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ibjet

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Everything posted by ibjet

  1. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    It fits!!! My little spring clip broke, but I found a really nice "snap in" nylon spring clip that I can use on the front and back that will hold it down with 7 lbs. tension (that way the door won't rattle). I used Rust-Oleum American Accent, stone textured finish (the gray is off and the speckles are way finer). But, it's fine for now. This door is heavier than the original and quit a bit more flexible. But, it seems like it will hold up for now. If I ever need to remake it, I will bond on a very thin stiffener plate to approximate the "sandwich" structure of the original part. I gotta admit, this part is not as good as the original, it would break into pieces if someone applied "foot pressure" ha ha.
  2. I recently decided to order a 3 D Printer. I have 2 broken plastic parts in my cabin that I will remake with PLA plastic. Not at all sure if they will hold up, but I can always go for a more exotic filament material later. I used TinkerCAD to create a 3 D model of the part (it's very easy to mirror the part for the other side). I will update this post once I install the parts and find out how well they hold up. I looked on the FD parts manual and they do not show a part number or name for them. I call it Door Lever Guide Plate. My broken part has a P/N A101359. I would be willing to share my 3 D model with anyone who wants to try this. The front and rear mount holes are fairly critical for fit, they are 200 MM apart in my CT. The middle hole has a floating fastener, so location is not critical for fit. That floating fastener falls into the door cavity if you unscrew the screw completely!!!
  3. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Last night I 3D printed the smaller half of the cover, it took 3 hours, 5 minutes! I printed the larger half today, it took just under 5 hours. This evening I glued the 2 pieces together with Loctite Plastics Bonder. The bonded cover came out very flat (I put each half on an equal stack of paper on my very flat counter top). After priming, putting glue on one piece, I slid the 2 together and pressed for one minute. It says 12 to 24 hours for full cure, but feels very strong now. It's so flat, it sticks to my countertop (by vacuum)! I can't wait to snap it in place temporarily tomorrow! I saw that Rust-Oleum makes a gray spray paint with white and black speckles, but I don't think I can use that on plastic. Gotta research the painting a bit. Krylon and Rust-Oleum both make paints for plastic now. Oh, my new part weighs a bit more, old is only 2.3 oz, new is 3.5 oz.
  4. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    My panels are in pretty good shape now. I do need to do some revisions to markings. The panel I had that was damaged was the lower center panel. I put a lot of effort into replacing the lower right broken corner, kind of a keepsake now, ha ha. But thanks Dave!
  5. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    My access door is broken on the top and bottom surfaces and deformed. The part that I make will be black and I will paint it gray (Kryon Fusion is supposed to be for plastic) and then try to find black spatter paint and white spatter paint. Then I will have to make the "No Step" marking too. I must admit, I'm enjoying the 3D print technology as well as the solid model programming (free). I wouldn't attempt this on a part that required higher strength or heat resistance. ET
  6. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    I had one corner of my center panel broken, I repaired it by making a piece of alum to replace the missing piece (after cleaning up the broken edge a bit). I glued it on with JB Weld, the strongest version. I even tried to re-create the "brushed alum" finish then touched up over the JB Weld with silver paint. It's not very pretty, but fastens that corner and does not draw the eye like it did. I had already thought about the possibility of making one of those panels as a 3D print. The common PLA plastic is pretty rigid, but I don't know how it would stand up in heat. The existing panel material is something like Bakelite, which is a thermo-setting plastic (will not melt, so does not get soft in the heat, the PLA would). I think if I were serious about remaking one of the panels, I would get a hobby CNC mill and machine from a fresh piece of paneling. But, those panels are pretty large to get on a hobby CNC mill bed (you could leave half of it hanging off the front of the mill, then reverse to finish machining). A pretty tall order and then you have to do all the markings. I tried to find the type of paneling that FD uses and did not find it. I'm sure I could find it, but you would probably have to buy a big sheet of it which would probably cost you more than re-ordering from FD. Did you ask Arian for a price? I imagine he said "we do not have any"? ET
  7. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    This is off subject, but those who were interested in the 3D Printed Door Latch Plate, might be interested in this part . . . My Pilot side Floor Storage Cover was broken when I got the airplane. I couldn't resist doing a solid model for it . . . Not sure when I will print it, but pretty soon. Since it is designated "No Step", I don't think strength will be an issue with it. I added a fixed tab and a flexible tab so it will snap in. I figure I can revise it if that feature breaks. I will make this in 2 pieces and glue together (it's too big for my printer bed). I will submit all 3 parts on a MRA to Flight Design. Still not finished my annual, so no wear on the Door Latch Plates yet (they latch and unlatch very easy now, thanks to the silicone paste (I put it on all the linkage joints too). Thanks for that Roger - you da man, ha ha!!!
  8. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    I finally finished my door lever latch plates (had to C'sink the holes, PLA plastic does not like being machined)! I was amazed that the parts fit without having to file or modify them at all. Now, when I finish my annual, I get to see how well they hold up (I latched and unlatched several times, they seem fine). I lubed the door latch pins and linkage with silicone paste first. I have one more broken part that I'm thinking I will remake . . . My "under floor storage" cover on the pilot side is broken. It's too big to make with my 3D printer, but I can make it in 2 pieces with "I beam" stiffeners in a criss cross pattern including where the 2 pieces will glue together. Just a thought for now . . . I'll let all know how the door latch plates hold up.
  9. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Thanks again Bill, that "D" extrusion is better than I had hoped. I was putting off the project because I did not know how to glue it to the U channel (and did not trust the self adhesive stripping). I placed the order yesterday. I love Amazon Prime!
  10. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Bill - What you did is exactly what I am planning to do, but I have brand new metal re-enforced channel that I will use to bond the "D" extrusion to (my channel is coming off the flange that it mounts to). I think it will be a good idea for me to wipe the new channel down with acetone before I stick on the "D" extrusion. I have not had too much luck with the self adhering weather strip, but since you used it with success, I will follow suit! Thanks a lot Bill, and thanks for the compliment on my success with the 3D part. I had an issue with my 3D printer which I solved this evening and I"m sitting here baby sitting my printer while it makes the first totally complete part (the one I test fit is not quite thick enough and actually had a little bit of tilt in it). I taught myself how to put a Z off set in the printer (Z=0 was 1 mm below the glass platen)! My 3D printer is made in China and the translation of the Chinese manuals to English is terrible. The spool of PLA filament was not feeding well originally, so I made a guide that stops the filament from coming off the spool during printing (we heard 2 large crashes when I ran it originally, the spool holder fell over)! Now I can pretty much leave it alone when I am running a 3D model that has already been proven out.
  11. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Sorry folks this is off subject a bit . . . Thanks Roger, I will get silicone paste to lube the door handle/plate and the pins. My door is latching pretty easily now that I put on the new hinges. It is centered in the door opening better too. My door weather stripping is old. I may have a problem when I install new weather stripping. I will plan to latch the doors from the outside and leave them latched so the rubber takes a set. I bought the weather stripping "carrier" (extruded, metal reinforced "U" channel). I was planning to buy the "D" ring weather stripping separate. Then I got a part number from Arian at FD for the complete seal with "D" ring weather strip included (from McMaster -Carr). So, not sure what I will do. Question: Have you ever bought just the channel strip and glued on the "D" ring? I will do that if I can find a good glue to attach the 2 strips. Maybe just use contact cement, but I think there is a better specialty glue for that purpose. I will let all know how well my 3D printed parts hold up.
  12. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    It fits!!! No C'sinks yet, just a test fit. Latched and unlatched a couple of times, seems to work fine! 😁
  13. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Progress report . . . I had a couple of false starts printing my first part (after printing the supplied test part I realized my file was behaving normally). It goes thru a dry run of the first layer. Then I ran a part for over an hour and my back bedroom (laboratory, ha ha) circuit breaker tripped (when I turned on an extra light)! So, now (with all LED lights in my lab) it printed completely as shown below. I just realized that the top flange is about .012" thinner than the original part! That is baffling because the hole pattern appears to be very accurate (and has to be). I'll check out my model and add about .020" thickness to that flange (make it a tiny bit thicker than the stock part). The part comes out looking like a carbon fiber part, but this is made with "PLA +" filament. OK, I'll update when I try a part in my CT.
  14. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Roger - I need to lube my door latch linkage (annual in process). I figured I would use a greaseless spray lube for the metal to metal joints. But I"m not sure what kind of lube to use on the 3 locking pins that slide in the composite door. I'm picturing a clear grease that I can smear on the pins. But, it needs to be something that will not attack the resin in the composite. I think you already talked about his in an earlier post, I'll go look. About the plastic parts breaking, on mine, it looks like they broke when people were unlatching the door, moving the lever sideways (too forcefully) and hitting the thinnest section of the plate. But, also mine are distorted where the lever rests on the plate when latched closed. I think my CT sat out in some hot summer days with the doors locked. The sun and heat got to the plastic. I wish I knew what the current material is, I think it is Delrin. That is very machinable and I was planning to buy that from McMaster and machine them. I just researched the Carbon Fiber filament. The most popular one is made with 70% PLA and 30% Carbon Fiber. Users love it and say the parts are very rigid. Anyway Roger, as I said this is just experimenting for now. I wanted to try my hand at 3D modeling (again, used Solid Works for my last company) and at 3D Printing (I love it so far, even though my first 2 prints failed on the first layer, ha ha). ET
  15. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    20180617_140305.mp4
  16. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    I read that I can use carbon fiber filament in my 3D printer. I think that would be hard to beat!!! But, yes, machining from a very strong plastic bar stock or sheet would be a good way to go. I did this project rather than buy a hobby CNC mill. But, the fact that the stock plastic parts are breaking (and mine are also warped), means there is a change needed. I will research the carbon fiber filament and hopefully try that. I'll advise . . .
  17. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Both of mine broke in the same place (see picture). I am assembling my 3 D printer today. I just did a 3 D print preview. All seems so daunting right now, ha ha. But, I love challenges. I saw that I can use ABS filament with my printer, so I'll probably order a spool of that next (it is a bit harder to use). PLA is the easiest to use and best all around. Yes, I"ll let you know my progress and post pictures . . .
  18. ibjet

    ADS-B Installation

    I impulsively decided to order the Nav Worx ADS-B package for LSA's / Experimental's yesterday (that's ADS600-EXP). I had a notice from the FAA that their rebate offer was expiring, but I don't think it applies to LSA (I will research that, I have a few days to apply). For now, I was wondering if any CT owners/flyers have ordered or installed the Nav Worx ADS-B system? If so, you might get a visit from N40HA, hee hee.
  19. ibjet

    Fuel filter

    Doing my first annual and wanted to add a comment here . . . I tested my fuel flow and was way below the minimum. But, I read here (from Roger) that the gas flow was much better with the gascolator bowl removed during this test. So today I re-tested my left (slower) tank with the gascolator bowl removed, and the flow was well above 10 gph. I was already psyching myself up to pulling the wings, so I was very happy that I tried the flow test this way. Thanks Roger, you are once again my hero!!! I will email Arian at FD and recommend that they state that my be required. In my case the gascolator drain valve was limiting the flow and nothing I would have done would improve the flow thru it. Jezzz, that fuel filter is hard to get to!!! Sure was relieved that I had the metal one!!! ET
  20. I'm doing my annual and I noticed a throttle cable routing problem. I assume my mechanic (where I purchased my CTSW in Tulsa, OK) routed the cables that way because it was easier for him to tighten/adjust them. But, the cables were rubbing against the cable housing end fitting and they were pulling at quite an angle. I also came up with a way to take the slack out of the throttle cable while I was tightening the cable (see mini vice grips and tie wrap in second picture). To tighten the cable clamp fitting I used an open end wrench and needle nose pliers (but you could cut down an allen wrench very short to get to the allen socket in the clamp bolt). I also reversed the throttle spring to hold it against the idle adjustment stop during this process (picture does not show that). I'd love to hear any feed back on this, anybody doing it this way??? I'm thinking this has to be the correct way.
  21. ibjet

    Air filter removal

    Tried to remove my air filter this evening on my 2006 CTSW. Removed the 4 screws that hold the air cleaner housing to the firewall, but it will not tilt forward very much. I tried to pull the filter out, but it would not come out. I suppose I can "tear it out", but hate to pull that hard. I'd love to hear from anyone that has done this. Thanks, ET
  22. ibjet

    Air filter removal

    Thanks Roger, when I grow up I wanna be like you, ha ha!!! I really appreciate your helpfulness. I do have one tie wrap laterally around the filter. I assumed it was keeping me from pulling the filter out. I was thinking I would try to reach in and cut that tie wrap today. I'll do another reply here wth any updates. I found a problem with my throttle cable routing. I'll do another post with before and after pictures. I'd love to hear your take on that. Again thanks Roger ET
  23. By error I ordered the wrong radiator cap (the old 13 psi version) but I thought it might eliminate my slow coolant leak. Well, that was a pipe dream, ha ha. Still have the leak and I want to pressure test my system so I can isolate the leak. I have an idea of how to make up a pressure test system. But, I'm wondering if anyone has found a standard pressure tester or pressure test adapter (I have the standard Stuart tester). Anybody already been there done that? Thanks in advance good people! ET (Ed Tichenor)
  24. ibjet

    ADS-B Installation

    Thanks for the chuckle! It is composite, ha ha!
  25. ibjet

    ADS-B Installation

    Hi Bill, Wow, thanks for the info. I guess that is probably the way I will end up going. I have not gotten any usable instructions from Dallas Avionics yet for how to install my version of the Navworx. Apparently they (Navworx) never created a version of the installation manual covering my part number. They (Dallas Avionics) sent me a manual for the ADS600-B but it covers several different part numbers, none of them mine and I could not even match up my unit to any of them by comparing the weight. I keep asking them to send me installation instructions covering my version, or send me a return authorization. I told them even if they just tell me which part number mine is "the same as" I would proceed. I'm toying with the idea of filing a small claims case against them, but I don't know if they are legally liable (they sold me an ADS-B with no installation instructions). I have kept myself busy doing a couple or repairs on my CT and installing an AvMap EFIS. My latest diversion was the purchase and assembly of a ventless fireplace (it uses gel fuel, but I plan to install a ventless propane firelog). Can you tell me what that Uavionix system cost you (with the GPS)? Can you share a picture(s) with me (or here on CTflier)? I bought a mini iPad for Karaoke but I have not been able to upload any Karaoke files to it, so I may install it in my CT. Is that what you are using to display your ADS-B In map? I think Foreflight is an Apple APP, isn't it? Thank you so much Bill for all the info. You are a very productive man, wish I had your drive!!! ET ibjet@me.com
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