover the static port or does our system have a drain I’m supposed to block during this test? If not then I guess I have a leak IMG_9476.MOV

How often are the mechanical pumps supposed to be replaced ? 912ULS btw just found this link which was quite informative re fuel pump: https://electricmotorglider.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/912-Fuel-Pump-Web.pdf

My issue with the carb bowls (debris) is that i have corrosion on the bowls that keeps coming back. There must be some residual moisture that collects and leaves a small amount of water that ends up corroding part of the bowl. I have a spare old pair of bowls im gonna have chromed and then test it with fuel for a couple months (not in aircraft) and see how that holds up. OR- i might need a new pair of the expensive bowls soon. (Attached pic is the one in use after i cleaned the corrosion.)