S3flyer Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 I'm jumping the gun a bit but my plane is having trouble starting and it is possible that one or both of the ignition modules have gone bad. I've got a mechanic coming out tomorrow to go through the litany of possibilities from plugs to carb to throttle cables to air filters to whatever. Hopefully, its something simple but..... Ignition modules are approximately $1K each (ouch!) and I've heard that the Rotax soft start kit includes replacements for both modules for quite a bit less. Lockwood has: http://www.lockwood.aero/p-3710-advanced-soft-start-start-module-kit.aspx which includes two modules for about $950. Is this the right kit or is there another part number? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 That's the one. Before you go crazy try this very simple test. No work involved. Try a start if it won't start, then stop right there. Place an ice bag around the modules for 20-30 minutes to cool them down. If it starts buy the new soft start models. If this doesn't work then look at the 6 pin connectors up by the ignition models for broken or abraded wires. Especially the red ones. Tony is right. Make sure the battery is turning the prop fast enough. Jump it if need be to make sure you have enough juice. If you are just a tad slow, which you wouldn't be able to detect, it would not start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony & Rose Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 Confirm battery has the 'horse power', not just voltage showing. I have the soft-start; but if the battery delivery reduces output, it also will have starting problems. FYI -- I'm aware of three CTsw units (late '06) that have had module failure. Two with one module, the other with both. I believe the failed units have been forwarded to Lockwood for their review, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tip Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 I had modules fail on my 2008. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Interestingly, I just got back from the airport. Had a BFR (for me) scheduled for tomorrow, and I just wanted to check the fuel and make sure the plane would start. It wouldn't. Crank and crank and crank. Choke and no choke. No throttle and full throttle. Suspected flooding so fuel valve off, full throttle, crank and crank and crank - not so much as a sputter. Pulled 2 plugs. Top was dry, bottom only a tad damp. On the bright side, my Aerovolz lithium iron battery spun the engine with authority throughout. When I was done, I stuck it on a battery tender which showed "Full Charge". I checked it and it's still at 12.99v after all that cranking. I do have the BullyHawk module. In any case, I'll try again in the morning and ket you guys know what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S3flyer Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Like Eddie, I'm pretty sure the battery is fine. It's a one month old PC-310 and after the same amount of cranking that Eddie described showed a full charge on the Odyssey charger. I'll update in the morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Do the ice trick. It easy and cheap. If it works then the starting circuit on your models are shot. This seemed to affect more 2006-2007 engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Mine is a 2007. It was not especially hot yesterday - maybe 75°, and will be cooler this morning when I try again. I'll take some ice along, and if it doesn't start, I'll give that a try. Am I correct that there are two ignition modules stock, but they can both fail simultaneously in this manner? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S3flyer Posted August 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 Eddie -- hope you had better luck than me. All tests pointed to bad ignition modules so I put in an order a CPS for part number 881 280 (Advanced Soft Start Module) for, gulp, $995 (or one aviation unit ). They are back ordered and due on on the 18th. 3 of the 6 are already claimed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 No better luck. Give me a while and I'll start a new thread so as not to hijack this one. Still curious as to how 2 modules could fail simultaneously as the plane sat between flights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 1, 2014 Report Share Posted August 1, 2014 One module may not be enough on four plugs to get the engine cranking when cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogerck Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Is installation of the soft start modules plug and play? Are there any particular gotcha's related to the installation? Roger Kuhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 They are a 6 pin plug and play except for two easy to install wires. On each module a corner wire is left out. You will add this wire to each module and run them down to the starter solenoid. You will pull off the middle small bottom wire on the solenoid between the two wires of larger size coming and going off each side. Cut the electrical connector off and now join your two new wires from the modules to this wire with a new connector. When the key is turned this will energize the soft start feature in each module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 The BullyHawk install to the starter solenoid is similar, but uses a "piggyback" spade connector so the factory connector can stay unmolested: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 You can use a double connector if you would like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogerck Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Roger, On this Rotax video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koUsBqTQJ5I there's a comment about the soft start only using one module for start up and a different switch arrangement being required. To make sure I understand, is this an issue for the CT and is an rewiring of the start key required? Roger Kuhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 It is not an issue. That was the way they originally wanted it, but you can just replace what you have. You also won't get the full benefit because you would need to also replace your flywheel, but the modules alone will make a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tip Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 Dave, Check with Leading Edge or Lockwood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacques Posted August 3, 2014 Report Share Posted August 3, 2014 If anybody wants a BullyHawk Soft Start Module,,,I have a few at bargain prices Lockwood part # EASSM001A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opticsguy Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 FWIW, both of mine failed in hot weather but would run fine when it was below 60F or so. The ice trick never worked though I tried it multiple times. I bit the bullet and bought new modules, the ones that run in "soft start" mode for 5 seconds or so. The engine runs fairly rough until the 5 seconds are up. How that is better for the engine is beyond me. Late 2006 build, BTW. First failulre in 2009, replaced in 2011. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chanik Posted August 6, 2014 Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 On the bright side, my Aerovolz lithium iron battery spun the engine with authority throughout. When I was done, I stuck it on a battery tender which showed "Full Charge". I checked it and it's still at 12.99v after all that cranking.NB, with LiFePO4 batteries, 12.99V unloaded corresponds to 30% state of charge. Your tender is calibrated for Pb for which 12.8V or above is 100% SOC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted August 7, 2014 Report Share Posted August 7, 2014 Thanks. May be time to invest in a dedicated lithium iron calibrated charger.* *I have a lithium iron battery in my Buell as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.