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Jeremy MacGregor

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About Jeremy MacGregor

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/04/1987

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    Tracy CA
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  1. I agree Roger I would never make an adjustment without a balancer connected. Cable tension and the condition of those flimsy idle stops have an effect on the screws so that 1/20 of a turn on one carb can have a different effect than a 1/20 on the other. So the old “I’ll just turn them the same amount” isn’t very accurate. One thing I’ve found that really helps is putting a double heat shrink at the point where the cable sheathing enters the brass adjuster on the carb. Keeping that connection from flexing really helps keep every synced over time. Also never remove or adjust a carb when the lever in the cockpit is at idle, it almost always tweaks ones of the stops. Move the lever to half throttle and release the tension. Then you can pop a carb out and check a float bowl or whatever and you’ll be pretty close when you put her back in place.
  2. I’ve been having good results with the current floats. However they seem to be on the heavy side out of the box even with the weight shaving. The last 8 sets I’ve gotten have come in around 3.1-3.2gms out of the box as opposed to the 2.9-3.0gms on the last few 2 dot and 3 dot versions. Ive cheaked on a few that have been in there for 6 months or so, and so far so good.
  3. 2005 CTSW for sale 1106 TTAF 301 TTOE (08' with 2000hr TBO) Upgraded landing gear struts, reinforced wheel nuckles and Matco brake system. Has been upgraded to a Tundra package with a 4.00x6 on the front and 6.00x6 on the mains. Has upgraded nose to allow for larger front nose wheel. TruTrak dual servo auto pilot. AvMap 4. Flydat engine monitor. Updated ignition modules. Sun visors For questions call 209-481-5881 or email JM_aeroservice@yahoo.com Interior 7 Exterior 7 (Pictures posted shortly)
  4. I'm guessing you have low gear box tension and a partially damaged sprag clutch. If the starter is slipping and spinning freely form the crank it's the sprag clutch. Any time the engine is kicking back it's damaging the sprag, kickback is most likely caused from low gearbox tension. I recommend servicing every 500hrs to keep mid range and low idle vibrations to a minimum. The Rotax recommended friction torque test can sometimes be a poor representation of the amount of actual axial play on the the prop shaft.
  5. Just a reminder for you guys getting close to your gearbox inspections that JM Aero Service is fully set up to handle all your gearbox needs. You can have your local Maint. Rated mechanic remove the gearbox and send it in to me or if they're Heavy Maintence rated you can have them handle the gearbox disassembly and send in just the clutch. If your on the west coast your also welcome to fly in for a 1 stop shop. Call 209-481-5881 for a quote. I've been thru close to 100 gearboxes and about 40 clutches over the last 5 years and know them like the back of my hand. Also happy to just give advise to you or your mechanic if needed!
  6. Hey guys Going into this is was certain I was going to find a small amount of debris in the carbs based on what Ed had told me over the phone. I had explained to him that I though it was probably because of an improper installation and that after flushing the small amount of debris out everything would be ok. As you can see from the pictures above there was a huge amount of rubber flakes found in both carbs, the fuel pump screen and the fuel sump. This is consistent with a line failure since the flakes are showing up in so many parts of the system in such large quantities. I agree with Roger that this is defiantly bad publicly for people advocating the 5yr replacement like I do. But there is a need for it and we have both found many examples. The best fix for Ed is probably switching all lines over to the Gates Barrcade hose since his lines probably won't stop detiriorating at this point.
  7. Whenever you suspect oil pressure issues it's always advisable to Tee in a mechanical oil pressure gage. Most mechanical gages have dampeners and will give you a better idea of the average oil pressure. The 912 installation Manuel also has limits for the amount of restriction in the oil system if your worried about tight bends or cooler restrictions.
  8. Hi Jeremy,Hope you are well. I've been flying a lot.. up to 580 hrs.

    are you still doing 600hr gearbox inspection/rebuild? I know you are rated, but are you equipped ?

    Thank, Bill

  9. I don't work at CPS anymore so I can't speak on there behalf but I would like to put in my insight on our previous purchasing history while I was working there. Up until about 3months before CPS was sold all Gates fuel hoses were purchases by 25ft rolls usually about 4-5 rolls at a time of each size. Because of the high demand for the hose we were getting in Shipments about every 3-6months, roughly. Just before CPS was sold we were notified by our supplier that the hose was available in large quatities in what I believe was a 100ft roll maybe larger. I believe we only every ordered the 1/4" in this quantity before the sale. I vaguely remember making a note of a change of the outside texture of the 1/4" hose we were getting supplied with starting with around early 2011. The 5/16" hose never changed in appearance. Agian these are rough dates based off my memory and I'm only posting to help clear up this mess.
  10. I have used the Gates hose for many years and have never had a single problem until 2 months ago a customer had a clogging issue. We later found one small piece of rubber that had likely been cut off while being pushed over a hose barb and then found it's way to the bowl. I don't believe that Gates fuel injection hoses are defective but I do believe like Roger L mentioned that a extensive ground run and float bowl inspection is absolulty imperative .
  11. Well looks like Rotax has released there fuel injected 912iS today! Still 100hp but now with electronic fuel injection and a new electronic engine management system. Still 2000hr TBO and unfortunately the engine will be 6kg heavier. I believe the system will also use variable electronic timing as well. Twin fuel injectors for redundancy! Now more carb balances :-)
  12. Yes Eddie, the oil leak in your photos is most likely do to your o- rings in your oil pump assembly. It's an easy fix just make sure you order all (4) o- rings and replace them all at once. The 1" o-ring on the inside of the pump requires massaging loctite 5910 onto the 1 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions where the crank case halfs meet to prevent oil migration. If your getting a leak just aft of the oil pump, or in your case forward of the pump. Then that may be related to the halfs moving in relation to each other. Also be suspect of the M8 bolts on the lower part of the crankcase, these are notorious for oil migration pass the threads.
  13. Hey Dick The 10-15 ft/lbs or less is what would be found on a normal healthy engine. As an engine gets older you should see a slight drop in this value as the clearances between the crank and main bearings increases. This test is listed under the "unscheudled maintenance checks" in the Line M/M. This test is to be performed if an engine is running "sluggish"<-- I feel there was a loss in translation with this word. In the event you run the engine partially out of oil, prop striked it, or just want to test the overall health of your lower end are the only times this test should need to be done. The engine may be returned to service if the force is less than 100ft/lbs but I can tell you if you start to get into the 50+ ft/lbs area you may be running into a partial siezure already that will just get worse. Next time your mechanic is doing a compression test, walk up and spin the prop with your hand, this will give you an idea of just how little resistance there is inside the engine once the compression is no longer a factor. As far as the loctite goes all Im saying is that if you do see a redish/orange sealant on the bottom of the engine where the case halves meet than your engine is more likely to fret and more likely to develop a leak on the higher time engines. Newer cases with the new torquing procedure along with the black glue-like 5910 are much less likely to have any issues. I wouldn't read to much into this unless you happen to have a leak in which case this will help explain why.
  14. Well if I could put in my two cents. First of all the Crankcase cracking has little to do with the actual fretting inside of the case. The issues from cracking has to do with how the pressure was originally distributed across the case itself. This is why even after changing to the 2006 crankcase they had also changed the torqueing specs about 2-3 yrs later, to prevent the fretting. The new cases are beefed up and they had added extra dowels added to them to prevent the fretting. The switch over to the 5910 also did wonders for helping the fretting. This is why if you have a 2008 and older engine, if you look under your oil pump you will see a redish sealant Loctite 274, if you have over 300-400 hrs on your engine I can bet you will pick up some sweating and possibly an oil drop or two. This can be a problem if your crankcase seal is sacrificed but it would need to be more than a few drops and hour leak. The tightness from spinning the prop over is more a problem with torquing and unequal clearances inside the engine. As long as it's less than 10-15ft lbs with out plugs I wouldn't worry about it, Rotax allows up to 100ft/lbs which is way scary!
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