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ibjet

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About ibjet

  • Rank
    Senior Crew Member

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  • Location
    Kingman, AZ, USA
  • Interests
    Flying, mountain biking, dancing, singing (Karaoke), camping, hiking, do-it-yourselfer.
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    Male

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  1. ibjet

    Engine removal

    AGLyme: My engine was sagging making my spinner come too close to the lower engine cowling. I decided I did not want to try to force it back together with my new engine mount rubber. Pre-loading a structure in aviation is a big no-no. The pictures in my MRA posted above (Feb 9) tell the story pictorially (sheet 3, 4, 5). FD USA said I should "use as is" based on "well, it worked before". I requested someone with design cognizance (FD Europe, Engineering Dept) review and advise. I don't think FD USA forwarded my request, but I did my MRA, submitted to FD Europe, and CC'd FD USA. I'm up to my 3rd iteration of configurations that I have offered to repair my Engine Mount. They have not said "use as is", they have offered me $1,200 discount on a new Engine Mount, and they have had issues with all my repair configurations (but I have not heard back on my last submittal). Tom Baker: I do not like to delve into "legal" procedures. I genuinely did not know if I could use some procedure to authorize a repair thru the steps that would be used for general aviation. The FAA created the LSA class and the rules and they modify them at will thru there existing process, as they are doing currently. I am well aware that the procedure requires me to request approval thru the Mfr. for any repair not in there existing manuals or blanket MRA's, that's what I'm doing. I do believe I would have the legal right to ask for financial compensation for this effort because they sold an airplane with an Engine Mount that did not meet their drawing. But, I figured I would just negotiate my best way out of this and go for it. Thanks again for your input gentlemen! ET
  2. ibjet

    Engine removal

    It's official, FD Europe is offering me a new Engine Mount for $2,000 + shipping. AirTime Aviation has one in stock and they are offering it to me $10 cheaper than the price FD USA quoted me, ha ha. I asked them (Nataliya!) if I could purchase from AirTime and get a rebate from FD Europe to get me down to $2,000. But, I submitted another iteration in my proposed repair work (they said that lateral welds would not be advisable and I remembered they are right). So, I edited a picture again and showed longitudinal welds and stiffeners added to all 4 sides of the rectangular tubing. But, the shocker was that they said load testing would be required! I don't seem to have anyone here interested in my repair (which is actually my plan B now) but I will show my 2 latest edited photo's that I submitted to FD Europe: BTW: If FD Europe offered me a $1,200 discount, I think they are not too proud of my existing Engine Mount. I thought they would make me prove the dimensional error, which I intend to measure more accurately. I have requested a digital copy of the Engine Mount Dwg several times and they have ignored my request. But, yes, I have to get approval from them to do any significant repair. Not sure if I could use an FAA Certified Engineer to approve a repair (via submittal to the FAA), but that would be bucking the system.
  3. ibjet

    Engine removal

    AGLyme: General Aviation airplanes get modified in the field all the time. My M20C Mooney had a huge stiffener plate added to the left and right wing spars to repair corrosion that was caused by sealant stripper. There was a design submitted to the FAA done by a mechanical engineer who was FAA Certified. You just have to go thru the correct procedure. Andy: A conference between Arian and Tom at FD USA does not constitute Factory Advise. See my update below, apparently "The Factory" is concerned enough to offer me a healthy discount on a new Engine Mount! But, regarding the mis-located engine mount tube: Look at my MRA, Sheet 5. How much torque do you think it would take to align that lower left engine mount tube with the hole in the Engine Frame? I'm guessing about 100 ft/lbs (oh, you also have to pull it sideways too). Now, once you achieve that and you have your engine assembled, see what happens after a couple of years of flying (see MRA, sheet 4). You have metal to metal contact within the lower left engine mount tube. Engines are rubber mounted to isolate out vibration. So, is 3 out of 4 close enough? Come to think of it, my level of engine noise in the cabin is very high (I don't have any other CT's around to compare it to). I bet it will be much quieter once I get it back together with new rubber. But, the vibration has many undesirable affects. I assume my airplane has been like this from day 1. Does that mean I should re-assemble it like that, HELL NO! In aviation, when you see a significant issue you get it evaluated by experts and then you do "the right thing". I do have 2 updates: 1). Tom Peghiny called me a while ago and said they are offering me a new Engine Mount for $2000 plus shipping (about $1200 off list). 2). Natalia says engineering wants stiffeners and a load test afterwards! I plan to add stiffeners to my photo edit and show Natalia my straightening fixture, which I can use to proof load one leg of the mount at a time. I have a 440 lb. digital scale but I'll probably have to get a 1 ton digital scale or load cell. Pretty sure I'll go with the new Engine Mount, but I'll first go to UPS and give them the estimated weight and box size and ask how much shipping would be. Appreciate the input Gentlemen! ET
  4. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Surprisingly, I heard back from Flight Design Europe already, "Natalia" answered me, ha ha. She said they could not approve my request because I was altering the configuration of the part (meaning that the strength evaluations would not be valid). I replied, and asked if they could give me some help on the price of a new Engine Mount (since it they built it with a 1/4" error in the one engine mount tube). Then this evening I realized I could fix the part (actually more simply) and not alter the configuration. I sent this photo edit to her . . .
  5. ibjet

    Engine removal

    I sent a 7 page MRA to Flight Design in Europe, with a copy to Arian. Thought I would see if I could share it here (.pdf). I bought a mini surface plate and I'm making a 24" height gauge (from a 24" digital read out) so that I can know more accurately what the dimensions are. MRA - Engine Mount all pages.pdf
  6. I did not read every entry here, but my thought (what I would do) is to disconnect the aileron control rods where they exit the wing to see how that effects the stick force and to see how much drag there is at that point. I have not looked at the manual to see how you would access those 2 connections. Hey, love that picture, thanks! ET
  7. OMG, I was going to say you have to hangar that baby, but I see you are in Hawaii. That would cost "a pretty penny"! My CT was apparently tied down outside quite a stretch. As a result the swivel bearing in the tail of the airplane froze up (rusted). Drove me crazy trying to find out what was causing my stabilator to be bindy. Well, I assume your wing roots have gap seal tape? The mechanic that I used when I bought my airplane did not put it on and so I finally did. Anyway, if it does not have the gap seal tape, that's a must for you. I can look up where I bought it if you need to buy. That's gotta be a beautiful place to fly! ET
  8. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Arian at Flight Design USA sent me the Engine Mount Installation drawing and after studying that, checking out my Engine Mount, I realized that the problem was 95% with the lower left engine mount tube. It was fabricated mis-located about 1/4 inch! Arian said that there were no approved repairs for the Engine Mount and that they wouldn't be able to do any. He said that he and Tom had discussed it at length and they recommended that I use it "as is"! I told him that it must not meet the weldment Drawing and I requested that they submit the problem to someone with Design Cognizance. Also requested they get me a copy of the weldment drawing. This evening I sent him an illustration showing my idea of a weld repair and asked him to negotiate an MRA with Flight Design. He had earlier told me that they have some Engine Mounts on order, they are about $3200! He also recommended that I might talk to AirTime in Tulsa about a possible used engine mount. I think they will feel compelled to help me. I have a discrepant part that Flight Design installed/signed off on!
  9. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Thanks for the input gentlemen. I will keep y'all posted.
  10. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Aircraft grade steel tubing is what's called High Strength Low Alloy, or Chrome Moly, or 4130. For weldments it is furnished in condition N (normalized). It is heated up to about 1100/1200 degrees at the weld locations during welding. When done in a factory setting it is stress relieved after welding or forming. That is what I will be doing is a stress relieve. I emailed Arian yesterday, I'm sure he won't see it until Monday. I described my process to him in detail. I was planning to turn off the lights in my garage when I do the heating so that I can see when the mount just begins to glow red. I saw on Amazon that they have infrared thermometer guns for under $20. BTW: I decided I would need to heat the weldment to avoid over stressing it. It is very springy and when cold straightened you have to over bend it quite a bit to get the shape you want. By the repeated bend, heat, cool cycles you minimize the over bending and stress relieve each time. And yes, I will have to do what Flight Design says. But, if they say that it can't be straightened and re-used, they would be going against established practices in aerospace.
  11. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Finished and tried out my straightening fixture last night. I deflected the mount quite a bit, but lost most of the straightening once I released the jack. Decided I had to replace the wood block on the top right so ordered approx. same size of aluminum bar. Also decided I would have to heat it up to straighten without stressing it too much. My Oxy-Acetylene set is very old, so I ordered a new kit that has the heating torch (they call a "rose bud" for slang). I will replace the jack with an adjustable metal "jack stand" just before I torch. I will jack, heat, cool, jack, heat, cool repeatedly until I get the correct hole pattern. I requested a drawing of the Large Engine Mount from Arian and told him my straightening method. They will probably want me to submit an MRA.
  12. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Wanted to further evaluate the mis-alignment I saw in my engine mount (my lower left mount was visibly "sagging"). After several measurements on the T frame and the engine ring, I finally realized that YES, MY T FRAME WAS BENT! I inserted a picture with a red arrow showing where the bend occurred. I will build a wood box structure that I can put the T frame in and apply pressure from a hydraulic jack and force that leg back into place. I'll post a picture. Not sure how I can "prove" that leg in OK once I straighten, but the bend is so slight, that I'm pretty sure it will be fine. I have an A.I. friend at my airport, I'll get his opinion. I will penetrant inspect if nothing else. Thanks for the heads up on the bending issue Tom Baker! I still can't believe it is bent and there is no other damage to the airplane (that I can see). I did have one rough landing but did not think it was hard enough to do any damage. It's almost gotta be from that because the airplane had a 5 year rubber change when I bought it!!!
  13. ibjet

    Engine removal

    I finally got my coolant leak tester to work and now holds at 18 psi. I'm replacing the 1" hose that goes to the coolant pump elbow since it was the main leak and had some damage. Just wanted to say that draining the coolant and testing with only air pressure worked very well (bubble tested every hose end with soap solution). I had a very slow bleed down of pressure, turned out that my test cap needed a thicker rubber washer (found that out because bubbles were coming out the overflow tube! Also wanted to "brag" that my engine sling (the part that I bought from Harbor Freight, and my modifications) worked very well. I was able to balance the engine by cranking the lever and moving the lift point fore and aft. I removed the nose wheel to work on my nose wheel fork and it was easy to re-balance the engine. BTW: I did use a piece of angle tie wrapped to the shop crane hydraulic cylinder so that it cannot bleed down and let the engine lower itself. Thanks for that advice John Horn!!!
  14. ibjet

    Engine removal

    I have delayed my project but going back to my hangar tomorrow. I want to make sure I find all the leaks in my coolant system. Not sure if any of you have a coolant leak tester (I modified a "universal" leak tester set so that it fits the rotax plenum). Question: Anybody tried leak testing a drained coolant system by pressuring with air only and spraying all the connections with soapy water? I hate to just remove all the hoses when only 1 or 2 connections are leaking. Anyway, I'll assume it's a brilliant idea until I prove myself wrong, ha ha. ET
  15. ibjet

    Engine removal

    Thanks Tom! I am concerned that the left lower engine mount is somehow distorted. You can see that the bolt is not aligned with the engine mount tube on the T frame. I'll remove the T frame and engine mount ring and make a bunch of measurements and see if I can get it to line up better with the new rubber I got from Roger Lee.
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