PDG Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Actually two unrelated questions. 1. What is the major reason for the tape between the stabilator and the trim tab? (cosmetic/aerodynamic?) 2. Was checking to make sure the choke was all to way OFF when I noticed the RPM increase (~100/125 rpm)and the fuel flow decrease (~.1 gph). Normal or a sign the choke linkage needs adjusted? Thanks! Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted March 19, 2011 Report Share Posted March 19, 2011 Howdy Paul, The tape is on there for both reasons. It hides the gap and dresses up the top and bottom, but it closes up the gap against the high pressure airflow. Some refer to this as gap sealing. They do it on many planes and is quite common. The way to check your choke is always make sure it is pushed all the way forward in the off position. Then look under the cowl at the choke linkage cable. The choke lever should be all the way in the off position and the cable should not be tight, but have ever so slight play. Then you can check for full open. Pull the choke lever back all the way and look at the choke linkage again and see if they are all the way open. When starting up in the morning and turning off the choke after the start just make sure the choke lever is fully closed forward. Once above 3500 rpm in flight or sitting on the ground the choke plays no function and will not affect anything. Next time you are flying and at cruise pull the choke lever all the way back and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
207WF Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 On the tape: The first three times, including from the factory, that gap was sealed by a piece of tape touching both the stab and the trim tab. Over time with motion, it always broke the tape. I came up with a better taping scheme. I double sided a piece of tape, putting the two sticky sides together, to make a strip of the right length. Then, I positioned it over the gap between the stab and the trim tab and attached it to the stabilator with another piece of tape, overlapping the new piece at about 50% of the width of the double-sided piece. Now, I have a free floating gap seal. I can lift it up to inspect and lubricate the hinges, and it has lasted longer than any of the original tape schemes. WF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 The 1" white Bolus tape works well. I put it on all the planes here and it usually will last more than a year and never spit or come off. When you lay Bolus tape down do not stretch it. just lay it down and press it in place. When you use it on the stab/trim tab push the stab all the way down then apply the tape. Then on the bottom push the stab all the way up and apply the tape. This way when you operate the stab it will not stretch the tape and it won't split. It stays there until I have to pull it off for an inspection. Use this tape on all you gap seal jobs. If you use it right and don't stretch it it will last until your ready to remove it. Well past a year. http://www.cumulus-soaring.com/bowlus.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennM Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 Flight Design put a little strip of plastic held on with the white tape on my stabilator gap. This is not connected at one end, and is similar to the free-floating design mentioned above. It seems to work much longer than the original tape. It does fail and need to be replaced, but not as often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Glenn, I got the piece of tape from FD that you describe when I had my stabilator reinforced. Believe that it is a piece of white mylar tape that's about 3/4" wide that has a narrow piece of tape, similar to bolus tape, attached along it's lenght to hold it on. This does seem to work well since it slides on the trim tab when the tab is functioned rather than being stretched. 207WF has a good method to approximate this by doubling the bolus tape. There is no problem using the bolus tape if one applies it as Roger Lee describes. First I go full nose down trim which drops the trim tab, and then I install 1" bolus tape. This allows the tape to relax as the tab is brought up into neutral or full up position and does not stretch the tape for any position the tab might be put in. In my situation, I had to use oversize pop rivets to re-install the tab hinges. I cannot adequately cover the gap between the trim tab and the stabilator and still cover these rivets with the 1" bolus tape and I might go to 1 1/2" of 2" bolus next time I redo this. The bolus seems to be very tough and long lasting and it never seems to yellow. Good stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennM Posted March 27, 2011 Report Share Posted March 27, 2011 Maybe I will ask for the Bolus tape installation without the Mylar, like Roger mentions. My first failure of the mylar strip method had the tape fail in the middle of the stabilator with is still attached on the ends. This allowed the mylar to twist 90° into the gap between the stabilator and trim tab. This disrupted the airflow and caused a sudden pitch up, that could not be trimmed away. I had to keep pushing forward on the stick to stay level. I made a landing at a nearby airport to determine the source of the pitch change. Seeing the twisted mylar, I removed the rest of the damaged gap tape. The flight home was fine. Just recently, the tape split along a line over the mylar strip. This had a similar, but not as pronounced effect. I could tell something felt funny on landing, then I found the tape split on inspection. Either way, the tape almost lasted a year, which is much longer than it ever had lasted before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
207WF Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 I had the mylar strip on the bottom and my taping scheme on the top until a recent trip, where the mylar went missing. They seemed to have it secured along the leading edge with something like rubber cement. I replaced it with my scheme on the bottom, as described above, and now all is well. It looks cleaner, too. WF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floats Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 My tape is gone but all the glue is still there. Same for the tape below the fin. What product can be used to remove the glue without damaging the fibreglass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floats Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 What about this warning on the bowlus tape web site Important Safety Note: "Gap Seal Tape" is Not Designed for Use on Control Surfaces This stretchy plastic tape is perfect for use sealing fixed gaps - such as the gap between the wing and fuselage. I do not recommend using it on control surfaces such as the gap between the wing and aileron or the fin and rudder, or the horizontal stabilizer and elevator. Plastic tape will shrink over time and especially when it gets hot in the sun. If it is connected to a control surface it may contract over time and not allow full travel of the control surface. Or as it gets tight it may pull off as it is stretched by the control surface - which could lead to high drag or reduced control of the aircraft as the tape flaps in the wind or changes the airflow over the control surface. Using plastic tape secured on both sides of a control surface gap is unsafe and may be an illegal modification to the aircraft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 My tape is gone but all the glue is still there. Same for the tape below the fin. What product can be used to remove the glue without damaging the fibreglass Denatured Alcohol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 What about this warning on the bowlus tape web site Important Safety Note: "Gap Seal Tape" is Not Designed for Use on Control Surfaces This stretchy plastic tape is perfect for use sealing fixed gaps - such as the gap between the wing and fuselage. I do not recommend using it on control surfaces such as the gap between the wing and aileron or the fin and rudder, or the horizontal stabilizer and elevator. Plastic tape will shrink over time and especially when it gets hot in the sun. If it is connected to a control surface it may contract over time and not allow full travel of the control surface. Or as it gets tight it may pull off as it is stretched by the control surface - which could lead to high drag or reduced control of the aircraft as the tape flaps in the wind or changes the airflow over the control surface. Using plastic tape secured on both sides of a control surface gap is unsafe and may be an illegal modification to the aircraft. All you are sealing is the trim tab. Trim tabs are not primary control surfaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 Bolus tape on the trim tab top and bottom is just fine and causes absolutely no issues. I know it has been used on 30 plus CT's in the 4 years on the trim tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floats Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Thanks for all good advices. I temporarily used duct tape for a return flight. But denatured alcohol does not work, methyl ethyl ketone does not, WD40 does not. And acetone removes the paint. I guess the trick would be to use the bolus to fully recover and go beyond the existing glue that is now totally sun dried as the plane sleeps in the sun on the water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 The last time the bottom tape ripped on my plane, I called FD and they said it was fine to fly without it. I've been flying a couple of years with just the Bolus tape on top and I can't tell any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Fane Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Thanks for all good advices. I temporarily used duct tape for a return flight. But denatured alcohol does not work, methyl ethyl ketone does not, WD40 does not. And acetone removes the paint. I guess the trick would be to use the bolus to fully recover and go beyond the existing glue that is now totally sun dried as the plane sleeps in the sun on the water. The only other thing that I found that works is lightly scraping it off with a sharp razor blade. Just be careful that you aren't cutting into the paint / gel coat. It's tedious but works. I had to do it to the underside of mine to get the crap off from the original tape FD used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Runtoeat Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Agree with Roger Fane. I used a razor blade to CAREFULLY scrape off the old yellow glue that was left from the factory tape removal on my rear underfin. Scrape may not be the best description. More like pushing the blade on a very low angle and slicing thru the old glue to remove it so as not to gouge or cut the paint. Work slow and try to treat the glue first with anything that will sort of soften it up is best. FWIW, I use bolus on top and still have the factory mylar on the bottom. Before I install the bolus tape on the top, I run the trim tab down so the tape isn't stretched when I run the trim up or down. Jim, good to know that the tape isn't required for the bottom. When the mylar plastic looses it's adhesion, I'll probably just opt to not install anything in it's place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Baker Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 The best I've found for tape glue removal is some old synthol enamel reducer. Doesn't hurt the paint, and the glue comes off fairly easy. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDG Posted August 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 This stuff worked for me! http://www.goofoffstainremover.com/ Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted August 4, 2011 Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 Goof Off is what I have been using for years on the CT to remove old glue on trim tabs and wing roots. The old cloth tape glue is the hardest to remove, but will come off with GooF Off and a little elbow grease. I try not to scrape glue because no matter how hard you try you always seem to leave marks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
207WF Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Lighter fluid is much like goof off, just don't smoke while you use it! WF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CT4ME Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 With my two CTs, I've seen or used most of the stabilator gaps sealing methods. One thing they have in common is that they all fail in a couple of years and make a mess. In the process of re-doing mine again, I've flown a couple of times with no tape (top or bottom). As far as I can tell, there is no difference, and I'm questioning whether I want to bother even to put it back on. I see Jim is flying without tape, too. Anybody else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmInce Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Lone Mountain is both a CIrrus and Flight Design distributor. They do carbon fiber repair daily in their large hangar/shop. The product they use to remove adhesives from tape and decals is: 3M Adhesive Remover Citrus Based Part No. 6041 http://tinyurl.com/m5xpzco They then clean that off with Isopropyl Alcohol (they have it in 50 gallon drums). Thank you . . . . That's helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Meade Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 I have flown a little without tape but recently reapplied it. It's not a hard job. Clean it up well first. One tip I was given is to be careful to not stretch the tape. Pull out 6-8 inches, let it relax for a few minutes, and then put it on. That seems to work. Whoever put mine on in the first place had stretched it and one could tell it reflexed a good inch on both sides before it started peeling off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyingMonkey Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 With my two CTs, I've seen or used most of the stabilator gaps sealing methods. One thing they have in common is that they all fail in a couple of years and make a mess. In the process of re-doing mine again, I've flown a couple of times with no tape (top or bottom). As far as I can tell, there is no difference, and I'm questioning whether I want to bother even to put it back on. I see Jim is flying without tape, too. Anybody else? The tape is kind of a pain...if it's not doing anything aerodynamically and is purely cosmetic I'd probably remove it and never look back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.