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Dynon D100 internal battery


Roger Lee

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Just an FYI,

 

Had an issue with a Dynon D100 EFIS update yesterday and talked to Dynon. In the conversation the internal battery came up. The battery should last 3-5 years. Yes it might make 6 or 7, but Dynon says that doesn't happen very often. The internal battery should last 1 hour on its own. The way to test it is by turning the Dynon on by itself. Leave everything else off and hold down the far right button on the D100 until it comes on. Let it sit and see how long it stays on. It will eventually die. The 2006 CTSW yesterday made it about 2 minutes. The batteries cost is $130 and are special made for their unit. The battery is obtained by unscrewing the little recessed screw on the bottom front left corner. That allows the unit to slide out and the battery compartment is on the right side. The battery just unplugs.

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I just replaced my battery this year. Purchased D100 12/2007. The annual run time test ran 20 minutes, the book spec is 2 hr min.

The old battery was dated 09/07. Another indication for me was the "full charge" voltage did not get to 16.0 as required for

the annual inspection. I only got to 15.6 after charging overnight.

The test is documented in the installation manual.

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Thanks for the head's up.

 

I have a Dynon D10a. It did not come with a backup battery installed, but the dealer installed one back in 2007 since the Sky Arrow requires it for night flight under Operating Limitations.

 

I never thought to test it. I'm starting my annual condition inspection in a week or so, and that would be a convenient time to replace it since the panel has to come out anyway. I'll probably head over to the hangar in a few days and at least run the test, but may go ahead and order the battery as a preemptive strike.

 

Thanks again!

 

PS - how does the internal battery ever get to the desired 16v with a charging voltage typically under 14v? I'm assuming it boosts it via an internal transformer or something - does it?

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The batteries cost is $130 and are special made for their unit. The battery is obtained by unscrewing the little recessed screw on the bottom front left corner. That allows the unit to slide out and the battery compartment is on the right side. The battery just unplugs.

The special part is really just the plug. If you are comfortable cutting and soldering the plug onto a battery pack then this is just a 4S 18650 flat pack $38 from here http://www.all-battery.com/li-ion18650148v2600mahrechargeablebatterypackpcbprotection31098.aspx

(plus can use coupon code ABCPN1311)

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Again, thanks for the head's up.

 

I was at the airport and figured out how to display voltages on my Dynon D10A. Dropped from around 16 to about 14.2 and blinked off in less than three minutes (!).

 

Now, the chances of me finding myself in IMC AND losing my battery/charging system at the same time is vanishingly small. But a backup should be able to perform as designed, or what's the point?

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Got the battery and it seems to fit:

 

[img]8448496129_06f8551572_z.jpg[/img]

 

(Don't know why the photo won't embed, they usually do.)

 

It's a snug fit - I may loop some dental floss around it to help pull it out 5 years from now.

 

Anyway, the plug's been transferred and ready to slide it in when I get back to the hangar.

 

Thanks again!

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Update and question...

 

The battery got installed yesterday with no problem. Turned the unit on (with the whole panel out of the plane) and it showed 15v. I ran it for at least and hour, and it gradually came down to 14.8v but stayed on.

 

I put the panel in the plane yesterday, and hooked up the battery today. Turned the unit on and it showed 14.9v internal and 11.9v system.

 

But...

 

...when I turned off the master, the Dynon blinked out immediately. Normally it would show something like "Lost Power - Powering down in 30 seconds unless you push a button". Weird, since it has plenty of juice for me to turn it on and showed 14.9v still. Thaty may be a bit low, but I'd think one would want it to stay on in the event of electrical system loss if it had enough power to run on its own.

 

Ideas? Might it have lost a setting from sitting for a few days sans battery or external power?

 

Thanks in advance!

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All I can think of is a loose connector or intemittent or that the battery is depleted form your 1 hr test run. They only ship with ~20% charged. But 14.9V should still be well charged. Unless your dynon reads voltage low like mine does, off by 0.6V. 14.3V is quite depleted

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I put the plane on a charger, and after a post-annual sunup, the system voltage was 12.2 and the backup battery was up to 15.2 and it now goes to backup mode when I turn off the master, like it used to.

 

As an aside, on the runup the Dynon showed system voltage about 13.8v, while my Garmin showed 13.6v. Close enough for gov't work, while my "steam" voltmeter consistently shows about a volt higher.

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The Garmin is accurate I found. YOur Dynon reads 0.2V high, mine is 0.6V low. It is a mystery to me, since even $20 DMMs are 1% accurate so not sure why the Dynon is so bad about this. Anyway, a fully charged Li battery should be 16.8V (would show 17V on your Dynon probably.) I pulled my 2006 battery out and it measures 1.0AHr capacity now, about 45% of new so not bad after 7 years. I installed the new battery. It is very tight. I used some grease and pulled off the paper label to get it to slide in better.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Kurt,

 

I have been using the battery you suggested. Upon opening up different Dynon D-100's I have found two different batteries. One is a 14.8V and the other a 16.2V. Don't know why they put a 16.2V battery in since we don't charge that high. The 16.2 battery was the older version and the 14.8V was a newer version. They were also a 1800ma battery compared to your 2400mh battery. The new batteries seem to be working just fine. I'm now carrying the new battery because most guys with 2006 and 2007 CT's should be changed. I haven't met a single person who has tested their battery and I would have to include myself in that group. Out of sight with no visible problems, out of mind.

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It's fine. Battery specs are sketchy but in fact it is the same configuration of 4, 18650 cells in series. The nominal operating voltage is 3.7V per cell so x4 is 14.8V but really to charge them you need at least 4.1V per cell, usually 4.2V or 16.4 to 16.8V fully charged. It's just a labelling convention, you see. 16.5V or so is what the Dynon will show you when the battery is working properly and charged.

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  • 4 months later...

Just an FYI,

 

Some of you with Dynon's seem to have an unexplained power drain over a few days on your main battery. The EMS has a yellow colored "Keep Alive" wire in the #2 pin slot that should have been disconnected a long time ago. If that is still connected it draws power even when everything else is off to keep the battery in the EFI's charged. There is two connectors on the back of the EMS. The wire is in the larger 37 pin connector. If you have the special little tool to remove the pins then pop the pin, if not just cut the wire.

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