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About mikey70

  • Rank
    Jr. Crew Member

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  • Location
    KROG Rogers AR
  • Interests
    Aviation, motorcycles, kyaking.
  • Gender

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  1. If anyone else is looking for the 696 and mounting plate I have an identical setup I am swapping out for a 796 when I do my annual later this spring. The database was updated a little over a year ago. The radio opening fits the Garmin Radio and Transponder.
  2. All great ideas, ultimately we want to modulate the air flow so that oil temps run in the Green during cruise. I tried a metal plate bolted on to the cooler but I found that at outside temps around 40 F temps were getting too high and at 30 F without the plate they were way too low. I am now using pieces of Ester Foam (Grey, lightweight and easily compressed) to partially block the air flow. As outside temperatures change these blocks can easily be adjusted to changed the amount of cooling. The block I started with was 3 inches thick and I also made plugs to block the drafty openings in the wings by using different hole saws.
  3. Flaring too high seems to be a common problem in the CT, especially for those who learned to fly in other aircraft. It took me 50 hours to get it right. Something about the sight picture through the window is making you think you are lower than you really are. Perhaps the fact that the dash is curved more than many other airplanes gives a different optical picture.
  4. I would also say be prepared to go around if you don't like the way things are going. Gusty conditions are frequently intermittent and/or changing directions which means your 2nd approach may be a piece of cake. I recently took a long cross country and when I stopped for fuel there was a very gusty crosswind with peak gust at the maximum crosswind component. At the moment of touchdown it was just a straight crosswind with no gusts and it was an easy landing with rudder and aileron correction. In the FBO there was a 182 pilot who was waiting out the gusty conditions before departing and he asked me how I managed to get that "little thing" on the runway? As mentioned here previously, keep flying the airplane all the way to the tie down.
  5. I never received a reply from the European company that repairs the modules. I continued testing by applying cold packs to the modules for a few minutes and it started immediately every time. And so............. $2000 later I have new modules and they are wired up for soft start which, by the way makes a noticeable difference in the vibration shock of starting. I did not change the flywheel. It may be my imagination but the cruising fuel flow seems to be just a bit lower by maybe 0.2 gph, from 5.0 to 4.8. I don't believe the running timing settings are changed at all so this may indicate there was a slight change in run performance of one or both of the old modules.
  6. Enjoyed last year so much but will not make it this year. Flying to Florida next week though. Hope to see you next year. 

  7. Having eliminated carburetion, I am of the opinion that it is ignition modules. They are the original ones from 2006 which seem to be more problematic. Others have reported this problem surfacing when the airplane has sat for a while and then only on the first start of the day. That is consistent with what I am seeing. So the next step will be to remove the modules and send them in for testing.
  8. I will be there Saturday and Sunday wandering around aimlessly.
  9. So today I turned on the fuel valve and did some other work for about an hour before coming back to pull the airplane out. I also tried a different method of starting. Half choke instead of full and throttle cracked about 1/4 inch instead of closed. Just like magic it started INSTANTLY just like it used to. I used to leave the fuel valve on all the time and just recently started turning it off. I understand some of you have problems leaving it on but that does not seem to be the case for me. If the floats, needle and seat are working correctly it should not be a problem. After all, we fly for hours with 3.5 psi from the fuel pump. Static pressure would be .43 psi per foot so maybe .75 to 1.0 psi at the carb since the tank is a couple of feet above the carb. (thats for water, slightly different for fuel.) For now I'm just happy to confirm there is nothing wrong with the equipment while I try to isolate whether its the fuel valve being on or starting procedure.
  10. I pulled the bowls off again and checked the starting carb jets, clean but I cleaned them anyway, cleaned and inspected the cavity they rest in, blew through the Starting Carb induction tube to make sure it was clear, removed the starting carb and checked it all over and replaced the carb bowl gaskets. Everything looked normal and was clean, there was fuel in the bowl when I took it off. All normal but it still take way too long to start, I don't think the starting carb is working.
  11. The battery was replaced at the annual, there was nothing wrong it was just two years old and I didn't want to be stranded. I think mine was changed to a PC 510 years ago so I stayed with it. If they are fully charged they are just large enough to get the job done except if you try to run everything including a Halogen Landing light. Then you will eventually get low voltage alarm. I keep mine on a battery tender when not in use. I thought I was doing myself a favor by draining the carb bowls but I don't think I will do it again. For really long term storage (like 3 months or more), I would either drain the tanks and carbs or replace all the fuel with 100LL, it will last a long time before getting funky. I noticed on my fuel valve I cannot completely shut it off unless I have the key out. I noticed it when I serviced the gascolator and it kept on dribbling.
  12. I can't imagine this hasn't been covered but I could not find it in a search. I have had a 2007 CTSW since October of last year. Always started immediately cold with throttle closed and choke (starting carbs) on. Hot starts immediate with throttle cracked. Did the annual in May, replaced floats per the SB, increased idle from 1700 to 2000 rpm, and synched carbs. Starts were normal and it idled and ran much smoother after the carb synch. After the annual I did a 10- hour cross country and when I came home I decided to close the fuel valve and run it out of fuel since I was going to be gone for a few weeks. Upon return it would not start, plugs were dry, so I removed the carb bowls to check the needle and seat, everything looked normal but still did not want to start easily but eventually caught. Once started it idles and runs completely normal. I decided to reverse my changes so I put the idle back to 1700 and re synched the carbs since I had manipulated the carbs on and off numerous times. Engine now running even smoother than before, literally zero vibration at any RPM, but still hard to start. Using a normal starting procedure I crank it for 5 seconds then rest then crank again. I may take 3 tries or as many as 7. Fuel pressure is 3.5 running 2.5 cranking. Once running the starting carb will make it run faster and rougher which seems correct, Bowden cable adjustments are correct on the starting carbs. The only thing that makes any sense is that the starting carb jets plugged when I ran the bowl dry, if so, then why do they appear to work correctly once the engine is running? I have been running nothing but 91 octane ethanol free unleaded. On the cross country in question I had to buy some 100LL so probably had 50/50 mix. I would change back to the original floats but they worked fine on the cross country, only had problems after running the carbs out of fuel. I will clean the starting jets but any other thoughts would be appreciated.
  13. How did you get the panel redone in black. It looks great.
  14. Most modern automotive paint shops (at least here in the states) have a machine that can color match if you can bring them a component. One of the wheel pants or the spinner should do the trick. Mine need repainting and that's how I will handle it.
  15. I just went through this a few months ago when I bought a 2007 SW. Start with the logbooks. Ask if you can make copies of the logbooks so you can study them. I did it with my cell phone, it took less than 30 minutes. If you are a long way away ask if the owner will do it and email you or post it to dropbox or equivalent. Take your time and study the logbooks, where has the airplane been, who worked on it, were all the service bulletins done, how many hours was it flown each year, were there any major repairs, if it had 100 hour inspections was it used for instruction or rental, are logbook entries detailed or just what was required, and so on. You can look up Service Documents for the airframe here: https://flightdesign.com/service-documents/#1531120057294-851a7d13-e89e and for the engine here: https://www.flyrotax.com/services/technical-documentation.html The SW will have the 912 ULS As mentioned, look for the 5 year hose replacement, also the parachute needs repacked every 6 years and the rocket every 12 years could be a couple grand when done together, the gearbox needs removed and inspected periodically 800 hours I think, there should be a few entries for carb synchronization and probably a carb overhaul or two, and the gearbox torque should have been checked a few times and oil tank cleaned every year or so, more frequently if 100LL was used. If they used 100LL oil changes should be more frequent, as is cleaning the oil tank. Watch this video and then part two when it is done, best 90 minutes you can spend to learn a little about Rotax 4 stroke engines. Personally, I like the glass cockpit and the autopilot. Back in the day, that kind of capability would have cost you more than a used airplane was worth. You could certainly expect to pay less for something with steam gauges, or something that has been sitting outside a long time, or something with sketchy records, or high time, or indication it has been sitting idle a long time. You can PM me if you have specific questions.
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