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ibjet

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About ibjet

  • Rank
    Senior Crew Member

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  • Location
    Kingman, AZ, USA
  • Interests
    Flying, mountain biking, dancing, singing (Karaoke), camping, hiking, do-it-yourselfer.
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. ibjet

    Engine removal

    I have delayed my project but going back to my hangar tomorrow. I want to make sure I find all the leaks in my coolant system. Not sure if any of you have a coolant leak tester (I modified a "universal" leak tester set so that it fits the rotax plenum). Question: Anybody tried leak testing a drained coolant system by pressuring with air only and spraying all the connections with soapy water? I hate to just remove all the hoses when only 1 or 2 connections are leaking. Anyway, I'll assume it's a brilliant idea until I prove myself wrong, ha ha. ET
  2. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Thanks Tom! I am concerned that the left lower engine mount is somehow distorted. You can see that the bolt is not aligned with the engine mount tube on the T frame. I'll remove the T frame and engine mount ring and make a bunch of measurements and see if I can get it to line up better with the new rubber I got from Roger Lee.
  3. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Thanks Tip. I can see that the stain is coming from around the end of the hose. I tried to tighten that clamp and it was quite tight. That's part of the reason I decided to go ahead and pull the engine (the other was the sagging I was seeing (my engine tilts down just over 3 degrees). I will remove the hose from the coolant elbow fitting, remove the elbow fitting and see if I can see why a tight clamp was letting it leak (perhaps a flaw in the tube or in the fitting. I have another leak from the hose that goes to the left side of the radiator. That has a spring clamp. I have a pressure tester that I adapted to the Rotax radiator cap. So, I will be able to make sure before I re-install the engine. I'm wondering what clamps to use. Anybody have a specific clamp/source?
  4. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Finally got my engine pulled this afternoon. It was imbalanced, but I cranked the lever on the sling until I was lifting right over the CG of the engine/prop/nose wheel/T frame. Posting a picture of my lifting system and one of the sagging engine mount and one of the leak stains on the coolant elbow. Excited to fix the leaks and get rid of the sagging and I'll get a mini steam cleaner and clean it up nice while I'm at it. Thanks for all the great input guys, what a wonderful resource this Forum is!!!!
  5. Hey Indiana, What did you use as a parting agent (how did you keep the carbon fiber from sticking to your mold)? Just curious in case I ever try to do a lay up like that. Thx, ET
  6. Oh, yes, for Florida there must be other shops back East that have been certified. I haven't heard back from Ron Hansen yet, I'll let you know any insight he provides. ET
  7. Wow! That is a lot of light! What is the lumens output? The single LED I'm using is 9 watts and 830 lumens. Even though that's an upgrade from the original stock landing light I couldn't help but compare it to my mountain bike light with 1500 lumens! I cannot see my landing light on the runway until short final, but I'm used to it and it is very noticeable to other traffic. I'm also very happy that I can have everything on and don't get a red alternator light even at idle. That's a beautiful installation! Was the cowling mod part of the light kit? I mean, did they provide the fairing and you fit it up to your cowling? Thx! ET
  8. I have a friend/acquaintance who had that happen and he had a mechanic remove his wings (both were leaking) and he transported them to Airtime (Riverside Airport on the south edge of Tulsa) for repair. The repair is via a slosh sealant technique. Such a scary situation for all we CT owners. Not sure if it is just certain years that are susceptible. I never heard how my friend did, I think it was a financial disaster for him and that he sold the airplane (since he quit communicating with me about it). I'll send an email to him and see if he will let me know what happened and see if Airtime was a good choice. ET
  9. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Ordered the (self sealing/ dual wall) heat shrink tubing already. Amazon is so awesome!
  10. ibjet

    Engine removal

    I removed the choke cables today, I just cut the fat part of the plastic hose that overlaps the choke tube/elbow. That plastic is a special heat shrink sleeve, so I will have to remove the whole thing and find something to replace it. They are self sealing (a bit of goop comes out the ends), so I will find something similar (like self sealing heat shrink wire splices, etc).
  11. ibjet

    ET's photos

    Pic on CT related items
  12. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Just got back into my engine removal (been in Hawaii, good excuse aye). Can someone tell me how to remove the choke cable? The tube (see white arrow in pic) is threaded into the top of the carburetor (I guess???). I know I just need to pull the cable out of the tube but can't figure how to do that (normally you would just pull the cable housing out of the tube, but it does not want to pull out (there is a heavy plastic sleeve over the end of the tube. Thx, ET
  13. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Thank you Tom for all your help! Wed I removed the 2 yellow wires without too much difficulty. I used a very small straight bladed screw driver to shove into the opening next to each tang and then I used a bit bigger screw driver to push the tang out of the connector. I ordered new engine mount rubber from Roger Lee and so I decided I should measure what the tilt of my engine is before and after. I zeroed out my digital level to the horizontal reference plane in the cockpit and then I placed it on the flat spot on top of the gearbox. I think I'll bring a small square out and measure it a different way. QUESTION: Does anyone know what the tilt should be, what is considered allowable? I actually got 2.8 degrees tilt downward toward the front the first time (that little flat area is very small and my level has 3 pads, so it varied from 2.6 to 3.0 degrees). Thx, ET Update 11-30-19: I used a square against the machined surface on the back to the gearbox and I got a very consistent reading: 3.3 degrees. That's gotta be the reason my spinner comes really close to my lower engine cowl.
  14. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Thank you very much Tom, great info! I wondered if those wires could be removed from that connector, should have known that they have to be inserted into the plastic connector housing! I got some feedback from the guy who did my annual when I bought my airplane, Rex Johnson (works out of the Riverside Airport on the south edge of Tulsa, OK). I text him the picture of my leak and he said it was probably the hose attached to the coolant return elbow. I went to my hangar and stuck my camera up as close as I could get from the right side and sure enough, the stain appears to originate at the hose. And, I can get a long screw driver up in that area and tighten the clamp! Tomorrow I will go out and re-install that one bolt I have removed and pressure test my coolant system, then tighten that clamp and pressure test again. Now I'm torn, I really want to replace my engine mount rubber, it's very weather checked and the engine appears to be tilted down. Just saw your input John, thanks, I will be out at my hangar tomorrow, I don't think I have to cut any wires (with the info that Tom gave me above). I'll let you know if I see more. There were 2 small wires going over the top/center of the engine that had crimp splices. I cut them in half and I will cut off the splice material to save as much of the wire length as possible and re-splice when I re-assemble.
  15. ibjet

    Engine removal

    I think I just have these 3 wires that I will have to cut then splice to be able to fully remove the engine. I want to fully remove the engine so I can lift it up and drop the nose wheel). The 2 very small gauge wires I would not worry about splicing, but that one larger wire leads right into some kind of really large splice and I hate to cut the shrink sleeve to look at it because I would have to cut that splice and redo to be able to slip on new shrink sleeve. Am I missing something? Can anyone tell me how you handled this? Thanks, ET
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