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MEH

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About MEH

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  1. About 4 years ago when I bought a 1995 Glastar from 800 miles away it had the "densely populated" prohibition in its Operating Limitations. When I contacted my FISDO, they reissued the Operating Limitations which did not have that prohibition. Didn't cost anything. After the initial phone call, everything was done by email. Took about two weeks. They said that there was no need to physically put eyes on the plane and that they digitally sign the forms these days so I just printed off the Operating Limitations from the email and put them in the plane.
  2. The flight school I work for uses Lemon Pledge exclusively. As cleaning the windscreen is a preflight checklist item, we train the students to clean the windscreen on every preflight, being sure to only rub linearly, from top-to-bottom-to-top and NO circular motion. The Cherokee we use has over 6000 hours, which conservatively would mean 4000 windscreen cleanings with Lemon Pledge. I will attest there are no swirls or light distortions at night. Lemon Pledge works just fine and is cheap compared to Plexux or ClearView.
  3. MEH

    Skidding

    Note the drawing has the centerline of the engine displaced down and to one side. Given the left turning tendencies, it only makes sense that it is directed to the right.
  4. MEH

    Skidding

    What you are noticing when you reduce the thrust to idle power is a reduction in the 4 left turning tendencies (torque, p-factor, gyroscopic precession, and slip stream). At cruise power, the engine is making left turning tendencies which are countered by the trim of the rudder/vertical stab. Only when you go to power levels greater than cruise should you need to hold right rudder to counter the additional left turning tendencies. When you reduce power to idle, however, there is a drastic reduction in the left turning tendencies so that the right trim that is built into the system for cruise power is no longer needed and the aircraft becomes uncoordinated. This needs to be countered by adding left rudder when at idle power. Some aircraft have their engines mounted with the thrust line obviously angled to the right as part of the strategy to counter left turning tendencies. Haven't noticed this on the FD.
  5. I echo "be carful with the carb cleaner". It is mostly acetone but also has MEK and toluene among other aggressive solvents. I would suggest trying mineral spirits first (AKA charcoal lighter fluid) as it is much less aggressive.
  6. Might be tough to tell if the leak is still active. Your nose should be pretty sensitive. Could there be a leak from the tank itself???? Might try replacing the existing auto fuel with 100LL. Has a different smell than auto fuel and is blue in color. A couple of tanks of low lead won't hurt the engine.
  7. I just replace the white tail light on my CTLS. The install directions call for a thin layer of silicone in addition to the bolts. Twisting was easiest to get the OEM off. Don't know about the wing tips but I imagine they use silicone as well. The white tail light/strobe was $200 from FDUSA, about $10 cheaper than Spruce for the same produce. That $723 a pair for wing tip lights from Spruce has me perplexed. Yikes! Is it really worth it to replace the wing tip strobes at that price???
  8. In the words of Mike Busch, "Its the clearance, Clarance." The increased viscosity of the oil has little to do with cold start wear on the engine, its that the tight clearances get even smaller when things are cold. Here are a few snippets from an article of his from AOPA Pilot magazine. A common misconception is that cold starts are bad for engines because the engine oil is thick and viscous and doesn’t flow well. Since it takes longer for oil pressure to come up when the oil is cold, the engine sustains excess wear in the early seconds after start because of inadequate lubrication. While this may be true of single-weight oils, it’s not true of the modern multiviscosity oils that are universally used today for cold-weather operations. Multivis oils such as 15W-50 or 20W-50 flow extremely well even at 0 degrees F (minus 18 degrees C) or less. Pilots who use multivis oils see their oil pressure come up quickly after starting in cold weather, and figure that everything’s OK. Wrong. It’s the clearance, Clarence Actually, the biggest culprit in cold-start damage is that our engines are made of dissimilar metals with different expansion coefficients. The crankcase, pistons, and cylinder heads are made from aluminum alloy, while the crankshaft, connecting rods, piston pins, and cylinder barrels are made from steel. Aluminum expands about twice as much as steel when heated, and contracts about twice as much when cooled. Consider your steel crankshaft, which is suspended by thin bearing shells supported by a cast aluminum crankcase. As the engine gets colder, all its parts shrink in size, but the aluminum crankcase shrinks twice as much as the steel crankshaft running through it. As temperature goes down, so does the clearance between the bearing shells and the crankshaft—and that clearance is where the oil goes to lubricate the bearings and prevent metal-to-metal contact. If there’s not enough clearance, then there’s no room for the oil, regardless of oil pressure. Consider what happens to your pistons and cylinders when you cold start an engine. Here, instead of a steel crank inside an aluminum case, we have an aluminum piston inside of a steel cylinder barrel. The clearance situation is reversed: Piston-to-cylinder fit is loose when the engine is cold, and tightens up as the engine comes up to full operating temperature. The piston has relatively low thermal mass, so it heats up quickly. The cylinder is massive and bristles with cooling fins bathed in frigid air, so it warms up slowly. The result is that the piston expands to its full operating dimension quickly after start, while the cylinder takes a lot more time to expand to its full operating diameter. The fit of the piston in the cylinder bore may become tighter than normal shortly after cold-starting when the piston has come up to temperature, but the cylinder still has a way to go. If it’s cold enough, the piston-to-cylinder clearance can go to zero, resulting in metal-to-metal scuffing between the piston and cylinder barrel.
  9. We are all going to have to buy our friends D-cell powered flashlights for Christmas.
  10. I disagree with your A&P's 50% life interpretation, and so does Ameri-King. The date printed on Duracell batteries is a shelf life, not a useful life. Useful life is how long the battery will generate voltage enough to power the device, and it varies with each device, depending on power required. Read p. 24 Installation and Operation Manual of the AK-450 that is referenced above. It says "Record the battery replacement date of the new cells being installed using one of the adhesive labels provided with the ELT. The battery replacement date is found on each Duracell MN1300 cell (figure 5). It reads as follows: "Best if installed by (Date)." The date indicated is the date by which the batteries must be replaced" (emphasis mine). Replace the batteries by the date stamped on them. The 50% rule that the FAA is referring to is basically saying that if an ELT manufacturer called out a puny battery that would only work for 1.5 hours total, then you can't run the ELT for a cumulative time of 1 hour and still have a valid ELT. It is "which ever comes first". 1 hour of ELT use, or 50% use of the batteries, not 50% of a batteries' shelf life. Hope this helps your A&P's confusion.
  11. I would check that the pins are properly wired. If it is like other Garmin products, there is an audio + and - wire. Mistakes happen.
  12. Bummer. My advice. Keep your head out the window. Set up the slow flight with 30* flaps and check your airspeed occasionally. Keep the nose at the same pitch up attitude with respect to the horizon. Keep the nose pointed to a spot way out there--on the horizon. You will perceive when the nose turns from the appointed heading by a less than 5 degree precision. Watching the heading on the electronics is so much more inaccurate. When the AOA sounds, dip the nose a bit to make it stop. The new standards allow for the occasional sounding of the AOA. You just have to do something about it, ie. dip the nose a bit. Remember. In all this slow stuff, say to yourself "When a wing drops, lift it up with opposite rudder, not aileron." and you will be fine. These birds mush and are very docile at the stall.
  13. Clearly your bird likes the maritime axiom "Red, Right, Return" rather than the "Red, Left, Port". Thanks for sharing.
  14. Ooops. Explains why we can get "fuzz" trapped in the in-line filter. Maybe I will put a "visual check down the fuel bung" on the pre-fueling "to do" list.
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