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garrettgee2001

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About garrettgee2001

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  • Location
    Mississippi
  • Interests
    Aviation (obviously)
    Flight Instructing
    Computers/Programming/Electronics Tinkering
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. I would venture a guess and say probably not. I didn’t know if that hole was in all aircraft or not. Mine had it when I got it, so I assumed that it was standard. Apologies.
  2. Really!?!? I had no idea. Was like that when I purchased it (cable was already installed), and nothing was said at the last condition inspection. I’ll get that fixed ASAP!
  3. Was able to get to the airport today and get a few pictures. Hope these help with how mine is setup.
  4. Thanks Tom. I do plan on going IFR, but not hard IMC by any means. I use my CT for business travel mostly, and having the capability to pop through a thin layer (which has caused me problems a couple times in the past) is nice. More often than not though, I file IFR (on VMC days) to “stay in the system”.
  5. I am looking in the CTLS manual from FD USA and am struggling to find some information as it relates to the Pitot Static lines. I just finished installing the Dynon Autopilot Servos (only flew once with them so far, but they are pretty awesome) to replace the TruTrak system, and need to remove the TruTrak head unit. Problem is, the TruTrak head unit has a connection to the Pitot and Static lines. Question 1: What size Pitot and Static lines does a 2010 CTLS with the Skyview System use? I have read 6mm, but Dynon packages use 1/4" (small difference in size, but a difference none the less). Question 2: Which pitot tube (on systems with dual ADAHRS) does the line split from to go to the TruTrak head unit? Question 3: Looking for opinions here. Would it be better to remove the split at the Pitot and Static ports and use a coupler, or would it be better to "cap" the lines behind the instrument panel. Question 4: If it is better to cap the lines, does anyone know of a good way to do so? I need to make sure that it is "sealed" so that it will pass the pitot/static/transponder checks coming up and remain legal. I appreciate any and all help!
  6. Good to know. He is a little over an hour’s flight from me.
  7. It is far away from the heat diffuser. I’ll get you a picture as soon as I can that shows it.
  8. I'll try to remember to grab a photo next time I am at the airport. This is on a CTLS. You are correct, I have one cable for each screen that plugs into the back, and then route behind the panel to the lower left and lower right foot well, with a hole drilled for the passthrough.
  9. I like the idea of the panel mount USB, but cutting into the panel (at least accurately) seems like to much work (plus the chance of messing up the cut). I have a usb extension cable that connects to the Dynon Skyview and that is run behind the panel, and exits through a small hole in the mushroom in the foot well, basically at the door frame. Kind of hard to describe, but the USB for the left display is near where the pilots left foot would be (but closer to the door frame), and the right display is near where the right foot would be.
  10. When it gets super cold in Mississippi (lower 20s upper 10s), I will block off about 1/2 - 3/4 of the radiator with tape. Has worked well. I am looking to make a metal plate that can be easily put on and taken off as one of my next projects. That helps with the in flight temps, but not much with the warm up.
  11. I too have been curious about a big bore kit. I have seen two or three different kits out there for the Rotax. Which one are they using? I have looked at zipper big bore, and it seems to have good reviews.
  12. My hangar does not have water hookup anywhere close to it, but I talked to the airport manager and he very happily let me use a water hookup that they use for watering flowers and bushes. Just had to have a long water hose. Additionally, I will premix composiclean bucket wash in a couple of 1 gallon milk jugs and “spot clean” in between washes.
  13. There are several companies that make things like this. Might be an option. Would probably have to have the panel recut though. https://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/ifdr-panel-mount-for-ipad-air-1-air-2-and-pro-9-7.html?utm_source=google_shopping&m=simple&&mrkgcl=596&mrkgadid=3052702985&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=iPad%2FiPhone%2FAndroid&adpos=1o1&creative=295428069982&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9dDwBRC9ARIsABbedBMDRsS8ekINy6AagOchCrVJLAFty8-sYMFq9tbNgHL8jAS1ep2m2KgaAu5BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
  14. The Skyview and the D100 from what I can tell can both drive the Servos. There is no requirement (but an option exists for a dedicated) control unit. The Servo's talk to the unit view the "skyview network", which is how all of the other Dynon modules (ADAHRS, ARINC, Radios, etc) communicate with the displays. But as Bill Ince said, you have to have the Dynon servos.
  15. Depending on how crowded the panel is, you could have a shop cut the horizontal "flat pack" and use one of those, and have a cover plate cut for the vertical. I don't know of any vertical mount AP head units for TruTrak. They quoted me $1000 to upgrade the head unit, as the servos are the same. Probably would not be to much work, but given they are not supporting the vertical mount... I don't know if Dynon's autopilot integrates with the D100, but that is also an option to look at. Servos are only $750 (I say only, but compared to others) and at least for the skyview, do not require a head unit. It is all driven from the Dynon panel. If compatible, that would allow you to remove the head unit entirely.\ Edit. Here is the link to the Dynon page. Click on the D10/D100 series. Their head unit is vertical mount. https://dynonavionics.com/autopilot-overview.php
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