Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About PauloSerra

  • Rank
    Jr. Crew Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    CT owner
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

1,316 profile views

    Please let me know if you have any question about the connections. It is very straightforward but the manual is not good. There is one 3-wire cable that shall be connected to the power source (two of them are wired together to the positive, the third one to ground) and a 2-wire cable to the Flydat (positive and ground).

    Hi, Mike You have understood correctly. I turn the switch on and the Flydat displays the Service message while I go through my check list. When I start the engine the Flydat does not reset any more and I do not see the Service message after starting the engine. The device keeps the voltage at the Flydat at 12 V during the engine start, even if the battery voltage drops.

    I have somehow solved the problem of the Service message showing up after starting the engine. I had already wired the Flydat to the main switch, but I still had the problem as the Flydat resets when I start the engine due to the drop in the voltage of the battery. This has been solved by a 12 V voltage stabilizer (http://www.caraudio-systems.de/ac-pwr-st_eng.html). This device is used on cars that have a "start-stop" system to avoid the radio (or other devices) turning off due to the voltage drop during the engine starts. I have installed it to ensure that the voltage feeding the Flydat does not drop when I start the engine and it works! Now the Flydat starts when I turn on the main switch (with the Service message) but it keeps working when I start the engine.

    Hi, I am one of (few) CT owners in Brazil. My aircraft is perfect except for the (old model) Flydat which shows the "Service" message instead of engine information just after starting the engine. I have tried to locate someone in Brazil to reset it but only got a response from BRP informing that this type of engine (or parts) is not sold in Brazil. Given that flying the aircraft (or sending the unit) to USA is practically impossible, I am looking for any alternative (hacking the RS-232 communications, purchasing a Flydat Control unit, etc) with no success for the moment. I hope you have succeeded in replacing your Flydat with the Dynon but I wonder if you would be interested in selling the failed Flydat (and sending it to Brazil) as it may be useful in my quest to repair or hack my unit. Is your Flydat an old (without the reset button) or new model?
  5. Door lock problem

    I could not find hinges with no holes, but I was lucky enough to buy some where the spacing between the first and last holes were 3 mm smaller from the ones on the CT, so that I could use the right hole on one side and the left hole on the other. The other two holes were extended to the side. The result was that I had one hole on each part to serve as guide. For information, the hinges are stainless steel and costs around 40 cents a piece. In case I made a mistake, the loss would be minor and I could always keep the things as before.
  6. Door lock problem

    Hi, I have decided to drill the hinges instead of the frame. It is true that it is harder to drill the hinges than the frame but I believe it was a good choice. I have purchased new hinges and made the holes in each part of the hinge displaced by ~3mm. The results are very good, the door is much better positioned and closes easily.
  7. Door lock problem

    In the hinge, not fringe.
  8. Door lock problem

    Hi, Roger I think I had a better idea: I will make the drilling in the fringe and not in the frame. I can even extend the hole in the fringe, allowing for some adjustment in the door position before tightening the screws. What do you think?
  9. Door lock problem

    Thanks, Roger, it is somehow reassuring to hear that mine is not the only case. I was wondering that this may be caused by distortion on the frame caused by the stress of the wing (with fuel) weight while the aircraft is parked (which is most of the time). My impression is that the two pieces besides the windshield may have bent a bit due to the stress, making the door opening a bit wider horizontally and shorter vertically (it might be easier to explain if English were my mother language...). It is true that wondering about the cause does not help finding a solution. Moving the door a bit forward seems to be doable and should solve the problem.
  10. Door lock problem

    Thanks for the suggestions. I have thought of using shims or trying to align the hinges but it does not seem feasible as this would move the door only vertically and I have no gap in the back (either on the upper or bottom side). May be moving it a bit to the front, but I would need to drill new holes in the fuselage for the screws, very close to the current drilling... I am treating it as a "mostly cosmetic" issue, but I have the impression it is getting harder to lock from the interior (the handles are not good to pull the door). For the moment it is annoying but I expect it will not get worse... I am not the original owner but I know the story of the plane from the start (I am the third owner). The apparent misalignment between the engine cowls and the side of the fuselage is due to bending of the cowling when I have tightened the screws, the fuselage has not been repaired. I do not know how are the door handles in the US version but these ones are quite OK. I would expect that the inner handle would be better (it is most likely the external) as it is bit small for you to hold and pull the door at the same time while you turn it, and I would prefer something not round to give a better visual feedback if the door is locked or not (like a lever that becomes vertical or horizontal when the door is locked or not). I would like to see the handles of the American version if someone could share a picture.
  11. Door lock problem

    I have a CT-U (made in Brazil) 2002 and I have a problem locking the left cabin door. It seems the door does not fit anymore in the frame (see pictures), as the gap is not uniform across the door (it is larger in the front, tight at the rear and bottom). Does anyone have a suggestion to fix it?
  12. Matco Master Cylinder New in box

    In any case, it is good practice to check the pads wear before flight, even if they are glued.
  13. Matco Master Cylinder New in box

    The pads are one piece and the liners are not riveted on. They could be expensive if I could find a part number and look for new ones but what I'll do is to have the liners replaced (glued) over the metal base of the old ones (work done by specialized brake maintenance shops). I could ask them to make it riveted but I prefer the glue to avoid the rivets touching the disks when the liners are close to end of life.
  14. Matco Master Cylinder New in box

    Yes, I have independent brakes for each wheel and agree that it is likely to be retrofit able, but I am not sure if it is worth doing it. I will live with that for the moment. I am happy with my plane but there are few things I would like to improve, including the brake system and the flaps control (mine is the only CT-family I have seen without electrical flaps), but things are more complicated living in Brazil. Heavy import taxes, long delivery times and scarce availability of parts in the country makes every modification much more challenging. Thanks for keeping this blog, I learn a lot from the contributions of everyone and the wise advices from Roger.
  15. Matco Master Cylinder New in box

    In case you are curious or willing to help, I have included some pictures of the brake system.