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floats

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The manual is referring to the stabilator returning to horizontal while still on the bench in the fixture.  Installed in the plane and connected to the teleflex, my stab stays where it's last put unless I push it full up or down.  Then it will relax some but it will not go back to horizontal.  Probably due to the friction of the teleflex cable and other parts of the system.  IMy stab was balanced on the bench same as you did and this was all that FD Germany required my repair facility to do.  The remaining step you must take is to perform a flight test and verify your CT performs in the different pitch trim conditions as spelled out by the directions given in the SB   You may need to adjust the length of the trim tab actuation rods to achieve the air speeds the SB requires.

Have you done a bench test ?

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There is an extra spring in some 2007 CTSWs that is also in the CTLS that prevents the stabilator from sitting neutral. Instead the stick will fall full forward when released. My 2007 has this. The spring is located under the throttle & choke lever tray. It supposedly helps improve control feel.

On takeoff roll aerodynamics overcome the spring tension and the stab goes to neutral-ish.

No spring on the LS, just the late 2007 SW's.

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No spring on the LS, just the late 2007 SW's.

 

So it was reconsidered as not beneficial?  I wonder if the factory would approve me disconnecting the spring.  I don't like that with that spring in place I can't verify the stab balance without removing it from the airplane.

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So it was reconsidered as not beneficial?  I wonder if the factory would approve me disconnecting the spring.  I don't like that with that spring in place I can't verify the stab balance without removing it from the airplane.

The stab design changed on the LS from the SW. The LS has a short trim tab.

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The stab design changed on the LS from the SW. The LS has a short trim tab.

 

Yes.  I had that in my original post, but deleted it.  

 

So, all SWs except some 2007s have full span tab and no spring.  All LS have 70% tab and no spring.  Only some 2007 SWs have the spring.  So...why?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Question to those who had to balance their stabilizer . On the attached drawing I had to switch the position of KA6060040 at the top of the drawing and KA6060040 and the bottom (the narrow tube  that goes into the wide one).  In the original position, the safety wire that I used to compress the spring as recommended would remain fully stuck between the spring and the wider piece and totally beyond reach.  The spring is working perfectly.  I suppose this has no bearing on operations

post-159-0-86144200-1430006945_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Total frustration. Second year without flying.  After one year of trying to install the stabilator that FD gave me to replace the one that became soft like tissue paper, I have not succeeded yet in getting it right,.  First I had to remove all the pellets from the counterweight to balance it.  Now I am struggling with the stabilator deflection.  I thought that replacing one stab with another it would have the same deflection.. Unfortunately , I did not measure the deflection of the original one.  The annex of the Maintenance and inspection manual says that the deflection should be 14 degrees or 30 mm with a ruler.  I have 50 mm with a ruler and barely 7 degrees of deflection. I increased the forward bushing KA6040007 forward as per the page 4-80,  I barely gained one degree when I reached the end of the rod.  Then FD USA told me to ` there is a part number KA6040050.  There are two nuts holding the control cable in place at that location.  Those are the nuts you should be adjusting.` Again I barely gained one degree.I am stuck  No idea what to do. Angle meter shows 12.3 but it started at 3.9 so the total angle is a little bit less than 9

post-159-0-03653800-1433112490_thumb.jpg

post-159-0-61301600-1433112505_thumb.jpg

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As I just noted in the post above.  I used isopropyl alcohol to remove a fuel stain on my wing today that was at least a month old.  I also used it to remove an oil stain on the nose wheel cowling that was a week old.

 

As Anticept noted, apparently this is safe.  I didn't know it till one of my hangar neighbors who is a home-builder of Lancairs said it was okay.

 

spray some on the stain, wait about 30 seconds.  then use your cleaner (i use prolong http://www.prolong-usa.com/waterless-wash-shine/) and remove the alcohol and the stain.  You may even see the stain run when you spray on the alcohol.  Make sure you clean wide, don't let the alcohol remain on the finish.

 

I also use brake-pad cleaner to clean out the radiator when it gets oil in it after an oil change, and remove that with alcohol.  That tip came from a Lone Mountain mechanic...it cleans the oil better than with just alcohol alone when a lot drips into the fins.

I noticed different prolong cleaners as the link is out of date  Which one did you use ?

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Floats, maybe I'm missing something here but the way I read the adjustment procedure, you must be doing something incorrectly when reading your digital angle gage (I call this an "inclineometer") as it relates to the 50mm change to the stabilator. Personally, I use the scale (ruler) to measure control surfaces and do not use an inclineometer.  I would imagine there is a consistent relationship between the angular and linear measurements. This seems to be supported ILO FD allowing either method to be used independently of the other to measure deflections.  Not being knowledgeable of the stab adjusment, I am not sure how the stab adjustment is done?  Perhaps one is able to set stops on the control cable which limit it's travel to allow 30mm up and 25mm down of the stab nose?  It follows that If the stab is adjusted IAW the manual for a nose up 30mm up and nose down 25mm from the NEUTRAL position (photo1 in the manual), the angular change that results should also be within the limits called out in the manual and the stab is correctly adjusted and this stage of your repair is finished.  What then follows is to set the trim tab ("anti-servo") to it's limits as called out in the manual and then flight test to insure the aircraft performs as called out in the manual.  

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Floats: Don't set a long angle gauge like that on a curved surface without some way of keeping it from tipping around. Take a piece of foam, and cut a couple of little foam feet out of it and stick it on the angle gauge. That way it's touching only two points on the stab and can't rock around. It's also pretty important to make sure your gauge is set square, as it will affect the readings.

 

Also, check calibration, make sure it's reading properly.

 

With all the problems you are having: is it possible the stabilator is the wrong one?

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I agree with Corey's comments, but more importantly, from the photo it looks like the angle gauge is not parallel to the cord of the stabilizer - it's not aligned in the direction of flight. That won't work. It will understate the change in angle, which sounds like what you're seeing.

First make sure the gauge is aligned along the direction of flight, then fix it to the horizontal with two contact points as Corey says, then take your relative angle readings.

Mike Koerner

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Thanks for comments and advice.  I have been using two different inclinometer for several days and tape them to the stab so that it does not move and the reading is consistent. I put the inclinometer back without tape for the purpose of taking a picture otherwise I have been very careful about alignment and stability

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Floats, maybe I'm missing something here but the way I read the adjustment procedure, you must be doing something incorrectly when reading your digital angle gage (I call this an "inclineometer") as it relates to the 50mm change to the stabilator. Personally, I use the scale (ruler) to measure control surfaces and do not use an inclineometer.  I would imagine there is a consistent relationship between the angular and linear measurements. This seems to be supported ILO FD allowing either method to be used independently of the other to measure deflections.  Not being knowledgeable of the stab adjusment, I am not sure how the stab adjustment is done?  Perhaps one is able to set stops on the control cable which limit it's travel to allow 30mm up and 25mm down of the stab nose?  It follows that If the stab is adjusted IAW the manual for a nose up 30mm up and nose down 25mm from the NEUTRAL position (photo1 in the manual), the angular change that results should also be within the limits called out in the manual and the stab is correctly adjusted and this stage of your repair is finished.  What then follows is to set the trim tab ("anti-servo") to it's limits as called out in the manual and then flight test to insure the aircraft performs as called out in the manual.  

I am also wondering if I am missing something as in my case there is obviously no relationship between the rueler measure and the inclinometer.  I am at lost after trying everyithing. Did you ever have a chance to measure your angle,  I would be curious

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Floats: Don't set a long angle gauge like that on a curved surface without some way of keeping it from tipping around. Take a piece of foam, and cut a couple of little foam feet out of it and stick it on the angle gauge. That way it's touching only two points on the stab and can't rock around. It's also pretty important to make sure your gauge is set square, as it will affect the readings.

 

Also, check calibration, make sure it's reading properly.

 

With all the problems you are having: is it possible the stabilator is the wrong one?

 

Floats: Don't set a long angle gauge like that on a curved surface without some way of keeping it from tipping around. Take a piece of foam, and cut a couple of little foam feet out of it and stick it on the angle gauge. That way it's touching only two points on the stab and can't rock around. It's also pretty important to make sure your gauge is set square, as it will affect the readings.

 

Also, check calibration, make sure it's reading properly.

 

With all the problems you are having: is it possible the stabilator is the wrong one?

Are not all the stab the same ?  Never thought it could be the wrong one.

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I believe the SW stabs have a full length antiservo tab, while LSs have only partials.

 

I have been shipped SW parts before for my LS (poke poke roger :P). It's very important to crosscheck first to make sure you have the right one before starting work.

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I'm out of town but will try to get an angle measurement when I get back home.  You posted your down travel is 50mm.  Can you get 30mm up when the down is so far below the limit of 25mm?  Is there a way to set stops somewhere in the system to limit the up/down travel?

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