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About ibjet

  • Rank
    Senior Crew Member

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  • Location
    Kingman, AZ, USA
  • Interests
    Flying, mountain biking, dancing, singing (Karaoke), camping, hiking, do-it-yourselfer.
  • Gender

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  1. I wanted to clarify a bit possibly: the 00957 number is an NAED number (National Association of Electrical Distributors). The number that Amazon stocks it under, SM16-09-25D-830-03, is more of a spec number. If you order the one from Amazon, it will have the 00957 number on the box also (and I"m pretty sure it's on the bulb, mine is in my airplane). But, hey, I've got good news, ha ha: I just did a search and typed in "NAED 00957" and got a hit on eBay for less cost! Let me give you that link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-SORAA-Brilliant-00957-MR16-9W-3000k-25-SM16-09-25D-830-03-Lamp-Light-Bulb-/331637894091 I still have to go thru what you will go thru with Flight Design, I do not have my landing light documented yet. I have several things I did to enable night flying, and I will attempt to lump them all together. Just putting off doing the "paperwork', gotta get with it! I have had pretty good luck dealing with Arian Foldan at Flight Design. I will provide a full documentation package to him along with my MRA. But, for your documentation, it sounds like you would just contact Arian and ask him to issue the standard MRA regarding the LED us to you (and there will be a fee I have been told). By the way Arian's email is: Arian Foldan <topservice@flightdesignusa.com> PS: That deal was so good that I bought one to have a spare, ha ha. They got me when they said I had earned a $5 discount!!! It's just eBay wanting me to do more business with them! ET
  2. This looks like the best deal on Amazon if you want to use them: They don't actually sell it by the part number that I noted earlier. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPONL76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It does claim 590 lumins.
  3. I went to my CT parts Wearhouse (back bedroom book case, upper shelf, ha ha) and dug out the 2 landing lights that I have: 1). Soraa 00957. This is a single LED MR16 bulb rated 9W actual, 3000k color, 25 degree light cone, the box does not state lumens (odd). 2). GreenCreative 57978. This is a 5 LED MR16 bulb rated 8.5W actual, 3000k color, 15 degree light cone, 580 lumens. I think I must have a Soraa installed in my CT right now because I definitely have the single LED bulb. If I ever do burn it out, I think I will make a little mount in my garage, open up the garage door at night and see which one puts out the best light (maybe even take it out in the street, ha ha). Attaching pic of the 2 boxes I have and of my mount which was installed by my mechanic when I bought the CT (a guy back at the Riverside Airport in Tulsa). Nothing is bonded with silicon. There are 4 threaded studs installed in metal receptacles that were molded into the lower cowling by his fiberglass guy. I had to install longer studs and get longer springs so that I could adjust the aiming of the light. At night I turn on everything and I do not have any problem with generator light coming on. I have 2 interior LED lights, but I only use one of them (both are very low draw LED lights). I also have a lighted vertical card compass now, and an AvMap EFIS. I replace the Garmin GPS with a small tablet (I found a short USB cord and just plugged it into the 12V outlet via a 2 port USB adapter. I normally have all of these on for night flying, with no power problem. I did a little searching on Amazon and by chance found out that I got my Soraa bulbs from them, ha ha. But, their source was 1000Bulbs! I think I got a better price thru Amazon (and free shipping).
  4. Thank you gentlemen! I mis-stated my heading, it will be 5 degrees heading on the way up. And the way I learned it, anything to the right of 0 degrees is Easterly until 180 degrees, and the saying I memorized is "East is odd, West is even", so I believe I should use 9,500 on the way up and 10,500 on the way back. Sorry for the confusion, Avare shows me Track and Bearing, and sometimes I get them mixed up! Again thanks, love the knowledge resource here!!!! ET
  5. Question about the 10,000 MSL limit/rule: I fly as a private pilot (I have kept doing my aviation medical exams because I love flying at night). I am very rusty on Airspace Rules (never really learned the new airspace rules, need to take a ground school actually). But, here's my situation. . . I'm flying from Kingman AP AZ Saturday to Cedar City, UT, I have to fly above 7999 going over Grand Canyon area. Flying direct, I will actually be over Grand Canyon West, will be in sight of the Sky Walk, might head right over that, only about a mile or 2 west of my direct flight. Anyway, following the odd/even +500 altitude rules, I figure I will fly up (heading of 349) at an altitude of 9,500. And fly home at an altitude of 10,500. Question: Since I am a licensed private pilot, can I ignore the below 10,000 MSL limit for Light Sport? I have searched and searched and do not find the answer! I think the 10,000 limit is on the pilot rating, not the aircraft, right? I would not attempt to cruise above the 10,500 elevation because I understand the Bing carbs start to get too rich at about 10,000. Thanks, ET
  6. My exhaust system seems to have terrible flow disturbance, the welded joints are not well aligned and not designed to flow smoothly from one section to the next. I'm thinking that would be a great bolt on horse power. But, I know also that aviation engines should not be experimented with lightly (the ability to run at full throttle on take off is based on many different parameters). Anyway, just thought I'd ask if anyone has seen or heard of a smooth flow header system for the CT/Rotax? ET
  7. Wow, I am amazed at the "brain trust" here. Thanks gentlemen! I was on a 4 mile final and pretty well lined up with the runway, but I'm sure I did some rudder input to correct my alignment with the runway. Thank you very very much for these last 3 inputs, you've changed my attitude, I was convinced I didn't need to worry about which tank my fuel was residing in, ha ha. Now I realize the importance of balancing it. I did over an hour of flying yesterday. The second time I climbed to 10,000 then throttled to idle and descended all the way back until I was pattern altitude at Kingman. Never any problem at all with the engine and it didn't stumble when I added power (both my previous airplanes had that issue). There might not have been as much moisture in the air as last Friday, but if I can cut to idle abruptly at 10,000 with no issues, I'm happy. I love the Rotax 912! Many thanks!!! ET
  8. Thanks for all the great input gentlemen! Yes, I did the flow test with my annual. It drove me crazy 'cause I could not pass when going thru the gascolator drain. When I took the gascolator bowl off, the flow from each tank was fine, more than 10 gallons per hour as I remember. I did check the fuel cap vents at annual, was not sure about how clear they were so I soaked them each in acetone and blew them out with compressed air and they seemed the same (definitely had air flow). I also adjusted them so they faced forward more correctly then they had been (I had also installed new O-rings so needed to correct the pointing of the vent tubes). I also removed the carburetor bowls at the end of my annual and drained them out by suction tube (syphoned). I did not get any debris, but the gas looked like whiskey, I was very glad I took the trouble to drain them! As I said, after thinking thru everything that had happened, I decided it was probably carb ice and it was worse on one side of the engine than the other (accounting for the vibration when I applied increased throttle). And, since I got the confirmation that one empty tank will not cause gas starvation, I am back leaning toward that as my prime suspect. It did run fine for the long taxi to my hangar and did fine with my mag check which would indicate possibly that the icing issue was cleared up because of the ground level temps (probably about 70 by about 5 pm). So, in flight when I cut throttle to idle, I was probably still at 6,000, had been in much cooler air and there was a cloud base at around 10,000 and fairly moist air. Of course when you cut to idle that is when you get maximum pressure differential in your carburetor, max temp drop right at the slide. I've got 10 gallons in the left tank now and about 8 in the right. I'll go see if it has done the normal overnight transferring from the right tank into the left tank. I would expect to see the right tank quite a bit lower now. Just not sure how fast/slow that transfer is. But, the plane is sitting with the right wing higher by about 0.1/0.2 degrees. I'll also do a calibration of my digital level at home first and see if I can nail that down better. Still baffled that the gas in the right wing did not transfer to the left wing Saturday (even tilted it more Sunday for about an hour. It seems like when that gas line from the tank to the gascolator is empty, you get an air bound situation. And, that should clear up once you have a good quantity of gas in that tank (hopefully)!!! If not it would fix itself once you do some flying. I plan to do a run up today, maybe a high speed taxi, then probably fly it locally and climb fairly high and put some time on it. Kingman has a really long runway so I'll set it right back down if it misses at all. I will do at least one more post here. I really wish I had done that flow test before putting in the 10 gallons. Might drain the left tank again but it would also drain the right at the same time so I'd fill 4 gas cans in the process. But, now I know my carb heat is working (have verified full travel of the flap inside the air cleaner box). So, lesson learned, I certainly will pull that carb heat control all the way out if I have this problem again. Again gentlemen, It is so awesome to have this great knowledge base, really appreciate the effort, give yourselves a big pat on the back! Thank you! ET
  9. Please see the 2 questions in bold print. I made a sight seeing flight from Kingman airport, AZ over Supai AZ to see the Havasu falls/Mooney falls. There is no airport there so it was an out and back, about an hour and 40 minutes. I had about 15 to 18 gallons of fuel onboard. We made a straight in landing approach for Rwy 21 at Kingman. At about 4 miles out I decided I was too high and cut back to idle. Shortly after that the engine started missing. I played with the throttle setting many times and higher throttle made the engine vibrate like some cylinders were missing. I ended up lining up for an off field landing 2 different times, with the engine totally dying once. I was lined up on a field and decided to crank it and it re-started. We climbed a bit and then it lost power again so I lined up for a better field landing, but had to dodge some cows! But, played with the throttle again and got some more power. I was able to climb very cautiously and so I lined up with the runway and made a pretty normal landing. I taxed to my hangar and did a normal mag check - went fine. In flight I had looked at the right fuel indicator and it showed about 8 gallons. I can't remember if I even looked at the left side but it almost always has more. So, today I went back to my hangar to check it out (I was convinced it had been carburetor icing). To my shock the left tank showed totally empty in the indicator tube. I opened the gas filler and that area showed dry. Even shook the wing and it didn't sound like the left side made any sloshing noise, though the right side did. I have this condition where the left tank always seems to draw gas out of the right tank while sitting in the hangar. I measured tilt today with a digital level and the right wing was about 0.1/0.2 degrees higher. But, the crazy thing - the gas did not transfer this time, stayed in the right wing leaving the left wing empty! I even propped the right wing up about an inch and left for about an hour. I came back with 10 more gallons of gas and the left tank was still showing empty. I know there are some posts about needing to tilt the airplane in flight to make sure it uses fuel from the fuller tank. But, I was not sure if I had read (or that I believed) that one tank going empty would cause engine starvation. So, can anyone verify that on a normal CTSW one empty tank will cause engine starvation? Mine is a 2006. I am in shock that I can have 8 gallons of gas and my engine can quit! Just seems like FD would not have let that be. I do not remember any cautions about this in the owners manuals. And, it is very hard to see the levels in the tubes in flight, especially for the left tank if you are in the left seat. One more question while I'm at it: I was also baffled about the Carburetor Heat system. In the past when I have pulled it on to test it, I get no RPM drop. I actually got out of the habit of testing it because of that. Today I removed the upper engine cowling and pulled the carburetor heat fully on. I could hear the door inside the intake hitting the full travel stop inside the intake (and I could see that the arm had moved a lot. So: Am I supposed to have an RPM drop when I activate it fully? I did not start it up and re-verify this time. And I don't think I have done it during the 3000 RPM mag check. Thanks in advance for any input. We did get some nice pictures and Hazel even took 3 video's (which I could not download to my PC, dang. We did upload one of them to Facebook. Posting a few pics . . . Thanks, ET
  10. Yes, that's frustrating how the belts work loose. They seem to be really well designed. At least they are easy to re-tighten! Wish you were in the USA, we could do a mini fly in for biking, ha ha. Planning to fly in to Columbia, CA pretty soon now. That is a restored mining town. The airport has a campground right next to it (taxi over and tie down, it's over dirt, but Oh well, ha ha). It's fun riding the path into town multiple times a day.
  11. I used the Inox injector bottle, 60 ml. I was concerned about getting overspray on the composite structure. The injector bottle is also cheaper, maybe that was the tipping point, ha ha. I bought mine from eBay, but I just checked and Amazon carries both versions: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&amp;field-keywords=inox+mx3+lubricant&amp;sprefix=inox+m%2Caps%2C235&amp;crid=112FFQPNL6BS9
  12. Got everything hooked up this evening. Elevator travel is now lighter and smoother, yay, success. So, the main culprit was the GE 12 E spherical bearing in the tail. So, moral of the story: Lube it or lose it, ha ha. I am using that iNox Lanolin lube and for what you cannot reach with the needle applicator, I put a drop on the end of a straightened/clean coat hangar wire, and reach what I want to lube (it wicks in easily). I ended up needing to make a longer base for my axle push in tool so that I could push the axle in. Quite a magic trick to get everything all lined up so the axle will go in. I used the handle shaft of an exacto blade knife as a pilot in the far end to hold that part in line.
  13. I decided to start a new topic because I had mis-titled this and could not figure out how to revise the title. So, here is the problem: My pitch control had gotten a binding condition. When I moved the Stabilator up it would pop thru a resistance and then when I would lower it, it would go back thru that resistance. I decided to stop flying it that way because it was affecting my ability to flair the plane on landing. After a lot of experimenting I finally discovered that the main issue was the Spherical Bearing in the tail had corroded and frozen (would not swivel at all). My CT has apparently spent quite a stint living outdoors. I noticed in the Parts & Assembly Manual that the Spherical Bearing had a commercial part number: GE 12 E so I did a search and found a surplus company that had one new for very reasonable (it is a SKF German made bearing). For anyone who has this condition, to isolate, you could disconnect the pitch control cable from the bell crank arm and see if it is free to move up and down a bit (mine was not, the spherical ball was frozen in the outer race). Also the dead give away, once you remove that connection, the stabilator travels smoother and the stick front to back motion becomes smoother. In the process I made 2 tools that are worth showing: The first is a tool to compress the spring assembly in the tail. This is so you can disconnect the ball joint that connects the spring assembly to the pitch control bell crank. You need a couple 7 MM open end wrenches to do this, one regular and the other with a near right angle open end (because the ball joint post only has 2 flats on it, not a hex). The second is a tool to press out the Stabilator mount bracket axle bolt. It should push out easily, but in my 13 year old CT it did not. I tried tapping it out and it jammed (big time). I bought a chop saw so that I could make the wood pieces nice and true. Eric Swisher shared a link showing what the pitch control cable is made of, thanks Eric! It is supposedly maintenance free except the end rods can be lubed: http://www.flexballitaliana.com/prodotto.php?idprodotto=80 Speaking of lube, I will show what I bought for that, thanks to recommendation from Roger Lee, you da man Roger!!! And the last picture is the culprit: The frozen up spherical bearing. By the way, all the friction points in the tail needed to be lubed (I used the iNox MX3 with the injection needle, they also make spray, I think the needle version is best).
  14. Nice bike! Very creative getting it in (pretty similar to my mounting). I think you should work out some way to assure the bike cannot shift. Mine is even scarier than yours because I have cables that come close to the control stick. Enjoy your combination hobby! Thanks for sharing the pics.
  15. Still had the binding when I hooked up the elevator cable rod end to the bell crank again! There is a spherical bearing at the rear cable mount bracket. It will not swivel at all. I lubed it with the iNox, but no luck. I also noticed that the cable rod end is not lined up well with the hole in the bell crank. When I force the rod end down during connection, that is when the binding happens. I did a little search (because the parts manual says it is a GE 12 E bearing, and I found it pretty cheap on eBay and bought it (SKF GE 12 E made in Germany). In a bit I will go back out to my hangar and try to disconnect the front and rear cable mount brackets and see if I can move the whole cable assembly back far enough to get to the rear cable mount bracket assembly and work on it (free up the spherical bearing or remove it). Anybody had this issue? Anybody move the whole elevator cable assembly back?
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