Tom Baker Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Use the rotax manual for starting procedure, not the airframe manual. I've seen several airframe manufacturers get it wrong in lycoming and continentals too. I think diamond calls for half open throttle during start... I have often seen people misread the checklist for 1/4" (inch) to mean 1/4 throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted November 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Corey, good video. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 I always do a cold start with throttle to closed stop and choke (enrichment) on full. Engine starts immediately, on first blade under normal conditions, 2-3 blades if it's really cold. For a warm/hot start, choke completely off and throttle open just a little (maybe 1/2" on my CT). Starts immediately, then adjust to proper warm up idle (2000-2200) with throttle. The only times I have not had this procedure work well is with a dead battery. I once tried a slightly warm start with throttle closed and choke on, engine would not catch until I took out the choke and cracked the throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted November 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 I finally got out to the hangar today. KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) told me to check out the simplest things first. Simplest to check was the carb vent tube. I think I found my problem but need to get a new tube installed and fly to verify. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. C-Icey and Tip were the clairvoyants who read the tea leaves correctly on this one! The cut in the tube was caused by the exposed edge of the fiberglass airbox - the rubber grommet was split and was not protecting the tube - and the split was right at the airbox opening and was exposed to ambient air outside of the airbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Tape it and do a ground run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tip Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 You found your problem, Dick. On the LS, the balance tube on the left carb is too short and comes off if bumped. The tube is held on with a zip tie. I was at Flight Design USA and they had a brand new plane in their hanger with the tube off. The hoses were cut too short, putting side load on them. I put a tiny spring clamp on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted November 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 Corey, the thought ran thru my mind. Since I need a new tube and the materials to make a new tube are on hand, I thought I would just go for it and hope it solves my problem in the process. Then again.....might consider your suggestion to get a fast look-see. . Tip, good info. You found a neat little clip that fastens the tube to the carb vent. Can these be found in one of my local ACE hardware store's part drawers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 I have seen a CTSW where the vent hose was split inside the airbox, instead of one piece running throughh it. It seemed t work OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 Corey, the thought ran thru my mind. Since I need a new tube and the materials to make a new tube are on hand, I thought I would just go for it and hope it solves my problem in the process. Then again.....might consider your suggestion to get a fast look-see. . Tip, good info. You found a neat little clip that fastens the tube to the carb vent. Can these be found in one of my local ACE hardware store's part drawers? What the video doesn't show is what the tube is for. It maintains appropriate air pressure on the fuel. If the pressure is too high, it's like having the float level too high, it dumps too much fuel into the airstream. Too low, and it runs lean. It's meant to maintain the same pressure on the fuel as the intake air. Fix the hose first, and do a ground run. You can find out if there is roughness pretty easily on the ground. If it's still there, you know to dig further. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tip Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 I bought the spring clip at an auto supply store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FastEddieB Posted November 22, 2014 Report Share Posted November 22, 2014 O'Reilly's sells a whole collection of spring clamps in a nice "tackle box" for just a few dollars. The other auto parts places probably have something similar. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MTM0/55173/N0189.oap?ck=Search_hose+clamp_-1_-1&keyword=hose+clamp Handy to have around. In a pinch a twist of safety wire can make an impromptu "clamp" to secure a small hose that's not under pressure. Of course, make sure a given clamp is appropriate to a given application. I remember a horrible accident caused by an owner using the wrong kind of clamp on an exhaust junction. Fuel and oil lines usually call for a specific kind of clamp. For this kind of low or no pressure application, it's really hard to see an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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