Al Downs Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 Winter is now here in Wisconsin and flying is starting to feel more like snowmobiling. The cold air comes in through all the holes in the top of the cabin. Like around the pins and the fuel site tubes. Anyplace there is a hole. It would be great in the summer if these air leaks could provide a cool breeze, but that doesn't happen. Anyone have a good solution for stopping all of the air leaks. Thanks Al Downs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnet Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 Clear packing tape Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 I second the clear tape so you can see through it for any preflight looks. Close up all holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 Be glad you can fly. Two weeks of fog followed by 3 days of winds 25G35 with more to come in sunny California. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 Don't forget to check your door seals and use Roger Lee's recommendation to add foam tape to supplement the factory seals. I could see daylight out the forward edge of my doors. All it took was some 1/8" thick sticky back foam tape to fix this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 The doors can be a big air leak up at the front edge on many CT's. You seal the cabin and the heater will drive you out it is so toasty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 Be glad you can fly. Two weeks of fog followed by 3 days of winds 25G35 with more to come in sunny California. That sounds like last week hre in Southern Illinois. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMcCand - N248CT Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 I replaced my left door seal, C9993189T at the annual. The new one is fatter rubber than the worn 2006 factory part. So fat that I had trouble closing and latching the door at first. After leaving it latched several weeks, I can close the door normally. I had to keep the latch pins lubed very well during the breakin period. So, if you have persistent door leaks that supplemental tape doesn't fix, try a new door gasket. Sorry don't have price , I think I got 4m of the material. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bseager Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 I use double sided tape placed around the various holes in the cockpit, then apply transparent window sealing material, apply heat with a blow dryer, trim the excess material and you have a perfect sealed window. Works very well and is easy to do with a bit of practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 Bseager, I like the idea of using the heat shrink plastic on the holes. How about using clear tape around the edges instead of the double back tape in order to get a nice trimed edge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 One thing about the transparent tape, based on personal experience. When the fuel gets low and you are really checking the fuel in the sight gauges, the transparent tape and maybe yellowed sight gauge can make it hard to read. I have reached up and removed the clear plastic in order to get a more accurate visual reading of the fuel level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bseager Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Dick, that should be possible, the only caution might be that the transparent film is so flimsy it would be hard to cut to the right size and tape down. With the double side you can slap an oversized piece on, shrink and then trim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N89WD Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 One other spot that can contribute to the cold air is from behind the seats. I cut 2" foam and plugged the passage. Big difference. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMcCand - N248CT Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 I turn on the night light (led) for engine and wing root when I'm looking for the fuel level. It helps even in the daytime, I guess the red LED has just a little more contrast. That, plus a little wing waggle makes the fuel visible. I also change the sight gauge tubing at most every 24 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Agree regarding the foam behind the seats. This must be done for good temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Downs Posted December 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Thanks for all the good ideas. I some of the holes with the storm window film today. It went pretty easy but the rest of the holes are around tubes etc. so I think I might try some of that putty that is used hold things in place. It comes off easy when you want it off. Of course it won't look good because the only stuff I know of is blue. Do you think a latex caulk would be ok? I was thinking of using that around the tube that holds the sun visors and around the short tubes used to grab onto when getting in and out. The long narrow gaps in various places with probably need package tape or duct tape. Duct tape will stick better but I am concerned about removing it in the spring. The weather is supposed to be better tomorrow so maybe I can take it up and determine where the rest of the leaks are coming from. Someone suggested putting foam in the holes behind the seats. I looked but could not see what they meant. Was that refering to a CTSW? Mine is a CTLS. Thanks again for all the help. I will post my results later. Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredG Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 Al, For holes around tubes, and other gaps that are not easily covered with tape, I use open cell foam rubber (the kind used to seal gaps around air conditioners) cut to make a snug push fit. No caulk, no residue. When sized correctly, it will plug gaps and it's own springiness will keep it in place. Fred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N89WD Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 Al, Yes I was refering to the SW. My mistake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Spring-Opening-Protection-Material/dp/B002SJU2M2 Is this the best stuff for re-doing the door gaskets? Seems mine are a bit leaky and coming off the edges; letting in excess noise and air Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted February 3, 2012 Report Share Posted February 3, 2012 Hi Kurt, FD has some just for this. I believe it takes 22 ft. (11' each side) and the cost is around $70 +/-. The new door molding is much better and a one piece design compared to the original molding. Your stuff won't work. It has no sealing surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.