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Ignition Switch / Source


John Vance

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I suspect my ignition switch may be faulty, and am planning to replace it before the next flight. The aircraft is a 2010 CTLS with soft start, and the FD maintenance manual shows it as part number C9997199.  Does anyone know the source of this part?  It looks like there could be a delay in getting one from FD. 

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The ignition switches, by the way, are not any different between the old and the new ignition module types ("soft start"), and I think are also the same with earlier models. No idea how different they are between the LS and the LSi's though.

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11 hours ago, Anticept said:

The ignition switches, by the way, are not any different between the old and the new ignition module types ("soft start"), and I think are also the same with earlier models. No idea how different they are between the LS and the LSi's though.

Yeah, I figured that out. I though there might be an extra terminal for soft start, but not so.  

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Speaking of a suspected faulty ignition switch;   Mine has been acting up.   Hope I can describe it;  when I turn the key to the start (ignition) part I just get a click.   I roll back to off and try again and same thing,  just a click.   Doing this over and over I do get lucky and get the ignition to start the engine.   CTSW 2006.    I guess I will replace the ignition switch as I don't think I can trouble shoot this one correct?  (meaning I can't fix the switch right ?).  Where do I order this ?    Thanks 

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The original switch installation in my airplane had bare wire ends going into the switch terminals. Tightening the screws just compressed the stranded wires to hold them in place. This doesn't provide a very solid connection, and wiggling the wires could loosen them. My mechanic added fork connectors.  Much better. 

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Ok I checked, cleaned and tightened all screws nuts and bolts on ignition switch and on starter solenoid  - still 50/50 on the start however I mistakenly said the click  sound was from switch - upon futher checking it is the solenoid that makes that click sound.  So am thinking replace the solenoid ? 

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If you hear the click, then that's expected. Before you go replacing the solenoid, make sure the engine ground did not break. I had an issue on one aircraft where the engine ground wire was too short, and fatigue broke the ring terminal. Because it rested on the metal frame, low amounts of current would work fine, but high current could not pass without dropping too much voltage and starving the starter (BAD CONDITION. IT WILL BURN UP THE STARTER). The starter uses 150-160 amps.

You also need a good battery too. If your battery is less than optimal, it won't provide the cranking power needed to turn the starter, and again, burn up the starter quickly.

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I went ahead and bought the solenoid (OUCH) as i don't want to get stranded at another airport.   Thanks for all the suggestions on what to look for.    All checked including making sure good battery / ground wire etc and found nothing, so i am leaning towards the bad solenoid.    

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How did you test the battery? Keep in mind, a bad battery can still have a good charge, but as soon as you load it up, the internal resistance drops a lot of voltage, which means not a lot of current can flow to drive the starter.

I intend to post at a later date a way to DIY load test your batteries, and how to to a capacity test.

Load test checks your cold cranking amps (CCA) and is a good quick and dirty battery check. A battery can deliver the CCA initially, but still be at end of life.

Capacity test is intensive, and does the most thorough verification of battery condition. For lead acid chemistry, it is done via a timed load, then comparing the voltage reading against a chart to determine its current charge, which is then compared against a bit of math that you do to determine how many amp hours you actually used up and what the charge SHOULD be. A battery with a low capacity cannot keep its voltage up for long to drive a starter or your airplane power system.

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Oh i don't have the expertise on this.   I am just assuming the battery is ok based on the age (1yr) and the fact that i charged it.  Not sure about other tests but will gladly read up on any suggested methods of checking battery capacity.  

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Is it possible the solenoid is 'in the process' of failing.   Sometimes the engine starts and sometimes it is just the click - no start.     Thus, if i bridge the terminals i might not get the start indicating solenoid is fine,  but after repeated attempts i might actually get a start.   Is that possible?    

On a related topic, I had my master switch fail on me but it wasnt the one time only.   If i turned the switch off and then back on again i would get power.    This happened multiple times until the switch finally failed completely.   Not sure if this might be the same case with the solenoid.     

I have the solenoid on order so i guess that would be my best confirmation when i replace it. 

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By bridging the solenoid, you will take the solenoid out of the equation and will be sending battery voltage directly to the starter.  Because this is high amperage, there very well could be arcing and sparks when you bridge the solenoid posts with the screw driver, especially if the starter is locked up.  Also, beware of the prop because this will be turning when you make contact with the screw driver.

 

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