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solarguy54

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  • Content count

    38
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  • Last visited

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About solarguy54

  • Rank
    Jr. Crew Member
  • Birthday November 29

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.kestrelaviationservices.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cottonwood, AZ
  • Interests
    LSA
  • Gender
    Male
  1. Skyview Classic

    I did the upgrade and it was a piece of cake. Still driving it off of the Garmin. To switch to the Skyview will require 1. configuring a Skyview serial port 2. adding a serial out wire from the Skyview to the Vizion 3. removing the two ARINC wires from the Garmin to the Vizion What I think I will do is add a DP3T toggle switch so I can select either the Garmin or the Skyview to drive the autopilot from the panel. Very simple.
  2. Skyview Classic

    Did you need to get an MRA from FD for that? Sounds like a great solution. The upgrade is $1K ($300 trade-in on the Digiflight II VS Sid
  3. High Oil Temps

    Where can I get the 90 degree fittings? Thanks, Roger!
  4. Skyview Classic

    So I just installed the Dynon SV-ADSB-472 module under an FD MRA on a Skyview Classic 2012 CTLS. INSTALL WENT GREAT. I’ve also added the Dynon Wi-Fi adapter so I can link Foreflight to the Skyview for ADS-B in to Foreflight and flight plans out to Skyview moving map. Awesome! BUT, the Digiflight II-VS autopilot is NOT driven from the Skyview, but is driven off of the Garmin 696. I wonder why FD picked the Digiflight instead of the Dynon autopilot servers? Skyview comes standard with full autopilot. Anyway, I want to drive the autopilot from the Skyview instead of the Garmin so it can follow a route uploaded from Foreflight. According to Dynon, this only requires a single serial wire change out of a serial port on the Skyview. Has anyone done this? Does it require an LOA from FD?
  5. High Oil Temps

    Wait. Where’s the oil thermostat? And how do I remove it?
  6. High Oil Temps

    Here's some photos. Everything seems to be OK. Thoughts? There really aren't too many places where there could be a restriction. Oil pressure is OK.
  7. High Oil Temps

    After doing a 5-year rubber replacement on our 2012 CTLS, I've noticed higher oil temps. On a 74 degree day, during climbs, temps will go to 255 and I have to level off and wait for them to come down. I've checked all of the hoses for blockages, have replaced the sensor (thinking it went bad), took the oil filter off and flushed it. Any other suggestions? thanks, Sid Lloyd
  8. Low Fuel Pressure

    Great news. Based on a tip from someone else who has had this problem, I checked the orifice on the return fuel line to the gascolator. Sure enough, it was partially blocked with a tiny bit of fuel line debris from the recent rubber replacement. To find it, I had to screw the restrictor out of the barb connection and there it was. I'll let you know how it works on a hot day, but I think that was the problem. Corey, you might want to check this on your CTs that have been showing this behavior on hot days. Thanks for everyone's help. Sid
  9. Low Fuel Pressure

    And that's what I'm asking myself! It started after I replaced a 2012 fuel pump. But then I switched the new fuel pump with the same model fuel pump on a 2009 CTLS. Same thing happened. Also, the weather has just warmed up. Perhaps the Maverick gas station where I'm getting my 91 octane auto fuel is still using winter blend fuel. I know that a local new RV-12 is having some vapor lock problems too. I'm putting in a new sensor. It should be in in a few days. Also, I checked the clearance on the banjo bolts at the clamp block. I'm already using the thick washers (used and re-heated/quenched to soften they still measure 1.28mm as opposed to the .8mm washers that cause that problem.) I've checked all of the fuel system except removing and inspecting the transducer. Maybe I'll do that. I suppose something could be partially blocking the transducer.
  10. Low Fuel Pressure

    How much avgas do you add?
  11. Low Fuel Pressure

    Thanks. Here’s another possibility. SI-912-08. If you reuse copper washers and the clearance between the ends of the banjo bolts at the clamp block are insufficient, it can lead to intermittent sensor failure. Banjo bolt end clearance issues can also be caused by over-torqued banjo bolts. Must have minimum of .5mm clearance. I’ll check mine today. Will also clean sensor.
  12. Low Fuel Pressure

    Thanks Corey. Do you have the SB number? I can’t find it.
  13. Low Fuel Pressure

    Thanks. I just tried that and it didn't help. Fuel pressure drops briefly after a long, hot engine taxi (minimum throttle) followed by full throttle application (taking off after a full-stop landing and taxi back to departure end of runway). Concurrent with the fuel pressure drop is an rapid brief increase in fuel flow. from a taxi rate of 1 g/h to 10 or 12 gph. This is brief. Maybe 10 seconds. After that, the fuel pressure returns to normal full power pressure (in the mid 4's psi) and the fuel flow drops to the normal WOT of just over 6 gph. Since there are two different sensors involved, (fuel pressure and fuel flow transducer) this leads me to believe that it is an accurate depiction of what is happening. The only thing I can thing of is some kind of fuel vapor building in the line. I just finished my 5 year rubber replacement and I'm wondering if something isn't correct.
  14. Low Fuel Pressure

    So I just finished a 5-year rubber replacement on a 2012. Replaced the fuel pump as well. Now, on a warm day, after full-stop landing and a taxi back to the departure end of the runway, when full power is applied the fuel pressure will drop. From 4-5 psi down to 2 and sometimes down to 0. This generates a low fuel pressure warning (of course). Also, the fuel flow will jump to 10 or 12 gph while the low fuel pressure light is on. This will last for about 10-15 seconds, then the fuel pressure and fuel flow return to normal. I changed fuel pumps, and the same thing happens. Any thoughts? Are you supposed to vent the fuel pressure line or something? Could this be vapor? thanks, Sid Lloyd
  15. Rotax Power

    Wow, you guys were RIGHT ON!!! I had to pull the engine mount/engine to remove the airbox and give it a thorough check. Turns out that when the carb heat was OFF, the fresh air intake was partially closed. And it was significant. So I've lubed it and adjusted the cable. Now it opens FULLY!!! Can't wait to try it out and experience the increased HP. Thanks guys!!! Sid
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