kentuckynet Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Roger, or anyone who can asnwer this.... The bracket in this photo either has some screws added or rivets...cannot tell from the picture. Also now my cables from the carb and cabin controls are too short....can i just lengthen them? If so what is the dia and is there a good connector for attaching them? I have my bracket mounted just not sure how to attach it to the pod...did not come with any mounting or instructions. thanks mack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hi Mack, I would use Rivnuts and not Rivets. You many need or want to pull this off one day and trying to drill out Rivets may cause damage. Damage can be prevented and your life made easier using Rivnuts. The cable can be 1.2mm (3/64") to 2.3mm (3/32"). When you pull the old cable through make sure the new cable is attached and pull both together. If you pull the old one out first then try to thread a new one through it isn't an easy task because of the tube routing and it is a noncontinuous tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentuckynet Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Thanks roger, what i want to do is just add about 4 inches to the end of the cables and not remove them at all...is this possible? mack Hi Mack, I would use Rivnuts and not Rivets. You many need or want to pull this off one day and trying to drill out Rivets may cause damage. Damage can be prevented and your life made easier using Rivnuts. The cable can be 1.2mm (3/64") to 2.3mm (3/32"). When you pull the old cable through make sure the new cable is attached and pull both together. If you pull the old one out first then try to thread a new one through it isn't an easy task because of the tube routing and it is a noncontinuous tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hi Mack, I is possible and fairly easy. You can use a cable end swedge that you crimp closed. Put one wire in from one direction and the new wire from the other direction and crimp it down. It will hold just fine. You can pick those up from any aircraft supply or Ace Hardware. I know it's your favorite place just to hang with the boys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentuckynet Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 thanks roger like this? what size swedges would i need? also what size rivnuts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentuckynet Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 what about something like this since i dont have the swedge stuff http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/solderswage.php would this size work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hi Mack, I would not use a solder stop end. Use the crimp style they are in Aircraft Spruce too. You don't need for this application a fancy tool. Several types of crimp pliers will work. we are only using it on the cabin heat and carb heat cable. Use these: http://www.aircrafts...icopressstp.php A pair of fisherman's pliers will work. Use the same crimp part that you would on a lead sinker. Any small size Rivnut will work. If you want it the same as the panel use a 3mm. Rivnuts are available through MSC catalog or Ace. I'm tell'n Ya you need to open an Ace down the street. You be rich from yourself in no time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentuckynet Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Anyone know where you can buy 1.2 mm cable by the foot? and fittings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Strand-Length-Breaking-Strength/dp/B0013HEOIS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airhound Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Hi Mack, I would not use a solder stop end. Use the crimp style they are in Aircraft Spruce too. You don't need for this application a fancy tool. Several types of crimp pliers will work. we are only using it on the cabin heat and carb heat cable. Use these: http://www.aircrafts...icopressstp.php A pair of fisherman's pliers will work. Use the same crimp part that you would on a lead sinker. Any small size Rivnut will work. If you want it the same as the panel use a 3mm. Rivnuts are available through MSC catalog or Ace. I'm tell'n Ya you need to open an Ace down the street. You be rich from yourself in no time. Hi Roger, can/do nicopress fittings go bad....how does one inspect them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 To inspect just look at the cable and see if the strands are cut and fraying and look to see if the end is pulling back through the thimble. For what Mack needs to be done he doesn't really need the Nico press, just a crimp-able cable end. It isn't structural for him, just lengthening his cabin heat and carb heat cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airhound Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Rpger, regarding structural nicpresses, there was/is a maintay mfg that had nicopress failures which Produced an AD. I guess it had to do with mfg process and perhaps the tool wasn't performing to specs...But was just wondering how a nicopress could let go...I guess its all in the toolage. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 If a Nico press isn't calibrated right to give the proper measured crimp then it could let go or even cut into the cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted August 25, 2012 Report Share Posted August 25, 2012 Rpger, regarding structural nicpresses, there was/is a maintay mfg that had nicopress failures which Produced an AD. I guess it had to do with mfg process and perhaps the tool wasn't performing to specs...But was just wondering how a nicopress could let go...I guess its all in the toolage. Doug It was because whoever pressed them used the wrong slot in the tool for the size cable they were using. The check was to inspect the fitting with a go-nogo gage. at least that was one of the AD's. I think another was they used only two crimps instead of three. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying C Farms Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 It was because whoever pressed them used the wrong slot in the tool for the size cable they were using. The check was to inspect the fitting with a go-nogo gage. at least that was one of the AD's. I think another was they used only two crimps instead of three. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying C Farms Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 I have several crimp tools from my days as a repair station. The multi crimp tool is easy to put in the wrong spot. And if not done with the three crimps you will not get proper cold flow of the fitting into the cable. Regardless of the tool the Go/NoGo guage is the proper way to check the sleeve. Cut or broken strands of cable are another issue dealing with the cable. Also the cable has specs on how much should stick out of the Nico sleeve. If you need to know this then email and I will look it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
airhound Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 Thank you for the details/professional insight regarding nicopressing. Very interesting hearing the technical aspects of what looks like a simple process...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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