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About mikey70

  • Rank
    Jr. Crew Member

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  • Location
    Rogers AR
  • Interests
    Aviation, motorcycles, kyaking.
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  1. Having eliminated carburetion, I am of the opinion that it is ignition modules. They are the original ones from 2006 which seem to be more problematic. Others have reported this problem surfacing when the airplane has sat for a while and then only on the first start of the day. That is consistent with what I am seeing. So the next step will be to remove the modules and send them in for testing.
  2. I will be there Saturday and Sunday wandering around aimlessly.
  3. So today I turned on the fuel valve and did some other work for about an hour before coming back to pull the airplane out. I also tried a different method of starting. Half choke instead of full and throttle cracked about 1/4 inch instead of closed. Just like magic it started INSTANTLY just like it used to. I used to leave the fuel valve on all the time and just recently started turning it off. I understand some of you have problems leaving it on but that does not seem to be the case for me. If the floats, needle and seat are working correctly it should not be a problem. After all, we fly for hours with 3.5 psi from the fuel pump. Static pressure would be .43 psi per foot so maybe .75 to 1.0 psi at the carb since the tank is a couple of feet above the carb. (thats for water, slightly different for fuel.) For now I'm just happy to confirm there is nothing wrong with the equipment while I try to isolate whether its the fuel valve being on or starting procedure.
  4. I pulled the bowls off again and checked the starting carb jets, clean but I cleaned them anyway, cleaned and inspected the cavity they rest in, blew through the Starting Carb induction tube to make sure it was clear, removed the starting carb and checked it all over and replaced the carb bowl gaskets. Everything looked normal and was clean, there was fuel in the bowl when I took it off. All normal but it still take way too long to start, I don't think the starting carb is working.
  5. The battery was replaced at the annual, there was nothing wrong it was just two years old and I didn't want to be stranded. I think mine was changed to a PC 510 years ago so I stayed with it. If they are fully charged they are just large enough to get the job done except if you try to run everything including a Halogen Landing light. Then you will eventually get low voltage alarm. I keep mine on a battery tender when not in use. I thought I was doing myself a favor by draining the carb bowls but I don't think I will do it again. For really long term storage (like 3 months or more), I would either drain the tanks and carbs or replace all the fuel with 100LL, it will last a long time before getting funky. I noticed on my fuel valve I cannot completely shut it off unless I have the key out. I noticed it when I serviced the gascolator and it kept on dribbling.
  6. I can't imagine this hasn't been covered but I could not find it in a search. I have had a 2007 CTSW since October of last year. Always started immediately cold with throttle closed and choke (starting carbs) on. Hot starts immediate with throttle cracked. Did the annual in May, replaced floats per the SB, increased idle from 1700 to 2000 rpm, and synched carbs. Starts were normal and it idled and ran much smoother after the carb synch. After the annual I did a 10- hour cross country and when I came home I decided to close the fuel valve and run it out of fuel since I was going to be gone for a few weeks. Upon return it would not start, plugs were dry, so I removed the carb bowls to check the needle and seat, everything looked normal but still did not want to start easily but eventually caught. Once started it idles and runs completely normal. I decided to reverse my changes so I put the idle back to 1700 and re synched the carbs since I had manipulated the carbs on and off numerous times. Engine now running even smoother than before, literally zero vibration at any RPM, but still hard to start. Using a normal starting procedure I crank it for 5 seconds then rest then crank again. I may take 3 tries or as many as 7. Fuel pressure is 3.5 running 2.5 cranking. Once running the starting carb will make it run faster and rougher which seems correct, Bowden cable adjustments are correct on the starting carbs. The only thing that makes any sense is that the starting carb jets plugged when I ran the bowl dry, if so, then why do they appear to work correctly once the engine is running? I have been running nothing but 91 octane ethanol free unleaded. On the cross country in question I had to buy some 100LL so probably had 50/50 mix. I would change back to the original floats but they worked fine on the cross country, only had problems after running the carbs out of fuel. I will clean the starting jets but any other thoughts would be appreciated.
  7. How did you get the panel redone in black. It looks great.
  8. Most modern automotive paint shops (at least here in the states) have a machine that can color match if you can bring them a component. One of the wheel pants or the spinner should do the trick. Mine need repainting and that's how I will handle it.
  9. I just went through this a few months ago when I bought a 2007 SW. Start with the logbooks. Ask if you can make copies of the logbooks so you can study them. I did it with my cell phone, it took less than 30 minutes. If you are a long way away ask if the owner will do it and email you or post it to dropbox or equivalent. Take your time and study the logbooks, where has the airplane been, who worked on it, were all the service bulletins done, how many hours was it flown each year, were there any major repairs, if it had 100 hour inspections was it used for instruction or rental, are logbook entries detailed or just what was required, and so on. You can look up Service Documents for the airframe here: https://flightdesign.com/service-documents/#1531120057294-851a7d13-e89e and for the engine here: https://www.flyrotax.com/services/technical-documentation.html The SW will have the 912 ULS As mentioned, look for the 5 year hose replacement, also the parachute needs repacked every 6 years and the rocket every 12 years could be a couple grand when done together, the gearbox needs removed and inspected periodically 800 hours I think, there should be a few entries for carb synchronization and probably a carb overhaul or two, and the gearbox torque should have been checked a few times and oil tank cleaned every year or so, more frequently if 100LL was used. If they used 100LL oil changes should be more frequent, as is cleaning the oil tank. Watch this video and then part two when it is done, best 90 minutes you can spend to learn a little about Rotax 4 stroke engines. Personally, I like the glass cockpit and the autopilot. Back in the day, that kind of capability would have cost you more than a used airplane was worth. You could certainly expect to pay less for something with steam gauges, or something that has been sitting outside a long time, or something with sketchy records, or high time, or indication it has been sitting idle a long time. You can PM me if you have specific questions.
  10. I have flown since I put the flap back in place and it is much better. With OAT at 40 F I had the heat valve about 1/3 open and was comfortable in a light jacket. In my case the plumbing was all ok, I just wasn't getting any airflow INTO the heat shroud. In my case, I was not feeling any air coming in to the floor vents or windshield. Perhaps you have already tried this, but you might be able to pinpoint where the restriction is by disconnecting the duct hose at the firewall heat valve and push the smoke through just the heat shroud. If that works ok then inject the smoke right at the heat valve and see how that works.
  11. The problem of no cabin heat has been well documented here and as suggested, I covered the cabin openings with foam blocks which did indeed reduce the air infiltration, however I still wasn't getting any heat. I checked the butterfly valve on the firewall and it was working correctly. When I inspected the air plenum that feeds the heat shroud I noticed that the rubber gasket on the front is made up of individual pieces of rubber and not the one piece that is shown in the parts manual. When installing the bottom cowling, the bottom piece of rubber will more than likely position itself so as to block the airflow into the heat shroud. No air flow = no heat. Its easy enough to tuck this rubber piece under the cowl opening after the cowl is fastened and that fixed the problem of no heat. The guy I bought the airplane from did not know about it either. He said the heater did not work. I believe this could also lead to a lack of carburetor heat as well so its more than just creature comfort.
  12. Anybody going to Fun and Sun this year.? I am planning on being there either with the airplane or the camper. We can have a mini get together.
  13. Congrats on getting back into flying. I took a 20+ year layoff from flying after selling my Mooney in 1994. Figured I would never own another airplane till I was visiting a friend who owns an FBO in Idaho. He had a 2007 CTSW that just wasn't as popular in the rental market as he thought so he figured he would sell it. I looked at it, sat in it, fired up the glass panel, went for a ride in it and to my surprise, bought it. Best thing I have ever done. It was my 70th birthday present to myself! Oh what the hell, its the kids money anyway. Enjoy and report back with plenty of pictures.
  14. The 696 is currently installed with 4 small screws directly into the back of the unit through a bracket mounted to the instrument panel. I do not have a 796 to look at but the pictures I have seen do not show the same threaded holes on the 796. There is a Garmin aera 796 bare wire mount which may adapt to the existing bracket. I do not care if the unit is easily removable so I don't need the airgizmo unless its the only option Is there another way to handle this?
  15. Agree with all of that, especially the landing part. I stick one out of three now. Probably wont feel comfortable till I have about 100 landings. I had a 66 C model, loved it but in many ways the CT is more fun.
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