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FredG

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About FredG

  • Rank
    Pilot Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Iowa
  • Interests
    Flying
  • Gender
    Male
  1. 100LL questions

    You guys are right. Rigor, accuracy, and clarity of communication are irrelevant on this site. Not sure what I was thinking.
  2. 100LL questions

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  3. Oil Change instructions

    Roger, not sure what you mean, "It [the oil filter] can be filled 3 times."
  4. Safety Belts - Revisted

    I have posted on this topic on CTflier in the past (including photos). Several years ago, I installed a set of Crow 5-point harnesses (2" webbing) in my 2006 CTsw (Experimental registration) and I am very happy with the upgrade. For the lap and shoulder, I used the original metal belt keepers (flat u-shaped metal brackets) to anchor the straps to the airframe. The anti-sub belt is attached to an extra metal belt keeper bolted to the bulkhead under the seat with a second metal keeper just in front of the seat (so that the belt comes up from the floor just in front of the seat). All keepers mounted to the bulkhead under the floor have either oversize washers or aluminum plates to distribute the load. I have no idea whether the anti-sub attachment would withstand the load of a crash without failing. I do believe that it is substantially better than no anti-sub belt, which is what I had with the factory harness. The aftermarket belts do not loosen. They do not slip off of my shoulders. They are comfortable. They do take more time to don than the factory harness (removal is simply a twist of the lever on the cam lock "buckle"). Overall, I would make this upgrade again in a second. Captain obvious: Seat belts are critical safety equipment. Do not rely on my modification as the basis or justification for your modification. I present my experience for your entertainment and not as a guide for your safety.
  5. I use a digital level to check wing level. It can be hard to see a couple of degrees difference in the hangar, but it can result in considerable transfer of fuel from one wing to the other. That's the long way of agreeing with Ed's short, but accurate, reply.
  6. Wheel pants vibration

    I took my wheel pants off years ago and I don't miss them. I'm a knot or two slower. I like not worrying about damaging them and I like having easy access to the tires and valve stems. Personal choice. 2006 CTsw (E-LSA)
  7. VOLTAGE CREEP

    Corey, if I understand correctly, the B+ wire provides charging current to the battery and the C wire is how the VR "senses" buss voltage (so that output can be regulated to maintain the VR set point voltage). So, what is the "R" terminal on the VR for?
  8. The 5 degree "droop" isn't necessarily with respect to the relative wind when the airplane flying in the cruise configuration. it is possible that while in flight the bottom edge of the stabilator is 5 degrees below the center of the spinner resulting in no engine droop (again, with respect to the relative wind) when actually flying.
  9. Tom, I said "does not use a magneto ignition system" and I was specifically referring to my slight misuse of the term "p-lead" for the 912 ignition module grounding wire.
  10. Andy, thanks, no worries. I meant my reply to be informational, as well. Regarding DJ Todd B's question about the engine continuing to run... Once running, the engine is designed to run with no connection to any external device or battery. So, pulling both master breakers won't stop the engine (if installed correctly). Only grounding the "p-leads" (I know, the 912 does not use a magneto ignition system) from the ignition modules will stop the engine. On my plane, that only happens with the key switch is rotated to the stop position. This post is informational only. Do not attempt this in flight without being certain that you know what will happen.
  11. Andy, sure. But, then you don't have an immediate visual indicator of OPEN vs. CLOSED, like you would with a breaker that is not guarded. Everybody gets to make their own decisions, but, I just went with PUSH-PULL. The breaker status is immediately obvious with a glance and no accidental OPEN. Regarding the toggle breakers, I don't know if they were designed to be easier to OPEN than to CLOSE. They were just too easily opened for my liking. Regarding effects of open breakers, it depends on your airplane. Does it have Skyview with backup battery? If yes, then backup battery plays a role once buss voltage drops below some threshold. Or is it a pre-skyiew airplane without battery backup? If yes, and the "GEN" breaker is OPEN and the BAT breaker is CLOSED, then the panel functions until the main battery is depleted. Then they go dark. If BAT breaker is OPEN, and no backup battery connected to the displays, then no avionics will operate (please check this for yourself, I am not looking at a wiring diagram while typing).
  12. Bill, I'm not sure what part of my post you want a link to - I was describing my own observations based on handling the breaker. If they had a very positive, crisp action, I would have installed them. I wanted a toggle style master, but not a mushy one. Fred
  13. I assume you mean the TYCO breaker with a lever to switch between closed and open rather than a push-pull action. I have not made the replacement on my CT but I purchased a breaker of that style thinking I might install it in an experimental airplane. I found that the lever was very easily moved from the ON position to the OFF position. It doesn't take much of an effort to move the lever and it seemed like it would be easy to accidentally bump the breaker from ON to OFF without knowing it happened. I ended up installing push/pull style TYCO breakers for Batter and Generator on the experimental. I prefer them because they are nearly impossible to accidentally move from the ON position to the OFF position. Can't same the same for the lever style.
  14. Intermittent flaps

    Corey, when were the new model flaps first installed?
  15. I just finished checking out an intermittent flap issue on a CTSW, relay board connection problem. The owner referred to your post, thanks for that, it saved time locating it on the firewall. I could create the fault by lightly flexing the board.

    Thinking about your mysterious switch board issue, sounds like it might be an overvoltage problem since charging volts is higher than battery volts. Maybe adjusting the potentiometer on the relay board might help?

    1. FredG

      FredG

      I had the same thought and tried adjusting the potentiometer.  It didn't help.  Quite bizarre.  

      Fred

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