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ibjet

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Everything posted by ibjet

  1. My exhaust system seems to have terrible flow disturbance, the welded joints are not well aligned and not designed to flow smoothly from one section to the next. I'm thinking that would be a great bolt on horse power. But, I know also that aviation engines should not be experimented with lightly (the ability to run at full throttle on take off is based on many different parameters). Anyway, just thought I'd ask if anyone has seen or heard of a smooth flow header system for the CT/Rotax? ET
  2. ibjet

    Engine quit in flight

    Please see the 2 questions in bold print. I made a sight seeing flight from Kingman airport, AZ over Supai AZ to see the Havasu falls/Mooney falls. There is no airport there so it was an out and back, about an hour and 40 minutes. I had about 15 to 18 gallons of fuel onboard. We made a straight in landing approach for Rwy 21 at Kingman. At about 4 miles out I decided I was too high and cut back to idle. Shortly after that the engine started missing. I played with the throttle setting many times and higher throttle made the engine vibrate like some cylinders were missing. I ended up lining up for an off field landing 2 different times, with the engine totally dying once. I was lined up on a field and decided to crank it and it re-started. We climbed a bit and then it lost power again so I lined up for a better field landing, but had to dodge some cows! But, played with the throttle again and got some more power. I was able to climb very cautiously and so I lined up with the runway and made a pretty normal landing. I taxed to my hangar and did a normal mag check - went fine. In flight I had looked at the right fuel indicator and it showed about 8 gallons. I can't remember if I even looked at the left side but it almost always has more. So, today I went back to my hangar to check it out (I was convinced it had been carburetor icing). To my shock the left tank showed totally empty in the indicator tube. I opened the gas filler and that area showed dry. Even shook the wing and it didn't sound like the left side made any sloshing noise, though the right side did. I have this condition where the left tank always seems to draw gas out of the right tank while sitting in the hangar. I measured tilt today with a digital level and the right wing was about 0.1/0.2 degrees higher. But, the crazy thing - the gas did not transfer this time, stayed in the right wing leaving the left wing empty! I even propped the right wing up about an inch and left for about an hour. I came back with 10 more gallons of gas and the left tank was still showing empty. I know there are some posts about needing to tilt the airplane in flight to make sure it uses fuel from the fuller tank. But, I was not sure if I had read (or that I believed) that one tank going empty would cause engine starvation. So, can anyone verify that on a normal CTSW one empty tank will cause engine starvation? Mine is a 2006. I am in shock that I can have 8 gallons of gas and my engine can quit! Just seems like FD would not have let that be. I do not remember any cautions about this in the owners manuals. And, it is very hard to see the levels in the tubes in flight, especially for the left tank if you are in the left seat. One more question while I'm at it: I was also baffled about the Carburetor Heat system. In the past when I have pulled it on to test it, I get no RPM drop. I actually got out of the habit of testing it because of that. Today I removed the upper engine cowling and pulled the carburetor heat fully on. I could hear the door inside the intake hitting the full travel stop inside the intake (and I could see that the arm had moved a lot. So: Am I supposed to have an RPM drop when I activate it fully? I did not start it up and re-verify this time. And I don't think I have done it during the 3000 RPM mag check. Thanks in advance for any input. We did get some nice pictures and Hazel even took 3 video's (which I could not download to my PC, dang. We did upload one of them to Facebook. Posting a few pics . . . Thanks, ET
  3. ibjet

    Engine quit in flight

    Wow, I am amazed at the "brain trust" here. Thanks gentlemen! I was on a 4 mile final and pretty well lined up with the runway, but I'm sure I did some rudder input to correct my alignment with the runway. Thank you very very much for these last 3 inputs, you've changed my attitude, I was convinced I didn't need to worry about which tank my fuel was residing in, ha ha. Now I realize the importance of balancing it. I did over an hour of flying yesterday. The second time I climbed to 10,000 then throttled to idle and descended all the way back until I was pattern altitude at Kingman. Never any problem at all with the engine and it didn't stumble when I added power (both my previous airplanes had that issue). There might not have been as much moisture in the air as last Friday, but if I can cut to idle abruptly at 10,000 with no issues, I'm happy. I love the Rotax 912! Many thanks!!! ET
  4. ibjet

    Engine quit in flight

    Thanks for all the great input gentlemen! Yes, I did the flow test with my annual. It drove me crazy 'cause I could not pass when going thru the gascolator drain. When I took the gascolator bowl off, the flow from each tank was fine, more than 10 gallons per hour as I remember. I did check the fuel cap vents at annual, was not sure about how clear they were so I soaked them each in acetone and blew them out with compressed air and they seemed the same (definitely had air flow). I also adjusted them so they faced forward more correctly then they had been (I had also installed new O-rings so needed to correct the pointing of the vent tubes). I also removed the carburetor bowls at the end of my annual and drained them out by suction tube (syphoned). I did not get any debris, but the gas looked like whiskey, I was very glad I took the trouble to drain them! As I said, after thinking thru everything that had happened, I decided it was probably carb ice and it was worse on one side of the engine than the other (accounting for the vibration when I applied increased throttle). And, since I got the confirmation that one empty tank will not cause gas starvation, I am back leaning toward that as my prime suspect. It did run fine for the long taxi to my hangar and did fine with my mag check which would indicate possibly that the icing issue was cleared up because of the ground level temps (probably about 70 by about 5 pm). So, in flight when I cut throttle to idle, I was probably still at 6,000, had been in much cooler air and there was a cloud base at around 10,000 and fairly moist air. Of course when you cut to idle that is when you get maximum pressure differential in your carburetor, max temp drop right at the slide. I've got 10 gallons in the left tank now and about 8 in the right. I'll go see if it has done the normal overnight transferring from the right tank into the left tank. I would expect to see the right tank quite a bit lower now. Just not sure how fast/slow that transfer is. But, the plane is sitting with the right wing higher by about 0.1/0.2 degrees. I'll also do a calibration of my digital level at home first and see if I can nail that down better. Still baffled that the gas in the right wing did not transfer to the left wing Saturday (even tilted it more Sunday for about an hour. It seems like when that gas line from the tank to the gascolator is empty, you get an air bound situation. And, that should clear up once you have a good quantity of gas in that tank (hopefully)!!! If not it would fix itself once you do some flying. I plan to do a run up today, maybe a high speed taxi, then probably fly it locally and climb fairly high and put some time on it. Kingman has a really long runway so I'll set it right back down if it misses at all. I will do at least one more post here. I really wish I had done that flow test before putting in the 10 gallons. Might drain the left tank again but it would also drain the right at the same time so I'd fill 4 gas cans in the process. But, now I know my carb heat is working (have verified full travel of the flap inside the air cleaner box). So, lesson learned, I certainly will pull that carb heat control all the way out if I have this problem again. Again gentlemen, It is so awesome to have this great knowledge base, really appreciate the effort, give yourselves a big pat on the back! Thank you! ET
  5. There's not really a good category for this discussion but I wanted to share my joy with being able to load in my folding bike. I used to have 2 Dahon folding bikes and nylon bags for them and had a blast doing fly in vacations. Fav was flying into Columbia Airport in CA. They have a campground and hot showers and a freezer with bagged ice. The town is a restored mining town and very fun to sight see. Anyway, when I went shopping Dahon bikes were very expensive, so I ended up buying a Vilano folding bike for under $200, I think it was $159. OK, so the problem was, it would not fit thru the cargo door or even the rectangular opening behind the seat. I loaded it into the passenger seat a time or 2, but it was very cumbersome. So, this past week, I designed and built a platform that takes the place of the passenger seat and gives a place to firmly mount a folding bike. I used the last 2 holes in the seat rails as the main attach points. In the rear of the platform it just sits on the landing gear bolt boss that is visible when you remove the seat. I'm attaching 5 pictures I took when I finally installed it. I did a 3D model of it, that I hand dimensioned if anybody would want to duplicate this. The last picture shows a solid link bar to keep the bike from rotating back or forward. The Vilano is an all aluminum frame and I'm really happy with it, now that I can bring it along easily. I'm definitely going to Columbia this spring!!!
  6. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    Yes, that's frustrating how the belts work loose. They seem to be really well designed. At least they are easy to re-tighten! Wish you were in the USA, we could do a mini fly in for biking, ha ha. Planning to fly in to Columbia, CA pretty soon now. That is a restored mining town. The airport has a campground right next to it (taxi over and tie down, it's over dirt, but Oh well, ha ha). It's fun riding the path into town multiple times a day.
  7. I decided to start a new topic because I had mis-titled this and could not figure out how to revise the title. So, here is the problem: My pitch control had gotten a binding condition. When I moved the Stabilator up it would pop thru a resistance and then when I would lower it, it would go back thru that resistance. I decided to stop flying it that way because it was affecting my ability to flair the plane on landing. After a lot of experimenting I finally discovered that the main issue was the Spherical Bearing in the tail had corroded and frozen (would not swivel at all). My CT has apparently spent quite a stint living outdoors. I noticed in the Parts & Assembly Manual that the Spherical Bearing had a commercial part number: GE 12 E so I did a search and found a surplus company that had one new for very reasonable (it is a SKF German made bearing). For anyone who has this condition, to isolate, you could disconnect the pitch control cable from the bell crank arm and see if it is free to move up and down a bit (mine was not, the spherical ball was frozen in the outer race). Also the dead give away, once you remove that connection, the stabilator travels smoother and the stick front to back motion becomes smoother. In the process I made 2 tools that are worth showing: The first is a tool to compress the spring assembly in the tail. This is so you can disconnect the ball joint that connects the spring assembly to the pitch control bell crank. You need a couple 7 MM open end wrenches to do this, one regular and the other with a near right angle open end (because the ball joint post only has 2 flats on it, not a hex). The second is a tool to press out the Stabilator mount bracket axle bolt. It should push out easily, but in my 13 year old CT it did not. I tried tapping it out and it jammed (big time). I bought a chop saw so that I could make the wood pieces nice and true. Eric Swisher shared a link showing what the pitch control cable is made of, thanks Eric! It is supposedly maintenance free except the end rods can be lubed: http://www.flexballitaliana.com/prodotto.php?idprodotto=80 Speaking of lube, I will show what I bought for that, thanks to recommendation from Roger Lee, you da man Roger!!! And the last picture is the culprit: The frozen up spherical bearing. By the way, all the friction points in the tail needed to be lubed (I used the iNox MX3 with the injection needle, they also make spray, I think the needle version is best).
  8. ibjet

    Pitch control binding

    I used the Inox injector bottle, 60 ml. I was concerned about getting overspray on the composite structure. The injector bottle is also cheaper, maybe that was the tipping point, ha ha. I bought mine from eBay, but I just checked and Amazon carries both versions: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_6?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=inox+mx3+lubricant&sprefix=inox+m%2Caps%2C235&crid=112FFQPNL6BS9
  9. ibjet

    Pitch control binding

    Got everything hooked up this evening. Elevator travel is now lighter and smoother, yay, success. So, the main culprit was the GE 12 E spherical bearing in the tail. So, moral of the story: Lube it or lose it, ha ha. I am using that iNox Lanolin lube and for what you cannot reach with the needle applicator, I put a drop on the end of a straightened/clean coat hangar wire, and reach what I want to lube (it wicks in easily). I ended up needing to make a longer base for my axle push in tool so that I could push the axle in. Quite a magic trick to get everything all lined up so the axle will go in. I used the handle shaft of an exacto blade knife as a pilot in the far end to hold that part in line.
  10. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    Nice bike! Very creative getting it in (pretty similar to my mounting). I think you should work out some way to assure the bike cannot shift. Mine is even scarier than yours because I have cables that come close to the control stick. Enjoy your combination hobby! Thanks for sharing the pics.
  11. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Still had the binding when I hooked up the elevator cable rod end to the bell crank again! There is a spherical bearing at the rear cable mount bracket. It will not swivel at all. I lubed it with the iNox, but no luck. I also noticed that the cable rod end is not lined up well with the hole in the bell crank. When I force the rod end down during connection, that is when the binding happens. I did a little search (because the parts manual says it is a GE 12 E bearing, and I found it pretty cheap on eBay and bought it (SKF GE 12 E made in Germany). In a bit I will go back out to my hangar and try to disconnect the front and rear cable mount brackets and see if I can move the whole cable assembly back far enough to get to the rear cable mount bracket assembly and work on it (free up the spherical bearing or remove it). Anybody had this issue? Anybody move the whole elevator cable assembly back?
  12. I just recently started flying my CTSW again. It took me "forever and a day" to do my annual (first time, nobody local with a CT or even a Rotax). So, now that I am flying and it's getting cold in Kingman, I'm noticing that my stabilator is sticking when I move it up (I can feel it binding when I move it back toward center travel, not a good thing on short final! I looked at the cable ends and it seems like the best thing is to take off the dorsal fin and remove the cable out the rear of the airplane. QUESTIONS: 1). Is this how to lube it? 2). What lube should I use? I have the silicone paste, thinking that would be good because it will not thicken in cold weather???
  13. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Removed the horizontal yesterday and it looks like Roger was right once again!!! I had not noticed but the rod end that connects the elevator cable had a very light coat of rust! One of the 2 trim tab actuators has a very tight rod end (I'm betting it is totally dry inside). The full width trim tab (not sure if they have another name for it) is fairly hard to move. And, yesterday I got the iNox MX3 that Roger recommended. I got the non-spray with a drip needle, think that makes the best sense (to avoid getting lanolin on the structure). I drilled a hole thru a 1x4 about 30 inches long and and mounted it as a counter balance for the counter balance, ha ha. So, my plan is to clean and lube everything (I'll have to peal off the nylon tape to get to the trim tab hinges) but I have new tape. And, as I reconnect things I will check for binding each time. I will also lube the connections in the cockpit. I will have to do one more final post here to confirm. But, Roger or anyone who has removed the horizontal tail: What the heck is that extra ball joint for? I removed it from the control arm and it fell out, ha ha. Is this just a spare ball joint? Nice of them, ha ha. Evening update: I cleaned the spring assembly in acetone and then I re-lubed it with the iNox. When I re-lubed the ball joint, I was amazed. It had been very stiff, it now tilts and rotates MUCH freer. I don't think all the moving parts in the tail have been lubed in many years! And, by the way Roger - I also decided to safety wire the spring assembly together, thought about trying to thread the rod end post into the control arm and decided it would be worth giving the wiring a try. It's gonna be real fun getting the wire back off the assembly, but, say la vie! Again Roger, thank you for your great help so many times on this forum!!!
  14. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I don't think I will need to do that pre-compressing thing, my set up allows me to compress the spring and go hands free. I'm chomping at the bit to remove my horizontal but by the time I was home from chores, it was 41 degrees, and I just could not force myself to go. Sitting at home in front of my fireplace, ha ha. It'll be warmer here tomorrow and I'll make more progress.
  15. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Yes, thanks Roger, I have the newer version spring assembly with the guides. Hopefully I will make it out to the hangar and continue my evaluation today. It just doesn't seem right that the front end of the spring assy is located by a small shaft which travels fwd/aft and it goes into a much larger hole. I actually ordered some 1" dia Teflon rod to make a bushing for that spot. Not sure if I will follow thru.
  16. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I finally got the spring assembly removed. Thought I'd share some pictures. I see a problem already - the spring assembly is not held in place on the FWD end except by a thru hole in the composite material (see bottom hole in pict 4). The center shaft of the spring assembly is way smaller diameter than that hole. I think there needs to be a bushing there of some kind. The parts and assembly manual does not show anything there. Tomorrow I will hook up the elevator cable and trim cables again and see if the binding is still there (without the spring assembly). If so, I will next check into the trim tab and it's linkage. Final chaper yet to come, ha ha, . . .
  17. I recently decided to order a 3 D Printer. I have 2 broken plastic parts in my cabin that I will remake with PLA plastic. Not at all sure if they will hold up, but I can always go for a more exotic filament material later. I used TinkerCAD to create a 3 D model of the part (it's very easy to mirror the part for the other side). I will update this post once I install the parts and find out how well they hold up. I looked on the FD parts manual and they do not show a part number or name for them. I call it Door Lever Guide Plate. My broken part has a P/N A101359. I would be willing to share my 3 D model with anyone who wants to try this. The front and rear mount holes are fairly critical for fit, they are 200 MM apart in my CT. The middle hole has a floating fastener, so location is not critical for fit. That floating fastener falls into the door cavity if you unscrew the screw completely!!!
  18. ibjet

    Door Lever Guide Plate

    ABS is definitely stronger. The challenge for this particular part will be getting it to withstand heat exposure (like time on the tarmac on a hot summer day. For that, it would be better to machine the part out of Delrin or equiv (which is grey like the original parts. I went with the most common 3D print filament just so I could get usable parts without too many hours of learning how to deal with the more difficult filaments. But, if I had bought a mini CNC Mill I would have used Delrin. The parts I made are holding up fine so far. Not at all sure they will servive a hot day outside! Great question!!! ET
  19. ibjet

    No fuel crossfeed.

    Just saw this subject and thought I would add my 2 cents, ha ha. I have had the same experience with my 2006 CTSW. I only have an On/Off fuel selector which I leave on 99.9% of the time. Anyway, mine always drains the right tank way more than the left. I really freaked out when I was doing my annual this past year and I could not get good flow out of the left wing. I finally removed the gascolator bowl and found that I had plenty of flow (the gascolator drain port is very restrictive, thought about it and decided I didn't want it to flow really fast out of there, ha ha). One good aspect: I fuel just the right tank, simplifies my fuel logistics, ha ha. I don't have a solution, just living with it. KEEP MORE RESERVE FUEL, ha ha.
  20. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I'm going to use a short length of 1" dia alum bar, but I will connect it to a long skinny piece of hardwood trim that I can clamp to a stationary table (once I get the Stabilator held down into neutral position). I will drill a .50 dia hole thru on center line (that will just clear the head of the ball joint). Then I will mill a flat along the side of the bar until I have a .300 wide opening that will clear the post of the ball joint. That way I will have a pretty big foot print to push the spring forward with, but I can also reach in with a 7 mm open end wrench to turn the post (mine is either Loctited in or just threaded in to the Trim actuator arm. When I try to loosen it, I'll hit it with my little heat gun first to soften the Loctite. Posting a picture showing the foot print of the tool that I will make (in red).
  21. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Thank you! This Forum is such an awesome resource! You know, like anything else, if you just pour yourself into it (cautiously, ha ha) after a while of swimming around in it, it just unveils itself. Now that I know how I will compress the spring, it does not seem like that much of a challenge. I have a mini milling machine so I can make little tool details when I need them. But the metal part needed for this could be made of tubing and the slot made with a Dremel motor. I'm looking forward to posting a picture . . .
  22. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    I did some more poking around . . . I loosened the nut that holds the spring rod end to the trim arm. Then I tried to turn the ball end shaft (it has 2 flats), the dang thing would not turn! I even pushed forward on the spring to take tension off. I guess it is threaded into the trim arm. It may even be Loctited on. Next time I'll shoot it with my little heat gun first. For my tool to compress the spring, I found I have some 1" dia alum rod, so I'll make something like the Safety Directive shows about 2 inches long and attach it to a long rectangular piece of hardwood trim. Then, I'll pull the Stabilator down into neutral position and apply that tool, and clamp the other end of it to a stationary table. I gotta do something like that to be able to remove the Stabilator so that I can re-connect the trim cables. But, I'm accomplishing the mission, learning what makes the Stabilator tick! Thanks for your info Roger. I'll have to show a picture of my set up when I get to it (multiplexing this week, ha ha).
  23. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    Thank you so much Roger, you are sooooo helpful, as usual! Still baffled what my "vanishing binding problem" could be. And with the Stabilator removed it will take a lot of force to move the Stabilator mount/pivot. So I might not even be able to feel the binding then. I think I have to go ahead and remove that spring assembly. I'll find suitable tubing and slot it like that Safety Alert shows. Then I'll have to come up with a way to hold the tubing against the spring while I work. Hmmm, move over Rube Goldberg, ha ha.
  24. ibjet

    Lubing the stabilator cable

    This afternoon I went and tried to remove my stabilator, but that is a bit tricky! I decided if I disconnect the cables, spring carrier, and link arm from the bell crank arm on the stabilator, that I would be able to remove the stabilator with the bell crank and balance weight/arm still attached. But, . . . as soon as I removed the trim tab cables from the bell crank arm, the stabilator whammed into the full up position! I thought the spring assembly was spring loaded to center travel, not!!! I tried pushing the spring assembly piston forward and I could do it, but now I need a way to push it forward and lock it. Being a retired aerospace manufacturing engineer, I can design and make a tool to do that, but I thought I would see if anybody can let me know how they solve this issue. Once I remove the stabilator, I still won't know what my binding issue is, but this is just what I gotta do! Roger Lee - Please read my prior posting and let me know if any of this makes sense to you!!! Season's greetings all, happy flying . . . ET
  25. ibjet

    Cargo platform for folding bike

    I moved to Kingman at the end of 2004, so it's been that many years since I rode that trail. I do seem to remember that it was very rocky. But, I might not be talking about the same section you are. The trail that I rode starts just to the West of the Airport Vortex. We rode our bikes up hill to that area, and then lifted them over the steel road barrier where the trail begins (I now see that it is a loop). We rode it to Table Top and then crossed Oak Creak at Red Rock Crossing heading back to Oak Creak Village (where I lived at the time). We rode from Oak Creak Village to West Sedona every Wednesday for several months for lunch. That ride would be way out of my league now-a-days, ha ha. But, I will pursue my hobby this spring (it's gonna be quite a project to build that sling and rail so that I can load the bike into my CT. Only a knuckle head like me would attempt it, ha ha. Then, I know I'm not gonna be happy with the gear ratios of the bike. Gonna need a mega-range cassette or something. My current MTB I made into a 10 speed and I love that, so that may be where I end up. ET
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