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  1. 2 likes
    Here’s a screen photo while in the cruise last week. 142 kts at FL095 DA11300 … The aircraft is a real pleasure to fly. Performance and comfort are just right. 😎 martin
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    My airplane is a 2006 CTsw. My flap actuator unit (linear actuator) was making a grinding noise in cold weather. So, I decided to fully rebuild the unit. What follows is my description of the full disassembly and reassembly. This is my process. I have no idea whether is it correct for your airplane nor whether you have the ability to perform the rebuild. Consider this post to be for your entertainment only. I am not responsible for anything you do to you airplane. Also, my airplane has Experimental registration and I am, consequently, permitted to perform maintenance on it. First, in this description, I will call the larger black anodized tube (that remains stationary during flap movement) the "outer tube" and the smaller diameter tube (that moves during flap movement) the "inner tube" (see photo). The cast lead screw gear housing will be called the "cast housing." The photo of parts on the yellow pad includes all parts except the two pivot screws that attach to the external holes on the large collar at the bottom of the outer tube (in addition to serving as a pivot, they also secure the cast housing to the base of the outer tube). The parts depicted on the yellow pad are NOT in any special order and should be used solely to see what each part looks like and not as a guide to the order of assembly. As noted by Corey in an earlier post, the order of the parts is critical (and their orientation matters, since there are four spring washers (conical or belville washers), the larger two of which are located between the cast housing the base of the outer tube into which it inserts and the other two of which provide preload to the ball bearings). The two larger spring washers are oriented such that their outer edges are in contact (and so that they form a shape like a flying saucer). There are a couple of steps during disassembly that must be done with proper tools and technique or the parts will be damaged. My first step was to remove the entire unit from the airplane. It is a very tight fit to remove when all of the flap regulator parts are attached (the assembly with microswitches, potentiometer, etc). As mentioned by Corey, I put the flaps in the lowest position and then used duct tape on the flaps/wings to prevent additional downward movement when the actuator was removed. I had to remove the interior light from the bulkhead between the cabin and the baggage compartment to make room. If you can disconnect the wires to the flap actuator that will help. On my airplane the wires to the flap regulator mechanism had no nine-pin connector (later airplanes have this convenient connector) and so after removing the linear actuator from the flap mechanism, I removed all those parts and left them, wires attached, in the baggage compartment. Removing the actuator requires removing the bolt from the upper pivot and keeping track of the brass bushing in the top eyelet of the actuator. If the top of the actuator does not come free, you may have to loosen the other bolts of the assembly to which it is attached. This is not difficult. Next, I removed the two pivot screws on the sides of the actuator. Doing so required removal of two screws on the two brass pivot bushings and removing the small aluminum retainer that covers the pivot screws (this assembly prevents the pivot screws from loosening over time). I used an offset screwdriver (flat blade) to remove the pivot screws. Make sure your screwdriver fits the slot since this part is retained with loctite. Once I had the actuator out of the airplane, I removed the motor unit by removing the four Phillips head screws. Separate the motor housing from the cast housing. Keep track of the two tiny washers on the reduction gear assembly. One of them can retained by grease in the cast housing (look for it) and the other is below the removable reduction gear assembly (the reduction gear slips off of its shaft). Once the motor housing is removed, it has only the removable reduction gear assembly and the two washers. I lost a washer and replaced it with a McMaster part (Chemical Resistant PTFE Plastic Washer for M2.5 Screw, Size 2.7mm ID, 5mm OD, pack of 50, Part # 95630A10). It seems to work. Next, I removed the large eyelet that is screwed into the top of the inner tube. Before you do this, NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE ALUMINUM BRACKET WITH RESPECT TO THE FLATS OF THE LARGE EYELET. THIS MUST BE REINSTALLED IN THE SAME ORIENTATION DURING REASSEMBLY (THERE IS NO KEYWAY OR FLAT TO KEEP IT PROPERLY ORIENTED). There is a small setscrew that must be removed first (also held in place with loctite - I used heat and plenty of it). To remove the eyelet, I had to hold the inner tube so it would not rotate. I used a set of properly sized V-blocks in a vice. I had to head soak the eyelet and top of the inner tube with my heat gun set at 1000 degrees. I was then able to unscrew the eyelet assembly. Note that these parts are easily damaged. Heat is your friend here, the eyelet was installed with a lot of loctite in the threads. Once the top eyelet was removed, I removed the large lead screw drive gear. It is held in place with a tight fitting roll pin. Again, I supported the assembly with V-blocks and positioned the gear so that I would not damage the gear teeth when driving the pin. I tapped the pin out of the gear and then separated the gear from the screw (with the pin out, the gear slips off of the lead screw). Now, the lead screw can be turned until it is removed from inner tube (the plastic nut in which the lead screw turns is secured in the bottom of the inner tube and can be seen in one of the pictures). At this point, the unit is disassembled sufficiently for complete cleaning and inspection. As the old saying goes, re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Be sure the two ball bearings/races/spring washers are meticulously clean. Note correct position of the white semicircular plastic part from earlier posts in this thread. Note that the lead screw gear has the lower race for the upper bearing and the upper race for the lower bearing pressed fitted (I did not attempt to remove, I saw no need to do so). There has been prior discussion of grease and I am no expert. I used a moly-based grease sold by the firearms parts vendor, Brownells. I had it on hand. Because the lead screw nut is plastic, I am not sure the specific lubricant is critical. The reduction gears are metal and need an appropriate lubricant. If you purchase a new actuator from FD USA, not that the upper eyelet will not have the two machined flats and will not fit as shipped. You will either have to machine them (recommended only if you are good with a milling machine) or transfer your existing eyelet and drill and tap for the set screw. You will also have to use lots of heat to soften the loctite, as mentioned above. See my caution (ALL CAPS) above during reassembly. Once assembled, you can bench test the actuator by energizing the motor. Reversing polarity of the leads to the motor will reverse its direction. Remember, on the bench, the microswitches will not limit travel so, DO NOT RUN THE MOTOR TO THE STOPS, YOU WILL DAMAGE THE UNIT. A couple more items: The black plastic plug can be pried out and pushed back in to the cast housing. And, I replaced the four Phillips head screws that secure the motor unit to the cast housing with Allen-head cap screws (M4 12mm length) with new lock washers. Easier to remove with the unit installed in the airplane. The job is not difficult. Removing and re-installing the unit and and flap regulating mechanism was tedious, however. There are several opportunities to destroy the unit if proper procedures are not followed. A new unit from FD is about $800. Hope this helps someone. Ps: In case you were wondering where I have been, I built a RANS S-20 which now has 200 hours (Rotax 912, Oratex fabric, full dual screen Skyview with AP, tricycle gear).
  3. 1 like
    I just watched this video anybody has a suggestion for a digital CO detector ? thanks
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    They just slide out. I secure them with a couple strips of duct tape across the gap on top. This prevents them from flopping down and possibly gouging the fuselage. I also use one strip in the ailerons. Them flopping down is not an issue, but it makes reconnecting the controls easier when it goes back together.
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    It has been about 5 months since I put the vg's on my CTSW and have done a lot of landings to evaluate them. I can do full stall landings with a nose high attitude with no tendency to drop with the tail prematurely stalling. The vg's are effective for 15, 30, and 40 degrees flaps however 40 requires more attention due to quicker speed decay. If you drive your landings on, there is no benefit to having vg's. There is no stall speed reduction at altitude. The vg benefit only seems to occur when in ground effect.
  7. 1 like
    It’s all about the mission.
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    Hi All, Food for thought and a quick tip to make maint. and flying better. During the annual you are supposed to remove the float bowls and look for debris and weigh the floats. It's on the maint. checklist. Since you are into this this far you might as well take 5 minutes and remove and clean the idle jet. I just push the carb back out of its rubber socket so I can tilt the bottom towards me and raise it up a couple of inches to clear the heat shield / drip tray. So while the bowl is off you can take a flat tip screwdriver and unscrew the idle jet located right next to the brass protruding main jet. I find most at least half clogged and some fully clogged. If you hold the jet up to the sunlight you should see a small clean hole through the center of the jet. Most times you can barely see it or not at all. This causes harder starts. Take a 8" piece of #14-18 gauge wire and strip back about 5" of the insulation. Unwind just one strand . This is how tiny the hole through the center of the idle jet is. DO NOT use a drill bit or anything else along this line. This will damage the jet hole, but the wire will not. I've been doing it like this for almost 20 years and never had an issue. Put the single strand of wire through the center of the idle jet and slide it back and forth and twist it in circles. This will break up any debris and dried fuel. Then follow up with some spray carb cleaner like "Brake Clean" with the 6" long red nozzle. It's small and fits inside the jet for a good flushing down through both ends of the jet. Now follow that with some high pressure air. Now that this is done look through the idle jet again against the light and you should see a small, but nice clean passage through the center of the idle jet. Now just screw it back in place and replace the bowl and floats. Owners that don't seem have have easy starts can do this anytime. If someone has a really high unequal vacuum on their gauges on one carb at idle during a carb sync you can have the same issue with the idle jet and may need cleaning. This is easy and quick to do while the bowl is off so you might as well do the next best thing and be that cut above average.
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    Between Tom Baker's assessment and Roger Lee's guidance, I think we found the issue. Since I never take the key out of the ignition, therefore can't/don't turn off the fuel (my Bad), the "head pressure" of the fuel is always trying to force fuel into the carb. I have weighed the floats and each pair are good at under 7 grams but we think needle is not seating properly and still allowing the fuel to enter the throat and into the open intake valve which would explain the feeling of a hydrolock sometimes. Either way, ONE cylinder is always super rich and it takes a few seconds of VIOLENCE to burn itself out then runs fine. Last week i started it every morning for 5 days but turned OFF the fuel after each run and the engine started perfectly. I flew about 3 hours last weekend and everything was normal. The annual is due in April so I will have Roger rebuild the carbs. Either way, just by changing my procedure seemed to clear it up. THANKS for everyone's input and help!
  11. 1 like
    In that area it will typically be a fuel line, fuel valve or the fuel flow transducer. I have seen leaks where the wrong size fuel line was used, and the fuel shut off valves are known to leak. I have never replaced a fuel flow transducer due to leaking. Access is through the left panel and the lower center panel.
  12. 1 like
    Or is it a CTLSi?
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    That was the timeframe when FD Germany was having problems, and even simple modifications was getting ridiculous. I would ask again, I know you're E-LSA so you don't actually have to, but if you ever wanted to go back to S-LSA, you have the documentation to back up the move.
  14. 1 like
    Out of stock here also. https://oil-store.com/product/aeroshell-sport-plus-4-case-12-1-liter/
  15. 1 like
    Same in my 07. I have never heard of a CTSW with a stall horn.
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    I have a 15 foot telescoping microphone boom, I have a power pack stored in one of the inspection holes on the wing w/double sided tape and a hole drilled in the plexiglass that runs a power cable to the camera so that I can keep my 360 camera on for over an hour. If you check out the end of the below video you'll see some good shots!
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    When you need an expert Rotax service tech for a 914 or any 912 series engine look no further. There is a Rotax expert for any of Rotax 4 stroke engines and we have one of the top Avionics’ tech in the state. There are two Rotax mechanics to take care of your aircraft and engine and rates are very reasonable compared to most shops. One mechanic is an LSRM-A that specialists in Light Sport aircraft and the other Rotax mechanic is an A&P / IA that's a specialist for 914's. Our times to perform most maintenance like annuals or 5 year rubber changes is very quick. An annual can take just two days. A Rotax 5 year rubber change is two days. Most people that fly in from around the country just grab a hotel for a couple of days site seeing around Tucson and southern Arizona and then back in the plane to head home. Our avionics tech is absolutely one of the best and can do just about anything you need. Transponder certifications are quick and inexpensive. In need of an ADSB install or work or other types of avionics installs and troubleshooting look no further. This gentleman can do it all. We are lucking to have such an avionics talent.
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    Here is a video of the Insta 360 OneX: My son is getting one for this snowboarding.
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    The clear inspection cover in the middle underside of the wing. I reached up in there and put a patch of heavy duty velcro inside, and stick the battery to it. I used a step bit to drill a hole in the clear inspection cover large enough for the USB cable head to pass through. When I'm not using the camera, I put a piece of bolus tape (or you could use clear scotch tape) over the hole in the cover. This setup has worked for me for 4+ years. Here's a video taken with that setup using my old GoPro at Lake Powell: You can get creative with camera placement too and use it to, for instance, critique your landings...
  21. 1 like
    I have an FAA-sized carry bag I use for trips. It's soft sided and fits in the baggage bay of my CTSW, but it's tight. There's no way this would work with a hard-sided FAA standard bag. Here's the one I use. I picked it in case I ever get stuck by weather or mechanical issues and need to take a commercial flight home: https://www.maxpedition.com/products/fliegerduffel-adventure-bag?variant=36683506513
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