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About CTSW Bob

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    Jr. Crew Member

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    NW Georgia
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  1. I was quoted $450, just as their website, and roughly a 10 day turn around from when it is received. I put in for the return authorization and will report back. While I would love the latest and greatest in my plane, and would upgrade if I only had to do one screen, I can’t justify dropping the funds for two screens when I only fly VFR and my Garmin Aera 660 drives my auto pilot and ForeFlight does the traffic and weather. $450 is easier to swallow and Dynon should be commended for standing behind their older avionics and repairing them for a reasonable fee.
  2. Thanks for the reply. I’ll call Dynon today and see what is involved with an upgrade or repair. At over 13 years old I’d imagine there’s been some substantial advances in technology.
  3. Hello- in my 2007 CTSW, my primary flight display Dynon D100 on my left side does not like to come on when cold. The right side engine monitor comes on within seconds when cold. I’m talking about 40 degree weather and below. The left side PFD will not come on for sometimes over 10 minutes or longer. When it finally comes on, it is black and white for the first few seconds, then the color comes in, dim, and then within 60 seconds all is good and normal. Any ideas? Not sure if I want to drop in a new HDX display, as I believe you are supposed to do both displays at once. I could see it topping $9-$10k pretty fast. Obviously won’t be a problem when the weather warms up, but I’m thinking it is sending me warning flares.. Bob
  4. I had the same set up when I bought my CTSW. I kept touching the screen on the 496 expecting it to do something! You can very easily and inexpensively change out the 496 to the Aera 660 with a panel mount. It will talk to your auto pilot too! I did all of it myself and I’m much happier with the setup. I too toss around the HDX upgrade. I could do both my panels and related gear for maybe under $10k? In the certified world a panel upgrade can easily surpass $100k. My panel is original, at now 14 years old. Still works perfect, but it owes me nothing. I’d leave the Aera 660 to drive the autopilot. I’m already ADSB compliant. Our planes are an investment in fun and freedom, and you can’t always justify upgrades other than the smile on your face. Just like a vacation, you can drop a wheel barrow of money in a week on a good one, and if you do it right, it’s worth it. Our planes, when taken care of, will hold their value as new ones keep costing more. I made significant profit on the last two planes I sold.
  5. I would never remove the fuel pump, but I was curious why it was there on my carbureted engine when it appears it may never be needed in the first place. Just seems like another failure point. If the pickup was in the right location, in the back of the tank aka Cessna 172/182, it should always have fuel except in a dive. Then again, if you run it that low would a fuel pump make any difference if the fuel can’t get out of the tank and into the fuel line? Does a carb need fuel pressure to fill a float bowl more than gravity feed? Our fuel systems, if my memory is correct, are designed to flow 150% of needed fuel by gravity alone. This is part of the annual inspection. You measure the flow into a bucket from the sump area by taking loose a line. As long as the floats are full on a carb, the carb takes what it needs. Fuel pressure has nothing to do with that once the fuel is in the float bowl. I may be all wrong. I do understand fuel injection is a whole different beast that needs pressure. Thank you for your responses.
  6. Thanks for the reply Tom. So, in essence, one could remove the fuel pump and the engine carbs should still have plenty of fuel and run fine with our high wing configuration?
  7. May be a stupid question, but why do our engines use fuel pumps? Our CT’s are high wing airplanes capable of flowing 150% or better of needed fuel by gravity alone. Both my 172 and 182 had much bigger engines and required more fuel without a fuel pump. So, why do the carbs need a pump? Just curious.
  8. Try reprogramming before you do anything. One failed start or low battery dip seems to throw my flap computer out of whack. Solved by replacing the battery and I keep it on a trickle charger. I have a thread on here about reprogramming. I hope it fixes it. Bob
  9. I should have them. Check out my eBay auction or PM directly. Bob
  10. I bench tested my set up all wired on my desk for 2 hours on solid light and then immediately switched to 2 hours of flash mode. The LED bulb ran warm in solid mode after 2 hours, but this is without any air flowing over it. In flash mode, it did not heat up at all. In both modes, no wiring, flash module, or switch was warm. This is good news as I only see myself using solid light mode for landing at night and flash mode all the time during the day. I rarely fly at night. The switch is the perfect size, but it is all black with no markings. In the picture it had markings. I’m going to try my hand with a Dremel tool and white paint to possibly put a solid line on one end of the switch and three white dots on the other. Might take it to my sign guy to see if he has any ideas.
  11. Hello everyone. I decided to start a new thread as there are several on the LED landing light options. I grabbed a great LED bulb with the help of this forum and its members and I thank you. I wanted to take it a step further and add a flasher circuit for general high visibility flying as seen on other planes. So, I am bench testing this apparatus before I ask for a LOA from Flight Design (Maybe they'll give me one for free if they like this idea...hint, hint). Since the new LED light allows for such a low amp draw (.75 amp) compared to the factory bulb, we can now fly with the landing light on all the time for added safety without straining the electrical system or running down our batteries. I wanted to take it to the next level and add a flasher circuit when desired. So, the pieces are roughly $5 for the flasher, about $2 for the bulb socket, $8 for a new SPDT switch, and $15 for the bulb. As you can see, it is very cost effective and will be simple to wire. The switch I ordered is the same OEM switch used by Flight Design, but with three positions (on-off-on) instead of two (on-off). The flasher module is tiny, and weighs less than an ounce. All wiring can be done right at the switch panel. This would allow a flashing circuit to be seen, and a solid light for landing. I will include a few pics of the pieces and a short video of the unit working on my desk. It is very bright, to the point I was seeing spots. In my opinion, I think this will be great, but I'm ready to be told otherwise. I posted here for your thoughts and opinions. Please don't hold back :) Thanks, Bob F. 20200919_211558_001[2].mp4
  12. Hello- love this thread. Switching to LED makes total sense. I can only run my landing light for a short period, especially with reduced power on landing and idle at taxi before the low voltage alarm is sounding. Using .75 amps with an LED would solve all those problems. So now I’m thinking of taking this to the next level.... I would love to fly all the time with a pulsing landing light that would really make our planes stand out night or day. I found this module for $5 that would pulse the light. I’m thinking a three position landing light switch (off, pulse, on) and a few simple mods behind the switch panel could really add to the safety factor. Here is the module: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/pulsing-strobe-module/196/846/?utm_campaign=Child+-+Organic+Shopping&utm_source=Vehicle+Lighting+>+LED+Strobe+Controllers&utm_medium=LSC-100B&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgtPmiuTc6wIVZOyGCh30xQMVEAQYAiABEgLxiPD_BwE What are your opinions? If we could get an approval letter from FD it would be for the light, switch, and module in one shot.
  13. Beautiful pics. Once at the resort, is there anyway to get around or any place to go?
  14. I had my carbs rebuilt during the 5 year rubber replacement by a well respected Rotax rebuilder and supplier. One of the pins was not properly seated and came out in flight jamming the float and causing the fuel to flood and spill out the carb. I was taking a friend up in his first ride in a small plane no less! The engine started running rough and there was a strong fuel odor coming into the cabin. The GPH flow went up to roughly 7 so I knew I had a leak. The left side engine gauges went yellow if I remember correctly. I kept the rpms up as the shaking was not as bad at higher rpms. Made an immediate call out and turned back to the airport. Came in high and fast before chopping to idle and told my passenger I could glide it in as needed. Landed uneventfully. Moral of the story.... check your pins and if you do have one come out in flight recognize the symptoms and keep the rpms up to minimize the imbalance and shaking.
  15. Thank you Ed. I hope to meet you in person some day. Bob
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