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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/2018 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Hi Rodney, "The really nice part of the larger tube is that you can now idle your engine down to about 1350 or 1400 with no shake rattle, n roll." The gearbox and other engine components wear at low rpms comes from the 11: 1 compression and that can't be changed. No different than running any high compression engine below a specific rpm. This is why the 912UL at 9:1 has no issues at lower rpms. Get the rpm too low and the thing wears internally and many see this when and engine feels like it's running rough. The build of the engine vs today's newer engines will have more issues. They use a little older technology to keep the engine small and light. There are reasons engine companies set minimum idle rpms which may not be obvious to the users. Unless you were part of the design, build and test phase and with more than 5 million run hours I think it would be hard to second guess all their reasons and design specs. Just because you can't hear it or see it with one test doesn't mean something isn't going on.
  2. 2 points
    To answer your original question - No - a larger tube does not eliminate the need for a carb balance. I still balance my carbs at annual, and usually check it one other time during the year, if needed. I've had my rotax for three years now, and once I got it balanced, I really never have had an significant unbalance issue. Knock on wood I guess. The larger tube is acting like a dynamic absorber between the carbs at low rpm's. It is absorbing pressure pulses between the cylinders at low speed. As noted, above 3000 rpm, the larger crossover tube has no effect. The really nice part of the larger tube is that you can now idle your engine down to about 1350 or 1400 with no shake rattle, n roll. And, if you install the larger crossover tube, don't let anyone tell you it will tear your gearbox apart. I have measured the vibration coming from the gearbox at 1350 rpm and it is .08 inches/second velocity - which is excellent! My engine currently is balanced to .03 in/sec at 5350 rpm, which is where I cruise. As to the reason that Rotax doesn't change the crossover tube - who knows - believe it or not, that just may not be a significant issue for them. The simple fix is to tell all of us to idle at 1800-2000 rpm, and it kinda goes away. Problem solved. No cost to Rotax. I have sat in engineering meetings where a supposed expert convinced our lead engineer to perform a certain procedure . Several of us on the staff tried to convince him not to do this, but our lead engineer had a rather enlarged ego. It ended up costing our company in excess of $300,000.00. No kidding. Look, these engineers are just people like you and me. Some really are smart, but some are incredibly dumb too. They should have stayed at the university and taught. LOL How many automotive recalls have you read about in your life?? Hey - those vehicles were built by engineers. I'm not down on people who decide to become engineers. But, please, they are not infallible. And just because Rotax did not put a larger crossover tube on the engine does not mean that it coulld not benefit from one. Sorry for the long post - I really hope this does address your original question. Regards Rodney
  3. 1 point
    Yeah, a lot depends on how much you like your wife...
  4. 1 point
    Just remind her like I tell my wife. She spoke and signed an oath in the begining. "Until death do us part". Now she seems more worried. LOL
  5. 1 point
    IMHO. From a flying perspective: * You can fly more types of aircraft if you're flying under SP * No material difference if you're flying under BasicMed or 3rd Class medical If you only really fly your own LSA (like me), then this probably won't impact you at all. You might be able to increase MTOW at some point but this may not make a difference to you given the age of your plane puts it before the porking up period of S-LSA. Also, your plane is well down the depreciation curve so I would not expect your resale value to take much of hit either.
  6. 1 point
    Who's going to Bryce Canyon? Who's going to Page? Is there a LIST of people that are going to the 11th annual Fly-in? If not, can we start one? I am going to BOTH destinations... Who Else? I posted a separate thread about this a few days ago but did not get any responses. What time are people planning to arrive at Bryce? Do we have a Van there? Is there someone "in charge" with an itinerary or are we just Winging it, Pun intended.
  7. 1 point
    5350 is over pitched. Anything under 5500 is over pitched. There are NO redeeming qualities with an over pitched prop. You lose everything. Climb, cruise (cruise sped and top speed), fuel economy and higher engine temps. Set the prop pitch to achieve around 5600-5650 rpm at WOT at your AVERAGE altitude. This is the best balanced pitch setting for climb, cruise, fuel economy and engine temps. If you only see 5350 take 1 degree out of the pitch and try it.
  8. 1 point
    Flight Design has a new section of their website called ‘Stories.’ I wrote about our New York to Seattle trip here. https://flightdesign.com/stories The flight home was done solo in a day and a half. 18 hours of flying, 96 gallons of fuel. Both trips were a blast.
  9. 1 point
    A few old CT fliers and wives hanging out at the Coyboy Corral restaurant (built in the 1800's) in Elsinore, UT for breakfast
  10. 1 point
    And as a veteran myself, my heartfelt thanks to your son for his service...and to you and his mother for being so supportive of him. My best to him and his family.
  11. 1 point
    It has been always my understanding that the stall speed increases in a banking turn only if you attempt to maintain altitude , in other words, load the wings. If I need to do some rather steep turns at low speeds , I feel quite safe as long as I don’t load wings ( descending turn ) - it feels quite natural, safe and intuitive to me.
  12. 1 point
    Wing loading doesn't really have anything do do with my point. In any airplane, with any wing loading, overbanking at slow speed will cause a turning stall. If you are a little uncoordinated at the time and you have enough stick in it, you are now into a snap spin at low altitude (probably <400ft in a CT when making the base-to-final turn). I stand by my statement that steep turns at less than 500ft AGL and at approach speeds can be dangerous. Can experience tell you how close you can cut the margins? Sure. But as I said, the 30° rule is to protect new pilots from performing "stupid pilot tricks". I will also state that if you need more than a 30° bank angle to get back on centerline in time to land, then go around for the love of God.
  13. 1 point
    Hey all... Since I removed the 496 from my panel I lost XM weather. I wanted to have some weather capability for the upcoming Page trip, and until I make the move to full ADS-B. I bought a Stratux RXWX to give me ADS-B weather and limited traffic; for $200 it's hard to go wrong. I was trying to figure out how to mount it, and I think I found a great spot. I made a bracket out of thin sheet aluminum, and drilled holes to allow it to mount to the top two screws of the compass mount. The Stratux mounts to the bracket by making holes to mount to two of the six screws that hold the Stratux case together. The mount is out of the way, does not obstruct vision, and the antennae have a great view of the sky. I was getting traffic on the ground and ADS-B tower signals well before pattern altitude. I was a little concerned about heat tucked up under the windshield, but it doesn't seem to be an issue. I tested on a 90°F day, and according to the status wifi page, it never got above 59°C, and it has an operating limit to 111°C. I can make a little sun shield for it if heat turns out to hurt it. It does have a temperature-activated fan in the unit. The Stratux comes with a battery pack that straps to the bottom of the unit, and with that in place the unit is too thick and would rub on the windshield (and there would be no good way to mount to my fabricated bracket). I was going to mount the battery beside the unit to the bar (as seen in first pic below), but I found that the vendor was "mistaken" when they said the battery would do pass through battery charging & powering of the Stratux. The unit would be on fine as long as the battery was connected, but would shut off the instant that a cable was connected to the battery to charge it. I decided to forego the battery and just power via the 12V socket. I ran the charging cable up to the unit along the A pillar and along the bar using some stick-on cable management bits and zip ties. I might figure something more elegant later, but this works great, it's out of the way, and it comes on with the master switch. If I want it off for some reason I can just reach up and pluck the cable from the unit. This will work very well until I end up with a full uAvionix (my preference), Garmin, or whatever solution sometime in the next 12 months.
  14. 1 point
    If it's not wired correctly, the pass through will not work. It calls for a very specific pinout in the installation manual. Pin 1 is ground. Verify that you have continuity from pin 1 to the battery negative, and make sure the pin is seated and not loose in the connector. If you have continuity (good, clean continuity) and it doesn't work, you need to send the unit in for repair.
  15. 1 point
    Just saw this. I stay fairly busy, except for some weekends, but could probably make something work. I am on the far west side of Mississippi, in Cleveland, so it will probably be around a 4 hour drive.
  16. 1 point
    Clean the outside coating flake off and keep using them. The outside coating has nothing to do with their floating or fuel absorption. I have been cleaning the flake off for almost 20 years without any issues. You could take a key and poke a bunch of dents in the float and it wouldn't make any difference. The hundreds of thousands of tiny bubbles that make up the float are all self sealed. So a damaged bubble does not affect the bubble next to it.
  17. 1 point
    I’m in Nashville, should you want to come this far.
  18. 1 point
    I cant speak for him and dont know how far a drive it is - but I just sold my CTLS to a friendly guy in Northern Mississippi. He is garrettgee2001 on this forum.
  19. 1 point
    $800 for the pair. Just purchase a full cow hide (approximately 55 sqft) in the color you want. Take it to a auto upholstery shop.
  20. 1 point
    CTLSi 413L is equipped with 10 inch sky view. it has been fItted with Dynon 2020 unit that cost $609.00, just plugs in, mounted easy, and works well. CTLS 413F also it being fitted with same Dynon 2020 unit after the 10 inch display returns from Washington. A couple of weeks ago it failed to boot up and has been sent off for repair. ADSB Unit is not very big or heavy. Log book entry required as well as professional install. Waiting for TSO on Uavionix tail unit for both Cessna’s. See some of you folks at Page next month🙂. Farmer
  21. 1 point
    I had mine done back in 2010 and my hangar mate with a CT did to. It does make a difference. I got grey and he got red. He finished all the leather in the cockpit red. Came out really nice. I bought a cow hide (your choice of colors) and took it to a classic car upholstery shop. With the price of the hide and the labor the seats cost me $800. Being lift up in an LS is good because you sit lower anyway. If you made a seat for an SW as thick as the one in the picture it puts you up above the spar box. Mine were 2" and I'm 6'1". My head was just a tad above the box, but did not interfere with anything. It wouldn't cost FD Mfg to have a better seat when it's being Mfg'ed. It does a better job of spreading the weight across the entire seat with a tad of padding. FD LS seats are hard.
  22. 1 point
    Few ever wear the rotor out under normal use. If you're replacing pads a lot sooner than everyone else on a regular basis then maybe.
  23. 1 point
    If your calipers are aluminum in color they are Marc Ingegno brakes. If the caliper is gold in color they are Matco's.
  24. 1 point
    Most common cause as Andy said. Thin pads. It lets the piston come out too far and cocks to the side instead of retreating back into the caliper. You can release it with a flat tip screwdriver, but it will happen again. replace the pads. If the brakes are pretty old you can clean them. You can pull the caliper. Use a little pressured air to blow the piston out. Then use a scotchbrite pad to clean the piston's outer surfaces and then the calipers inner surface. You can replace the piston "O" ring at this time. Smear some 5606 brake fluid on the caliper inner surface, The "O" ring and the piston outer surface and then just slide it all the way back in place. replace the caliper and brake line then flush the system.
  25. -1 points
    Well . . . all of you could live in Florida! . . .
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