Tom Baker

I have done hose changes without removing the engine, but not on a CT. In my opinion it will take less time to do the hose change with removing the engine. Also like Andy said you can't replace the engine isolators without removing it.

The autopilot is a TruTrak Digiflight 2 vs, with the CT pilot face plate. I found the manual on the Bendix king website. 8300-008-DigiFlight-II-Series-Autopilot-Installation-Manual.pdf

I sent one to Airtime for a repair, and they did not provide a MRA. I have someone local do repairs like this now. He has the third one this year to weld. All three have had the same issue, a small crack just inside the factory weld for the internal baffles in the muffler. I think there is a flange that is causing stress. All were inside the cabin heat muff. Make sure you have a good carbon monoxide detector, especially when you are using the heater.

I normally use this from the National Weather Service. https://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=38.73&lon=-88.18&unit=0&lg=english&FcstType=graphical

The blueish coolant is likely the OEM that the airplane was shipped with from Europe. I am not certain what it looks like when there is a leak and it dries, but with the location I would suspect a small coolant leak from the hose at the spring clamp. I have seen this kind of leak before when the hose has been freshly installed. Normally a reseating of the clamp will fix it. Also it is unlikely to become a catastrophic failure, just a nuisance.

How new is the airplane,and what color is your coolant?

Thanks to all those who showed up CT fliers and all the other too.

I replaced his with a ELL80is from JMH Innovations. I don't know how many airplanes used that style, but his was the only one I've seen.

I have only been working on them since 2007, and my first rubber replacement was late 2010. I only recall SAE sized hoses factory attached hose on Rotax supplied fuel pumps. Flight Design of course used metric hoses for anything they factory installed.

Rotax no longer supplies new engines with automotive type fuel hoses, they come with Teflon hoses. When the did use Gates hoses my recollection is that they were SAE sizes and USA manufactured.

The carbon fiber structure is conductive, and attached to the engine, so it is not isolated.

How does CFR 107.140 apply in this case? It has nothing to do with the maintenance of light sport aircraft.

If you drop the "S" off of clips and search "seat belt clip" I get 438 results. Not all are relevant, but I did see some that were. As far as the Crow harness, I would suggest talking with Airtime and see what the options are.

I know I mentioned this in another thread, but myself and our EAA chapter 1304 is hosting an eclipse viewing event at the Olney-Noble Airport (KOLY) on April 8th. We will be cooking up some pulled pork for lunch. We have eclipse viewing glasses available. If you come in early or want to stay late primitive camping is allowed. If you have any questions you can email me at eaa1304eclipse2024@gmail.com .

I know I mentioned this in another thread, but myself and our EAA chapter 1304 is hosting an eclipse viewing event at the Olney-Noble Airport (KOLY) on April 8th. We will be cooking up some pulled pork for lunch. We have eclipse viewing glasses available. If you come in early or want to stay late primitive camping is allowed. If you have any questions you can email me at eaa1304eclipse2024@gmail.com .

I suggest you do a search on seat belts or seat belt clips. There has been much posted on this over the years.

The car gas in our tank is getting a little old, but I could probably pick up some fresh in jugs.

I had tried to order some from Amazon. After having the shipping pushed back a couple times, and waiting for over six months they finally just cancelled my order.

I would have done that, but I couldn't seem to copy and paste from my tablet last night.

NGK 8425 from Ebay.

Yes, the strap should always be under tension supporting the seat. The seat is designed to be supported at 3 points. The two seat rails, and where the strap attaches. If it is being supported anywhere else it will break the seat. It basically hinges on the pins in the rails, and hangs on the strap.

If you are in the second hole you can have the strap tight, and the seat will be sitting almost straight up. Or you can loosen it some and recline the seat a little. Put a little pressure on the seat bottom, and make sure the seat back is not touching the bulkhead. As long as it is not touching you are good.

The strap is to support and adjust the incline of the seat, not to keep it from flopping forward. The seat should not, I repeat should not be resting on the rear bulkhead. If it is resting on the bulkhead it will cause the seat pan to crack, because it is not designed for that kind of stress. I have repaired several over the years. Some of the early airplanes had issues with the straps and adjusters slipping. For those a half hitch knot in the free end of the strap helps. Also you have to watch the positioning of the adjuster, because of the angle an placement can cause it to release when you sit in the seat.

An ELT antenna would be about a 1/2" hole. I think I would use a couple stainless large area washers a screw and a nut. I would put a piece of 6mm 1/4" fuel hose cut just a little longer than the skin is thick at that point, and clamp it between the washers to seal the hole. Squeezing it will cause it to expand and fill the space. You might be able to get away with a stainless countersunk Tinnerman washer on the outside for a little cleaner look.

I have seen ignition switches stick on the CT, and yes the voltage does get low fast.