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ibjet

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About ibjet

  • Rank
    Senior Crew Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kingman, AZ, USA
  • Interests
    Flying, mountain biking, dancing, singing (Karaoke), camping, hiking, do-it-yourselfer.
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Just caught up on a bunch of inputs here (dang, I didn't have "notify me . . ." clicked). Thanks guys for all the input. Well, Riddle me this (ha ha): This afternoon, I removed the cable end connection in the tail. I reached for the stabilator right away, and it moved very freely. So, I went into the cabin and took off the center console covers. But, before trying to disconnect the cable end there, I moved the control stick fore and aft - it was very free to move also! I hate it when mechanical things baffle me - that's not fair, ha ha. Tomorrow I'll go back to the hanger and scratch my head some more!!!
  2. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    Boo hoo, the folding mountain bike does not fit (see picture). Hmmm, wait a minute . . . Update on 12-5-2018: Not being one who gives up easily, I decided that I will make this work! I'm going to make a sling that will allow me to lift up the bike and then rotate it to horizontal and move it into the cabin, and then rotate it back vertical. I'm thinking 4 short lengths of thin wall alum tubing, some SS cables and a brass pully. Can't start a "fly in mountain biking club" unless I do this, ha ha. Probably over a week before I have this ready to try, but I'll post pictures . . .
  3. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    Thanks for the discussion guys! I did not have any problem with the bike interfering with the right stick, but the bike cables loop around and come very close. I was tickled to hear the idea about removing the stick, and to hear that it is only 2 bolts, and I have all the connectors to make the mic switch wires quick disconnect. I did not mention my next goal: I love to mountain bike and so last week I searched for a folding mountain bike. I found one that looked pretty good and was about the same price as the Vilano. So, on an impulse I bought it! Then I felt crazy because it is gonna be a really tough fit! I actually think I can do it, but it will take a different rack to mount it on. I assembled the bike last night, so I'll share a couple of pics . . . So, if successful, I will create a new hobby: Fly in mountain biking, ha ha. My first trip will be to Sedona (there is a "secret trail" going around the airport mesa!
  4. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    I didn't realize this Accessories category is under Avionics! Sorry, and I don't quite know how to move it or what category to put in under! But, I'll try . . .
  5. There's not really a good category for this discussion but I wanted to share my joy with being able to load in my folding bike. I used to have 2 Dahon folding bikes and nylon bags for them and had a blast doing fly in vacations. Fav was flying into Columbia Airport in CA. They have a campground and hot showers and a freezer with bagged ice. The town is a restored mining town and very fun to sight see. Anyway, when I went shopping Dahon bikes were very expensive, so I ended up buying a Vilano folding bike for under $200, I think it was $159. OK, so the problem was, it would not fit thru the cargo door or even the rectangular opening behind the seat. I loaded it into the passenger seat a time or 2, but it was very cumbersome. So, this past week, I designed and built a platform that takes the place of the passenger seat and gives a place to firmly mount a folding bike. I used the last 2 holes in the seat rails as the main attach points. In the rear of the platform it just sits on the landing gear bolt boss that is visible when you remove the seat. I'm attaching 5 pictures I took when I finally installed it. I did a 3D model of it, that I hand dimensioned if anybody would want to duplicate this. The last picture shows a solid link bar to keep the bike from rotating back or forward. The Vilano is an all aluminum frame and I'm really happy with it, now that I can bring it along easily. I'm definitely going to Columbia this spring!!!
  6. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    I remember seeing them. I'll have to hunt that down. Now that I have white and clear vinyl sticky back printer paper, I can remake just about any marking. Thanks Tom!
  7. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    I have latched and unlatched my doors probably 20 times since installing the 3D printed replacement plastic door lever guides. They are holding up just fine so far. I do not see any wearing. The lever does have quite a bit of spring pressure inward (pulls toward Aircraft center line) and so I do see my parts flex a little bit. I was not sure what the original door markings were, so I just made up what made sense to me. Took a picture of the pilots side yesterday. I took a beautiful flight down to Lake Havasu and had an early dinner. The restaurant is more like a rustic night club. They even have bands on the weekend! New favorite short trip!
  8. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Thank you so much Eric! Wow, never would have guessed that it had ball bearings, amazing. So, I need to disconnect both ends and see if the binding is in the cable! I think I will remove my Stabilator and my dorsal fin (has a crack I need to repair). I guess this is as good a time as any to have my bird in pieces, ha ha. Thanks all, what a great resource this Forum is, that's amazing too! ET
  9. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I am talking about the push/pull cable that operates the stabilator (front to back motion of the stick). It is a cable in a semi-rigid tubular housing. It does have steel threaded rod ends. It is a pretty straight shot from the actuator in the front to the actuator in the back. So, I assumed you could pull it out of the housing and clean off all the old thickened grease. Apparently Roger has tried it or heard a horror story from someone who did. I like the idea of taking off the stabilator. The mechanisms just in front of it are a big mystery to me, so I will really enjoy getting to know them, ha ha. I also assumed that the problem was due to the cold weather. Hmmm, I have a ceramic heater in the hangar, thinking I could remove a seat, and the cover behind it and run that heater for a few hours in the closed up cabin. Anyway, I'm thinking if I don't find a problem in the rear actuator, I can still disconnect both ends of the cable, run it forward as far as safe, clean the front portion and lube it. Then run it back as far as safe and clean the rear portion and lube it. I'm thinking I may be able to make a bullet nosed guide that I could slip over the rod end to keep it from jamming??? OK, I will proceed with caution. Thanks to all. Roger, you probably saved me from a nightmare, thank you! No answers about what to lube the ends with? I think the silicon paste will be a good choice. I will let all know how it comes out. By the way, my doors which were latching very beautifully, are now getting hard to latch again with the cold weather! Amazing because my door seals are very old and need to be replaced (I have the 2 pieces that I need in bulk length). Almost afraid to do it now! I'll measure the old and new before I do that. Maybe the new will flex easier. Happy Thanksgiving guys! ET
  10. I just recently started flying my CTSW again. It took me "forever and a day" to do my annual (first time, nobody local with a CT or even a Rotax). So, now that I am flying and it's getting cold in Kingman, I'm noticing that my stabilator is sticking when I move it up (I can feel it binding when I move it back toward center travel, not a good thing on short final! I looked at the cable ends and it seems like the best thing is to take off the dorsal fin and remove the cable out the rear of the airplane. QUESTIONS: 1). Is this how to lube it? 2). What lube should I use? I have the silicone paste, thinking that would be good because it will not thicken in cold weather???
  11. ibjet

    Instrument Panel Light

    OK, my installation of the flashlight and wiring into my electrical system is complete. I'm posting a bunch of pictures I took along the way. I'm including also a picture with only the Crazed Pilot string LED light system turned on. Definitely not a good system (the angle that the light strikes the panel just does not work). But, it's wired separately now and so it will be my back up light which is great to have. I think I will remove the right panel and turn the voltage down a bit on the buck converter board, maybe to 1.2VDC because the cockpit light is a bit brighter than what I need. You don't want to go stronger than what you need of course, keep your vision out the windshield at it's best. Hmmm, the Crazed Pilot light system has a dimmer switch, maybe I can wire that to work with the Cockpit light also . . . Oh, it doesn't show, but I mounted the buck converter board to a thin piece of aluminum using the stand off's provided with it. Then, I mounted the buck converter with Velcro to the rear face of the right instrument panel. I was kind of worried that it might cause interference some how, but it does not as far as I have noticed so far.
  12. ibjet

    Instrument Panel Light

    Hi Mike, very creative! I was tickled by your past planes, I too had a C-150, and M20C. I'm finding the CTSW is great for a retirement plane. Posting a pic of the 62 Mooney, I had just repainted all the trim, and just rolled it into my new hangar, about 1987. The Mooney sure was a lot easier to land than the CTSW!!! But, I make everybody jealous by taking the first turn out after touching down, ha ha.
  13. ibjet

    Instrument Panel Light

    Just in case anybody is interested in this cabin light idea . . . I finally got around to making the dummy battery (wood dowel, 2 brass screws, and some soldering). And so I did a bench test of my idea. The buck volt converter had no instructions, but I just went back to the instructions in the Amazon listing. I adjusted it to 1.5 volts, but I might decide to reduce it when I re-install the flashlight/wire it up. I have the 2 circuit breakers that I need (one says instrument panel light, the other says cabin light). But, I only have one toggle on/off switch in my center panel. So, I will install an extra toggle switch along side my dimmer switch that goes with my strip LED panel light kit. I'll be glad not to have confusing markings (I'm re-doing them with my clear vinyl sticky back printer paper). If you are doing any amount of night flying, it's really great to have 2 interior light systems (I had a bulb burn out in my Mooney many years ago and my spare bulb pack was empty! Luckily, their light system was 2 lights and I was able to see well enough. BTW, the better flashlight is (single mode, the 3 mode changes modes every time you cut power): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3SY4LG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  14. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    I need to correct myself: Apparently the oil temp gauge and the CHT gauge do not have the same circuitry (I assumed so because they both use the same sensor). I went to a lot of pains to remark my new oil temp gauge identically to my old CHT gauge and installed it yesterday and flew it. The new gauge never registered any heat. My overhauled oil temp gauge works fine and my temp went into about the middle of the green arc. So, I have an ASI that I need to return to UMA, and I'll send them my old CHT for rebuild also. Some one told me that the UMA ASI is not rebuildable, but they say it is. I'll give it a shot. I installed an ASI that I bought from Aircraft Spruce and didn't realize it was calibrated in MPH! I'm sending in the old ASI to correct that issue. My CTSW is flying so nice now. Love it. Gonna show off my latest pic in flight (not easy to take a pic with one hand, ha ha).
  15. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    Ha ha, you really thought about this Mike! I did find a printer like device that is meant for trimming printed media. It sells for around $140 on Amazon: Silhouette Curio Cutting Tool But for markings for those little gauges, I'll do a full scale marking drawing in Corel Draw, print it out on white sticky back vinyl, and then trim away the excess with an exacto blade, new scissors, etc. It's gotta look neat. Otherwise, I may just send my old CHT back to UMA, my oil temp gauge overhaul was only $50, amazing!
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