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About ibjet

  • Rank
    Master Crew Member

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  • Location
    Kingman, AZ, USA
  • Interests
    Flying, mountain biking, dancing, singing (Karaoke), camping, hiking, do-it-yourselfer.
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  1. Door Lever Guide Plate

    Sorry folks this is off subject a bit . . . Thanks Roger, I will get silicone paste to lube the door handle/plate and the pins. My door is latching pretty easily now that I put on the new hinges. It is centered in the door opening better too. My door weather stripping is old. I may have a problem when I install new weather stripping. I will plan to latch the doors from the outside and leave them latched so the rubber takes a set. I bought the weather stripping "carrier" (extruded, metal reinforced "U" channel). I was planning to buy the "D" ring weather stripping separate. Then I got a part number from Arian at FD for the complete seal with "D" ring weather strip included (from McMaster -Carr). So, not sure what I will do. Question: Have you ever bought just the channel strip and glued on the "D" ring? I will do that if I can find a good glue to attach the 2 strips. Maybe just use contact cement, but I think there is a better specialty glue for that purpose. I will let all know how well my 3D printed parts hold up.
  2. Door Lever Guide Plate

    It fits!!! No C'sinks yet, just a test fit. Latched and unlatched a couple of times, seems to work fine! 😁
  3. Door Lever Guide Plate

    Progress report . . . I had a couple of false starts printing my first part (after printing the supplied test part I realized my file was behaving normally). It goes thru a dry run of the first layer. Then I ran a part for over an hour and my back bedroom (laboratory, ha ha) circuit breaker tripped (when I turned on an extra light)! So, now (with all LED lights in my lab) it printed completely as shown below. I just realized that the top flange is about .012" thinner than the original part! That is baffling because the hole pattern appears to be very accurate (and has to be). I'll check out my model and add about .020" thickness to that flange (make it a tiny bit thicker than the stock part). The part comes out looking like a carbon fiber part, but this is made with "PLA +" filament. OK, I'll update when I try a part in my CT.
  4. Door Lever Guide Plate

    Roger - I need to lube my door latch linkage (annual in process). I figured I would use a greaseless spray lube for the metal to metal joints. But I"m not sure what kind of lube to use on the 3 locking pins that slide in the composite door. I'm picturing a clear grease that I can smear on the pins. But, it needs to be something that will not attack the resin in the composite. I think you already talked about his in an earlier post, I'll go look. About the plastic parts breaking, on mine, it looks like they broke when people were unlatching the door, moving the lever sideways (too forcefully) and hitting the thinnest section of the plate. But, also mine are distorted where the lever rests on the plate when latched closed. I think my CT sat out in some hot summer days with the doors locked. The sun and heat got to the plastic. I wish I knew what the current material is, I think it is Delrin. That is very machinable and I was planning to buy that from McMaster and machine them. I just researched the Carbon Fiber filament. The most popular one is made with 70% PLA and 30% Carbon Fiber. Users love it and say the parts are very rigid. Anyway Roger, as I said this is just experimenting for now. I wanted to try my hand at 3D modeling (again, used Solid Works for my last company) and at 3D Printing (I love it so far, even though my first 2 prints failed on the first layer, ha ha). ET
  5. Door Lever Guide Plate

    I read that I can use carbon fiber filament in my 3D printer. I think that would be hard to beat!!! But, yes, machining from a very strong plastic bar stock or sheet would be a good way to go. I did this project rather than buy a hobby CNC mill. But, the fact that the stock plastic parts are breaking (and mine are also warped), means there is a change needed. I will research the carbon fiber filament and hopefully try that. I'll advise . . .
  6. Door Lever Guide Plate

    Both of mine broke in the same place (see picture). I am assembling my 3 D printer today. I just did a 3 D print preview. All seems so daunting right now, ha ha. But, I love challenges. I saw that I can use ABS filament with my printer, so I'll probably order a spool of that next (it is a bit harder to use). PLA is the easiest to use and best all around. Yes, I"ll let you know my progress and post pictures . . .
  7. I recently decided to order a 3 D Printer. I have 2 broken plastic parts in my cabin that I will remake with PLA plastic. Not at all sure if they will hold up, but I can always go for a more exotic filament material later. I used TinkerCAD to create a 3 D model of the part (it's very easy to mirror the part for the other side). I will update this post once I install the parts and find out how well they hold up. I looked on the FD parts manual and they do not show a part number or name for them. I call it Door Lever Guide Plate. My broken part has a P/N A101359. I would be willing to share my 3 D model with anyone who wants to try this. The front and rear mount holes are fairly critical for fit, they are 200 MM apart in my CT. The middle hole has a floating fastener, so location is not critical for fit. That floating fastener falls into the door cavity if you unscrew the screw completely!!!
  8. Fuel filter

    Doing my first annual and wanted to add a comment here . . . I tested my fuel flow and was way below the minimum. But, I read here (from Roger) that the gas flow was much better with the gascolator bowl removed during this test. So today I re-tested my left (slower) tank with the gascolator bowl removed, and the flow was well above 10 gph. I was already psyching myself up to pulling the wings, so I was very happy that I tried the flow test this way. Thanks Roger, you are once again my hero!!! I will email Arian at FD and recommend that they state that my be required. In my case the gascolator drain valve was limiting the flow and nothing I would have done would improve the flow thru it. Jezzz, that fuel filter is hard to get to!!! Sure was relieved that I had the metal one!!! ET
  9. I'm doing my annual and I noticed a throttle cable routing problem. I assume my mechanic (where I purchased my CTSW in Tulsa, OK) routed the cables that way because it was easier for him to tighten/adjust them. But, the cables were rubbing against the cable housing end fitting and they were pulling at quite an angle. I also came up with a way to take the slack out of the throttle cable while I was tightening the cable (see mini vice grips and tie wrap in second picture). To tighten the cable clamp fitting I used an open end wrench and needle nose pliers (but you could cut down an allen wrench very short to get to the allen socket in the clamp bolt). I also reversed the throttle spring to hold it against the idle adjustment stop during this process (picture does not show that). I'd love to hear any feed back on this, anybody doing it this way??? I'm thinking this has to be the correct way.
  10. Air filter removal

    Thanks Roger, when I grow up I wanna be like you, ha ha!!! I really appreciate your helpfulness. I do have one tie wrap laterally around the filter. I assumed it was keeping me from pulling the filter out. I was thinking I would try to reach in and cut that tie wrap today. I'll do another reply here wth any updates. I found a problem with my throttle cable routing. I'll do another post with before and after pictures. I'd love to hear your take on that. Again thanks Roger ET
  11. Air filter removal

    Tried to remove my air filter this evening on my 2006 CTSW. Removed the 4 screws that hold the air cleaner housing to the firewall, but it will not tilt forward very much. I tried to pull the filter out, but it would not come out. I suppose I can "tear it out", but hate to pull that hard. I'd love to hear from anyone that has done this. Thanks, ET
  12. ADS-B Installation

    Thanks for the chuckle! It is composite, ha ha!
  13. ADS-B Installation

    Hi Bill, Wow, thanks for the info. I guess that is probably the way I will end up going. I have not gotten any usable instructions from Dallas Avionics yet for how to install my version of the Navworx. Apparently they (Navworx) never created a version of the installation manual covering my part number. They (Dallas Avionics) sent me a manual for the ADS600-B but it covers several different part numbers, none of them mine and I could not even match up my unit to any of them by comparing the weight. I keep asking them to send me installation instructions covering my version, or send me a return authorization. I told them even if they just tell me which part number mine is "the same as" I would proceed. I'm toying with the idea of filing a small claims case against them, but I don't know if they are legally liable (they sold me an ADS-B with no installation instructions). I have kept myself busy doing a couple or repairs on my CT and installing an AvMap EFIS. My latest diversion was the purchase and assembly of a ventless fireplace (it uses gel fuel, but I plan to install a ventless propane firelog). Can you tell me what that Uavionix system cost you (with the GPS)? Can you share a picture(s) with me (or here on CTflier)? I bought a mini iPad for Karaoke but I have not been able to upload any Karaoke files to it, so I may install it in my CT. Is that what you are using to display your ADS-B In map? I think Foreflight is an Apple APP, isn't it? Thank you so much Bill for all the info. You are a very productive man, wish I had your drive!!! ET ibjet@me.com
  14. Trouble latching door(s)

    Thanks to all, and thank you very much Roger for that detailed description of remounting when neccessary. I had thought I would make up custom offset hinges if my hinge holes were mis-aligned (but they weren't). I had assumed Flight Design was gonna be out of stock on the hinges, but they weren't either. I gotta get some silicon grease. Hinges due in on the 10th, then I gotta teach myself to fly again, ha ha. Happy flying all!!! ET