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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/20/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Here's an attempt with the 14,000'+ White Mountains in the foreground
  2. 2 points
  3. 1 point
    Yours is acting like mine did. Most often when the modules fail, they won't warm start without ice. Mine was opposite, and wouldn't cold start without heat. Since you are having cold start issues, before the ice trick I would try hitting the modules with a heat gun on low or hair dryer for 30 seconds. If that doesn't do it go to the ice. If it is modules, fingers crossed it's just one bad one.
  4. 1 point
    Firefighting ops at Mammoth Yosemite
  5. 1 point
    Decalin. What is it and why use it. http://www.materials-base.com/product/decalin-runup-fuel-additive
  6. 1 point
    Looking down at the people on the summit of Mt Whitney
  7. 1 point
    And kudzu. Lots of kudzu
  8. 1 point
    When I put on my new door seal many years ago on my SW the door was hard to close and it had that front gap up on the leading front edge of the door that let cold air in. I unscrewed the door hinges and just relocated the screw holes out just a tad and forward. The door plate in the top frame has a steel strip in it. So I put some JB Weld in the old holes. Tapped the new holes and my door was then a perfect fit. No more leaky air and easy to close.
  9. 1 point
    I made some hangars a few years ago. I posted these pics a while ago too. The spar pins work well but by hanging on the bulkhead, the headsets remain out of the way and prevent one from pulling the headsets off of the spar pins when you enter/exit the cockpit.
  10. 1 point
    I have 2 SW's in the shop, and they are both a few inches above the bottom of door cylinder on the back edge. That is the only place I have seen the joint.
  11. 1 point
    Actually I think they are built to ASTM standards, and have a airworthiness certificate in the special light sport category. If they are true public use the FAR's don't apply to them like they do the rest of us.
  12. 1 point
    I smell a new generation of LSA's with a Rotax 915iS Turbo powering them... How exciting.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Too bad they didn't come with a header tank. Seems that would solve the issue. Since Andy is experimental maybe he could retrofit one and sell the kit to the rest of us who would have added incentive to go experimental.If it worked, I'd do it.
  15. 1 point
    Or pull the chute if not within glide to a safe place to land.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Use the white Bolus maxi 1" wide tape on top and bottom of the trim tab gaps. Put the stab in the full down position for the top tape application and full up position for the bottom tape. Over lap the center lower rivet about 1/2 way as a guide across the entire gap of the stab. Then take a razor blade and remove that small bit left on that single rivet. The whole job should take about 15-20 minutes. This way the tape does not get stretched and broken over time. Mine usually last 2 years and others I do about the same. Lay the tape down and don't stretch it. same with the wing root tape. lay it down and don't stretch it. Over lap a second piece of tape on the leading edge about 10" so the front gap is doubled. this will keep the wind from splitting it. This should last 2 years too. I haven't seen any of the new style door trim tearing because it is a solid one piece mold. The old stuff was two pieces glued together and it did come apart from sliding over it. Mine has been on for years and so has the others at my field. Somethings wrong if this new stuff is tearing.