Tom Baker Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Depending on the vintage of your engine there is some good info in this document. http://legacy.rotaxowner.com/si_tb_info/serviceinfo/si-912i-006r1.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZZ Top Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 Thank you both for your suggestions. Engine is in a 2006 CTSW, 912ULS Answers from to reliable people. The leak started about forty hours ago with a very small amount of oil and was difficult to locate the source. Several owners on this site said to live with it. The leak has become much worse and is now something that needs to be addressed. Wanted to tighten the head volts to see if this is all that is needed before any seals are replaced. Right or wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anticept Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 That depends on where it is. Checking for bolt torque won't hurt but you must closely follow the pattern in the manual. Can you provide photos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 10, 2016 Report Share Posted October 10, 2016 You need to determine if it is from the head or the pushrods tube under the head. Two different issues. Plus this oil can come from someplace more forward and the air flowing through push s it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Koerner Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 ...or a cracked case. He said it's a 2006. I think there was an issue with some of the older engines. Mike Koerner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZZ Top Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Have read about the cracked case issue. What would I look for? This engine does run hot. On warms days in climb, oil temp wants to bump red line and would go there if I continue climb at Vy, always level out and let engine cool down, which does not take to long. Oil leak seems to be coming out at the top where cylinder is bolted to engine. Would have a certified mechanic look at it, but do not have any in the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZZ Top Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 Roger, I have flushed the engine clean on seven different occasions. Would fly and check again, you are correct with your statement. The last time cleaned cleaned engine again and would run the engine, after the engine was warm, for one minute at 2000 RPM! Shut off and checked for leak. On third attempt found where leak is originating. Engine has just turned 600 hours Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 If you're sure it is the top part of the head seal then loosen each of the 4 nuts one at a time and retorque on a cold engine. p.s. Most cracked cases happened from mid 2006 and earlier. They were caused from having too much prop pitch and over stressing the engine. The crack happens on top of the engine up by the case seam and usually about 2.5" long and just right of the seam. It would ooze oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 If it is coming from under the head, you will likely need to install the special seals like in the service instructions I linked to. The oil originates in the crankcase and moves past the threads of the stud, through the tube in the cylinder for the stud, and then leaks from the area where the cylinder head meets the cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 11, 2016 Report Share Posted October 11, 2016 You can also just seal the studs with some Loctite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 You can also just seal the studs with some Loctite. Roger, If Loctite is OK for this application, then why did Rotax go to all the trouble to make a special seal instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Hi Tom, The seal is fine and the Loctite also works as we discussed in class, but I would personally do both. If you get into it this far you might as well make sure you never have to go back again. 598 can be applied to threads as well as the nut sealing surfaces if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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