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SI-912-016-R8


Rich

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The SI says the previous Sport plus 4 can be used until expiration date.

 

I have a case of oil with an expiration date on the bottles marked "Oct 2014"

So, do I now throw away a case of oil to comply with the SI?

 

I don't know where it's possible to buy 3 Liters of plus 4 to be sure you're always in compliance with the SI. It'll take me two years to use a case of oil.

What can possible deteriorate inside the plastic bottle to make the oil non-usable according to the Rotax SI?

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Magnuson-Moss gives consumers certain important protections.

 

Neither Ford nor Yamaha nor ROTAX can make a warranty contingent on using their parts - unless those parts are provided for free.

 

They may want to to imply you have to use Ford or Yamaha or ROTAX parts, but they cannot force you to do so to keep your warranty intact.

 

Similarly, required maintenance does not need to be done at an "authorized dealer".

 

Warranty coverage can only be denied if they can show the part or service in question was the proximate cause of the warranty issue.

 

All stuff an informed consumer should be aware of.

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Some things take a long time to cause a problem and yes sometimes a problem never arises. Some times it happens right away and other times not for hundreds of hours. Then add the fact that many fliers only average about 40 hrs. a year and it may take many years to show up.

 

Not a huge difference in some oils. Most decent motorcycle oils are okay. YES there are a few that are stand outs for different reasons. No I won't post documentation. That's up to everyone to spend the time to reaserch on their own. I spent years and 3 research papers on this stuff.

 

As far as a Tempest oil filter verses a Rotax there are some real differences. First they cost only $1 difference so why would anyone pick a non recommended filter with mechanical differences.

Here are the differences;

First Rotax discovered that with a lower by pass pressure that was too low and on start up unfiltered oil went to the engine. The Tempest by pass is around 13-15 psi and the Rotax is 18-22 psi. Rotax used to be 14-16 psi.

Then many Experimental owners and some MFG's failed to follow Rotax's recommendation for oil tank mounting height and location, especially Kitfox. They mounted them too high which caused oil to flow down into the cylinders on occasions and when mounted too low siphoned the oil out of the tank. This is where the cylinder lock was happening. Now Rotax has a check valve inside that no other filter for this engine has. Then Rotax found that many oil filters had anti drain back membranes too stiff. So that was changed and softened to better stop oil drain back out of the filter.

Many years ago the differences were small, but not any more. I used to argue this subject to 10 years ago, but not any more.

 

 

So for $1 it seems it would be very unwise to use a filter that would be considered sub standard for this particular application.

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Fuel system debris issue?

I would personally call that the "Achilles Heel" of the carbureted ROTAX - really tiny pieces of crud finding their way to the float bowls can block jets and cause power interruption or failure.

 

Seems like fine screen filters right at the carb might help, like BMW airhead owners have installed for years after facing similar problems.

 

Anyway, it's been my first guess when a ROTAX owner has issues, and is most often correct.

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Hose debris can happen with either the carb engine or the fuel injected engine. Matter of fact too low a fuel pressure (not even fully blocked ) and the FI engine will shut down. On a CT you have a large particle screen in the fuel tanks, then the fuel filter in the instrument panel, then the very fine mesh in the gascolator, then the fine mesh screen I the fuel pump. The hose from the fuel distribution block on the balance tube is either stainless or Teflon. So the only real threat comes from the 14" piece off the bottom of the fuel pump which is the pressure out. If you use a good quality hose, be careful on the install using the proper cutter and proper hose, don't over tighten the clamps, use the proper clamps then chances become slim to none for most. There is always a possibility of a bad batch of hose from the Mfg. and if that happens either engine will have an issue. The FI engine has rubber hose too. If the carb engine gets an obstruction it usually only drops down to around 4K rpm, but if the FI engine gets restricted it shuts down. The FI engine needs around 43 psi to operate. If you have a Sport Cruiser they have all rubber hoses and no stainless, Teflon or fuel distribution block after the pump. The carb engine always has some warning and the FI engine won't. Using all Teflon fuel hose in a CT would cost around $600+.

A carb engine that only reduces down in rpm can be landed under power and in 30 min. have the bowls cleaned and back in the air. With the FI engine you aren't going anywhere.

 

p.s.

50+ hose changes and only had two in the early days with any debris. One from a bad batch of Hose and one from a serrated hose cutter. Never had one since.

That said debris could happen to anyone at any time. There is no 100% sure.

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According to the SI, Sport plus 4 with an expiration date of October 2014 cannot be used.

So, does the $100.00 case of oil I have need to be discarded? Why would it be a problem to use?

 

I couldn't use that much oil in two years. If that's the case, buying oil by the case doesn't make sense unless your a mechanic who has a repid turnover.

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According to the SI, Sport plus 4 with an expiration date of October 2014 cannot be used.

So, does the $100.00 case of oil I have need to be discarded? Why would it be a problem to use?

 

I couldn't use that much oil in two years. If that's the case, buying oil by the case doesn't make sense unless your a mechanic who has a repid turnover.

 

According to Shell any aviation oil past its expiration date should not be used, unless it is tested to make sure it meets standards. I think they are concerned with the additives breaking down over time. I'm certain the testing would cost more than just replacing the oil.

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We buy oil in 55 gal drums. It takes about six months to go through that much on average. I guess there is an MFG shelf life, but I have never gotten too worried about it. All of the training aircraft we maintain fly over 50 hrs a month, but for the rest of our customers, we recommend 6 mo or 50 hr intervals for oil changes 25 hr for non-filtered systems.

I bet one can find shelf life specs on any consumable item. Not something I would personally get too concerned about.

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I would like to know if anyone knows how to get a drum of Racing 4T. We go through a lot of oil and having a 35 gallon drum would be nice.

 

Have gotten the 4T for as low as $8.48 on sale at OReillys.  $9.98 not on sale at Walmart.  It was always a pain to get the Aeroshell oil, the Mobil 1 is everywhere.  And since I change every 50 instead of 25 hours, I am paying half as much for oil and filters and gas as the 100LL guys.

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Fascinating discussion about expiration dates on oil.

 

When I switched to Aeroshell Sport4 I had been using Pennzoil Motorcyle (dino) oil. I had a lot left, and just a couple weeks ago used some for an oil change on my Buell. Not my first choice in oils, but thought I'd use it up and just change it sooner than I would with synthetic.

 

In any case, I just looked and it does not appear any of the oils in my garage have obvious expiration dates. Some have stamped codes on them, but none that could be decoded easily.

 

Anyway, never thought to look for expiration codes on the Aeroshell Sport4 oil I've been working my way through for years. Will definitely do so next time I'm at the hangar. If it's expired, I may use it in a bike or yard tool rather than toss it. I sincerely doubt it degrades in any appreciable fashion, but I'm not a chemist and using fresher oil would probably be the Most Conservative Action.

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Something else to consider when using drums of oil. The additives will sometimes settle out. This was shown to me with a 5 gallon bucket of oil. I have even started shaking my bottles before dumping them.

 

On expiration dates I have different cases of oil in stock with expiration dates from 2016 to 2018. If someone is stopping through this part of the country I can make you a good deal on a case of Aeroshell sport 4 with an expiration of 2016.

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I just read the bottle.

Plus 4 has a born-on and an expiration date, two years apart, stamped on the bottle.

What seems strange is that It states a retest date four years from the born-on date.

It's almost like they're saying it's okay for up to four years.

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I stopped by the hangar today.

 

17202261646_9b46959af4_z.jpg

 

I had one quart of the old ebay oil left (on the left). No expiration date on it, but perhaps a manufacturing date in 2008 (!).

 

Along the way I must have picked up some newer - manufactured in 2011 and expired in 2013.

 

17228212645_624ac34fc4_z.jpg

 

In any case, has anyone found a source for the new formulation? I'll probably pick up a case of that for my next oil change while I figure out what to do with my "expired" oil! Probably would use it to "top off" a low oil level, but will probably refrain from using it for an oil change

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