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ibjet

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About ibjet

  • Rank
    Senior Crew Member

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  • Location
    Kingman, AZ, USA
  • Interests
    Flying, mountain biking, dancing, singing (Karaoke), camping, hiking, do-it-yourselfer.
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. ibjet

    Pitch control binding

    I used the Inox injector bottle, 60 ml. I was concerned about getting overspray on the composite structure. The injector bottle is also cheaper, maybe that was the tipping point, ha ha. I bought mine from eBay, but I just checked and Amazon carries both versions: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=inox+mx3+lubricant&sprefix=inox+m%2Caps%2C235&crid=112FFQPNL6BS9
  2. ibjet

    Pitch control binding

    Got everything hooked up this evening. Elevator travel is now lighter and smoother, yay, success. So, the main culprit was the GE 12 E spherical bearing in the tail. So, moral of the story: Lube it or lose it, ha ha. I am using that iNox Lanolin lube and for what you cannot reach with the needle applicator, I put a drop on the end of a straightened/clean coat hangar wire, and reach what I want to lube (it wicks in easily). I ended up needing to make a longer base for my axle push in tool so that I could push the axle in. Quite a magic trick to get everything all lined up so the axle will go in. I used the handle shaft of an exacto blade knife as a pilot in the far end to hold that part in line.
  3. I decided to start a new topic because I had mis-titled this and could not figure out how to revise the title. So, here is the problem: My pitch control had gotten a binding condition. When I moved the Stabilator up it would pop thru a resistance and then when I would lower it, it would go back thru that resistance. I decided to stop flying it that way because it was affecting my ability to flair the plane on landing. After a lot of experimenting I finally discovered that the main issue was the Spherical Bearing in the tail had corroded and frozen (would not swivel at all). My CT has apparently spent quite a stint living outdoors. I noticed in the Parts & Assembly Manual that the Spherical Bearing had a commercial part number: GE 12 E so I did a search and found a surplus company that had one new for very reasonable (it is a SKF German made bearing). For anyone who has this condition, to isolate, you could disconnect the pitch control cable from the bell crank arm and see if it is free to move up and down a bit (mine was not, the spherical ball was frozen in the outer race). Also the dead give away, once you remove that connection, the stabilator travels smoother and the stick front to back motion becomes smoother. In the process I made 2 tools that are worth showing: The first is a tool to compress the spring assembly in the tail. This is so you can disconnect the ball joint that connects the spring assembly to the pitch control bell crank. You need a couple 7 MM open end wrenches to do this, one regular and the other with a near right angle open end (because the ball joint post only has 2 flats on it, not a hex). The second is a tool to press out the Stabilator mount bracket axle bolt. It should push out easily, but in my 13 year old CT it did not. I tried tapping it out and it jammed (big time). I bought a chop saw so that I could make the wood pieces nice and true. Eric Swisher shared a link showing what the pitch control cable is made of, thanks Eric! It is supposedly maintenance free except the end rods can be lubed: http://www.flexballitaliana.com/prodotto.php?idprodotto=80 Speaking of lube, I will show what I bought for that, thanks to recommendation from Roger Lee, you da man Roger!!! And the last picture is the culprit: The frozen up spherical bearing. By the way, all the friction points in the tail needed to be lubed (I used the iNox MX3 with the injection needle, they also make spray, I think the needle version is best).
  4. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    Nice bike! Very creative getting it in (pretty similar to my mounting). I think you should work out some way to assure the bike cannot shift. Mine is even scarier than yours because I have cables that come close to the control stick. Enjoy your combination hobby! Thanks for sharing the pics.
  5. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Still had the binding when I hooked up the elevator cable rod end to the bell crank again! There is a spherical bearing at the rear cable mount bracket. It will not swivel at all. I lubed it with the iNox, but no luck. I also noticed that the cable rod end is not lined up well with the hole in the bell crank. When I force the rod end down during connection, that is when the binding happens. I did a little search (because the parts manual says it is a GE 12 E bearing, and I found it pretty cheap on eBay and bought it (SKF GE 12 E made in Germany). In a bit I will go back out to my hangar and try to disconnect the front and rear cable mount brackets and see if I can move the whole cable assembly back far enough to get to the rear cable mount bracket assembly and work on it (free up the spherical bearing or remove it). Anybody had this issue? Anybody move the whole elevator cable assembly back?
  6. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Removed the horizontal yesterday and it looks like Roger was right once again!!! I had not noticed but the rod end that connects the elevator cable had a very light coat of rust! One of the 2 trim tab actuators has a very tight rod end (I'm betting it is totally dry inside). The full width trim tab (not sure if they have another name for it) is fairly hard to move. And, yesterday I got the iNox MX3 that Roger recommended. I got the non-spray with a drip needle, think that makes the best sense (to avoid getting lanolin on the structure). I drilled a hole thru a 1x4 about 30 inches long and and mounted it as a counter balance for the counter balance, ha ha. So, my plan is to clean and lube everything (I'll have to peal off the nylon tape to get to the trim tab hinges) but I have new tape. And, as I reconnect things I will check for binding each time. I will also lube the connections in the cockpit. I will have to do one more final post here to confirm. But, Roger or anyone who has removed the horizontal tail: What the heck is that extra ball joint for? I removed it from the control arm and it fell out, ha ha. Is this just a spare ball joint? Nice of them, ha ha. Evening update: I cleaned the spring assembly in acetone and then I re-lubed it with the iNox. When I re-lubed the ball joint, I was amazed. It had been very stiff, it now tilts and rotates MUCH freer. I don't think all the moving parts in the tail have been lubed in many years! And, by the way Roger - I also decided to safety wire the spring assembly together, thought about trying to thread the rod end post into the control arm and decided it would be worth giving the wiring a try. It's gonna be real fun getting the wire back off the assembly, but, say la vie! Again Roger, thank you for your great help so many times on this forum!!!
  7. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I don't think I will need to do that pre-compressing thing, my set up allows me to compress the spring and go hands free. I'm chomping at the bit to remove my horizontal but by the time I was home from chores, it was 41 degrees, and I just could not force myself to go. Sitting at home in front of my fireplace, ha ha. It'll be warmer here tomorrow and I'll make more progress.
  8. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Yes, thanks Roger, I have the newer version spring assembly with the guides. Hopefully I will make it out to the hangar and continue my evaluation today. It just doesn't seem right that the front end of the spring assy is located by a small shaft which travels fwd/aft and it goes into a much larger hole. I actually ordered some 1" dia Teflon rod to make a bushing for that spot. Not sure if I will follow thru.
  9. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I finally got the spring assembly removed. Thought I'd share some pictures. I see a problem already - the spring assembly is not held in place on the FWD end except by a thru hole in the composite material (see bottom hole in pict 4). The center shaft of the spring assembly is way smaller diameter than that hole. I think there needs to be a bushing there of some kind. The parts and assembly manual does not show anything there. Tomorrow I will hook up the elevator cable and trim cables again and see if the binding is still there (without the spring assembly). If so, I will next check into the trim tab and it's linkage. Final chaper yet to come, ha ha, . . .
  10. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    ABS is definitely stronger. The challenge for this particular part will be getting it to withstand heat exposure (like time on the tarmac on a hot summer day. For that, it would be better to machine the part out of Delrin or equiv (which is grey like the original parts. I went with the most common 3D print filament just so I could get usable parts without too many hours of learning how to deal with the more difficult filaments. But, if I had bought a mini CNC Mill I would have used Delrin. The parts I made are holding up fine so far. Not at all sure they will servive a hot day outside! Great question!!! ET
  11. ibjet

    No fuel crossfeed.

    Just saw this subject and thought I would add my 2 cents, ha ha. I have had the same experience with my 2006 CTSW. I only have an On/Off fuel selector which I leave on 99.9% of the time. Anyway, mine always drains the right tank way more than the left. I really freaked out when I was doing my annual this past year and I could not get good flow out of the left wing. I finally removed the gascolator bowl and found that I had plenty of flow (the gascolator drain port is very restrictive, thought about it and decided I didn't want it to flow really fast out of there, ha ha). One good aspect: I fuel just the right tank, simplifies my fuel logistics, ha ha. I don't have a solution, just living with it. KEEP MORE RESERVE FUEL, ha ha.
  12. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I'm going to use a short length of 1" dia alum bar, but I will connect it to a long skinny piece of hardwood trim that I can clamp to a stationary table (once I get the Stabilator held down into neutral position). I will drill a .50 dia hole thru on center line (that will just clear the head of the ball joint). Then I will mill a flat along the side of the bar until I have a .300 wide opening that will clear the post of the ball joint. That way I will have a pretty big foot print to push the spring forward with, but I can also reach in with a 7 mm open end wrench to turn the post (mine is either Loctited in or just threaded in to the Trim actuator arm. When I try to loosen it, I'll hit it with my little heat gun first to soften the Loctite. Posting a picture showing the foot print of the tool that I will make (in red).
  13. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Thank you! This Forum is such an awesome resource! You know, like anything else, if you just pour yourself into it (cautiously, ha ha) after a while of swimming around in it, it just unveils itself. Now that I know how I will compress the spring, it does not seem like that much of a challenge. I have a mini milling machine so I can make little tool details when I need them. But the metal part needed for this could be made of tubing and the slot made with a Dremel motor. I'm looking forward to posting a picture . . .
  14. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I did some more poking around . . . I loosened the nut that holds the spring rod end to the trim arm. Then I tried to turn the ball end shaft (it has 2 flats), the dang thing would not turn! I even pushed forward on the spring to take tension off. I guess it is threaded into the trim arm. It may even be Loctited on. Next time I'll shoot it with my little heat gun first. For my tool to compress the spring, I found I have some 1" dia alum rod, so I'll make something like the Safety Directive shows about 2 inches long and attach it to a long rectangular piece of hardwood trim. Then, I'll pull the Stabilator down into neutral position and apply that tool, and clamp the other end of it to a stationary table. I gotta do something like that to be able to remove the Stabilator so that I can re-connect the trim cables. But, I'm accomplishing the mission, learning what makes the Stabilator tick! Thanks for your info Roger. I'll have to show a picture of my set up when I get to it (multiplexing this week, ha ha).
  15. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Thank you so much Roger, you are sooooo helpful, as usual! Still baffled what my "vanishing binding problem" could be. And with the Stabilator removed it will take a lot of force to move the Stabilator mount/pivot. So I might not even be able to feel the binding then. I think I have to go ahead and remove that spring assembly. I'll find suitable tubing and slot it like that Safety Alert shows. Then I'll have to come up with a way to hold the tubing against the spring while I work. Hmmm, move over Rube Goldberg, ha ha.
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