Magnetic oil plug

[Roger Lee]

Just an FYI,

 

Make sure when you change your oil you always check your magnetic oil plug. It is a requirement. I have ask a few lately that have been changing their oil about their magnetic oil plug and they looked at me and ask what's that.

[Runtoeat]

Hi Roger. Good point about the plug check. Checking is fairly simple - just need to put new new safety wire afterwards. Doing this at the oil change allows one to clean the plug off and start over with accumulations. If not done each oil change, one might find excessive "gunk" on the plug which may be nothing more than a few years buildup but the amount found on the plug might be sufficient to cause a "fail" for inspection with possible engine tear-down required. What amount of "gunk" do you usually find on plugs you inspect? None to one millimeter or so?

 

 

[BMcCand - N248CT]

I had trouble removing the original mag plug until I bought a good Snap On torx tool. Even then it was difficult, so I bought the new kind

of plug 241-785 with external hex drive. It is much more robust. I also got a hole drilled in the crank lock cover screw so the safety

wiring is more robust. There is an SB or SI about this somewhere... sorry forget the number.

[Steve Schroeder]

How difficult is it usually to get the magnetic plug out? I watched a video on the Rotax owner website that implies it might be very difficult to remove with a possibility of it getting stuck and possibly stripping out when you try to remove it. The video shows a procedure using freeze spray and an easy out tool for when the plug strips out....scary!! Also, the manual says you should check the plug every 50 hours..what if you change the oil at 25 hours...do you still have to check the plug every time? Thanks.

[Roger Lee]

Hi Steve,

 

It is required to check the mag plug at every oil change and in the oil change documentation make a note as to it cleanliness. It is not hard and actually quite easy to remove. If you have the old style plug (#40 Torx head) then a tad more care is to be taken. You will need a 3/8" drive socket wrench, 12" extension and a #40 Torx drive tip (looks like a star and can be purchased almost anywhere. Put it in under the left side exhaust tube up by the head and into the mag plug. Smack the end of the socket wrench with your hand to make sure the Torx bit is seated all the way into the mag plug. Some people only get it in half way and that's what strips them out. If it has been out before it will most likely turn right out with a little pressure. If this is the first time out then have someone apply some pressure on the wrench while you take a metal rod of some type and place it on the edge of the mag plug and the rap it smartly once or twice and it will come right out without any fuss. If you have a newer engine then you have a hex nut style and all you need is a socket on end of the socket wrench extension and turn it out. Make sure which ever one you have to safety wire it after you put it back in place.

 

 

p.s.

If any one does strip out the Torx style mag plug don't fret. Use a pair of small vise grip pliers and clamp the edge. Then just break it loose and it will just screw out with your fingers once it is loose.

[Steve Schroeder]

Thanks Roger,

 

I plan to change my oil later this week....the mag plug thing was causing me anxiety LOL...I feel better now.

 

Steve

[sandpiper]

There is no need to drill any holes to safety the mag plug. Simply put a double loop of safety wire around the bolt head where the crankcase locking pin goes then run it to the mag plug. At my Rotax renewal last month I ran this method past Eric Tucker of Rotax, our instructor. He had no problem with doing it this way. It was even suggested that a double loop might be overkill.

[FastEddieB]

Here's mine:

 

[2FlyAgain]

I know that the safety wire for the mag plug should be stainless steel 302/304.  But...what size safety wire fits the holes in the mag plug?  Is it 0.032 in or 0.020 inch?

 

Thanks in advance...!

[Doug G.]

I use .032 on most things. Occasionally .040. I think there is one place where it is called for, I am fairly sure it is on the exhaust springs. I don't use the .020 probably because when I took the repairman class it wasn't mentioned.

[Roger Lee]

32 safety wire is fine.

[FlyingMonkey]

Safety wiring that mag plug the right way is a real art form.  I'm getting better at it, this last oil change it only took two tries.

[FastEddieB]

I'm getting better at it, this last oil change it only took two tries.

Realistically, that's about my average.

[FlyingMonkey]

When I had my exhaust break in Tucson, we had to re-wire all the exhaust springs.  I did one side and Roger the other.  He decided to make it a race.  It was humiliating, he finished his side before I was done with one spring.  His were prettier too.  

[Runtoeat]

How about a picture of a properly safety wired mag plug?

[FlyingMonkey]

Here's the plug.  The wire goes around the bottom side of the plug, which is the hardest place to get the tension right.  Too tight and the wire breaks, too loose and the wire pops around the plug and is not secured.  I use two loops around the gearbox bolt head.  I should have put a little "J" in the twisted wire at the end, but it's out of the way and unlikely to cut my hand.

 

[Tom Baker]

I have went to the screw Andy is showing and also the lock pin screw. Both work fine. I do the final twist on the magnetic plug rather than the screw like Andy did. I start my wire by doing a double wrap around a deep well socket and twisting a few inches. Then I go to the airplane to finish. Having the preformed loop makes it easier for me, but your mileage may vary.

[FlyingMonkey]

Which is the lock pin screw, the one directly above the plug?

[Doug G.]

I have went to the screw Andy is showing and also the lock pin screw. Both work fine. I do the final twist on the magnetic plug rather than the screw like Andy did. I start my wire by doing a double wrap around a deep well socket and twisting a few inches. Then I go to the airplane to finish. Having the preformed loop makes it easier for me, but your mileage may vary.

I end at the mag plug also. Probably because that was the way it was when I bought the plane.

[FlyingMonkey]

I end at the mag plug also. Probably because that was the way it was when I bought the plane.

 

Mine was the way shown in my picture when I got it, which is why I do it that way.  

[Tom Baker]

Which is the lock pin screw, the one directly above the plug?

 

In your picture you can just see part of it in the upper right corner.

[Doug G.]

The issue I see with that is you would have to redo it if you ever needed to use the lock pin separate from the mag plug. I do my own annuals and I prefer to be able to have the oil change routine separate from the gear box fiction test.

[Tom Baker]

The issue I see with that is you would have to redo it if you ever needed to use the lock pin separate from the mag plug. I do my own annuals and I prefer to be able to have the oil change routine separate from the gear box fiction test.

I've never found it to be an issue.

[Runtoeat]

FWIW, I do my wire like shown in Andy's pic.  This wire also allows me to anchor the electrical wires which run to the headlight and the oil pressure sender  I put a wrap of plastic wire protector around both of these wires then tie wrap them to the safety wire.  Keeps them from vibrating and stressing the connection at the light and the sender.

[Doug G.]

FWIW, I do my wire like shown in Andy's pic. This wire also allows me to anchor the electrical wires which run to the headlight and the oil pressure sender I put a wrap of plastic wire protector around both of these wires then tie wrap them to the safety wire. Keeps them from vibrating and stressing the connection at the light and the sender.

Good suggestion, thanks.

The whole thing is not ideal. It would be nice to have a different wire point for the mag plug, or safety holes in one of the two bolts.