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ibjet

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Everything posted by ibjet

  1. There's not really a good category for this discussion but I wanted to share my joy with being able to load in my folding bike. I used to have 2 Dahon folding bikes and nylon bags for them and had a blast doing fly in vacations. Fav was flying into Columbia Airport in CA. They have a campground and hot showers and a freezer with bagged ice. The town is a restored mining town and very fun to sight see. Anyway, when I went shopping Dahon bikes were very expensive, so I ended up buying a Vilano folding bike for under $200, I think it was $159. OK, so the problem was, it would not fit thru the cargo door or even the rectangular opening behind the seat. I loaded it into the passenger seat a time or 2, but it was very cumbersome. So, this past week, I designed and built a platform that takes the place of the passenger seat and gives a place to firmly mount a folding bike. I used the last 2 holes in the seat rails as the main attach points. In the rear of the platform it just sits on the landing gear bolt boss that is visible when you remove the seat. I'm attaching 5 pictures I took when I finally installed it. I did a 3D model of it, that I hand dimensioned if anybody would want to duplicate this. The last picture shows a solid link bar to keep the bike from rotating back or forward. The Vilano is an all aluminum frame and I'm really happy with it, now that I can bring it along easily. I'm definitely going to Columbia this spring!!!
  2. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    Nice bike! Very creative getting it in (pretty similar to my mounting). I think you should work out some way to assure the bike cannot shift. Mine is even scarier than yours because I have cables that come close to the control stick. Enjoy your combination hobby! Thanks for sharing the pics.
  3. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Still had the binding when I hooked up the elevator cable rod end to the bell crank again! There is a spherical bearing at the rear cable mount bracket. It will not swivel at all. I lubed it with the iNox, but no luck. I also noticed that the cable rod end is not lined up well with the hole in the bell crank. When I force the rod end down during connection, that is when the binding happens. I did a little search (because the parts manual says it is a GE 12 E bearing, and I found it pretty cheap on eBay and bought it (SKF GE 12 E made in Germany). In a bit I will go back out to my hangar and try to disconnect the front and rear cable mount brackets and see if I can move the whole cable assembly back far enough to get to the rear cable mount bracket assembly and work on it (free up the spherical bearing or remove it). Anybody had this issue? Anybody move the whole elevator cable assembly back?
  4. I just recently started flying my CTSW again. It took me "forever and a day" to do my annual (first time, nobody local with a CT or even a Rotax). So, now that I am flying and it's getting cold in Kingman, I'm noticing that my stabilator is sticking when I move it up (I can feel it binding when I move it back toward center travel, not a good thing on short final! I looked at the cable ends and it seems like the best thing is to take off the dorsal fin and remove the cable out the rear of the airplane. QUESTIONS: 1). Is this how to lube it? 2). What lube should I use? I have the silicone paste, thinking that would be good because it will not thicken in cold weather???
  5. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Removed the horizontal yesterday and it looks like Roger was right once again!!! I had not noticed but the rod end that connects the elevator cable had a very light coat of rust! One of the 2 trim tab actuators has a very tight rod end (I'm betting it is totally dry inside). The full width trim tab (not sure if they have another name for it) is fairly hard to move. And, yesterday I got the iNox MX3 that Roger recommended. I got the non-spray with a drip needle, think that makes the best sense (to avoid getting lanolin on the structure). I drilled a hole thru a 1x4 about 30 inches long and and mounted it as a counter balance for the counter balance, ha ha. So, my plan is to clean and lube everything (I'll have to peal off the nylon tape to get to the trim tab hinges) but I have new tape. And, as I reconnect things I will check for binding each time. I will also lube the connections in the cockpit. I will have to do one more final post here to confirm. But, Roger or anyone who has removed the horizontal tail: What the heck is that extra ball joint for? I removed it from the control arm and it fell out, ha ha. Is this just a spare ball joint? Nice of them, ha ha. Evening update: I cleaned the spring assembly in acetone and then I re-lubed it with the iNox. When I re-lubed the ball joint, I was amazed. It had been very stiff, it now tilts and rotates MUCH freer. I don't think all the moving parts in the tail have been lubed in many years! And, by the way Roger - I also decided to safety wire the spring assembly together, thought about trying to thread the rod end post into the control arm and decided it would be worth giving the wiring a try. It's gonna be real fun getting the wire back off the assembly, but, say la vie! Again Roger, thank you for your great help so many times on this forum!!!
  6. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I don't think I will need to do that pre-compressing thing, my set up allows me to compress the spring and go hands free. I'm chomping at the bit to remove my horizontal but by the time I was home from chores, it was 41 degrees, and I just could not force myself to go. Sitting at home in front of my fireplace, ha ha. It'll be warmer here tomorrow and I'll make more progress.
  7. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Yes, thanks Roger, I have the newer version spring assembly with the guides. Hopefully I will make it out to the hangar and continue my evaluation today. It just doesn't seem right that the front end of the spring assy is located by a small shaft which travels fwd/aft and it goes into a much larger hole. I actually ordered some 1" dia Teflon rod to make a bushing for that spot. Not sure if I will follow thru.
  8. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I finally got the spring assembly removed. Thought I'd share some pictures. I see a problem already - the spring assembly is not held in place on the FWD end except by a thru hole in the composite material (see bottom hole in pict 4). The center shaft of the spring assembly is way smaller diameter than that hole. I think there needs to be a bushing there of some kind. The parts and assembly manual does not show anything there. Tomorrow I will hook up the elevator cable and trim cables again and see if the binding is still there (without the spring assembly). If so, I will next check into the trim tab and it's linkage. Final chaper yet to come, ha ha, . . .
  9. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    ABS is definitely stronger. The challenge for this particular part will be getting it to withstand heat exposure (like time on the tarmac on a hot summer day. For that, it would be better to machine the part out of Delrin or equiv (which is grey like the original parts. I went with the most common 3D print filament just so I could get usable parts without too many hours of learning how to deal with the more difficult filaments. But, if I had bought a mini CNC Mill I would have used Delrin. The parts I made are holding up fine so far. Not at all sure they will servive a hot day outside! Great question!!! ET
  10. I recently decided to order a 3 D Printer. I have 2 broken plastic parts in my cabin that I will remake with PLA plastic. Not at all sure if they will hold up, but I can always go for a more exotic filament material later. I used TinkerCAD to create a 3 D model of the part (it's very easy to mirror the part for the other side). I will update this post once I install the parts and find out how well they hold up. I looked on the FD parts manual and they do not show a part number or name for them. I call it Door Lever Guide Plate. My broken part has a P/N A101359. I would be willing to share my 3 D model with anyone who wants to try this. The front and rear mount holes are fairly critical for fit, they are 200 MM apart in my CT. The middle hole has a floating fastener, so location is not critical for fit. That floating fastener falls into the door cavity if you unscrew the screw completely!!!
  11. ibjet

    No fuel crossfeed.

    Just saw this subject and thought I would add my 2 cents, ha ha. I have had the same experience with my 2006 CTSW. I only have an On/Off fuel selector which I leave on 99.9% of the time. Anyway, mine always drains the right tank way more than the left. I really freaked out when I was doing my annual this past year and I could not get good flow out of the left wing. I finally removed the gascolator bowl and found that I had plenty of flow (the gascolator drain port is very restrictive, thought about it and decided I didn't want it to flow really fast out of there, ha ha). One good aspect: I fuel just the right tank, simplifies my fuel logistics, ha ha. I don't have a solution, just living with it. KEEP MORE RESERVE FUEL, ha ha.
  12. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I'm going to use a short length of 1" dia alum bar, but I will connect it to a long skinny piece of hardwood trim that I can clamp to a stationary table (once I get the Stabilator held down into neutral position). I will drill a .50 dia hole thru on center line (that will just clear the head of the ball joint). Then I will mill a flat along the side of the bar until I have a .300 wide opening that will clear the post of the ball joint. That way I will have a pretty big foot print to push the spring forward with, but I can also reach in with a 7 mm open end wrench to turn the post (mine is either Loctited in or just threaded in to the Trim actuator arm. When I try to loosen it, I'll hit it with my little heat gun first to soften the Loctite. Posting a picture showing the foot print of the tool that I will make (in red).
  13. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Thank you! This Forum is such an awesome resource! You know, like anything else, if you just pour yourself into it (cautiously, ha ha) after a while of swimming around in it, it just unveils itself. Now that I know how I will compress the spring, it does not seem like that much of a challenge. I have a mini milling machine so I can make little tool details when I need them. But the metal part needed for this could be made of tubing and the slot made with a Dremel motor. I'm looking forward to posting a picture . . .
  14. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I did some more poking around . . . I loosened the nut that holds the spring rod end to the trim arm. Then I tried to turn the ball end shaft (it has 2 flats), the dang thing would not turn! I even pushed forward on the spring to take tension off. I guess it is threaded into the trim arm. It may even be Loctited on. Next time I'll shoot it with my little heat gun first. For my tool to compress the spring, I found I have some 1" dia alum rod, so I'll make something like the Safety Directive shows about 2 inches long and attach it to a long rectangular piece of hardwood trim. Then, I'll pull the Stabilator down into neutral position and apply that tool, and clamp the other end of it to a stationary table. I gotta do something like that to be able to remove the Stabilator so that I can re-connect the trim cables. But, I'm accomplishing the mission, learning what makes the Stabilator tick! Thanks for your info Roger. I'll have to show a picture of my set up when I get to it (multiplexing this week, ha ha).
  15. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Thank you so much Roger, you are sooooo helpful, as usual! Still baffled what my "vanishing binding problem" could be. And with the Stabilator removed it will take a lot of force to move the Stabilator mount/pivot. So I might not even be able to feel the binding then. I think I have to go ahead and remove that spring assembly. I'll find suitable tubing and slot it like that Safety Alert shows. Then I'll have to come up with a way to hold the tubing against the spring while I work. Hmmm, move over Rube Goldberg, ha ha.
  16. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    This afternoon I went and tried to remove my stabilator, but that is a bit tricky! I decided if I disconnect the cables, spring carrier, and link arm from the bell crank arm on the stabilator, that I would be able to remove the stabilator with the bell crank and balance weight/arm still attached. But, . . . as soon as I removed the trim tab cables from the bell crank arm, the stabilator whammed into the full up position! I thought the spring assembly was spring loaded to center travel, not!!! I tried pushing the spring assembly piston forward and I could do it, but now I need a way to push it forward and lock it. Being a retired aerospace manufacturing engineer, I can design and make a tool to do that, but I thought I would see if anybody can let me know how they solve this issue. Once I remove the stabilator, I still won't know what my binding issue is, but this is just what I gotta do! Roger Lee - Please read my prior posting and let me know if any of this makes sense to you!!! Season's greetings all, happy flying . . . ET
  17. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    I moved to Kingman at the end of 2004, so it's been that many years since I rode that trail. I do seem to remember that it was very rocky. But, I might not be talking about the same section you are. The trail that I rode starts just to the West of the Airport Vortex. We rode our bikes up hill to that area, and then lifted them over the steel road barrier where the trail begins (I now see that it is a loop). We rode it to Table Top and then crossed Oak Creak at Red Rock Crossing heading back to Oak Creak Village (where I lived at the time). We rode from Oak Creak Village to West Sedona every Wednesday for several months for lunch. That ride would be way out of my league now-a-days, ha ha. But, I will pursue my hobby this spring (it's gonna be quite a project to build that sling and rail so that I can load the bike into my CT. Only a knuckle head like me would attempt it, ha ha. Then, I know I'm not gonna be happy with the gear ratios of the bike. Gonna need a mega-range cassette or something. My current MTB I made into a 10 speed and I love that, so that may be where I end up. ET
  18. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Thanks Roger. The binding has become worse over time. It started about a month ago as a detectable increase in drag when I would move the stabilator in the up direction during my walk around. Yesterday I could feel it in the up direction and in the down direction: fairly easy to move when first starting, but then suddenly a binding feeling as you move it up and then the binding repeats as you move it back toward center (so it's like a binding "spot" in the travel. Then if I move it down, it is the same, hits a binging spot, then binds again as you move it back toward center. I can also feel essentially the same binding in moving the stick center to back and center to forward. So, then what blew my mind is: that binding totally goes away when I disconnect the elevator cable (no binding of the stabilator motion and no binding of the stick motion. Not logical at all! Like I said, I'll go back to my hangar today and scratch my head some more, ha ha. I guess I will disconnect the trim control and the spring damper and reconnect the elevator cable. Then if the binding is gone, I'll trouble shoot the trim system and damper. Have not removed the stabilator yet, so I'll do that in the process, just so I can say I've done it, ha ha. So far I only removed my dorsal fin (brought it home to repair a crack on the left side, have the correct glass and resin).
  19. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Just caught up on a bunch of inputs here (dang, I didn't have "notify me . . ." clicked). Thanks guys for all the input. Well, Riddle me this (ha ha): This afternoon, I removed the cable end connection in the tail. I reached for the stabilator right away, and it moved very freely. So, I went into the cabin and took off the center console covers. But, before trying to disconnect the cable end there, I moved the control stick fore and aft - it was very free to move also! I hate it when mechanical things baffle me - that's not fair, ha ha. Tomorrow I'll go back to the hanger and scratch my head some more!!!
  20. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    Boo hoo, the folding mountain bike does not fit (see picture). Hmmm, wait a minute . . . Update on 12-5-2018: Not being one who gives up easily, I decided that I will make this work! I'm going to make a sling that will allow me to lift up the bike and then rotate it to horizontal and move it into the cabin, and then rotate it back vertical. I'm thinking 4 short lengths of thin wall alum tubing, some SS cables and a brass pully. Can't start a "fly in mountain biking club" unless I do this, ha ha. Probably over a week before I have this ready to try, but I'll post pictures . . .
  21. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    Thanks for the discussion guys! I did not have any problem with the bike interfering with the right stick, but the bike cables loop around and come very close. I was tickled to hear the idea about removing the stick, and to hear that it is only 2 bolts, and I have all the connectors to make the mic switch wires quick disconnect. I did not mention my next goal: I love to mountain bike and so last week I searched for a folding mountain bike. I found one that looked pretty good and was about the same price as the Vilano. So, on an impulse I bought it! Then I felt crazy because it is gonna be a really tough fit! I actually think I can do it, but it will take a different rack to mount it on. I assembled the bike last night, so I'll share a couple of pics . . . So, if successful, I will create a new hobby: Fly in mountain biking, ha ha. My first trip will be to Sedona (there is a "secret trail" going around the airport mesa!
  22. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    I didn't realize this Accessories category is under Avionics! Sorry, and I don't quite know how to move it or what category to put in under! But, I'll try . . .
  23. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    I remember seeing them. I'll have to hunt that down. Now that I have white and clear vinyl sticky back printer paper, I can remake just about any marking. Thanks Tom!
  24. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    I have latched and unlatched my doors probably 20 times since installing the 3D printed replacement plastic door lever guides. They are holding up just fine so far. I do not see any wearing. The lever does have quite a bit of spring pressure inward (pulls toward Aircraft center line) and so I do see my parts flex a little bit. I was not sure what the original door markings were, so I just made up what made sense to me. Took a picture of the pilots side yesterday. I took a beautiful flight down to Lake Havasu and had an early dinner. The restaurant is more like a rustic night club. They even have bands on the weekend! New favorite short trip!
  25. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Thank you so much Eric! Wow, never would have guessed that it had ball bearings, amazing. So, I need to disconnect both ends and see if the binding is in the cable! I think I will remove my Stabilator and my dorsal fin (has a crack I need to repair). I guess this is as good a time as any to have my bird in pieces, ha ha. Thanks all, what a great resource this Forum is, that's amazing too! ET
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