Stuart

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About Stuart

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    Jr. Crew Member

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    Male
  • Location
    Des Moines, Ia.
  1. I got the instructions from Flight Design and we did the re-calibration yesterday. Unfortunately, no change. It's still always clicking in the zero position and a few clicks in 30 then they stop. By the way, while the relays are clicking we never hear the flap motor energize. There is no motion of the flaps while the relays are clicking. Next step? Stuart
  2. Thanks to Roger Lee for spending some time on the phone today trying to talk me through re-calibrating our flap positions. We weren't able to get our board in to the programming mode. We seem to have a configuration that's some how different from normal. I've posted some photos to show our flap board. Maybe the pictures will help solve the mystery... The file se are the connectors I have to connect the adjustment switches. Three wires are for the rocker switch and clearly marked but SW1 and SW2 are marked but not sure how they're used... Roger had me looking for a connector behind the board. Never could find one. Here are two views of the edge of our board. Maybe you can see a connector that I've missed... See anything I missed Roger? Stuart
  3. Before you remove the position light check the switch in the console! We've replaced four of the position lights since we owned our CTLS. Each time one lamp was working the other wasn't or was intermittent. As a matter of fact, I was working on another instance of the red light flickering and not working today. I just couldn't believe another lamp had gone bad. They're LED for crying out loud! We wasted a bunch of time tracing wires and connections without success. We got to the point of giving up. We moved on to a problem with our flap control board (detailed in another thread). While removing the center console panel we suddenly noticed that the red position light was on! Some experimentation narrowed the problem to the switch. The strange thing is that only one light of three on the circuit was not working. That's why we never looked at the switch. Slowly manipulating the switch brought the lamps on brightly. We removed the switch sprayed in some contact cleaner and worked the switch for a while. The lights are now brighter than I've ever seen them and all we did was clean the switch with contact cleaner! While you may be having a different problem, it's certainly worth your while to double check the switch before you replace the lamp! Stuart
  4. We finally took the opportunity to try resetting the zero point on our flaps yesterday. It looks like the instructions in the maintenance manual may not be complete. We connected the switches to the board but whenever we try to move the flaps with switch 2 they simply return to the set position as soon as we release the switch. It seems like there must be a "programming mode" that I havent found how to turn on. Does anyone know how to do this?
  5. Great. I'll take a look through thing at the hanger. We probably have them then. I'll send another update once we've reset the zero position.
  6. I looked over the procedure in the manual about programming the flaps. Are the switches mentioned for programming already on the board or do I have to get them separately?
  7. The flaps operate normally. There is no sing of anything wrong except for the clicking. . Sounds encouraging! I'll take a look at reprogramming the 0 position in the next few days and let you all know how it goes. Stuart
  8. I finally got out to the airport to get a short video of behavior. You can easily hear the clicking. Also, you can see that it's limited to clicking in the zero degree position. The video is mp4 and can't be attached. It is shared via Google Drive here... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwFU43Dani3BbVM5YTU4TFZ4clk/edit?usp=sharing Stuart
  9. The sound is definitely a relay clicking. Dave A. at FD suggested a minor adjustment to a pot on the board but it didn't make a difference. Matt told me something over $900 for the board. Ours is a 2008 model so there may be a difference. Anticept, I'm interested in alternatives but the club isn't flush with cash. This is the plane that's suffered through some rough handling by student pilots. You've read about it in other forum posts. They would be interested but would probably want wait for the board to fail. I'll get a video next time I'm at the hanger and attach it to this thread. Thanks for the help gentlemen.
  10. The flap board in our club's CTLS has started clicking in the center console. Everything still seems to work as it should but the relays click in 0 and 15 degree position. We've replaced this board before and it very expensive. Over $900 if memory serves. I'd really like to avoid that if possible. Has any successfully dealt with this issue? Stuart
  11. We have issues with the tape at the wing roots cracking. I attribute it to the cold. A few nervous pilots point it out as a concern. You see, we had a hard landing in September. The plane was down for several months while repairs were made. Now it's flying again but everyone's on the lookout for cracks they don't like.
  12. Our CTLS has just come back from hard landing repair, annual and rubber hose replacement. Yes, we did it all at once since the engine was going to be off the plane anyway. Just before the accident that caused all this work (end of September) one of our club members reported all the electrical systems "shut down". This happened while taxiing to the runway for takeoff. According to the pilot, all avionics, interior and exterior lights all shut off. The engine was still running so he taxied back to the hanger. There were no abnormal readings or alarms prior to the failure. The next day all powered up and worked as expected. A day or two later the plane had a hard landing that took it out of service for three months. While down I had the A&P replace the 5 year old battery and generator breakers thinking one of them could be going bad and causing the electrical failure. The aircraft was put back into service last Sunday. I flew for an hour without trouble. One day later, the same pilot who had experienced electrical failure last time had it happen again. This time while warming the engine in front of our hanger. He reports that the engine continued to run so he spent some time cycling breakers with no effect. When he shut down the engine to "start from scratch" he says the engine wouldn't even turn over. No cranking. After an overnight battery charge, all seems to be working again. There have never been alarms or abnormal readings on the EMS. We're looking for where to start to identify this problem. Any ideas? Stuart Rauh
  13. Thanks Doug. Yes, I saw the thread on this topic. I'll be sure to use 5.1! Stuart
  14. Sorry Fred, I should have included that information. Our plane's avionics... Dynon EFIS-100 and EMS-120, Garmin 696, GTX330 Transponder, SL40 Comm and Tru-trak ap. The Dynon software hasn't been updated since we bought the aircraft. I plan to update it at annual in a few weeks. Stuart
  15. Our club's 2008 CTLS gets a lot of use from 16 pilots. A few of those pilots are in training and can get a little hard on the airplane. We're seeing minor cracks on the landing gear strut fairings that we've covered with some white tape. We'll eventually replace the fairings but not now while some pilots are still learning to land. Unfortunately, last week one of our students was doing touch and goes with an instructor and on one take off over-rotated and struck the tail on the pavement. It must have buckled the side of the ventral fin because a line of gel coat about 3/8" wide and 6" long cracked off. We removed the fin for inspection and fortunately there was no structural damage to the underlying fiber. Just the missing gel coat. While inspecting we did find a couple of small cracks around a few of the screw holes toward the front of the fin. We're about to ground the plane for annual so I'm looking into how to fix both the gel coat and the cracks around the holes. Is this something a fiberglass repair shop can do? Stuart