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tennesseect

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About tennesseect

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    Jr. Crew Member

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  • Location
    Nashville, TN
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    Male

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  1. 10th Annual Page CT and Light Sport Fly-in

    Ted & Martha Carlson are planning to fly out again from Tennessee.
  2. 9th Annual Page, AZ CT and Light Sport Fly-In

    Ted & Martha Carlson have made reservations for Oct 12 - 16. CTsw N536CT 615-495-1445
  3. My co-owner, Chad, and his wife were landing at Panama City Beach this past Wednesday after flying our CTsw down from Tennessee when the engine quit on final just as they passed over the runway threshold. After a quick attempt at a restart they thankfully made an uneventful landing and rolled to a stop. The engine would not start to taxi off the runway even though there were about 4.5 gallons of fuel remaining - all in the right wing. Fuel ran freely out the sump drain when Chad checked, but the engine still would not start until the plane was towed to the ramp and the left wing tank was refueled. A technician checked the tank vent tubes and the engine's fuel plumbing but found nothing amiss. Chad did an extended run-up followed by a solo trip around the pattern before they headed home today. Chad encountered no further problems getting home but observed again that 14 gallons were used from the left tank and only 3 from the right. The winds at altitude were light and variable, requiring no rudder or aileron trim - the ball of the turn indicator stayed pretty much centered. How many others have encountered a similar issue? Ted Carlson
  4. My 2007 CTsw's right aileron has unsightly water damage. Does anyone know who might have a salvageable aileron they would sell me?
  5. Yippee! I removed the tape around the wings and the noise is GONE! Thanks to all of you. Ted
  6. OK, thanks a lot guys. I'll remove the tape from the wing root and re-tape the trim tab and see if that works.
  7. Somehow I don't think that's it - but of course I'll check. Whistling is probably the wrong word to describe the sound. It's more of a high frequency vibration, like something barely touching against a running motor. However the frequency doesn't seem to correspond with engine RPM, but stays constant with only the loudness varying with airspeed.
  8. A whistling noise has developed in my '07 CTsw over the past few months whenever I go above about 105 kts. It sounds kind of like a banjo string vibrating in the wind. The noise varies somewhat with changes in angle of attack. Anyone had this problem? Damaged gap tape around the wings was suggested as a cause but the tape looks to be intact - slightly sunken in, but no holes through it. I checked for something that might be rubbing or chafing the inside of the cowling but found nothing. I even removed the tie-wraps around the air filter and added a few extra tie-wraps to secure wiring that might vibrate - but no help.
  9. Hole in muffler

    I have attempted to attach a picture I took today of my muffler. I hope it is visible.
  10. Hole in muffler

    My 07 CTsw slowly got noisier over the past few months and then got real loud. When I opened the cowling I found a chunk of metal - about 2" X 6" - missing from the front right of the muffler. My wife and I flew it 40 miles home. There were no abnormal instrument readings other than a somewhat lower than normal left cylinder head temp. Is this normal wear and tear? Do I just replace the muffler or is there something else I should check?
  11. Hobbs

    Tom, I believe I can answer your question about why the ALT light doesn't stay on when the rectifier switches the Hobbs into the circuit by drawing on my memory of basic electronics from the Air Force. The reason is because of the much lower resistance of the bulb compared to the Hobbs. Direct current follows Ohms law (Volts = Current X Resistance), behaving like water flowing through a hose: Water pressure is like voltage, the water flow rate is like amperage and pinched places in the hose are like load resistors. Think of a hose with two pinched places - one just slightly pinched (the bulb) and the other very nearly choking off the hose (the Hobbs). The water pressure drops drastically as it passes through the Hobbs but only very slightly through the bulb. These drops in water pressure are analogous to the voltage drops across the bulb and Hobbs. The same current passes through both the bulb and Hobbs and its value depends on the total circuit resistance and the applied voltage. If the Hobbs has ten times the resistance of the bulb then much less current flows when the Hobbs is added into the circuit and only about a tenth of the applied voltage is dropped across the bulb. A 12v bulb that glows brightly when it's the only circuit resistance will fade out when the current drops precipitously. So Flight Design picked a bulb with the right filament characteristics so that it glows when it's the only circuit element but doesn't get hot enough to glow when the Hobbs resistance is added into the circuit. Does that make sense?
  12. Hobbs

    OK, after talking with Aaron at Lockwood I finally have a good description of how the ALT / Hobbs circuit works on my 2007 CTsw. Here it is in case anyone else is wondering: Rectifier pin 6 supplies 12v to the ALT bulb whenever the master switch is on. Pin 5 provides a ground for the bulb, BUT ONLY WHEN THE RECTIFIER IS NOT CHARGING. And a wire is bridged onto the pin 5 side of the bulb to supply power to the Hobbs. With the master ON, but with the engine not running, current flows from pin 6 to pin 5 of the rectifier through the bulb. This low resistance path effectively shunts most of the current away from the Hobbs so it won't run. But when the engine starts and the rectifier starts charging, the ground at pin 5 goes away and the only path for current is through the bulb and the Hobbs back to ground - so the Hobbs starts running. And that is why the Hobbs won't run if the ALT bulb blows. Thankfully I have the EMS ammeter as a backup but I intend to begin verifying the ALT lamp works as part of my startup checklist.
  13. Hobbs

    Today I noticed that in addition to my Hobbs, my ALTERNATOR warning light doesn't illuminate when you switch on the master switches. Funny how I never noticed that before - I'd better add it to my start-up checklist. The bulb checked open with an ohmmeter. So I have a feeling when I replace the bulb the Hobbs will start working too! Thanks Tom Baker - for helping me determine the type. It's apparently not too common - a 12V, 0.1 amp with an E-10 screw-in base. I couldn't find one locally today. The Flight Design part # is C9997168.
  14. Hobbs

    Tom, you're saying that the 12V supply for the Hobbs comes from pin 5 of the rectifier and is in parallel with the ALT/GEN light - right? Therefore the Hobbs should run whenever the rectifier is putting out sufficient charging voltage AND the oil pressure switch closes and provides the ground - right?
  15. Hobbs

    Well today I did some checking on why my Hobbs isn't working. When I jumpered 12V from the battery directly to the terminals on the back of the Hobbs it starting clicking off time - so the meter itself works fine. Then I looked at the pressure switch down near the oil pump. I saw that it only has one wire lead. Since it is a normally-open switch I assume that wire would have to provide the ground that makes the Hobbs turn. So I disconnected the wire connector from the switch and jumpered it to the engine case. I turned on the battery master switch expecting the Hobbs to start turning. It did not! I deduced that the switch isn't the problem either. So... I conclude there either is another switch (perhaps in the 12V supply?) that isn't closing or a wire is broken. I neglected to verify that 12V is getting to the Hobbs when the BATT master switch is on. That's my next troubleshooting step. If I find no 12V at the Hobbs is that because there shouldn't be until the engine starts or should I suspect my Regulator/Rectifier - as discussed above? I'm afraid to open up the panel to check connections while the engine's running. Is that necessary?
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