Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ibjet

  1. By error I ordered the wrong radiator cap (the old 13 psi version) but I thought it might eliminate my slow coolant leak. Well, that was a pipe dream, ha ha. Still have the leak and I want to pressure test my system so I can isolate the leak. I have an idea of how to make up a pressure test system. But, I'm wondering if anyone has found a standard pressure tester or pressure test adapter (I have the standard Stuart tester). Anybody already been there done that? Thanks in advance good people! ET (Ed Tichenor)
  2. ADS-B Installation

    Thanks for the chuckle! It is composite, ha ha!
  3. ADS-B Installation

    I impulsively decided to order the Nav Worx ADS-B package for LSA's / Experimental's yesterday (that's ADS600-EXP). I had a notice from the FAA that their rebate offer was expiring, but I don't think it applies to LSA (I will research that, I have a few days to apply). For now, I was wondering if any CT owners/flyers have ordered or installed the Nav Worx ADS-B system? If so, you might get a visit from N40HA, hee hee.
  4. ADS-B Installation

    Hi Bill, Wow, thanks for the info. I guess that is probably the way I will end up going. I have not gotten any usable instructions from Dallas Avionics yet for how to install my version of the Navworx. Apparently they (Navworx) never created a version of the installation manual covering my part number. They (Dallas Avionics) sent me a manual for the ADS600-B but it covers several different part numbers, none of them mine and I could not even match up my unit to any of them by comparing the weight. I keep asking them to send me installation instructions covering my version, or send me a return authorization. I told them even if they just tell me which part number mine is "the same as" I would proceed. I'm toying with the idea of filing a small claims case against them, but I don't know if they are legally liable (they sold me an ADS-B with no installation instructions). I have kept myself busy doing a couple or repairs on my CT and installing an AvMap EFIS. My latest diversion was the purchase and assembly of a ventless fireplace (it uses gel fuel, but I plan to install a ventless propane firelog). Can you tell me what that Uavionix system cost you (with the GPS)? Can you share a picture(s) with me (or here on CTflier)? I bought a mini iPad for Karaoke but I have not been able to upload any Karaoke files to it, so I may install it in my CT. Is that what you are using to display your ADS-B In map? I think Foreflight is an Apple APP, isn't it? Thank you so much Bill for all the info. You are a very productive man, wish I had your drive!!! ET ibjet@me.com
  5. Trouble latching door(s)

    Thanks to all, and thank you very much Roger for that detailed description of remounting when neccessary. I had thought I would make up custom offset hinges if my hinge holes were mis-aligned (but they weren't). I had assumed Flight Design was gonna be out of stock on the hinges, but they weren't either. I gotta get some silicon grease. Hinges due in on the 10th, then I gotta teach myself to fly again, ha ha. Happy flying all!!! ET
  6. The other evening I was going to go flying with a friend. We were going to take a video of the most decorated home in Kingman (Christmas lights +++). I got him safely buckled in and his door latched. Then I tried to latch my door and it would not latch. He had driven 40 miles to do this with me, so I gave it another try and the door latch lever went all the way, but it was jammed. I had a very difficult time unlatching the door. When I got out, and lowered the door near the latched position, I realized that the forward latch pin had jammed and it looked like it had actually bent the hinges because the door was no longer centered in the opening. Tonight I went back thinking I would remove the door and I had assumed that the hinges were bent. But, looking them over, they seem to be straight. I also had thought that there probably are shims where the hinges mount, but it did not appear so. I ended up latching the door from outside (reached thru the sliding window and pulled the front of the door up and latched it. I'm planning to go back tomorrow evening and see if I can latch the door from the inside by pulling it up and inward in the front. I'm also thinking about adding a handle down below the latch access cover to enable pulling the door into position better. I'm also thinking that I will leave the door latched all the time. Thinking this will make it easier to latch. I cringe to write this because it's pretty silly to think that the door could "take a set". I get goofy/wishful thinking now and then, ha ha. OK, I'm just hoping some of you have experienced this and gained insights that you can share with me. I will probably end up removing that left side door, but can anyone tell me if there are shims under the hinges? That would allow you to rig the door in the door jam, which is what I need to do. If I do remove the door, of course I will remove the hinges and see if they are bent. Thanks in advance for any input. ET
  7. Trouble latching door(s)

    Update: I made a shelf looking thingy (ha ha) to rest the door on while I detached the hinges from the fuselage. Wouldn't you know it, the day I used it there were 2 guys in the hangar next door, coulda just used their help. Anyway, then I finished removing the hinges from the door. Then I used a fine mechanical pencil to make witness marks there the screw holes were on the exterior of the door and the fuselage. Then I put the door back in the door opening, reached thru the window vent, and latched the door. The door was well centered and the hinge holes in the door and fuselage were very well aligned. So, the issue I had was: When I forced the door latch lever closed, the forward latch was pushing on the door sill (did not go into the hole) and pushed the door reward so hard that it bent the hinge and ruined the countersinks even (posting a picture of one hinge). So, the good news and the bad news: Flight Design had hinges in stock, the price for those little bitty things was $46.XX each! Order total for 2 with delivery to AZ was $103.XX. I will put a handle on the inside of the door so I can pull it all the way closed before I latch it. I found a very light 2 screw handle at "the aviation department of Home Depot" ha ha. Hopefully it will be strong enough, if not I will use a handle with 4 mounting holes. Moral of the story: Don't force the door latch lever!!!
  8. Trouble latching door(s)

    Minor update: After pulling the door into place and latching it (by reaching thru the sliding window), I left it latched and went back in 3 days. After unlatching it and checking, the mis-alignment had not changed a bit, errrrrr, (not like it was a surprise, but I just had to see). I'm baffled how this happened because my hinges do not look bent, distorted. I'm 99% sure the front latch pin never went into it's hole when I forced the door latch closed. So, my next step was to remove the door. I was planning to support the weight with a cinch strap around the wing. I dared not proceed with that, the forward portion of the door sticks forward of the wing leading edge, the door would tear the hinges off as I removed the final screws. So, I will build a really simple rack for the door to sit on while I disconnect the hinges (I always devise a way to do a chore solo, being a retired aerospace manufacturing engineer). I will remove the hinges completely, mark where the hinge holes are on the outside of the door and fuselage, and reinstall the door without the hinges (I will shim it into the best fit I can rig). Then I will decide how to fix the problem by 1. Making shims where the hinges mount (to tilt the door) or 2. Buy blank hinge material and remake the hinges with the hole pattern shifted so I can float the door into place. If so, I will probably have to make offset hinge halves (because they mount into recesses in the door and the fuselage. I bought a mini milling machine just for working on the airplane, so I can do this. I guess before I launch into this, I'll do a little illustration and send to Arian Foldan at Flight Design for input. I will share pictures with my pals here. Thank you all so much for your input guys!!! I will be installing internal door handles (found really light ones at Home Depot Aerospace, ha ha).
  9. Trouble latching door(s)

    That is what I plan to do because I need to pull inward from the center of the door. The little grip area on the door is too far back.
  10. Coolant system pressure leak test

    I ordered it from eBay. Here is a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/14Pc-Radiator-Pressure-Cooling-System-Kit-Leak-Tester-Water-Tank-Adapter-w-Case/292249477094?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 I had to machine the bottom register of the pressure test adapter to about 1.060 dia. (it was about 1.100 dia, the Rotax reservoir filler neck that it must fit in is about 1.080 dia. but not very round). I used my mini milling machine as a lathe to do this turning. But, you could spin the part with a drill motor and grind off the material with a dremel motor with their cut off wheel. Then you could file the edges smooth with a file while still spinning with the drill motor. You can see by the picture above which one of the pressure test adapters I used. There is only one that looks like that.
  11. Coolant system pressure leak test

    Update: My last couple of flights I have lost no coolant, yaaaaaa! But, I'm still running the 13 psi cap and I won't keep that when summer comes. That pressure test system that I bought was a disappointment, none of all those test adapters fits. The problem is that Rotax designed a none standard cap. But, I took the closest test adapter, took it apart and put my old Rotax cap on it! Now I can pressure test my system at 17 psi ??? (1.2 bar). If any body wants to do this, I'll give you a run down. I thought that tester was pretty cheap, just checked and it was $59.XX. It is a very nice set. A guy has to have lots of tools, right???? ha ha.
  12. Anyone using a Avmap EFIS?

    I sent Arian a follow up message yesterday with more pictures of my lighting (those I posted above). And I told him I could switch to the Garmin version if Flight Design preffered (looks equivalent to me and it's $300 more). I also explained that I was a private pilot with a current medical and I wanted to exercise my VFR night flying privilage whatever it takes. I was very happy and pretty shocked to hear from him first thing this morning! I think he is probably severly overworked, that's what Corperate America does to their staff these days. Anyway, I attribute all my earnest efforts to document my request to the quick response. And a lot of luck and holiday spirit, ha ha. ET
  13. I love night flying (call me crazy) and I'm getting my CT set up for it. I have my landing light, panel and compass light but I realized, I'm just not safe unless I have an artificial horizon. In researching it, I found the AvMap Ultra EFIS which Aircraft Spruce sells (currently $899) and I'm thinking this is what I want. I did a little photo magic to see how it would fit in my left panel. I will move my tablet to the center panel (in place of the Garmin GPS). The AvMap EFIS has it's own GPS and they provide the antenna. It has self contained gyros and compass. You just have to provide power and hook it up to your pitot and static air lines. I just thought I would ask if anyone here has any experience with these or ideas plus or minus. Of course I'll do an email to Flight Design before I buy it. Thanks in advance. ET (Ed Tichenor)
  14. Anyone using a Avmap EFIS?

    Yaaaaaa! I got an email reply this morning from Arian Foldan saying "We can approve that installation"!!! I told him I would document my lighting additions along with it. I guess I will go ahead and order it today.
  15. Anyone using a Avmap EFIS?

    To bitten 192: Did you submit an MRA? I sent an email to Arian at Flight Design and I have not heard back from him. The issue I am concerned about is that the LSA Manufacturer has to approve the LSA for night flight. I told Arian I would do whatever it takes. But, he takes forever to get back to me. Anyway, I'm just curious if your CT was equipped with night flight capabilities as new. Or, if you equipped it later. I installed the Crazed Pilot red LED panel light system. I purchased a single red LED and installed in the compass light port and ran the wires to the terminal block that came with the Crazed Pilot panel light system. I have flown it at night and I'm convinced that I am safe and I meet the FAR's. It is equipped with position and beacon lights. I"d just like a little more info on your entry into night flight (I'm assuming that is why you wanted the EFIS)??? Thanks, ET
  16. Coolant system pressure leak test

    Next time I fly it, I will take off the cowls and do that thorough check out. Thx Roger.
  17. Coolant system pressure leak test

    Update: I decided to get a universal pressure tester, found it for only $59. Roger - my coolant reservoir is down about 1/2 inch from 2 flights. It had been staying almost unchanged even during early summer. I fixed one leak, added a new clamp on the right side. Stopped getting drips running down my exhaust pipe. Then, soon thereafter, I started seeing drips on the left side, added a clamp, stopped seeing drips there, but still loosing some coolant. Anyway, I just want to be able to pressure test it. I'm a tool guy, ha ha. I'll do another post once I try it. And, after my next fight, I'll pull the cowling and put cardboard under the engine. And inspect of course. And look at all the points that you fine folks have mentioned. Thx, ET
  18. Coolant system pressure leak test

    YOU DA MAN Roger!!! Thank you!!! I have some drips on the lower cowl, left side, close to the firewall. It happens over time after a flight. My pressure test adapter is a pretty simple idea. Maybe I'll do a drawing to share here. I just hate that I need to pull the cowling and try to catch it leaking while it's hot. But, thank you so much for the ideas Roger!!! ET
  19. Anyone using a Avmap EFIS?

    Thanks for the input. I viewed the web site and they are pretty comperable. I would feel good to have a Garmin product, but it is $300 more. I tried to compare and one of the first things I wanted to find out was the current draw. Gamin does not show it in their specifications page. I imagine it is in the users manual, but I did not open it. The AvMap uses 100 MA nominal at 12 V. I think I do like the Garmin display a bit better, but I did not see the "to heading" bug in their compass heading display (and the AvMap does show that in their EFIS view. Again thanks, I just might switch . . . Oh, and I agree, the digital age is totally awesome!
  20. ADS-B Installation

    Bummer! Are you sure your ADS600-EXP has the part number that is affected by the AD? My ADS600 has a newer part number, 200-5012. Kyle Cobble (main author of the AD) told me that part number is OK. It has a different GPS chipset that does meet the ADSB requirements and sends out the correct code. You might contact Kyle, find out who that chipset manufacturer is and see if you can purchase it. Kyle was very nice to talk to. His email is: kyle.cobble@faa.gov I have not dug into all the instructions that came with mine. I do not have an avionics shop anywhere near me, so I'm going to do my best to install it myself (I have my Repairman license). Question: Did they tell you that you would need a Garman GA56 antenna? I was told they are out of production but in good supply in the used market. I plan to search on eBay, but have not done that yet. Good luck and please keep us posted! ET
  21. Radiator Cap

    I just ordered the earlier version of the Rotax radiator cap, 922-075, which is 0,9 bar (13 psi). The newer cap which Rotax is recommending is 922-070, which is 1,2 bar (18psi). So, I'm wondering what the good folks here have experienced with this issue. Is the original cap, Rotax 922-075 working for you? Discussion: I have had a problem of radiator leaks in the past couple of months. Seems like when I add a new clamp it leaks in a new place. I've done that twice and now I have a 3rd leak which I have not pin pointed yet. My radiator cap is a 1,2 bar (18 psi) and it has a date of 2006 on it. It also had a bunch of coagulated "goop" on the bottom part when I took it off wandering if it was "the problem". I figured it would be easier to buy a new cap than to find a place or way to pressure test it. Ouch, those little suckers are pricy! I ended up buying a Rotax 922-075 from CPS. They do not list the newer recommended cap (that I noted above, ref rotax 922-070). So, after stressing out a while, I ordered their part. I reasoned that, with the milder weather now, I'm pretty sure that cap will be just fine and hopefully will solve my coolant leaking issue. I am using the recommended coolant, Zerox Dex-cool. But, in the summer heat here, I suppose I take a risk of boiling off coolant if I operate near red-line (which I did this summer). I did a post about my oil temp going high. By the way, I found I had oil and dust in my radiator cooling fins which I cleaned out (air gun/solvent, water flush). Seems to run cooler now. I figure I can make a rubber washer and put in where the cap seats if I need to raise the pressure a bit. Then I'd be stuck needing to pressure test, but I could do a spring rate calculation.
  22. Radiator Cap

    Update of my quest . . . I called CPS and according to the order desk, the latest Rotax P/N is 922-072. I asked the price and it was $87.xx!!! That really urks me! I told them thanks and left my existing order stand. That one is $47.55, still highway robbery, ha ha. So, I have a winter radiator cap and a summer, ha ha. I went and searched my garage and found my Stant radiator leak and pressure tester. Came back in the house and did an online search for "adapter for testing small radiator caps". Bingo, on order, $14.xx with 2 day free shipping from Amazon. No longer will I have to wonder! Thanks you guys. I'm still wondering how the 0,9 bar cap works. I'll find out and update here.
  23. Radiator Cap

    I ordered online. But I searched CPS's parts listing for both parts. The 922-070 showed no search results. The 922-075 showed In Stock! I was pretty shocked myself (because, like you say, that is the old P/N). I'll call them now. Thanks Roger!!!
  24. My oil temperature goes right to the edge of yellow on climb out. I am using the Dex Cool coolant. Oil is full and light color and no overheat smell to it. I have noticed that when I throttle back the temprature drops off quite quickly. It does react to leveling off, but that seems to take longer than the throttling back does. I'm concerned becaues we are just getting into hotter weather. Is this a pretty common thing? Any ideas on how to improve the oil cooling? My CHT is more normal, have had it go above the middle of the green but not close to the yellow like the oil temp does. Is there a way to purge the oil cooler (I had an annual done recently with an oil change, wondering if maybe there is air trapped in the oil radiator)? Wow, let me just say, THIS FORUM IS AWESOME! Thanks, ET