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bad carb heat design


johnr

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Roger,

 

I was interested in the icon-oil-source link that you posted on page one of this thread.

Do you, or anyone else, know if the Shell sport+4 has a baseline of silica? If so what is it?

I usually run near the average of silica from Av Lab analysis but my last analysis was just a little on the high side. No remedies were suggested in the remarks box.

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I think many take the oil analysis to literal and then worry. It is a good guide that compares your specific engine against others with the same approximate hours of use. The samples will always vary from sample to sample. If one element is a little high during one test it shouldn't be cause for a major concern. If a sample is off the charts and one of the items tested is cause for concern about items like bearings and parts failures then that would be a different story. Usually if you have a really high reading of concern you may want to take another sample in 10 hours or so. Some samples with odd readings are nothing more than cross contamination and many times high readings go back into the normal range.

 

I have seen where people had fuel in the oil sample and was ready to tear an engine down or replace all the rings.

All it was was diesel fuel that had gotten into their fuel and then migrated into the oil. Even their oil level went up.

 

Sport Plus 4 formula is consider a secret with Shell. I tried a few years ago. Is there any silicate? I don't know, but my guess is no.

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I've never used carb heat on my CTSW.  I've never really heard or felt any difference when I pulled the knob.  I even landed in Wisconsin when it was 39 degrees out and sleeting with no problems (except seeing outside).  I think some of it has to do with descent rate and low manifold pressure.

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The first indications of carb ice is usually a drop in manifold pressure then followed by engine harshness, not really rough running but not smooth, probably caused by an over rich mixture . If you don't do something about it fairly quickly the engine will schedule it's own solution which may not suit your version of powered flight .

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I have had carb ice quite a few times and it comes on quickly . The air temp can be higher than you think and it still can happen if the humidity is high enough. As far as unfiltered air goes , I have never seen filtered air for carb heat . I have seen water heat used but it rarely works , you need the blast of hot air to clear to clear the ice quickly . I understand that it is a legal design requirement for certified aircraft to have a temperature rise in intake air of about 50 deg, c.

If you fly through mist then smoke eg after a forest fire the smoke particles will block your filter real quick then tour only get out jail card is carb heat - alternate air.

 

 

I had it once and I second how quickly it happens... almost like someone flipping a switch.

 

Usually real dry here, but that day it was pretty cool/cold outside and real humid.

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here is my take away after a cold wet winter here in France: flying on high icing conditions 3°C & dew point at 3°C. I have several time experienced hicing on my CTSW 2007. as pre-warning, the engine is running little bit rough, then, after few minutes, sudden drop of RPM + high vibration during approximately 1 Sec, then back to normal, and 912s running smoothly. My understanding is that ice is slowly built in  the 2 carbs, and then suddenly "eated" by only one of the 2 carbs, generating strong un balance running. When this happened, I was close to my airfield and decided to investigate more. flying again with no carb eating during 20 minutes, and then pull in the carb heat. once I was able to reproduce the rpm drop just few seconds after applying carb heating. my concern  was on an other day, having carb heating on the whole flight, but after 1 hour, got the 1 sec vibration and rpm drop. may be carb heating has some limit has well. On sand injection, I have recognised that the air filter box ad several holes by-passing the air filter! most probably designed to get strap to fix the air filter. I have removed one of the remaining strap, and sealed all holes with tapes (on top side only since I wanted to avoid any risk to have the tape swallowed by the carbs!

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 on an other day, having carb heating on the whole flight, but after 1 hour, got the 1 sec vibration and rpm drop. may be carb heating has some limit has well.

 

That's probably why they upgraded the carb heat system on the CTLS.  

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I imported my CTsw from the US. When I registered it in Australia I contacted Flight Design to inform them that I was the new owner

& could they send me any SBs . This is a requirement by the Australian Aviation Authorities. I never received a reply  even after

repeated requests. I have tried the "please sir can you" approach so I felt justified to try a hammer!. It made no difference I was

still ignored.

 

 

 

Here you go: http://flightdesign.com/wordpress/?page_id=117

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I suggest that you do not use carb heat this way . if you leave it on , the whole heat system will become cool and therefor will not have the "blast of heat" that is needed to clear carb ice . It sounds like you may be getting some intake icing which is slower and not as dangerous . Also carb ice is rear when the air is very cold eg. below about 2 deg. c . 

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I'm with CT9000. I wouldn't leave carb heat on all the time. The chances that youi will get carb ice is reasonably rare. Fliers in the UK are more likely due to their moisture in the air and their regular OAT's that accompany that moisture.

 

The engine isn't designed for continuous carb heat and if it was a good idea Rotax would have it a permanent solution you would never have to touch. An engine runs better on cold dry air. Not hot and or humid air.

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A thought...it very hot weather in a hard climb, could you use the carb heat to clear warm air from under the cowl and keep temps down?  you'd lose a little power, but would you gain a bit of extra cooling?

 

I'm always looking for an edge in hot & humid Georgia!   :D

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A thought...it very hot weather in a hard climb, could you use the carb heat to clear warm air from under the cowl and keep temps down?  you'd lose a little power, but would you gain a bit of extra cooling?

 

I'm always looking for an edge in hot & humid Georgia!   :D

 

Don't do it you run the risk of detonation , it is hard on your engine to breath hot air . The heat reduction inside the cowl would be too small to measure . Due to less power you have less ram air cooling . Overall a big loss .

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I'm being facetious :)

 

Never know around here!   :)

 

As to using carb heat and causing detonation, if that was a concern, wouldn't the RV-12 and other planes sucking under cowl air all the time have that problem?  The power loss might be noticeable, but I really don't think detonation is a problem.

 

But I don't know if sucking hot cowl air into your hot engine would buy you anything.  Probably a "net zero" type of situation. 

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Well, all we have with the CTs is an improper warm air system!   :)

 

You are almost starting to sound like someone else who thinks all CT's are the same, and have a fuel injected engine and 10" Skyviews.  :P

 

To be fair we all make assumptions about what we are familiar with, and you are only familiar with how the CTSW is done.

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You are almost starting to sound like someone else who thinks all CT's are the same, and have a fuel injected engine and 10" Skyviews.  :P

 

To be fair we all make assumptions about what we are familiar with, and you are only familiar with how the CTSW is done.

 

True, I don't know as much about those later, overweight CTs with all their fancy gadgets!    :laughter-3293:

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True, I don't know as much about those later, overweight CTs with all their fancy gadgets! :laughter-3293:

My CTLS is not much fancier than your SW. I have a D120 that you don't have. I do agree that the new airplanes are to heavy. That being said, having flown and owned both, I don't think I would take the step backwards to a CTSW.

 

Besides I have carb heat thar actually works.

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