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  1. 3 likes
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but it *sounds* like you're saying something to the effect of "data is meaningless, we have to wait and see how it shakes out". The problem I see with that is by the time it shakes out if you really have a major problem, it's unrecoverable. All we have is the data of confirmed cases versus death and the demographics associated with those numbers. We can't ignore the data we do have because it's incomplete, and we can't just presume there's no problem because we're not testing everybody with kits that aren't available. It would be nice to test everybody, but those tests are only a snapshot of a moment in time; any person tested could be infected before they get the negative results of the test (which takes days)! Isolating people that are vulnerable and letting everybody else roam free is problematic because you can't separate the two populations. If I'm super healthy and my wife has COPD, I'm not going to go live somewhere else. So if I'm going to work, I'm dragging home whatever I come in contact with. How many 20- and 30-somethings are living with their parents? Should they go off to work and then come home to their 60-75 year old parents? You can't treat the vulnerable population as separate, because they are not and never will be, unless you round them up and send them to a camp somewhere against their will. In fact, what you are describing has been tried...in Italy. The Italians let people travel and continue working well past the point where they had a true medical crisis. I do still disagree with your assertion that the young are not vulnerable, I have seen way too much evidence to the contrary for me to ignore. But this is a good discussion, as long as we all stay civil we can certainly disagree and a have a conversation about it. And don't get me wrong; I am not in favor of forced government quarantines and restrictions on businesses. What I am for is voluntary action on the part of individuals and businesses to be smart and stop the spread.
  2. 2 likes
    I grew up in an era when I would come back to the house after wiping out on my bike over at the neighbors and my father would say "walk it off, you will be alright". Nowadays, parents call the ambulance, the kid would take antibiotics, therapy would be scheduled and the neighbor would be sued....; ) Governments downplay, the Press overplays... a condition as old as the hills. My belief is that if 3-4 of us -- out of 100 cases -- are going to die from an infection that spreads from human interaction, and the only way to "control" it until the pills/shots arrive, which may take 12-18 months, is to separate and continue to bathe in disinfectants and wear masks in public and at work. It sucks, but there is no other way until the pills/shots arrive. Any of us would feel terrible if we didn't adhere to the current preventative basics and we got our family sick. 3-4% is a scary ratio when it hits home. The goodness that will come out of this is I believe is that we humans will have to learn how to live together and depend on each other again. Meanwhile, I will drive to the airport and pre-flight the CT just to get out of the house as everyone is here and we are "learning" how to live as one... a nightmare, but the alternative is far worse.
  3. 2 likes
    Slow day of posts... Here's something to get the party started. Me and county airport pal's flew to center of Michigan (Clare 48D airport) for lunch on Saturday, was 86nm hop from Y83 Sandusky where many of my friends hanger their birds. On the flight back we left in this sequence: First off Citabria 7ECA, then 172, Cherokee 160, and myself. The first three departures were fairly close, about a minute or so apart. I had to hang back a couple more to allow oil temp to reach min, then launched. Took about 10 minutes before I had visual on the 172 and Citabria, went by them in no time. Citabria was showing 85k ground speed on ATS-B track, compared to my 111k, slight head wind component. Took a while longer to pass the Cherokee but still had him well before the halfway mark, he mentioned it was throttled back some but would not hang with me even full power. When I landed the Cherokee was entering pattern, I think he tried to reel me in and could not do it. The 172 and Citabria were 10-15 minutes later. I was in the ~5100+ RPM range, not pushing it to max cruise. Flying these CT's is such a treat.
  4. 1 like
    Please Like/ subscribe/ Thumbs up/ Feedback. I know the audio is scratchy, this will be improved on the next video. Also, the length is a little much. Thanks for watching!
  5. 1 like
    Outside of storage capabilities I think the CT makes for a great XC machine. I flew mine from from California to Ohio and did 6 hour legs without any issues, in fact I was quite comfortable.
  6. 1 like
    I decided to show this as a new post because it is about having a Discrepant Engine Mount. My earlier related post was about Engine Removal. So, I discovered after removing my engine (with the engine mount) that the lower left engine mount tube was mis-located by nearly 1/4 inch (comparing the right and left sides). I took a picture before I removed the engine mount and later realized that there was a metal to metal condition at that mount (the SPACER 87 was resting on the flange inside the mount tube). I'll post a picture showing that mis-alignment. FD USA said they could not authorize any repair (I submitted 3 weld repair ideas). Here is where it gets weird: FD Europe would not say if it was usable or not, and they would not approve any weld repair, but THEY AUTHORIZED FD USA TO APPROVE AN MRA FOR REPAIR OF MY ENGINE MOUNT. That drove me nuts, but it also caused me to go back to the drawing board and think how I could compensate for the mis-alignment inside that mis-located tube. So, I did come up with a good idea and did a drawing yesterday. I'll attach a copy of my drawing as well as an excerpt from the FD drawing for comparison. I will also post a picture of the inspection station that I set up just to do a precision inspection of my mount. I needed a granite plate (surprisingly a 9" x 12" x 2" was only about $40) and a 24" digital height gauge (they are very expensive, but I made my own from a cheap 24" digital read out). This picture shows the mis-location of the lower left mount tube. The 0.1805 reading is the actual precision amount that it is mis-located above the lower right mount (the picture shows the front of the engine mount, left and right reversed). But, it turns out that the engine mount can only shift off nominal by about .12/.13" before you get a metal to metal condition. So, just in case any of you see this kind of mis-alignment when you have your engine cowling off, there is a fix. But, you would need to do a precision inspection and you would need a milling machine and a boring head (to remove the 2 flanges inside the mis-located tube). Also I will custom make my shock rubber using the correct grade of 3/8" Neoprene rubber sheet and a cookie cutter technique. Oh, I gotta show off the response I got from Tom at FD USA: Hi Ed. I think it looks like a very sensible solution and yes. I’d sign an MRA for that change. Airtime is fine with using the mount they have for repairing an airplane so there will be no hard feelings there either I’m sure. Please let us know when you come up with the final fix it’s very clever. Tom Peghiny President, Flight Design USA 860-963-7272 Happy Flying all . . . ET
  7. 1 like
    My flap controller went bad. I was still getting a readout, but the 0 position was malfunctioning. Programming did nothing to resolve it. It was reading out dashes (---) like when you move it to manual up and manual down, so I pulled the controller out and started reverse engineering it. I know enough about electronics to get myself in trouble, but I am by no means an expert. But, I do know that almost every electronic component has an ID on it, so I start IDing things. The small tiny stuff is just generic components like resistors, transistors, etc, but I overlayed text to show what the big important devices are. Turns out, this version of the flap controller only sends 5 positions (-6, 0, 15, 30, 35) to the microcontroller. The other two, manual up and manual down, bypass the board entirely and just send a signal to the relays to roll the motor one way or the other. That's a good clue! That means that when the controller doesn't have a signal, it still provides an indication of some kind! So now, with the voltmeter, I start tracing out some of the pin positions. First, I verify that the rotary switch is actually getting good contact. Uh oh. Nope, not getting good contact on two pin positions, moving the switch causes jitter. It's a pretty generic switch so I just opened it up, clean the contacts, and replaced the wiper. Retest. Still no 0 position, but the flicker is gone now. Back to the bench! After a while of studying this board, I get to one of the chips. There's not much between the switch terminals and the microcontroller, and I've already verified the controller is making good contact. I pull the number etchings off the chip and go look up the datasheet. This chip is a darlington transistor array. I don't know enough about electronics to say what this chip is used for in this circuit design, but the data sheet has a block diagram, and basically it's just amplifying to the corresponding pin on the opposite side. When I start testing the terminals... oh. The 0 position is all wonky on this chip. I take my physical measurements of the chip, comb the datasheets to figure out which version this is (and holy crap, there are a LOT of versions!), and put an order on mouser for 2 at a whole whopping $0.58 each. Now, these are SMD devices. Surface Mount Devices, if you will. Lots of pins. It's about time I get a real electronics workstation, so I pick up this nice piece for ~180. Hot air gun, soldering iron with vacuum, desoldering vacuum, digital control... and lots of tips, including one that will work well for drag soldering. Technically this should be attributed in the cost of repair too, but I've been looking for a reason to buy this anyways! So, I swap out the chip, cross my fingers and plug it in. VOILA! It works! $1300 saved with only a few bucks in parts plus a soldering station that will be used many times more! Now to clean up those diode mounts. My fault because I got things a little too warm near them and they moved a bit, and I moved them back but not very well. I'll be redoing them.
  8. 1 like
    Yay, (6) shock mount discs done! They meet my drawing tolerances. And I have tooling to make more discs which I will pass on to the new owner, if and when I sell my CT. So, sharing some pictures related to the shock discs fabrication. The white object on top of the hydraulic jack is a PVC fitting I found at Home Depot, that would work for the adapter I needed - I machined it to slip fit in the bottom of my punch and over the hydraulic jack ram. I made the (5) additional discs I needed in about half an hour, way cool, ha ha. They did come out slightly larger OD (.010") by the slower shearing action of the hydraulic jack and truer because of the better alignment while shearing. I should be able to knock the (3) metal parts out in a couple of days, have it all planned in the point of my head, ha ha. ET
  9. 1 like
    Update: 1). I'm sorry, I uploaded only the 2 page version of my MRA. So I have deleted that and uploaded the 8 page version. 2). And to Runtoeat - I did try blanking out the shock disc by slow clamping motion in my angle-lock vise (made for milling, the jaws stay very square to each other). It came out slightly larger and more cylindrical. But, I messed up my punch, grrrr. I ordered some 1.50 dia alum rod and I will make a guide so that I can use a hydraulic jack and do this. What a career, sheesh! I'll have to post another picture of my set up (wood framed arbor press)! I used multiple strikes with a mini sledge hammer. Just made 2 holes so far, but they both came out very straight and clean (amazingly). I will try the same method with my home made punch. I've got a 6 foot roll of rubber, won't run out, ha ha. I can always machine the OD if I need to (but it's a mess and very slow. I realized I didn't share the finished MRA, so attaching. I have not redone it to show the number, but It's 20-021-USA. When I start machining the steel parts, I'm going to add a cutting oil flood system. I bought the flex outlet hose, but I'm making a gravity flow system with a supply jug and drain jug. Lots of little steps to this project! But, as I have said, really enjoying the challenge. 3-29-2020 update: Finished making my punch to blank out the rubber shock discs. Thought I'd share a couple pics. It is quite sharp: I nicked myself when taking it out of the fixture and it cut me! I'll have to find a container for it so the knife edge won't get bent up. I didn't make a handle, just put the rubber strip down on a 2 x 4 (I use the end of the 2 x 4, the punch cuts into the end grain easier), put the punch on top, put a piece of birch 1 x 2 on top and struck right over the punch with my mini sledge. BTW: That's a 1/8 dia. carbide end mill. The supplier said I shouldn't need cutting oil (and I didn't have it set up) so I did this dry. When I saw these online I realized it would exert far less cutting force (when I cut out the periphery of my chrome moly sheet parts). It did just fine, the part and the cutter stayed fairly cool. MRA - Engine Mount all pages rev 3-15-2020.pdf
  10. 1 like
    The isolator came out surprising well. Is it better to make a quick strike as you're doing with the hammer or to slowly press the punchies thru the rubber with a vise or arbor press?
  11. 1 like
    Poking along on this engine mount repair. I am really enjoying the challenges. I have bored out the 2 flanges in the mis-located tube and polished out the paint. I bought a hone to finish polishing it. I made one trial rubber shock mount. I machined the OD and punched the hole (with a store bought punch, very reasonable). I'm sharing a picture of my holding fixture for machining the chrome moly spacer (don't have the hardware to clamp it to the mini rotary table yet). This piece of chrome moly tube I am actually going to make into a punch to punch the OD of the remaining 5 rubber shock mounts. I'm amazed how well the punching works, it takes 3 or 4 hits with a mini sledge, but makes a very precise hole. This first rubber shock mount meets my repair drawing dimensions/tolerances, yay! BTW: Got my MRA approval a few days ago. Big yay!
  12. 1 like
    The new CTLS! Picked up from KILM yesterday.
  13. 1 like
    Since it appears you can be infected by the virus for a week before any symptoms appear, the only safe course is to assume you are already infected and then take the necessary precautions to avoid infecting anyone else.
  14. 1 like
    Please.. this is not a binary choice between locking everyone regardless of their risk exposure and doing nothing.
  15. 1 like
    I agree with Darrell that the next 2 weeks will tell us what to expect. The spring break infections haven't popped up yet and when that happens everyone under 30 will start to take it seriously. I'm an ENT doc in Tulsa and Friday of last week was when things really shifted here. I expect this to be a serious issue for the next 6 weeks and then taper off. Good time to have your own plane, you couldn't get me on a commercial flight right now. FYI, the main spread is by hand to face contact. Unless you are in a confined space with a visibly sick person or they cough or sneeze then a mask really doesn't help much. If they are actively sick then a mask is helpful. N95/N100 masks filter particles .3 microns and larger and the virus is .12 microns, but the are better than a bandana. Stay safe and wash your hands often. Edited to add that the benefit of everyone staying home is that 75% of those infected have no symptoms and are just dusting the world with unseen risk. We have the young and middle age and elderly in the hospitals critically ill. It's touching every age group. Warmi, I'm not pointing a finger at you at all, just adding my opinion.
  16. 1 like
    That’s fine , I see logic behind containing it but this is not some kind of terrifying magic ... you don’t end up infecting others if you follow certain very simple rules like don’t go out if you are symptomatic and can potentially spread it ( coughing , sneezing etc ) - and if you are not , you are just wasting your time sitting at home - at least that’s my take on it.
  17. 1 like
    Why would you want to stay away from gas pumps ? Just wash your hands after pumping gas and you will be fine - this is not Ebola , you know ...
  18. 1 like
    This will be a very critical week in the US, watching the data closely, and not liking the curve. Fortunately my industry and employer supplies to medical field and we're classified an essential business. I have seen the auto supply chain come to a quick halt this week, my auto industry pals are reporting large lay off's today - not good. Another interesting bit of news, I sold a pile of rapid tooling mold base inserts to several automotive shops today, they are selected to build injection molds with 1 week lead times for General Motors in support of the respirator project to build capacity on this upcoming urgent need. 1 week lead times are unheard of for steel injection mold builds, that is usually just the design time, forget manufacturing. One shop bought 40. I'm an eternal optimist on most all things in life, and will weather this storm, but buckled up hard around home and financially as I'm seeing things becoming far worse before improving - I hope I'm wrong. A couple weeks ago I filled several gas cans to keep ready in hanger, I'm self quarantining just fine in the CT, flew yesterday in a CAVU beauty of a day. Plan to stay away from gas pumps until Michigan lifts the stay at home situation, that is at least three weeks from today.
  19. 1 like
    Maybe a couple knots. For those who are flying CTSW's if you remove the main pants make sure to reinstall and tighten the rear screw. It also secures the gear leg fairing from sliding up and down the leg.
  20. 1 like
    I came up close behind a Cessna Citation once and had to ask the controller if I could deviate to the side to avoid the jet blast. He said that was fine... as long as I stayed within the marked boundaries of the taxiway. Mike Koerner
  21. 1 like
    Removing the mains is a cinch (I have the "tundras"). When/if you reinstall, use Locktite on the 4 screws... I had one back out on me... haven't had the problem since.
  22. 1 like
    A few years ago I passed a Beech Sierra. I took off right after him and figured he was gone as soon as the gear came up. Didn't happen. After leveling at 4500 MSL I asked if he was still on frequency and could I pull up on his left side. He was on frequency and asked "you mean you're keeping up with me?" To which I replied "no, I'm gonna pass you". He was amazed to say the least. Now, for a CT to pass a Sierra with twice the horsepower and a folding gear is pretty amazing. But, keep in mind that the Sierra is a dog. It was meant to compete with the Piper Arrow and Cessna Cardinal RG but never could. Maybe his was the dog of all Sierras but I still felt pretty good!
  23. 1 like
    Great info, Skunk - thanks!
  24. 1 like
  25. 1 like
    I replaced my original lights and the replacements failed. Recently installed Whelen strobe lights. Quality lights with great visibility. One new wire must be run if one opts for the strobe like I did. If the current factory red beacon light is NFG, the white Whelen tail light replaces this. Arian can help with MRA 7-Whelen MicroBurst LED spec sheet-n9922z.pdf
  26. 1 like
    P/N 838-242, $13.50 each. Simply called "Spring". Should be able to get anywhere they sell parts. I have a friend with an AeroTrek and he doesn't have those springs on his either.
  27. 1 like
    Set up my engine mount on my mini mill today and machined the first flange off up to the point of the weld bead (I thought it was brazed, would have been easy to machine). Anyway, it was very hard and it would have ruined my boring bit. I quit for the evening and shopped online for a way to grind the weld off. Ordered 2 sets of rotary bits. The second one is very promising: Dremel makes a mandrel and abrasive discs that are 1.5 dia! The tube ID is just under 1.5, so I can size the discs, then plunge cut to clean out the weld/remaining flange. I am enjoying this because of the challenge. I think I will do the MRA tomorrow, I love the drawing/technical writing too.
  28. 1 like
  29. 1 like
    Yes what would this world be without them 🤗 did another mod with arduino...hooked it up with flap control- Rotary switch 6 position w lever and an onoff button if arduino fails se can rum flaps w original toggle switch, same oled screen with big numbers-12,-6,0,15,30 & 40 degrees flap. another mod was keyless doors changed to combination cam lock. Never arrive to plane w no keys!
  30. 1 like
    Andy, first off this isn't just a LSR thing, it also applies to A&P mechanics. The regulations allow mechanics and repairmen to do a wide range of complex procedures on aircraft and their components. Do you think it is safe for someone to do a complex task without having any training, or at least someone looking over their shoulder the first time. The FAA does give a pretty wide latitude for compliance. Performing a similar task one one aircraft transfers to other aircraft even if the task is slightly different. If you have removed wings from a CT you can remove wings from a Carbon Cub. Lastly if you have an A&P supervise the work you don't have them sign off the work. You have them sign off that they have supervised you performing the work, and that it was satisfactory. This allows you to make the sign off for the work and provides documentation for the next time that you perform the task.
  31. 1 like
    I think that will buff out...
  32. 1 like
    I always thought that second bolded line Tom quoted to be perplexing. You can't do work unless you have done it before, otherwise you need to get the FAA to come out and look over your work...that really makes the rating useless from a practical standpoint of somebody trying to make money or a living as a LSRM. If I have to pay an A&P or IA to supervise everything I do that I have not previously done, I might as well pay them to "supervise" the work and sign it off without me having an LSRM...
  33. 1 like
    Thank you, Corey and cdarza !! Had a slow & uneven flaps actuation (see video). Inspired by Corey's description and cdarza's photos, I leapt in and dismantled, cleaned and re-greased the Flaps Actuator in our CT2k. Much smoother action now. Thank you again for generously sharing this knowledge. David Australia IMG_1663.m4v
  34. 1 like
    New panel is in, will launch in the morning for first flight. Wiring / plumbing and most of the hard work is complete, will paint and laser etch some markings to finish it up when weather is better. The open slot on left is USB data in for EFIS updates, currently have some serial wires hanging out for ADS-B data in from the Stratux, awaiting some connectors and bits for that part of project and don't want to pull panel when ready to test that out.
  35. 1 like
    https://www.facebook.com/jonas.ronnholm.3/videos/3059424367401077/ 8 inches of fresh fluffy snow...jeeeeesuuuus what a difference in resistance!! but with 15° of flaps and a high nose and boxing it down as soon as airbourne it went well with a fairly short takeoff!! complete video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a8KfIkVigj4
  36. 1 like
    Glad you are getting things put together the way you want them. I do have to ask again, because I never saw an answer in the other thread: Is this work a result of trying to fix an actual defect noted in flying, handling, or structure, or an attempt to correct a dimensional variance?
  37. 1 like
    I edited my previous post and included picture of the plastic pc - and indicated where that fits
  38. 1 like
    Flaps down lowest. Use the manual down setting.
  39. 1 like
    Im attaching some photos for those interested in the flap motor removal and the parts within: Picture 1. Note; When I removed the motor, the small whitetish plastic part and the round metal pc didn't come off -so it took me awhile to figure out that this also had to come off to get access to the jack screw Picture 2 Picture 3 Picture 4. This is pic 3 disassembled. Don't lose the white plastic part (forgot to include it this photo) Picture 5 Picture 6 Picture 7. Cleaned and ready to grease Picture 8 - the small plastic piece that can barely be seen in seen in picture 1 When re-installing - make sure the plastic is inserted correctly - I was having a difficult time inserting the motor/gear back in as the plastic was installed wrongly...
  40. 1 like
    The jack screw is inside the assembly. That's a cap, probably so they can inject grease during manufacturing. There are 4 screws if I recall correctly. Two of which are near that cap. Keep flaps at lowest position before you do this or you'll have parts going everywhere... and again, you should still be laying out rags and such to catch the parts.
  41. 1 like
    Thanks for the guidance on this. Im gonna attempt servicing it this weekend. Just wanted to double check; 2 screws on the bottom and 2 screws on the top (as per pics). The jackscrew, that stays in as i pull down the motor yes? Then rotate the jackcrew to lower it .. Does the jack screw eventually come off ? or just lower it enough to be wiped down and regreased? (thanks for all the details as i am likely to mess this up - thus wanna make sure i know im not missing something) And YES i will make sure flap is at lowest position before starting the procedure !! LOL
  42. 1 like
    It's a jack screw that internally has a pretty decent load on it. The moly grease is what I put in both the gearbox and the jackscrew. This is also why I said don't cheap out. The carrier grease is important too. I am not sure why this works, because I can still clearly see the grease on the jackscrew (though barely), I just know that the moly grease I use lasts a long time. Aeroshell 33 is another that I have used. I have also learned that non synthetic greases are terrible for this application. I ended up having to regrease less than 6 months later when I tried one of the single digit aeroshell greases, can't remember which. The grease did not stay in place at all. I started using moly because this is also what is used in a lot of other jackscrew applications in airlines.
  43. 1 like
    Obvious legal thing: I'm not responsible for what you do to your flaps even if you follow this overview. This guide applies to the vertical flap actuator system, if you have the horizontal one... you'll have to wing it i guess, most of this stuff still applies. Find a molybdenum grease. Yeah it's gonna be EXPENSIVE. Don't cheap out. Flaps need to be in their lowest position. If you don't do this, parts are going to fly everywhere and you'll probably damage something. Again, lowest possible position. Use the manual down on your flap controller. Did I say lowest possible position yet? Just in case I didn't.... Put a towel under the flap actuator and make sure it covers everything. These parts are not replaceable. You need to catch them if they fall out. Start by disconnecting the two terminals on the motor. Leave the wires to the potentiometer alone, you're just taking the motor off. Are the flaps in the lowest position? Last chance! Using a screwdriver, look for the 4 philips screws where the heads are facing down on the motor to assembly flange. Remove them carefully, keeping a hand on the motor. Once removed, slowly lower the motor, taking photos so you can see how it was assembled. There are, as I can best remember, 2 free floating gears, itty bitty teeny weeny spacers for those gears, 2 roller bearing assemblies with a removable track that comes with it, and a guide pin positioning spacer (plastic, looks like a sickle, pay attention to how it is fitted in, this is critical!). Pay attention to how it was assembled, *ALL* of this is required or your motor will likely self destruct because it's all meant to hold things in place with the *enormous* forces felt in operation. With all of this removed, put your finger up into the jackscrew and rotate it counterclockwise. You shouldn't have to use much force. The jackscrew will lower, take it out as far as it will allow you to. There may be bearings and races attached, make sure you don't lose them! Proceed to clean parts and wipe down the jackscrew, and put in molybdenum grease in the actuator gearbox, and a coating on the jackscrew. Run the jackscrew up and down and reapply once or twice. Wind the jackscrew back in. Reassemble and test. Positioning that plastic sickle spacer was by far the biggest pain, a little coating of grease on it should hold it in place.
  44. 1 like
    Well it's been 2 weeks. Am absolutely delighted with this plane. Thanks to all for your help with the decision. See y'all in the Forum Dom Esposito
  45. 1 like
    I have a 2008 Tecnam in my hangar right now for my class this weekend. landing close to the same, but here is why I prefer the CT: The cabin is 5.5" wider, it handles taller occupants, has more knee room, more cargo area, because of the way the CT door opens it's easier to get in and out of and I like the view out the cabin in flight better, no wing struts to walk around (minor) and a parachute.
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