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About Anticept

  • Rank
    What's that red blinking light for?
  • Birthday 10/25/1986

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  • Location
    Columbus, Ohio
  • Interests
    Flying and fixing
  • Gender

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  1. Camguard

    FredG: MSDS doesn't show a complete list of ingredients. Oil is VERY complex. See the various types of additives and the purpose they serve. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive#Types_of_additives Also, I am not talking about minor formulation changes. I am talking about major ones. For years, oil for a rotax was quite experimental. Recommendations were based on field experience and best guess. Now, Rotax and Aeroshell spent a lot of money developing the formulas they have now. I understand your aversion to "follow what the priesthood says", but topics like this don't pop up because someone wants to experiment. They want to know what has been tested. They want to know what is safe so they don't have to spend 10,000 to fix an engine because of a bad guess. Aeroshell sport plus 4 is a KNOWN variable with a lot of history already in Rotax. People LIKE known and predictable variables. Doesn't preclude curiosities, but again, it's aviation, curiosity is expensive. The other oils have had a history of working as well. But we have far less support from the factory anymore if you chose to run a different oil. Could Rotax one day run its customers through the ringer in the name of profits? Sure. Would I love to experiment with alternatives? Of course. But paving the way to new frontiers is vey expensive and I don't know anyone on this forum willing to push the boundaries if there is a risk of a large bill.
  2. Parachute Recommendation

    Farmland is always rough. Try to land with the rows. But you still won't come out unscathed in many circumstances. The nose gear is the weak point on a CT field landing. If it digs in the slightest, you're going over. Try to keep it off the ground.
  3. Camguard

    Camguard isn't designed for rotax. That clutch is likely where the most havoc would be seen, which will cause other issues down the line. Aeroshell and rotax did a LOT of testing, and use the best formulation from those tests now. The issue with using the older oils is the formulas do change, and that accepted oil list list used to change after someone found out.
  4. Amps verses volts

    A big, huge help is to check voltage drop with all equipment running except the engine itself. When doing what I am telling you, you will need to test, write down the numbers, clean, test again. This way you can see if you are doing any improvements. On all power connections that you clean, use emery cloth or a dremel with a wire wheel. Spit shine those connections. You need to apply a thin layer of dielectric grease before reinstalling on the terminals only, don't goop up a bunch of the terminal screws. DO NOT APPLY DIELECTRIC GREASE TO DATA CARRYING CONDUCTORS. The procedure: Set a voltmeter to dc. Start with touching one of the tabs on the ground bus attached to the inside right firewall, and go to battery ground. You want this to be as low as possible. Hundredths of a volt preferred, but no more than a couple tenths. If you see more than that, clean the grounds and try to move any terminals grounding through the starter solenoid case to the same side to see if that brings it down. Lower voltage is better, it means better ground. If cleaning the terminals doesn't seem to work, you may need to crimp on new terminals or replace the wire with a larger gauge. Also, make sure that you sand off some of that anodizing under the bolt head that runs through the firewall and connects to the negative wire, and apply a very thin layer of dielectric. Next, test from the positive side of the battery to the input side of the ammeter shunt. That should be the left, but not always. The shunt has a very low resistance, the side which reads lower resistance to the battery positive is the input. Same thing, lower is better. Test from the input side of the shunt to the grounding bus. You will see 12v here. It should be relatively stable, preferably not swinging more than a tenth of a volt (stobes are noisy) but you will have to get a feel for this. Now test from engine to battery negative, clean and grease those connections too. If necessary, you can add a second grounding wire but it MUST be as large as the installed engine ground. I would prefer people install larger grounds rather than install a second one due to ground loops, but up to you. Unplug the voltage regulator, inspect for arcing burns or deformities, replace connectors if any found. Spray an electrical contact cleaner and let it set. For extra measure, you can test the charging coil resistance while you have this off if you want, but rotax coils are highly reliable and generally do not fail. Then apply dielectric grease and reconnect. Take a close look at your capacitor connections. Some are soldered. They should be clean beads. If they look dried out, resolder with extra flux. For push on connections, remove the connections, put your voltmeter on it until it gets close to zero. Switch to ohmmeter mode. You should see the resistance rise over time, this means the cap is working correctly. Use contact cleaner and dielectric grease before reconnecting. The connection should be tight. Remove the connector on the back of the EMS. Inspect for deformities. Spray with contact cleaner, let set. DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC GREASE. Reinstall. The EMS picks up its power from wires leading to the input side of the ammeter shunt. This must be done due to how electronic amplifiers work, or they will pick up noise. That connection is fused. If you want to, you can open the inline fuse container and clean it up too, but those arent really exposed to the air. The last place to consider is the back of the circuit breaker panel. FD really should have used a bus for this, but they chose to use jumper wires which are a pain. You can remove and clean up those terminals too, and check resistance across the circuit breaker with connections removed (should be zero resistance, no more than a few thousanths of an ohm) but this is a lot of effort. I would only do this if I thought there was a problem. This will clean up your system a lot. Regardless, rotax engines are very noisy due to the way the regulator rectifier is designed. You're going to see a little ammeter swing from the voltage pulses. A capacitor across the ammeter shunt input to ground might smooth that out but it seems unnecessary.
  5. Garmin 496 with xm weather not getting TFRs

    You can send the refresh signal online from their website once you register.
  6. Continued Use of Battery Charger?

    Many battery chargers do not float the voltage properly and don't keep them charged up.
  7. Garmin 496 with xm weather not getting TFRs

    You have an XM subscription right? Any problems with it? Does it indicate any issues communicating with the XM reciever? Also make sure you have updated the software on the unit to latest.
  8. Flaps Issue

    It's a big can. And yes it is extremely good grease.
  9. Flaps Issue

    http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/exxongreaseshc-100.php?clickkey=72641 This became my general purpose grease. It's designed for wheel bearings but also is allowed for general purpose use, including jack screws and slides I would not use it anywhere that super high pressure is required, such as places that call out for molybdenum grease. No place exists on most light aircraft. I found it to perform far better than aeroshell 5 through 7. I do not know how it compares to 22 yet as I have not used it, but I do have a tube I wil be using soon. I used it in the nose gear assembly and recieved far fewer complaints even as time went on.
  10. Flaps Issue

    Also use a lower viscous grease. Something that has a high operating temp range while still being designed for jack screws and gears.
  11. Starts but won't STOP !? (CT2K)

    That was going to be my next suggestion after making sure the ignition is alright! It is an old engine, so I am not surprised.
  12. Starts but won't STOP !? (CT2K)

    Your ignition switch ground is bad in the off position. Check it for continuity to ground from the module connectors.
  13. Why you shouldn't just walk away from a buy...

    Thanks for the love Morden
  14. Maury: Either your potentiometer has failed on the flap actuator column, or the wires are shorting. Try to place a couple alligator clips to a voltmeter in DC mode on a pair of the wires to the potentiometer, or on the sense wires running up to the control board and run the flaps up and down. Repeat this clamping to 2 of each of the 3 wires until you have completed all combinations. Jiggle the wires around a little bit near the column. If you end up with a voltage reading near zero, the wires are shorted. A failed pot will spike the resistance. The pot detects flap position, and when failed, it will report incorrect values or cause errors in position sensing from out of range values. Replace, recalibrate, and it will work. I am writing off that the pot got turned because you aren't saying the flaps are in the wrong positions constantly. When you do replace it, set flaps to middle position (you might have to do it manually), and the pot to 5k before installing it. Then recalibrate.
  15. Why you shouldn't just walk away from a buy...

    When things aren't making sense; walk. That's the only time that I believe you can make a blanket statement. In your Mooney example: you did right, JohnnyBlackCT. I would have done the same. But, this topic is about not going to one extreme or the other. It's about my point of using care and caution. You can find your dream airplane in a hunk of junk if you really know what you are doing. What you think is a perfect airplane can hide some nasty things too. People are very creative at hiding problems, sometimes to the detriment of the rest of us. But for most people, my point is that if you're shopping for an airplane, do it for the right reasons and with the right kind of attitude. Take the time to do things carefully. rtk: nothing wrong with a trainer, just take a good hard look at landing gear areas. As you saw, you found a ripple. That's an automatic major strike, it's not cheap to fix. Will it be a problem down the road? Maybe, maybe not. It's not going to cause the front to fall off, but now it might be a weak point that will give out on a good hit later down the road.