FlyingMonkey

Need Matco Part Number

24 posts in this topic

The recent thread on locked brakes reminded me I need to get some spare pads to keep on hand.  I can't find the Matco part number for the CTSW reline kit, does anybody have that handy (or memorized, Roger ;) )?

 

 

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3 hours ago, FlyingMonkey said:

. . . "The recent thread on locked brakes reminded me I need to get some spare pads to keep on hand.  I can't find the Matco part number for the CTSW reline kit, does anybody have that handy . . . "?

Are you inquiring about the Matco Swiftline product?

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The kit that includes the pads and rivets.  I think the Swiftline is the one where you sent then the shoes and they do the work for you.  I can put the pads on.

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2 hours ago, aldowns said:

WHLBRL-1 complete set

I thought that was it, thanks for confirming!

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Matco Part Number WHLBRL-1

Rapco part number RA066-10600

Aircraft spruce part number for rapco, 06-16956

New Cleveland brake part number 066-10600

Old Cleveland brake part number 66-2

These are all to the same specifications and can be interchanged with no issue.

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Hi Anticept... I have been getting the odd occasion of shimmy with the brakes applied near the end of the landing roll. I have checked the thickness' and my discs are at 4.14 to 4.36 and the pads 2.64 to 2.69 mm. They are the marc-ingegno type and I think my right main may be the problem. The pad is not nicely aligned or maybe it was the angle of the camera when the picture was taken. I have read some of the posts on the forum and when it is referring to 'pad glued on' is it the opposite side from the piston? I believe that the inside pad is held on by the 2 or 3 bolts?..... I see from the picture too that there is uneven wear on the pad, probably from that spring?... thanks for your input on 'radio static'

Right main brake from top.jpg

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The shimmy is likely caused by the disk sticking on the pins. They need to be removed cleaned an lubricated periodically. As for the pads being crooked there are springs inboard from the piston that push the pads apart. The full length springs can be problematic, I normally shorten them.

One other possible issue is a out of balance tire. I have also had a couple failures of the Aero Classic 4.00x6 6 ply tires that would cause a shake.

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That uneven wear is from the spring and some binding. If you can afford Matco's you'd be better off. You can try and disassemble the pads and clean the area they need to move in and on and see if that will help.

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The shinmy can be a variety of issues. The first thing I would look at are the rotor screws. If they have a worn divot in the shank, that will definately cause shake.

An out of balance tire will shake regardless of brake application.

Finally, there is another issue that people aren't very well aware of, and this occurs with all rotors on all brake systems. I don't know what to call it. What happens is if you brake hard, you build up a lot of heat. Then when you come to a stop, if you hold the brake for too long, the brakes will cool and some of the pad will stick to the rotor surface from adhesion. You can usually faintly see edge lines. This spot causes high friction every time it passes the liners during brake application.

It causes no harm, but is annoying. If you want it gone, you have to burn it off with agressive braking, then avoid locking the brakes during the cooldown (or you'll just make another spot). It takes finesse, because you don't need to be burning up the brakes while you do this. Just start with moderate braking, and get harder and harder until it stops, but don't destroy the rotor in the process!

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thanks Tom and Roger... am I correct in assuming that by taking out 2or3 bolts the pad closest to the piston will drop out? The spring would fall too but I would not re-install it as some other forum postings suggest. I will take out the pins and clean, do they need to be torqued to a certain value when put back in... 15nm?... Yes Roger, I would like to go with the Matco when the pads get a little more worn, would that mean I have to replace the master cylinder in the console with Matco too?

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There are just screws that hold the pads in position. 

I am not going to quote torque from memory, but I would expect it to be about 90 in/lbs.

You don't have to switch out the master cylinder, but the Matco puts ouy more force than the Marc Inegro.

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If none of the other suggestions solves this, you can pull the disc off and lay it on a flat pane of glass on a table.  Run a feeler gauge around the outside of it and that should show you pretty quickly if it's warped at all.

If it is a warped disc, I agree with Roger that it's time for Matcos.  You can probably finance half the cost of a Matco conversion for the cost of one Marc disc.  I know from experience the Marc master cylinder costs 3x what the Matco does, just as one example. 

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I have talked to Matco and I may have a complication with my Tundra tires, there is something with the mounting they are unsure about, plus I have the larger wheel pants for the tundra's

Right main brake inside.jpg

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There is no complication. Just a misunderstanding. I have installed around 50 Matco brake sets on CT's. yours is just an LS and bolts right on. Easier than an SW.. if you need info just call me.

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I put Matco on my 2007 with Tundra years ago. No complication, never regretted it.

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53 minutes ago, sandpiper said:

I put Matco on my 2007 with Tundra years ago. No complication, never regretted it.

Concur totally.

Right after purchase, first thing I did to my 2006 CTSW was install Matco wheels and brakes. They are excellent.

There is a fleetwide LOA available. Matco support is very good and installing new brake pads is a no-brainer (owner preventative maintanence) and very affordable.

There is nothing not to like about Matco's.

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thank you everyone for the guidance... a few of my disc pins were making travel difficult so with cleaning and grease it is much better. Plan to convert to Matco in near future.

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Your conversation to matco would require you to do some cutting. You have the older style gear leg without the clearance for the caliper. Not hard to fix.

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thanks Anticept, I hear it is about a 45 degree cut on the back side, in an inch or so from corner

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I just trimmed my gear legs a little bit at a time until the brake caliper slid on without issue. Had to take a little off the bottom near the pin, and the 45 degree cut.

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Anticept... the factory may have already done this planning to put on Matco but found some marc-engegno on the shelf...the aircraft was built Oct 2010...just noticed this from earlier pictures

 

 

Left gear leg.jpg

Right gear leg.jpg

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They should take the matcos easily. There might still be a little trimming required, but most of it is already done for you.

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