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ibjet

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Everything posted by ibjet

  1. I installed a strip LED instrument panel lighting system last year, but it did not light up the upper portion on the gages very well. I decided to search for a red LED flashlight and a way to mount it on the upper area of the rear cabin bulkhead. Sure enough I found a really nice little flashlight and a small swivel mount to install it on. It uses (1) AA battery. It has a bright and dim power setting (as well as a flasher mode, kind of a pain, ha ha). I bought these 2 items using Amazon Prime at a total cost of about $16. Now, the amazing part, I can see the left, right, center, and lower panel with no blind spots. I flew at dusk tonight and never used my main instrument light (this is better). The little flashlight also has a focus system that goes from narrow to wide angle beam (pretty much the full beam is needed. The flashlight comes with a pocket clip which has a lightening hole. The threaded post on the swivel mount (1/4-20 threads) fit thru that clip and I installed a 1/4-20 jam nut behind the clip. I tried installing the swivel mount with double sided tape, but it didn't hold. If you use short #6 sheet metal screws like I did, BE CAREFULL, THERE IS STUFF BEHIND THE BULKHEAD!!!
  2. ibjet

    Instrument Panel Light

    Hi Mike, very creative! I was tickled by your past planes, I too had a C-150, and M20C. I'm finding the CTSW is great for a retirement plane. Posting a pic of the 62 Mooney, I had just repainted all the trim, and just rolled it into my new hangar, about 1987. The Mooney sure was a lot easier to land than the CTSW!!! But, I make everybody jealous by taking the first turn out after touching down, ha ha.
  3. ibjet

    Instrument Panel Light

    Just in case anybody is interested in this cabin light idea . . . I finally got around to making the dummy battery (wood dowel, 2 brass screws, and some soldering). And so I did a bench test of my idea. The buck volt converter had no instructions, but I just went back to the instructions in the Amazon listing. I adjusted it to 1.5 volts, but I might decide to reduce it when I re-install the flashlight/wire it up. I have the 2 circuit breakers that I need (one says instrument panel light, the other says cabin light). But, I only have one toggle on/off switch in my center panel. So, I will install an extra toggle switch along side my dimmer switch that goes with my strip LED panel light kit. I'll be glad not to have confusing markings (I'm re-doing them with my clear vinyl sticky back printer paper). If you are doing any amount of night flying, it's really great to have 2 interior light systems (I had a bulb burn out in my Mooney many years ago and my spare bulb pack was empty! Luckily, their light system was 2 lights and I was able to see well enough. BTW, the better flashlight is (single mode, the 3 mode changes modes every time you cut power): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3SY4LG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  4. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    I need to correct myself: Apparently the oil temp gauge and the CHT gauge do not have the same circuitry (I assumed so because they both use the same sensor). I went to a lot of pains to remark my new oil temp gauge identically to my old CHT gauge and installed it yesterday and flew it. The new gauge never registered any heat. My overhauled oil temp gauge works fine and my temp went into about the middle of the green arc. So, I have an ASI that I need to return to UMA, and I'll send them my old CHT for rebuild also. Some one told me that the UMA ASI is not rebuildable, but they say it is. I'll give it a shot. I installed an ASI that I bought from Aircraft Spruce and didn't realize it was calibrated in MPH! I'm sending in the old ASI to correct that issue. My CTSW is flying so nice now. Love it. Gonna show off my latest pic in flight (not easy to take a pic with one hand, ha ha).
  5. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    I finally finished my annual and flew my CT for the first time in many months. I did not have anyone local with any CT or Rotax experience, so it took me forever and a day, ha ha. I flew it 3 times and decided I had to tear into it again!!! I have had problems with overheating on climb out, but this time it was oil temp more than CHT. I had cleaned the radiator last year but never got out all the "goop" (oil soaked dust). Now that it is removed I can see the clogged cooling coils and they are more in the center part of the radiator (where the oil cooler is). I researched for a local radiator shop and we have one, but he didn't seem like he really wanted to do an aluminum radiator (you cannot "boil them out" like a normal radiator because of the caustic solution used). I decided (since my clogging is mostly exterior) I will put my radiator in a milk crate and take it to the local coin operated car wash! For the interior flushing I will make sure and "back flush" by having the inlet side down, and blast thru the outlet side. So, tonight I went to make sure of the flow direction and by chance I turned on the battery and noticed that my oil temp gage went up to 140 degrees! And, after staring at that for about a minute, it popped up to about 180 degrees! So, I was pretty relieved that the overheating is probably not as bad as it was showing. But, I know I needed to clean the exterior of the radiator. Next year I'll come up with a better way to clean it without removing it. I have a degreaser sprayer, but I need to make a right angle nozzle so I can spray from behind the radiator. And, I'll heat the 505 degreaser liquid while I'm spraying. Question: Anyone have a source for a new oil pressure sensor? Regards all . . . ET
  6. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    Ha ha, you really thought about this Mike! I did find a printer like device that is meant for trimming printed media. It sells for around $140 on Amazon: Silhouette Curio Cutting Tool But for markings for those little gauges, I'll do a full scale marking drawing in Corel Draw, print it out on white sticky back vinyl, and then trim away the excess with an exacto blade, new scissors, etc. It's gotta look neat. Otherwise, I may just send my old CHT back to UMA, my oil temp gauge overhaul was only $50, amazing!
  7. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    Oh, BTW Mike, I forgot to say that I ordered the vinyl printer paper direct online from that company, www.photopaperdirect.us (the packets still say .com???) And the name of the white and clear sheets is: 1. Inkjet Vinyl, Self Adhesive, Gloss (it does not say white, but it is). 2. Inkjet, Self Adhesive, Clear Film. For gauge markings, I think printing on the white Vinyl is the way to go. But, I'm trying to figure out how to trim them accurately. I thought about a laser cutter, but I don't think they have any cheap enough to make that practical. I saw one that is just about the size of an inkjet printer. Hmmm, there may be a laser in my future, ha ha.
  8. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    Thanks Mike! OMG, I wish I had more ambition!
  9. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    My printer is a pretty cheapy all-in-one Cannon (ink jet). I love that it has an automatic sheet feeder. I ordered my vinyl printer paper from photo paper direct. I got white vinyl paper by mistake and then I reordered and got the clear. I gotta update and say that the color marking for my oil temp gauge did not work out well! The clear vinyl film over the gauge glass was not totally clear and worse yet, the color arcs were translucent so they were not nearly "bold" enough (faint). I ended up making a template out of white vinyl sticky back stock, and then I cut thin strips of color vinyl tape that I had bought last year to make the color arcs. You can buy color arc decals from AC Spruce, but they are pretty expensive and their shipping rates are also pretty high. I think I will try making vinyl decals by printing on white vinyl sticky back printer paper and then cut away all that extra white material (tedious work with "senior vision" ha ha). Using the clear vinyl sticky back printer paper for instrument panel marking works fine. So great to be able to change the markings at will! UMA finished the rebuild of my old oil temp gauge. The rebuild charge was $49.XX, amazing (they had to replace a PCB).
  10. ibjet

    Instrument Panel Light

    I found a 96% efficient 12vdc to 1.5vdc Buck Volt Converter (new name to me, ha ha) and decided to buy it. I will fabricate a "dummy battery" with 2 wire leads so that I can power the flash light with the main aircraft power source. I'll add a switch somewhere on the instrument panel or near the light. I have 2 circuit breakers for internal lighting and now I will use both: One says Cabin Light and the other says Instrument panel light. So, I will use both of those circuit breakers and make all my marking agree. The new "Cabin Light" works so well, I will never use the Instrument panel light, that's just my redundancy (+ I always carry a $1 Walmart LED flashlight, ha ha). Posting a pictures of the Converter. Not sure where I will mount it, probably on the rear of the instrument panel. The wire will route thru the center console, up the back of the cabin rear bulkhead. Patent pending, ha ha!
  11. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    I got my new oil temp gauge today (way ahead of delivery promise). It had no color markings, so I took a picture of the face, and brought it into Corel Draw to create the color markings (also brought in a picture of the old gauge so I could get the markings right). Then I scaled it to true size. Then I threw away the pictures, so I can print out the color markings on clear vinyl sticky back printer stock. I'm adding a picture of the other new sticky back markings that I made up already. Tomorrow I will install the new gauge and markings and fly Lilly (weather permitting). All my engine heat problems should be gone now (knock on wood). By the way, if you need to change marking on any of your instrument panels, Acetone on a swab takes off the old markings very easily.
  12. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    Thanks for the info. I'll see if I can get an estimate from them tomorrow. I can't cancel my AC Spruce order, but Maybe I'll have this old one rebuilt anyway. Update: I called them today because the shipment for the new gauge was shown as 10/12/2018 (plus USPS priority shipment time). They said that delivery would probably be sooner but I said I was interested in having my existing gauge rebuilt. They said that they could probably overhaul in 2 or 3 days and the usual charge for it is $50. So, my gauge is on it's way with UPS 2 day (30 some bucks, ouch, ha ha). Again, thanks for the info!!!
  13. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    I ordered the oil pressure gauge last night from AC Spruce. After ordering I realized that it says it is a non-stocked item! Anyway, for anyone in need, I have not found a better source: AC Spruce P/N 10-02779 UMA 1-1/4" OIL TEMP 100F - 300F FOR ROTAX 912 NON TSO They charge $190 and I used USPS priority for $9.00 and they did not charge tax (they are CA and I am AZ). I will have to make the color arches (I have sticky back clear vinyl printing paper, gonna use that for all my markings). I can see happy skies ahead . . .
  14. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    I redid that test tonight and the CHT gage read 201 degrees (with the sensor in boiling water). So, I took the Oil Temp gage out and I'll see if I can find a source. Its a UME gage (USA made) so it should not be too hard to find (hope, I hope, I hope).
  15. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    I flew my CT with the clean radiator and it is better but the oil temperature still got near red line. Tonight I tested my sensor by placing it in boiling water. The gage went to a hair over 230 degrees (Yaaaaaa). This means my gage is not reading correctly up in the operating range. I'm at 3,400 elevation, so the gage should have gone to about 205 degrees. That means my oil temperature is within acceptable limits. Now, tomorrow I'll hook the same sensor to my CHT gage and see what reading I get (I need to determine if the error is in the sensor or in the gage. I suspect the gage. My sensor says VDO 4.06 801/10/1. I found a site selling an 801/10/3 and the picture looks identical to mine (oops, I guess the threads are different). I did search prior posts here, and apparently the correct P/N is VDO 801/10/1. I guess if it's the gage, I'll have to contact FD (nope, see later post in this string, I found the gauge at AC Spruce). I'll also have to check the back of the gages and see if there is not a way to calibrate them (no there isn't). Happy flying all. I"m thinking I will take a trip to Columbia, CA and stay at the camp ground beside the airport for a few days. 😊😊😊😊
  16. ibjet

    Instrument Panel Light

    Yes Sir!: The flashlight: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0136RV4YY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The swivel mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMNJIO6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Correction, found a better flashlight (single mode): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3SY4LG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  17. ibjet

    Oil overheating

    Thanks you guys! Roger, you always amaze me with your effort to help others here. If I didn't love Kingman, Bullhead City, and Laughlin so much, I would consider relocating to the Tucson area! I'm pretty sure I have a bad probe or wire connection by the fact that my gage goes up to 140 degrees when I turn on the battery with a cold engine. Then, if I wait an extra minute or 2 it pops up to about 180 degrees. The fact that it jumps up makes me suspect that I also have a sticky gage. I'll have to keep an eye on that. I will definitely try swapping the leads and cleaning the clips/terminals with acetone. As far as the hoses, extra heat shielding, etc, that was done by Rex Johnson at the Riverside Airport in Tulsa, OK when I bought the airplane (5 year rubber change). Thanks again . . .
  18. I recently decided to order a 3 D Printer. I have 2 broken plastic parts in my cabin that I will remake with PLA plastic. Not at all sure if they will hold up, but I can always go for a more exotic filament material later. I used TinkerCAD to create a 3 D model of the part (it's very easy to mirror the part for the other side). I will update this post once I install the parts and find out how well they hold up. I looked on the FD parts manual and they do not show a part number or name for them. I call it Door Lever Guide Plate. My broken part has a P/N A101359. I would be willing to share my 3 D model with anyone who wants to try this. The front and rear mount holes are fairly critical for fit, they are 200 MM apart in my CT. The middle hole has a floating fastener, so location is not critical for fit. That floating fastener falls into the door cavity if you unscrew the screw completely!!!
  19. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Wanted to show my snap in latch. When I finally got both pieces of the latch in the correct place it was such a wonderful sound to hear it snap down against the door seat!
  20. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Thanks for the comments Roger & Bill. I'll post one more picture when I get those snap in latches installed. About the shipping, I wish I could print some parts and sell, but of course I can't. Also not sure how FD will react to my request to approve these (It will be like I am competing with their replacement part sales). I get the impression it is just kind of a gotta do for them (maybe not, maybe is it a pretty big revenue source for them). I"ll also let folks here know how they reply. I would be willing to give my 3D models and 3D printing files to any member here who wants them (at no cost with no liability). Happy flying all . . .
  21. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    It fits!!! My little spring clip broke, but I found a really nice "snap in" nylon spring clip that I can use on the front and back that will hold it down with 7 lbs. tension (that way the door won't rattle). I used Rust-Oleum American Accent, stone textured finish (the gray is off and the speckles are way finer). But, it's fine for now. This door is heavier than the original and quit a bit more flexible. But, it seems like it will hold up for now. If I ever need to remake it, I will bond on a very thin stiffener plate to approximate the "sandwich" structure of the original part. I gotta admit, this part is not as good as the original, it would break into pieces if someone applied "foot pressure" ha ha.
  22. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    Last night I 3D printed the smaller half of the cover, it took 3 hours, 5 minutes! I printed the larger half today, it took just under 5 hours. This evening I glued the 2 pieces together with Loctite Plastics Bonder. The bonded cover came out very flat (I put each half on an equal stack of paper on my very flat counter top). After priming, putting glue on one piece, I slid the 2 together and pressed for one minute. It says 12 to 24 hours for full cure, but feels very strong now. It's so flat, it sticks to my countertop (by vacuum)! I can't wait to snap it in place temporarily tomorrow! I saw that Rust-Oleum makes a gray spray paint with white and black speckles, but I don't think I can use that on plastic. Gotta research the painting a bit. Krylon and Rust-Oleum both make paints for plastic now. Oh, my new part weighs a bit more, old is only 2.3 oz, new is 3.5 oz.
  23. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    My panels are in pretty good shape now. I do need to do some revisions to markings. The panel I had that was damaged was the lower center panel. I put a lot of effort into replacing the lower right broken corner, kind of a keepsake now, ha ha. But thanks Dave!
  24. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    My access door is broken on the top and bottom surfaces and deformed. The part that I make will be black and I will paint it gray (Kryon Fusion is supposed to be for plastic) and then try to find black spatter paint and white spatter paint. Then I will have to make the "No Step" marking too. I must admit, I'm enjoying the 3D print technology as well as the solid model programming (free). I wouldn't attempt this on a part that required higher strength or heat resistance. ET
  25. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    I had one corner of my center panel broken, I repaired it by making a piece of alum to replace the missing piece (after cleaning up the broken edge a bit). I glued it on with JB Weld, the strongest version. I even tried to re-create the "brushed alum" finish then touched up over the JB Weld with silver paint. It's not very pretty, but fastens that corner and does not draw the eye like it did. I had already thought about the possibility of making one of those panels as a 3D print. The common PLA plastic is pretty rigid, but I don't know how it would stand up in heat. The existing panel material is something like Bakelite, which is a thermo-setting plastic (will not melt, so does not get soft in the heat, the PLA would). I think if I were serious about remaking one of the panels, I would get a hobby CNC mill and machine from a fresh piece of paneling. But, those panels are pretty large to get on a hobby CNC mill bed (you could leave half of it hanging off the front of the mill, then reverse to finish machining). A pretty tall order and then you have to do all the markings. I tried to find the type of paneling that FD uses and did not find it. I'm sure I could find it, but you would probably have to buy a big sheet of it which would probably cost you more than re-ordering from FD. Did you ask Arian for a price? I imagine he said "we do not have any"? ET
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