Tom Baker Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 I'm just finishing up a hose change where I found one oil hose with the band clamp off the fitting towards the hose. It had been tightened down enough to reduce the diameter of the hose. This is the second one that I have seen like this. Both have been the hose from the sump to the oil tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Not a great photo but the hose is deformed when cold, I wonder what it looks like when hot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucegoose Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Not a great photo but the hose is deformed when cold, I wonder what it looks like when hot? hose.jpg Hey Ed, is that on the suction side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hey Ed, is that on the suction side? Yes, cooler to engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Hey Ed, is that on the suction side? The radius isn't so much reduced as the hose has become flat at the radius. I wonder if the hose flattening is the result of heat and suction more than being a little too short? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Welsch Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Put a spring in it. The Diamond motorglider ( certified 912A3 ) I once owned had springs at all oil line bends. PRW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Make sure the springs are stainless steel. Other types of metals may corrode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted June 20, 2014 Report Share Posted June 20, 2014 Could not the spring also be on the outside? I have short lengths of garden hose connectors that utilize that to keep it from kinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted June 21, 2014 Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 Could not the spring also be on the outside? I have short lengths of garden hose connectors that utilize that to keep it from kinking. Different type of material. Garden hoses are built with a nylon weave mesh built into the rubber to prevent them from kinking. The springy stuff on the outside is more to prevent your hand from kinking it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Welsch Posted June 21, 2014 Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 Don't forget the springs are in the old hoses when you change or have the hoses changed. PRW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted June 21, 2014 Report Share Posted June 21, 2014 This is what I meant: Sure seems like a properly stiff and sized external spring could aid in maintaining a proper radius in a hose bend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 With the spring exterior you probably couldn't get the fire sleeve over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 With the spring exterior you probably couldn't get the fire sleeve over it. Is it just me, or is the solution to that really, really obvious? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 It's a very easy solution. For Ed's plane all that needs to be done is; drop the muffler, loosen the fitting on the bottom of the engine and face it out to the left towards cyl. 2&4, put a new hose on with a 90 degree fitting that goes into the oil tank and get rid of the old straight one. Rotate the tank some for the new hose and fitting to align with the tank receptacle. You will need to make the outlet hose from the cooler to the tank a little longer. You now have perfectly straight hose runs that can never be a problem. I have done it to 5 CT's. Piece of cake. p.s. Don't forget to reinstall the muffler. Personally I don't use springs in oil lines, only coolant because of a reduced inner hose I.D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 It's a very easy solution. For Ed's plane all that needs to be done is; drop the muffler, loosen the fitting on the bottom of the engine and face it out to the left towards cyl. 2&4, put a new hose on with a 90 degree fitting that goes into the oil tank and get rid of the old straight one. Rotate the tank some for the new hose and fitting to align with the tank receptacle. You will need to make the outlet hose from the cooler to the tank a little longer. You now have perfectly straight hose runs that can never be a problem. I have done it to 5 CT's. Piece of cake. p.s. Don't forget to reinstall the muffler. Personally I don't use springs in oil lines, only coolant because of a reduced inner hose I.D. For Ed's plane it was the line from the cooler that wraps around under the 1/3 side to the oil pump inlet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 22, 2014 Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 Making that line longer will help. (I have done this) Too short will cause a reduced radius when hot. You can also change that routing, but I haven't had to do that mod on anyone's yet. You should be able to take the fitting that goes into the pump housing and replace it with a straight fitting and change the hose. This should straighten and shorten that hose. After I get some work done this week maybe I can get one done and take a picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 I just talked to Hot Fulsh http://www.hotflusher.com/ in Iowa. I was expecting them to tell me that I wasted my money and that the cooler was clean. Not the case. They normally only back-flush, with a reverse pulse once a second I think. They got so much debris out of my cooler that they did flushes in both directions. First they got a lot of metal, then they got a mystery material the consistency and color of cheese. A color between yellow and orange. They keep telling me that they are certain their equipment didn't produce the cheesy material. The cooler is now clean and is waiting an assessment and recommendations from the tech. Their internet is down at the moment but I understand that the photos are very interesting. hmmmmmmmmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 I just talked to Hot Fulsh http://www.hotflusher.com/ First they got a lot of metal, then they got a mystery material the consistency and color of cheese. A color between yellow and orange. They keep telling me that they are certain their equipment didn't produce the cheesy material. In car systems, generally that means that there was a gasket leak and oil got into the coolant. This is what it looks like in extreme cases. http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c209/spclefx/white_goo.jpg http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/swarf_rat/Grinder/Coolant5_zps3f6ede90.jpg http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/attachments/928-forum/364966d1245008358-another-bad-day-coolant-in-engine-oil-100_3156.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 They mentioned a gasket but I think they meant the material might have been a gasket. They don't have a clue what it is, they are concerned it might be sabotage and that I need to know what it is. Now they want to continue flushing it for a 3rd day. Are there any sealants this color? KInda matches my paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 Hi Ed, No gaskets. Everything is "O" rings except the water pump. carbs have two gasket, but they don't count here. There is no plastics of this color I know of in the engine and no sealant unless someone used something like this on you plane after its MFG. IF your gearbox has been removed what color sealant did they use when it was re-mounted? If it is yellow then they over used the sealant and it migrated to the cooler, but if you have never had that work done then it's a mute point. Rotax used to recommend a sealer that was yellow, but not any more. D Did this problem start right after your hose change? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Cesnalis Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Ed, Did this problem start right after your hose change? It started on the way to the 2nd McMincville fly-in. At least the overheating did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 I can't imagine what this stuff is. I would have them send as much back to you as possible and send it to AvLabs and find out what it is. I agree it sure looks like your paint, but I can't see how it would get in the oil system. 1.5 years ago I flushed my oil cooler and it was clean. Did it over a white rag with a powerful solvent and high pressure . Got nothing blowing in either direction. You may not need to do any other mods other than this cleaning, but I would put a spring in where I just posted in the oil line coming off the right side of the oil coller going around into the oil pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coppercity Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Yellow plastic from a Prestone coolant bottle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Hi Eric, How did it get in the oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 Is the amount in the picture all of it or is there more? Would this amount be sufficient to cause the reduction in oil flow necessary to increase oil temps? Does it stay in this state at all temps or does it change characteristics at different temperatures and pressures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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