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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Just hit numbers around 55 and you be good whatever it takes to get there.
  2. 1 point
    Third Training Session... 3 hours. "this close" to solo...; )… great day, little to no wind, sunny... cold. 9 gals in each side + 2 humans for weight. Never felt cold or drafty in the plane , the heat and wind sealing work fine. Practiced 15, 0 and -6 degrees flaps T's and L's at both Chester and Wyndham airports here in Connecticut. Uploaded the Seattle Avionics software (Sectional, Airport Plates, etc.) into the (3) Dynons… very cool information. Helpful. Learning the Dynon, to me it is a whole new language but fairly intuitive. I wish Dynon had a better online training course, lack of formal online training is the ONLY negative I have discovered about Dynon. The online videos are meh and do not represent the quality of the Dynon product. Stand out training takeaways today: When taking off, a little immediate back pressure helps with the directional control while barreling down the runway. This is a stick and rudder airplane. It isn't your Grandfather's 172 or Cherokee. Coordinated turns - always. If one can dial that into one's brain, this plane is a cinch to fly. If one (like me...; ) forgets that golden rule occasionally, then the landings aren't as smooth. Nonetheless, I did some "Student" style landings today and the plane handled them fine... at no time did I feel out of control in the least. The plane auto-corrected a few doozies. Next session... 30 degrees flaps T's and O's... and possibly a solo. Kent W... @ 5000 rpm, level flight (autop engaged) @ 2,500' @ no wind = 113 knots, 5.1 Gals/hr. Lastly, A ferry pilot arrived in Woodstock to take my plane's "Container Mate" down to North Carolina this AM for delivery to another customer. Stunningly, it is only a 5.5 hours flight from Woodstock. No fuel stop, Amazing !
  3. 1 point
    Crow Enterprizes have what you need. http://www.crowenterprizes.com/index.htm They have the dimensions to make seat belts for CT's already as many CT owners have ordered before you. I can't remember exactly the cost but my recollection is that they are about $150-175 for the set. You only have to hit your head hard once because of the OEM slippery webbing that doesn't stay tight when you hit turbulence. Your significant other will thank you when you don't get a concussion because of a bump.
  4. 1 point
    It's simple, two.bolts. You might have to install a quick connector for the two wires to the PTT switch. My right stick stays out most of the time, it's just easier for non-pilot passengers, especially if they are "husky".
  5. 1 point
    Nice execution of a great idea! I've also wondered about the possibility of placing a folding bike in the front seat area. I don't own a folder, but I've thought about getting one.
  6. 1 point
    Nice job. How easy would it be to remove the right joystick to prevent the bike interfering with it ?
  7. 1 point
    My best photo from yesterday's shoot is one of 'my' airport - Mammoth Yosemite Airport at sunrise KMMH
  8. 1 point
    I think the CT data would be interesting to review this way: 1) "CTSW" vs "CTLS"... in other words, did the landing gear, fuselage lengthening, add'l weight, and, wing changes make a positive difference in the accident rates? Seems that all the CT data was in a big box dating back to the dawn of LSA time. 2) Original CTSW landing gear vs landing gear upgrade. In my research into buying a new plane, I believe CT is one of the few re-model'd models... Most have effectively the same airplanes as first introduced... Pipistrel has several models... and a low USA base.
  9. 1 point
    Humphreys today November 27, 2018
  10. 1 point
    "The manufacturers control who you buy from and their prices, or you are in violation if you do not. This is a true monopoly and was an oversight by the FAA. " This is wrong. You're blaming the aircraft builder is wrong. You need to get all the facts before you point a finger. They are built to the US ASTM standards that must be met to qualify for the special light sport certificate. You can only slightly blame the FAA, but more important the 150 person committee that made up the rules. This committee was staffed by EAA, AOPA and all the players in the flight community. These people made the rules and the FAA accepted them so long as they fell under the FAA regulations and under ASTM standards. You can't just modify certified aircraft either without approvals of some sort. That came with more than 75 years worth of trail and error. Light sport has been around since 2003 and way too many have put their aircraft into the ground because of poor judgement and maint. practices. And as much as I don't always like the rules with SLSA it does help protect dumb people from themselves and you can see in the experimental world that there has been no shortage of them. Someone always knows more than the factory engineer's, the millions of dollars spent, thousands of hours on a test bench with instruments, millions of flight hours run, but the idiot next door that has nothing nor the education to back it up always thinks they know more. There are reasons for many things even if an owner doesn't know why. Their problem is they're not bright enough to research and find out why. I see more than enough dumb things done on experimental's and some I won't touch. http://www.aviationconsumer.com/issues/50_8/safety/LSA-Accident-Review-Nothing-to-Celebrate_7228-1.html
  11. 1 point
    That looks weird...I ordered a new bowl about 18 months ago, and the pins were slightly below the rim of the bowl, not *way* up high like that. Are they loose at all?
  12. 1 point
    Goodness, you are in a hornet's nest of CT's around there. I'm in Goodyear if that's close enough and of course there is one in Kingman and people in Deer Valley, Cotton and Prescott to name a few. Just troll the posts and you will see their locales, have fun.
  13. 1 point
    Except for some. David It is better to use manifold pressure for power setting. 100% is max. cruise power about 35" map. 115% is take off power about 40" map. I use economy cruise setting of 31" map. This is about 2/3 throttle lever and select 5000 rpm. The figures are in the Rotax manual. Dunno if this answers your question.
  14. 1 point
    hello everyone, I recently discovered a new propeller . The E-Props. This propeller is already well accepted in Europe on Flight Design models and the French CT distributor have them installed on CTs directly from FD factory. This is a ground ajustable propeller that is of ''aero-elastic'' type. it is LIGHT, has very LOW INERTIA and ... and...AND... contrary to the ''others'' ... let you have these RPM on take-off/climb . Usually.....in order to have the 5600 rpm at full throttle (level flight), we don't get much more that 5000 static and 5200 on climb....right ? with the E-props.... 5600 static/ 5400 climb // 5600 full power . the web site is VERY descriptive , so, here it is : www.e-props.aero http://www.e-props.fr/16/customersA.php see report # 35 and #59 for CT specific but same for others Myself, I recently installed one on a plane similar to CT, (see picture) composite, high wing, strutless.... and the 'numbers' are the one described above. so, for the E-LSA owners among you.....that's you next prop for the S-LSA that shoudn't a probelm as it's already approved from the factory The model for the CT SW / LS is the Durandal 100 M ( or M-L ) depending of clearance ( tires sizes) http://www.e-props.fr/16/durandal100A.php enjoy the reading
  15. 1 point
    Very disappointed Ed. Where are those pictures? . . . ??? Sorry to hear about the broken rib. Get well soon!
  16. 1 point
    This is a very interesting video, starting with a P-51 engine out off-airport landing, and the going into a detailed discussion with the pilot of the event, and emergency response in general. https://youtu.be/BBpqvPujZgM
  17. 1 point
    You've spent a lot of time and take risks to get these shots. Glad to see your unique and beautiful photos are getting published.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Hi Guys, I've just had to replace one of my CTSW undercarriage legs and thought that other owners may be interested in how to do this and some detail in getting the holes drilled accurately! Here in the UK, we have a mandatory 300 hour inspection of the undercarriage legs (Service Bulletin CT145) and my 2006, 890 hour CTSW with over 1,000 landings had its third inspection done this week. This entailed raising the main gear a few inches off the deck using a homemade raising gadget! Then the spats and brake lines were removed, brake fluid drained and axle/wheel assemblies removed. The leg fairings were then slid off and then the legs were unbolted from the 'plane. Non-destructive testing was done by employing special chemical penetrant dyes and UV light. The only areas tested were in & around the main centre hole and around the 'waist' at the top of the leg just below the thicker part that goes up inside the top bracket. Unfortunately, the port leg on my 'plane had a very tiny crack just inside the aft edge of the centre hole which was only visible with a x100 jeweller's loup. The leg was rolled on a propeller balancing rig and was found to be dead straight but a crack is a crack. The crack was absolutely minuscule but my engineering inspector said that cracks only get bigger and are always a possibility on a metal item subject to repeated bending loads. Anyway, he had a new replacement leg in stock and proceeded to fit it. The new leg only comes with the centre hole already pre-drilled. Another modification we have in the UK is to peen the edges of the main attachment hole thus leaving residual compression stress at the hole edges intended to suppress fatigue crack initiation (Mod 309). As this wasn't done on my factory fitted original legs, the 'old' starboard leg and new port leg had this engineering process applied. First, the new leg was fitted and the (new) M6 centre bolt tightened up together with the cover plate and its four (new) bolts. Then a custom made centre-punch tool was fitted into the white bracket's top and bottom mounting holes and hit with a hammer to make an indentation on the new leg for drilling. This custom made tool is a short steel dowel with a very small hardened point in its centre. The tool sits snugly in the white bracket's hole(s) so that the tiny raised point is exactly in the centre of the hole. The leg was then removed and drilled from both sides just slightly undersize. It was then re-fitted and the top hole reamed out and a new nut, bolt and washers fitted. The correct drilling of the bottom hole is critical so that the aircraft not only sits level but the wheel tracks correctly. First, ensure the tyres are exactly the same pressure and the same amount of fuel is in each wing. Then slide the complete axle and wheel assembly onto the new leg and just nip up the pinch bolt. Lower the 'plane onto its wheels and roll it backwards and forwards a few yards to settle it. Then accurately measure the height from the floor to the base of the last aileron bracket on both wings. You must have a flat workshop floor for this!! You may have to raise the 'plane, loosen the pinch bolt and 'wiggle' the wheel assembly up/down the leg a few times and repeat the above before you get exactly the same floor-to-height measurements on both wings' brackets. Once you have the same heights, scribe a faint line along the top of the white bracket onto the leg as a reference. Now we needed to adjust the tracking. We assumed that because the tyre wear on the starboard leg was very even, we would use that side as a datum to set the port wheel. With the 'plane on the ground and the undercarriage legs fully assembled and tightened (but with the the new leg's wheel assembly just pinched up), we first checked that the stabilator was exactly level using a digital level and measuring from the rear corners to the ground. It was! Then we put some masking tape along the leading edges of the stabilator. Using a laser level held against two of the brake disc mounting bolts on the starboard side wheel, we rotated the wheel until the laser beam 'hit' the masking tape and we then marked this spot with a felt pen. We rotated the wheel and used all the disc mounting bolts to check that it hit the same spot. It did! My Marco wheel must have been a good one!!!! Next, we measured the distance of the felt pen mark from the fuselage on the starboard side and made a similar mark on the masking tape on the port side of the stabilator. We then held the laser level against the port side brake disc mounting bolts and rotated the wheel to see where the laser dot hit the masking tape. It was off to one side of the mark so we loosened the pinch bolt and carefully twisted the wheel assembly on the leg until we got the laser dot to hit the mark - checking that we still had our scribed line in the right place and hadn't accidentally moved the wheel assembly up or down the leg! Now, at last, we were ready to drill the bottom hole in the new leg using the same technique as we used for the top hole. The rest is just a matter of reassembly and brake bleeding. For this, we used a big large diameter hypodermic syringe bought off eBay to pump the brake fluid in through the bleed nipples and up into the brake fluid reservoir to which we fitted a piece of tubing going into an empty container. I'm sorry I haven't got any photos but I hope the explanation above might help someone in the future who has to do this job.
  20. 1 point
    Congratulations! Your photos are always terrific. We appreciate your sharing with us.
  21. 1 point
    Incredible. Love the pictures!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    The reason the new floats have the inner brass guide cut back compared to the older style where the brass guide was longer is because the new floats weighed too much. Cutting back the brass guide saved weight.
  25. 0 points
    3 Hours of Transition Training Completed... observations: (These notes are more for people like me, the FD beginners among us) The first one hour session was a solid introduction to the CTLSi and my alleged flying skills...; )… I am a low time pilot so still in the gee whiz stage. This I will say, I am absolutely hooked on the 3 screen Dynon. Going back to Steam Gauges would be like abandoning Netflix and firing up the VHS. In addition to the coolness and fun factors... the avionics build a significant safety margin into the experience. ADSB in/out is one of the best Government regulations inventions to come along since the GI Bill. The ability to "See" traffic is awesome. My landings were of the C- variety, however, I thought the CTLS landing gear was super strong and the plane "fixed" a bunch of my approach mistakes after we hit the ground. Second session was today... 2 hours. Two things I did pre-flight -- 1) I prepared myself with a knee board matrix of speeds and flap settings on take off and landing (d-wind, base, final, etc.), and, 2) I learned a great trick lifted from the FD manual regarding the centering of the nose sight line... in a C172, one finds the end of the propeller spinner, bingo, that's the center. The frontal visibility is so excellent on the FD, there is nothing to obstruct the frontal views... nothing. Good for seeing things, bad for getting a bead on where the middle of the runway is... alas, the FD manual suggests creating a vertical line up from the right hand side of the outboard pedal to the windshield... so, when I jumped in the plane today, I drew my imaginary line up from the pedal and as luck would have it, there is a screw near the top of the dashboard. That screw was my"prop spinner". Done, no more problems, I was on the center line for the rest of the day. I read articles about this alleged "CT Problem, i.e. nose centering"... If I can get the center dialed in within 10 seconds, anyone can. Before the flight, 2 other CT owners showed up. One guy just bought his CTLS... after his first CTSW was crushed in a hangar collapse. He told me he wouldn't buy anything else and he has owned several models of airplanes. The 2nd CT owner flew in from New Hampshire to install a new ADSB antenna. We had a great time talking about the airplane. I asked about cross wind landings and evidently they are a non event in the CT. Today the wind was calm so we didn't have any cross wind action... I am looking forward to getting some soon. I used my speeds/flap angles kneeboard matrix for many TO's and Landings today. Glad I did... They say that good golf is all about a solid consistent stance. Achieving a standard landing and t.o. approach is a good platform for everything else. I dialed in a standard approach during the flight and my landings and t.o.'s forcing me to fly with more control. Today's performance was definitely a "B". The plane is amazingly agile and sensitive. We ( "I"..; ) had only one "bad" landing, I did the dreaded stall drop and to my relief the landing was anti-climactic. Almost Cub-like. Note, I have the "Tundra" tires, perhaps they helped? Anyway, suffice, the CT lands with a level of forgiveness found in the trainers I have flown in. No big deal. Finally... on our way out of the practice airport, I wanted to see if the fuel injected Rotax really does sip fuel... the winds were light, and we dropped the RPM down to 4,300... and the plane was flying at a solid 90-92 Knots. The Gals per hour were 2.9 during this test. Amazing. I wanted an economical airplane and it really is. I forgot to the do the cruise and WOT tests, will do that next time. In short, I love this plane, it is easy to see why it is a big seller. It is comfortable, fast (for its class), the panel is out of this world amazing, the fuel mileage is outstanding, the seats are comfortable, the visibility is great and the "Perils (landing and sight line)" found on the internet are not perils at all if one is properly trained. Thus far, the FD Dealer has addressed all in the training syllabus and my training is working... I am gaining confidence that I can fly a high performance airplane. I have MUCH to learn... over and out. Andrew
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