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About Anticept

  • Rank
    What's that red blinking light for?
  • Birthday 10/25/1986

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  • Location
    Columbus, Ohio
  • Interests
    Flying and fixing
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  1. Original SBS8/PC310 battery box doesn't even register on my scale. It's probably less than 2 ounces.
  2. Avgas vapor pressure is 7psi (14.25 inhg). Mogas can be as high as 14psi, and as low as 8. It's for this reason that I think the issues are vapor related, because it's only brief that it happens. Old cars had problems with vapor lock until fuel pumps got installed in fuel tanks. In addition, I think there is a gas bubble that gets trapped in the fuel pump even during normal operations. It isn't until the engine cools down, or that there is a call for a LOT of power that the bubble is cycled. I can even do a full power run at runup and still get the issue to crop up. The old pumps (and I mean OLD pumps, pre-2010) never had these issues.
  3. Dental floss breaks easily. Fishing wire is your best bet. Wrap the end around dowel rods for leverage.
  4. I am replacing my battery and battery box. I'll weight it for you, but it won't be until next weekend.
  5. Throw in a gallon of avgas for every 10 or so gallons if it annoys you. It will raise the vapor pressure enough to eliminate the problem. There is a rotax service bulletin on this stating that the fluxuations are allowable for around 5 seconds; with the software smoothing on dynons, i find around 10 seconds are allowable.
  6. It's vapor getting purged. Vapor doesn't like to move unless a lot of fuel is flowing, and the moment it hits the carbs, they're suddenly going to vent at velocity. Your pressure will drop and your fuel flow will rise, then all will go back to normal. The vapor sits in the fuel pump, I suspect, since that is where the heat will get to the fuel most easily.
  7. Head pressure, which is dictated by the vertical column height of the fluid, and fluid flow restrictions, are what matters for considering which will drain faster. How you get that level difference doesn't matter. If the top of the fluid level in one tank sits slightly higher than the other tank, then the tank with the higher fluid level is going to drain faster until they equalize. If you got there by filling one tank more than the other, or are flying with one wing low, it's the same thing for fuel draining. A tank with different geometry won't change that, not by itself anyways. It will drain until the fluid level is level with the other tank, and then they will drain equally... Even if one tank were a 10 foot high, 1 inch round tube and the other were a 10 foot wide, 1 inch high tank, the tall one will drain until equalized, then drain equally in regards to height with the wide tank.
  8. That's why he won't approve an MRA for them, he flat out said it's not appropriate for all the flight testing that is required as part of the process that I'll have to be doing. I don't expect much, but he did say, the "no" is not a "fuck off", it's a "You're on your own, we'll do what we can, let us know how it turns out."
  9. I don't know why you have such bad experiences with them so often 😛. They've been super accommodating for me on just about everything. Usually, wording mistakes are just stemming from a little bit of sloppiness rather than any kind of malice or kneejerk reaction. The VG research with OSU is the first time I've ever gotten a flat out "no" from them, but even then, Tom said it would be better to use the R&D category because that's what it's meant for, and he'll provide any information that he's at liberty to in support of this.
  10. I would definately ask to have the language changed to scaling or calculating required. Even just saying "Revise Weight and Balance using methods described in FAA AC 43.13" would be fine. Weighing an aircraft is a relatively lengthy endeavor, requires a hangar with still air, and calibrated scales.
  11. May I ask why this requires weighing instead of just calculating?
  12. Wholly agree, but I have myself run into very old teflon. Still strong, but stiff. Barbed fittings + clamps is what I mean when I say avoid. Barbed fittings aren't supposed to be used with clamps, that's what beaded fittings are meant to be used with. When you say AN fitting, are you referring to the compression type that uses an internal tool to lock the insert during the first part of installation? Or some variation of that? Those are fantastic, but yowza they are expensive!
  13. You might be able to exchange it and get the approval! If you don't ask, you don't get!
  14. The teflon is easily cut. Barbs and worm drive clamps will actually shred it. That's why the fittings on the hoses to the carbs are the way they are. Crimp on connectors are a good bet, but there might be other solutions out there, the hose manufacturers will have recommendations. Teflon hoses do have a very, very long life, but I should mention: they become hard over time. They're still functional even when hard, but they also become brittle and will break if you bend them too much after that.
  15. A word of caution: teflon hoses need a different method of termination than rubber hoses to be reliable long term; use crimp on fittings or other teflon hose specific method. If you use the methods for rubber, the hose will very easily be damaged.
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