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Cold start CT update problems


procharger

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Been having severe problems getting my bird to cold start, tried some suggestions from

Roger and played around with choke setting, nothing really made any difference until today,

I set the choke so it only closes half way when choke lever is all the way choked and barely

cracked throttle and it started first turn if key. First time this winter it started quickly. It always

acted like it was to much choke when I tried to start it. Anyway hope that fixes my problems

will try again Friday. I have a HKS engine with Bing 64 and it is set up to only close half way

when starting and it always starts quickly, so I figured I try it on CT and see what happens.

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Been having severe problems getting my bird to cold start, tried some suggestions from

Roger and played around with choke setting, nothing really made any difference until today,

I set the choke so it only closes half way when choke lever is all the way choked and barely

cracked throttle and it started first turn if key. First time this winter it started quickly. It always

acted like it was to much choke when I tried to start it. Anyway hope that fixes my problems

will try again Friday. I have a HKS engine with Bing 64 and it is set up to only close half way

when starting and it always starts quickly, so I figured I try it on CT and see what happens.

What kind of OAT are you talking about, and pre heat?

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isn't the Bing64 'choke' either on or off and not something you can do partial?

 

I know it isn't a choke but an enricher and when its selected the carb's idle ciruit loses contol and the enriched circuit takes over.  Can you be in the middle where the 2 circuits share mixture control?

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isn't the Bing64 'choke' either on or off and not something you can do partial?

 

I know it isn't a choke but an enricher and when its selected the carb's idle ciruit loses contol and the enriched circuit takes over.  Can you be in the middle where the 2 circuits share mixture control?

 

That was my experience from decades using BING carbs on BMW airheads.

 

The game plan there was always full "choke" and closed throttle, with any throttle defeating the starting circuit, at least partially.

 

But partial "choke" is possible - the enrichener has a tapering orifice. I have a picture somewhere*.

 

But back to real life - whatever works!

 

*Found online:

 

rightenrichener1.jpg

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Temps around here vary 20 to 40 this time of year I use light bulb which keeps under hood temps

around 50 to 55 really didn't make any difference what temp was still took 6 or 8 tries to start, again

my HKS engine has been this way for 8 years half choke and starts perfect who knows what might

work I have tried everything else except going through carbs which were done back in AUG. by

my AP. CT would not run when it was set to fully close just acted to rich when started, so i tried

something different, time will tell. Maybe float level has something to do with it I don't know??

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I have a great deal of trouble starting when it is below freezing. Below 20F, not possible without preheat.

 

Roger did mention to me that I should reduce the plug gaps to bare minimum to help.

 

I have heard (maybe from Roger) that starts below 30°F or so without some form of preheating are not good for the Rotax engines.  Not going to grenade the engine, but increases wear and tear a good bit.

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Wow that's a lot of work just to get  the dam engine to start, I may go electric :)

I said it before this engine has been out long enough, should not have all these

issues?? And I still have oil leak around push rod tubes between head and cyl

will address that next week.

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Too many hard cold starts will eventually cause you to replace the sprag clutch ion the starter assembly.

 

Ed will tell you not to go there. If you live in cold country then buying an engine pre-heater will be cheaper then replacing sprag clutches and batteries.

 

Pay now or pay a lot more later.

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I put a small dab of paint at "2/3" choke setting @ my choke lever.  Light bulb + good battery + 2/3 choke starts my engine consistently @ 30 F and above.  For less than 30 F, full choke is used. Solid starts with no kick backs.  I have always thought my engine was over choked and acted like it was getting too much fuel.  Appears Procharger might be in the same boat.  Based on Jacques link which describes larger "start" jets, I might have a larger starter jet than stock?

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Tanis is the gold standard for engine heaters and the specific model for Rotax was designed just for the Rotax engine. It does a really good job of warming the entire engine block through out.

Reiff works, but was set up for a wet sump engine and just used on a Rotax. 

 

Either one is far and ahead of nothing.

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