Jump to content

gorilla

Members
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

About gorilla

  • Rank
    Jr. Crew Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    flying, motorcycling, skiing, playing the guitar (badly!)
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

1,275 profile views
  1. Hi Dave, the outline shape must be identical to the scanned images…. unfortunately! The two sides are not quite parallel with each other by a couple of degrees. As I said, the reference datum line seems to be the bottom edge as all the oblong switch holes are exactly square with that edge. when I put a 90 degree set square against the bottom edge, I think it was the left side that was square to it but the right hand side was just a fraction larger than 90 degrees. Unfortunately, whereas you guys in the States seem to have had good service from FDUSA when you asked for the panel .dxf files, FDEUROPE doesn’t seem so willing. I believe our UK agent has asked but didn’t get a reply. I appreciate your help. Thanks. Paul
  2. Thanks Andy, I'll give them a try. Hi Corey, I have to own up to making a schoolboy error. I was doing some tidying up of wiring after fitting my new avionics and I didn't disconnect the battery first. I disconnected a wire from the battery breaker thinking it was the switched wire, not the live wire. All of a sudden, I heard a small crackle followed by some smoke and realised that the wire was actually live and it had touched the back of the flap panel. The individual flap settings didn't work anymore and the printed circuit board had some tracks that looked cooked as were the two 220 micro farad capacitors. I replaced the two capacitors but only succeeded in getting the flaps to work with the switch in the manual position. I think I've learnt a very expensive lesson..................! Paul
  3. Hi Dave, Thanks very much. Please see attached the panel with a front and reverse view. Don't worry if it proves a bit difficult! The only reference datum is the bottom edge; all the switch and oblong holes are parallel or perpendicular to that edge. I think only one side is at 90 degrees to this bottom edge; the other one is slightly obtuse and the top edge is at its own weird angle too! Instrument Centre Panel - Reverse.pdfInstrument Centre Panel - Front.pdf
  4. Does anyone have a flap control panel looking for a good home? It's the one with the flap switch and LED display; not the little relay board attached to the firewall. My board says Version 3 on it although I think slightly later ones will still fit and work. However, the CTLS boards with the multipin plug and relays mounted to it will not fit. I'm in the UK but happy to do a bank transfer or PayPal, whatever suits. Paul
  5. Dave & Glenn, many thanks for your great advice! I'll let you know how I got on. Paul
  6. Hi Glenn, I opened up your .dxf file but was surprised to notice that it isn't quite the same as my centre panel - notwithstanding the slight misalignment of the holes which you mentioned.. I was wondering why my centre panel has the switches not parallel with the top of the panel (see the photo showing black panel on white background) and why the distance from the top edge of the panel to the bottom edge is slightly different on the left-hand side compared with the right-hand side. This is unlike your panel which shows everything parallel, square & symmetrical. . The Eureka moment was when I realised that the centre panel for a 'mushroom' binnacle with only 2 main panels (i.e. a UK version CTSW) is slightly different than the lower centre panel for a 3 main panel binnacle like you have in the States on SW's and LS's. Because the right-hand side of a 2 main panel binnacle is angled towards the pilot, this affects the positioning of the low centre switch panel. You can see from my colour photo that although the switches/breakers are parallel with the top of the 'tunnel', the top edge of the panel is not. So now I'm back to square 1 and am trying to obtain a .dxf file for a UK version CTSW centre panel!! I'm not a CAD expert but does anyone know if I can take my existing panel to a CAD expert who may have the machinery/software/skill to transfer the real object into a digital CAD file? Can this be done? Thanks. Paul
  7. Thanks guys for all your help and advice; much appreciated! Those panels look outstanding, Glenn. Is the lettering done by laser etching? Paul
  8. I have a UK version CTSW which has the 2 main instrument panels and the lower centre panel (made out of some kind of shiny aluminium) containing the breakers, switches, flap controls, etc. I want to redesign my centre panel and intend to get it routed out of 2mm pre-preg carbon fibre in order to match up with my two main panels. The pictures below show my current panel which someone gave me and the black panel is the original that I removed years ago! Does anyone have a CAD drawing of the centre panel that they can send my way, please? A .dxf file would be great but any other format is welcome! I'm not fussy if the positions/sizes of the switches don't match up with my layout as I intend to redesign things but having the main outline and shape digitally would be a good start. Many thanks. Paul
  9. Hi Darrell, With my 2006 UK CTSW on -12 flap and flying so that the ailerons are completely symmetrical, both ailerons are slightly higher than the edges of the flaps at the flap/aileron junction when viewed from inside the cockpit and flying at 100 knots. In solo flying mode, I find my aircraft rolls very, very slowly to the left. I counter this with a miniscule amount of pressure on the stick to the right - usually with my left thigh or I just use a gnat's whisker of right rudder every now and again to get back on track. In the UK, we do not have the luxury of an aileron trimmer! With a passenger, the aircraft tracks as straight as an arrow with the ailerons in that same symmetrical position.
  10. gorilla

    Flat Left Main Tire

    I remember practising an engine failure from 2000' and chose a little-used grass strip as my 'emergency field'. Engine was on idle the whole way down and when I came to the strip at the perfect height and position, I decided to actually land on it instead of powering up and climbing away. The strip had recently been cut and there were clumps of cut grass lying around all over it. I never for one moment thought that they would cause a problem but after touching down and rolling out, my CTSW suddenly veered over to the left and stopped at the edge of the strip despite me applying full right rudder/nose wheel. I initially thought I'd hit a rabbit hole and got a puncture but when I got out I saw that a clump of cut grass had got lodged inside the spat. The revolving wheel caused the spat to be wrenched off its inner mountings and then it simply revolved around the wheel axle mounting bolt and became wedged underneath the front of the tyre thus causing the wheel to abruptly jam and stop. The sad result was a busted spat, damaged leg fairing ................and dented pride. Moral of the story: always try and do a precautionary fly-by if intending to land at an unfamiliar airstrip - and beware of clumps of cut grass!
  11. Hi ibjet, The bike sits quite securely in the footwell and is strapped down really tightly using the seat belts. For some reason which I haven't worked out yet, the belts don't come loose when securing the bike; they are as tight when I land as when I started. But when a person is sitting in the seat, they always seem to work loose 🤔.
  12. I’ve also bought a foldable bike for my CTSW. I got fed up with flying somewhere to see a mate and then spending £50 on a taxi to get from the airfield to his house! The bike I have is a Brompton. They’re not cheap but fold down very small. I’ve also electrified it as I love cycling but hate hills...... The li-po battery sits in a Brompton bag that clips onto the front stem. This lives in the luggage compartment together with the seat (standard - not high back) which means I can put the seat in when I get to the destination airfield to take passengers flying. The seat is threaded through the opening in the rear cockpit wall. When the bag is clipped onto the mount it electrically connects through copper strips to the electric motor in the front wheel and the twist grip throttle & speed controller. I secure the bike thoroughlywuth the seat belts. It has to go in only one way so that the control column can’t touch the bike when move to its rearmost extremes.
  13. I forgot to add that having seen a number of CT's out there with slightly uneven wing levels (and pilots on this forum who have admitted that their aircraft don't sit exactly level), there's either a lot of folk having very heavy landings (!) or the undercarriage legs weren't fastidiously drilled correctly in the first place!
  14. The whole job took about 4 hours but in order to get a perfectly level aircraft and correct wheel tracking, it needs to be done properly! The hardest part was wiggling the hub assembly up and down the leg to get the level correct. It's a tight fit on the leg and we found that we had to clean out the inside of the tube with some fine emery paper wrapped around a piece of tubing in order to get it to move up and down the leg. A smear of ACF50 on the end of the leg helps too. The trouble is that FD don't seem to have a uniform way of mounting the hubs to the legs. My engineer has seen some undercarriage legs that have been inserted down inside the hub tube as far as they'll go (until they touch the horizontal hub tube which can be seen inside the slanting hub tube of the hub assembly) whilst others have only been inserted about 3/4 before the bottom hole was drilled. So this means that the new leg which has to be drilled, needs to be wiggled up/down the leg accordingly to get the aircraft level set correctly. Even if the leg on the other side of the aircraft was fully inserted into the hub tube before its hole was drilled, this doesn't automatically mean that the aircraft will be level if the new leg is also fully inserted. I'm not sure why this is but my engineer tells me that of the many legs he's done, it just doesn't work that way. Similarly, he says that measuring the distance of the bottom hole on the 'bent/cracked' leg whilst it is on the workbench and transferring this measurement across to the 'new' leg doesn't work either! You only get one chance to drill this hole in order to get the aircraft sitting level and the tyre tracking correct and unfortunately, there ain't no short cuts!
  15. Hi Guys, I've just had to replace one of my CTSW undercarriage legs and thought that other owners may be interested in how to do this and some detail in getting the holes drilled accurately! Here in the UK, we have a mandatory 300 hour inspection of the undercarriage legs (Service Bulletin CT145) and my 2006, 890 hour CTSW with over 1,000 landings had its third inspection done this week. This entailed raising the main gear a few inches off the deck using a homemade raising gadget! Then the spats and brake lines were removed, brake fluid drained and axle/wheel assemblies removed. The leg fairings were then slid off and then the legs were unbolted from the 'plane. Non-destructive testing was done by employing special chemical penetrant dyes and UV light. The only areas tested were in & around the main centre hole and around the 'waist' at the top of the leg just below the thicker part that goes up inside the top bracket. Unfortunately, the port leg on my 'plane had a very tiny crack just inside the aft edge of the centre hole which was only visible with a x100 jeweller's loup. The leg was rolled on a propeller balancing rig and was found to be dead straight but a crack is a crack. The crack was absolutely minuscule but my engineering inspector said that cracks only get bigger and are always a possibility on a metal item subject to repeated bending loads. Anyway, he had a new replacement leg in stock and proceeded to fit it. The new leg only comes with the centre hole already pre-drilled. Another modification we have in the UK is to peen the edges of the main attachment hole thus leaving residual compression stress at the hole edges intended to suppress fatigue crack initiation (Mod 309). As this wasn't done on my factory fitted original legs, the 'old' starboard leg and new port leg had this engineering process applied. First, the new leg was fitted and the (new) M6 centre bolt tightened up together with the cover plate and its four (new) bolts. Then a custom made centre-punch tool was fitted into the white bracket's top and bottom mounting holes and hit with a hammer to make an indentation on the new leg for drilling. This custom made tool is a short steel dowel with a very small hardened point in its centre. The tool sits snugly in the white bracket's hole(s) so that the tiny raised point is exactly in the centre of the hole. The leg was then removed and drilled from both sides just slightly undersize. It was then re-fitted and the top hole reamed out and a new nut, bolt and washers fitted. The correct drilling of the bottom hole is critical so that the aircraft not only sits level but the wheel tracks correctly. First, ensure the tyres are exactly the same pressure and the same amount of fuel is in each wing. Then slide the complete axle and wheel assembly onto the new leg and just nip up the pinch bolt. Lower the 'plane onto its wheels and roll it backwards and forwards a few yards to settle it. Then accurately measure the height from the floor to the base of the last aileron bracket on both wings. You must have a flat workshop floor for this!! You may have to raise the 'plane, loosen the pinch bolt and 'wiggle' the wheel assembly up/down the leg a few times and repeat the above before you get exactly the same floor-to-height measurements on both wings' brackets. Once you have the same heights, scribe a faint line along the top of the white bracket onto the leg as a reference. Now we needed to adjust the tracking. We assumed that because the tyre wear on the starboard leg was very even, we would use that side as a datum to set the port wheel. With the 'plane on the ground and the undercarriage legs fully assembled and tightened (but with the the new leg's wheel assembly just pinched up), we first checked that the stabilator was exactly level using a digital level and measuring from the rear corners to the ground. It was! Then we put some masking tape along the leading edges of the stabilator. Using a laser level held against two of the brake disc mounting bolts on the starboard side wheel, we rotated the wheel until the laser beam 'hit' the masking tape and we then marked this spot with a felt pen. We rotated the wheel and used all the disc mounting bolts to check that it hit the same spot. It did! My Marco wheel must have been a good one!!!! Next, we measured the distance of the felt pen mark from the fuselage on the starboard side and made a similar mark on the masking tape on the port side of the stabilator. We then held the laser level against the port side brake disc mounting bolts and rotated the wheel to see where the laser dot hit the masking tape. It was off to one side of the mark so we loosened the pinch bolt and carefully twisted the wheel assembly on the leg until we got the laser dot to hit the mark - checking that we still had our scribed line in the right place and hadn't accidentally moved the wheel assembly up or down the leg! Now, at last, we were ready to drill the bottom hole in the new leg using the same technique as we used for the top hole. The rest is just a matter of reassembly and brake bleeding. For this, we used a big large diameter hypodermic syringe bought off eBay to pump the brake fluid in through the bleed nipples and up into the brake fluid reservoir to which we fitted a piece of tubing going into an empty container. I'm sorry I haven't got any photos but I hope the explanation above might help someone in the future who has to do this job.
×
×
  • Create New...