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Oil change small drama!


Buckaroo

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A couple of answers.

 

John Vance,

The manual and SB's and the such don't cover all ways of doing things and in some of their writings they figure you will do it all or only one way. The manual and bulletins are translated and written in a way so even the least educated may hopefully not make a mistake. 

So when they talk about removing and cleaning the tank they write it as if you did lose oil out of the hoses and advise you purge for CYA.

 

The bottom line is whether you remove the top and clean which you still need to remove it at the fittings or pull the whole tank so long as you do not lose any oil out of those two hoses you only need to vent it. The reason is because you have lost no more oil than a standard oil change with the fittings on.

 

Buckaroo,

 

Just use a 12mm wrench and loosen the nuts on the front two exhaust pipes. Top and bottom. Get on the right side of the muffler down low and use your foot to push the muffler over an inch or so and see if that gives you clearance. If you get clearance make sure that none of the exhaust pipes no rub or rest on any hosesd. If you are clear tighten the 4 nuts. 

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A couple of answers.

 

John Vance,

The manual and SB's and the such don't cover all ways of doing things and in some of their writings they figure you will do it all or only one way. The manual and bulletins are translated and written in a way so even the least educated may hopefully not make a mistake.

So when they talk about removing and cleaning the tank they write it as if you did lose oil out of the hoses and advise you purge for CYA.

 

The bottom line is whether you remove the top and clean which you still need to remove it at the fittings or pull the whole tank so long as you do not lose any oil out of those two hoses you only need to vent it. The reason is because you have lost no more oil than a standard oil change with the fittings on.

 

Buckaroo,

 

Just use an12mm wrench and loosen the nuts on the front two exhaust pipes. Top and bottom. Get on the right side of the muffler down low and use your foot to push the muffler over an inch or so and see if that gives you clearance. If you get clearance make sure that none of the exhaust pipes no rub or rest on any hosesd. If you are clear tighten the 4 nuts.

Roger this seems to be the missing link I couldn't even imagined in my wildest hallucinations! Logically thinking why would these procedures be different with the same engines? Of course the exhaust system can be tightened and therefore aligned differently from motor to motor! Both left and right pipes need to be set and tightened so to allow the oil filter to be removed!

 

Thanks Roger for the tip! Ownership will be easier!

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Andy, the answer to your question is that the loads on the main bearings differ when turing the crankshaft by hand versus turning with engine power.  

 

When the engine is being turned by hand, the force on the big end of the connecting rod (pushing the piston up) is simply that needed to compress air in the combustion chamber to some 11:1 ratio (or whatever the compression ratio is).

 

When the engine is running, however, the heat of combustion produces pressures in the chamber that are tremendously higher and put a proportionately greater load on the bearing.

 

So, what is better, a low load on a bearing without oil pressure or a high load on a bearing without oil pressure?  That is why turning the engine by hand to fill the filter and reduce time to full oil pressure pressure when the engine starts is desirable.  This is also why builders of high performance auto engines actually pre-pressurize their oil galleries before starting the engine.  

 

Fred

 

Edit:  What John Vance said in post #24.  Except he said it with fewer words!

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Roger this seems to be the missing link I couldn't even imagined in my wildest hallucinations! Logically thinking why would these procedures be different with the same engines? Of course the exhaust system can be tightened and therefore aligned differently from motor to motor! Both left and right pipes need to be set and tightened so to allow the oil filter to be removed!

Thanks Roger for the tip! Ownership will be easier!

I have yet to see a CT that needed the exhaust shifted to get the filter off. My guess is that you can shift it out of the way and tighten it down and be good from now on. I have had a Tecnam that the exhaust has to be moved every time.

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Buckaroo,

 

Was there any difference in length between the non-genuine filter you changed (the one in your engine pics thread) & a genuine Rotax oil filter?

The old Tempest had those safety wire eyelets in a circle on the top. Otherwise they were the same size.

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