Roger Lee Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 I believe CPS will have some of the new Rotax fuel pumps next week. The price will be the same as the old pump. About $163 for just the pump and $563+ for hoses and all. Just the pump for me please. The new pump also has a fitting off it's bottom for a drain hose in case it leaks. The new Rotax oil filters are out in circulation. They are different and not just 3mm longer. I haven't pulled one apart yet, but you can not pre-fill the new filters. Don't even both trying. It looks as though there are two by pass valves. When I get an oil change with one I'll cut one open and take some pictures. (no I won't cut open a new one) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 I don't like the idea of not being able to pre-fill. Since they made such a big deal about it in the past I've been very careful to take time and COMPLETELY pre-fill. Makes you wonder if it really was that important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted June 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Your right it was important to pre-fill the oil filter, but you can still do it dry. Your supposed to rotate the prop 40 times to get the oil in the oil filter and some of the air out. Remove one plug from each cyl. and it will be easier to spin the prop with a little speed. You can build up to 50-60 psi doing it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Your right it was important to pre-fill the oil filter, but you can still do it dry. Your supposed to rotate the prop 40 times to get the oil in the oil filter and some of the air out. Remove one plug from each cyl. and it will be easier to spin the prop with a little speed. You can build up to 50-60 psi doing it that way. I use a remote starter solenoid switch from Snap on. Disconnect the wire to the solenoid and run the leads to the solenoid and the + battery post. Then push the master on to get the EMS running, clear prop and push the button while looking at the EMS. LEAVE THE MAGS OFF Make sure your battery is fully charged This is a time saver because you dont have to remove the plugs. Oh and don't forget to plug the solenoid back up before you cowl it up ( not that I have ever done that ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted July 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 I hear the new fuel pumps are in at Lockwood. CPS may have theirs this week too with a little luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tad Olmsted Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 I hear the new fuel pumps are in at Lockwood. CPS may have theirs this week too with a little luck. I have to be there in the morning getting parts, I'll look into it and post my findings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy MacGregor Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 As of Airventure 150 pumps have been delivered to North and South America. There have been no reports of failures with new pumps however in select cases people have been reporting higher than normal fuel pressure in the 5-7 psi range. 5.8psi is the recommend max operating pressure however slightly higher is not a problem as long as there is no over flowing noted in the carbs. All in all the new pumps seem to be a good fix although there is not enough time on them for a diffinative answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marty.santic Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 I have installed the new style fuel pump on the 912, but, would like to know the best location for the end of the pump case drain hose. The manual indicates the drain should run downhill and should not be placed in any airstream. With the air moving thru the cowling, it is hard to find a location with a minimal amount of moving air. Comments? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 Hi Marty, Get some wire ties that glue on and run them down inside to cowl to the bottom by the front wheel. Just put some tubing in the wire ties and slip the end of the tube on or off the fuel pump nipple if you need to take off the bottom cowl. Just like unplugging the light when you need to take the cowl off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kentuckynet Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 Is there something wrong with our old fuel pumps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted September 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 not so long as it's working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitten192 Posted November 8, 2011 Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 On fuel pump replacement, Heavy Maintenance Manual notes "Don't use sealing compound on the sealing surface of the gearbox housing or on the fuel pump flange". Also, Mike S. taught the same at the Maint class. However, the IPM page 21-2 shows loctite 5910 on the isolating flange. :unsure: Comments? Ernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Lee Posted November 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2011 Hi Ernie, It goes on dry and you shouldn't have any issues. I haven't seen one leak if it is torqued down. On the outside chance of the rare leak then you have two choices. Buy a new gasket flange or apply a very thin film of 5910. 5910 is used to try and seal some odd leaks when nothing else works, but it isn't published in the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitten192 Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Hi Ernie, It goes on dry and you shouldn't have any issues. I haven't seen one leak if it is torqued down. On the outside chance of the rare leak then you have two choices. Buy a new gasket flange or apply a very thin film of 5910. 5910 is used to try and seal some odd leaks when nothing else works, but it isn't published in the manual. Thanks Roger. I was confused because the parts manual shows 5910 on the gasket but I was taught to put it together dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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