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Carb&Cabin Heat relocation bracket


kentuckynet

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Roger, or anyone who can asnwer this....

 

The bracket in this photo either has some screws added or rivets...cannot tell from the picture.

 

Also now my cables from the carb and cabin controls are too short....can i just lengthen them? If so what is the dia and is there a good connector for attaching them?

 

I have my bracket mounted just not sure how to attach it to the pod...did not come with any mounting or instructions.

 

thanks

mack

 

 

 

carbheat.jpg

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Hi Mack,

 

I would use Rivnuts and not Rivets. You many need or want to pull this off one day and trying to drill out Rivets may cause damage. Damage can be prevented and your life made easier using Rivnuts. The cable can be 1.2mm (3/64") to 2.3mm (3/32"). When you pull the old cable through make sure the new cable is attached and pull both together. If you pull the old one out first then try to thread a new one through it isn't an easy task because of the tube routing and it is a noncontinuous tube.

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Thanks roger,

 

what i want to do is just add about 4 inches to the end of the cables and not remove them at all...is this possible?

 

mack

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Mack,

 

I would use Rivnuts and not Rivets. You many need or want to pull this off one day and trying to drill out Rivets may cause damage. Damage can be prevented and your life made easier using Rivnuts. The cable can be 1.2mm (3/64") to 2.3mm (3/32"). When you pull the old cable through make sure the new cable is attached and pull both together. If you pull the old one out first then try to thread a new one through it isn't an easy task because of the tube routing and it is a noncontinuous tube.

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Hi Mack,

 

I is possible and fairly easy. You can use a cable end swedge that you crimp closed. Put one wire in from one direction and the new wire from the other direction and crimp it down. It will hold just fine. You can pick those up from any aircraft supply or Ace Hardware. I know it's your favorite place just to hang with the boys.dry.gif

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Hi Mack,

 

I would not use a solder stop end. Use the crimp style they are in Aircraft Spruce too. You don't need for this application a fancy tool. Several types of crimp pliers will work. we are only using it on the cabin heat and carb heat cable.

 

Use these:

http://www.aircrafts...icopressstp.php

 

A pair of fisherman's pliers will work. Use the same crimp part that you would on a lead sinker.

 

Any small size Rivnut will work. If you want it the same as the panel use a 3mm. Rivnuts are available through MSC catalog or Ace.

I'm tell'n Ya you need to open an Ace down the street. You be rich from yourself in no time.laugh.gif

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Hi Mack,

 

I would not use a solder stop end. Use the crimp style they are in Aircraft Spruce too. You don't need for this application a fancy tool. Several types of crimp pliers will work. we are only using it on the cabin heat and carb heat cable.

 

Use these:

http://www.aircrafts...icopressstp.php

 

A pair of fisherman's pliers will work. Use the same crimp part that you would on a lead sinker.

 

Any small size Rivnut will work. If you want it the same as the panel use a 3mm. Rivnuts are available through MSC catalog or Ace.

I'm tell'n Ya you need to open an Ace down the street. You be rich from yourself in no time.laugh.gif

 

 

 

 

Hi Roger, can/do nicopress fittings go bad....how does one inspect them?

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To inspect just look at the cable and see if the strands are cut and fraying and look to see if the end is pulling back through the thimble. For what Mack needs to be done he doesn't really need the Nico press, just a crimp-able cable end. It isn't structural for him, just lengthening his cabin heat and carb heat cables.

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Rpger, regarding structural nicpresses, there was/is a maintay mfg that had nicopress failures which Produced an AD. I guess it had to do with mfg process and perhaps the tool wasn't performing to specs...But was just wondering how a nicopress could let go...I guess its all in the toolage. Doug

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Rpger, regarding structural nicpresses, there was/is a maintay mfg that had nicopress failures which Produced an AD. I guess it had to do with mfg process and perhaps the tool wasn't performing to specs...But was just wondering how a nicopress could let go...I guess its all in the toolage. Doug

 

It was because whoever pressed them used the wrong slot in the tool for the size cable they were using. The check was to inspect the fitting with a go-nogo gage. at least that was one of the AD's. I think another was they used only two crimps instead of three.

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I have several crimp tools from my days as a repair station. The multi crimp tool is easy to put in the wrong spot. And if not done with the three crimps you will not get proper cold flow of the fitting into the cable. Regardless of the tool the Go/NoGo guage is the proper way to check the sleeve. Cut or broken strands of cable are another issue dealing with the cable. Also the cable has specs on how much should stick out of the Nico sleeve. If you need to know this then email and I will look it up.

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