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CTSW Bob

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About CTSW Bob

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    NW Georgia
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  1. I should have them. Check out my eBay auction or PM directly. Bob
  2. I bench tested my set up all wired on my desk for 2 hours on solid light and then immediately switched to 2 hours of flash mode. The LED bulb ran warm in solid mode after 2 hours, but this is without any air flowing over it. In flash mode, it did not heat up at all. In both modes, no wiring, flash module, or switch was warm. This is good news as I only see myself using solid light mode for landing at night and flash mode all the time during the day. I rarely fly at night. The switch is the perfect size, but it is all black with no markings. In the picture it had markings. I’m going to try my hand with a Dremel tool and white paint to possibly put a solid line on one end of the switch and three white dots on the other. Might take it to my sign guy to see if he has any ideas.
  3. Hello everyone. I decided to start a new thread as there are several on the LED landing light options. I grabbed a great LED bulb with the help of this forum and its members and I thank you. I wanted to take it a step further and add a flasher circuit for general high visibility flying as seen on other planes. So, I am bench testing this apparatus before I ask for a LOA from Flight Design (Maybe they'll give me one for free if they like this idea...hint, hint). Since the new LED light allows for such a low amp draw (.75 amp) compared to the factory bulb, we can now fly with the landing light on all the time for added safety without straining the electrical system or running down our batteries. I wanted to take it to the next level and add a flasher circuit when desired. So, the pieces are roughly $5 for the flasher, about $2 for the bulb socket, $8 for a new SPDT switch, and $15 for the bulb. As you can see, it is very cost effective and will be simple to wire. The switch I ordered is the same OEM switch used by Flight Design, but with three positions (on-off-on) instead of two (on-off). The flasher module is tiny, and weighs less than an ounce. All wiring can be done right at the switch panel. This would allow a flashing circuit to be seen, and a solid light for landing. I will include a few pics of the pieces and a short video of the unit working on my desk. It is very bright, to the point I was seeing spots. In my opinion, I think this will be great, but I'm ready to be told otherwise. I posted here for your thoughts and opinions. Please don't hold back :) Thanks, Bob F. 20200919_211558_001[2].mp4
  4. Hello- love this thread. Switching to LED makes total sense. I can only run my landing light for a short period, especially with reduced power on landing and idle at taxi before the low voltage alarm is sounding. Using .75 amps with an LED would solve all those problems. So now I’m thinking of taking this to the next level.... I would love to fly all the time with a pulsing landing light that would really make our planes stand out night or day. I found this module for $5 that would pulse the light. I’m thinking a three position landing light switch (off, pulse, on) and a few simple mods behind the switch panel could really add to the safety factor. Here is the module: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/pulsing-strobe-module/196/846/?utm_campaign=Child+-+Organic+Shopping&utm_source=Vehicle+Lighting+>+LED+Strobe+Controllers&utm_medium=LSC-100B&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgtPmiuTc6wIVZOyGCh30xQMVEAQYAiABEgLxiPD_BwE What are your opinions? If we could get an approval letter from FD it would be for the light, switch, and module in one shot.
  5. Beautiful pics. Once at the resort, is there anyway to get around or any place to go?
  6. I had my carbs rebuilt during the 5 year rubber replacement by a well respected Rotax rebuilder and supplier. One of the pins was not properly seated and came out in flight jamming the float and causing the fuel to flood and spill out the carb. I was taking a friend up in his first ride in a small plane no less! The engine started running rough and there was a strong fuel odor coming into the cabin. The GPH flow went up to roughly 7 so I knew I had a leak. The left side engine gauges went yellow if I remember correctly. I kept the rpms up as the shaking was not as bad at higher rpms. Made an immediate call out and turned back to the airport. Came in high and fast before chopping to idle and told my passenger I could glide it in as needed. Landed uneventfully. Moral of the story.... check your pins and if you do have one come out in flight recognize the symptoms and keep the rpms up to minimize the imbalance and shaking.
  7. Thank you Ed. I hope to meet you in person some day. Bob
  8. I got a bunch too. I ordered extra pads and rotors and had to buy in quantity to get a deal. One motor shop was forever out of stock. So, I ponied up and ordered about 20 sets of rotors and pads. I’m keeping some so I’ll never have to worry about running out. The rest I will sell off on eBay and hopefully make a couple of bucks after shipping, VAT taxes, and selling fees. At least they don’t expire, so ten years from now I’ll probably still have them for sale. Maybe they’ll go up in value.... Bob
  9. Hi Ed - you found my ad on eBay. I will ship it out first thing tomorrow (Friday) morning. To everyone on the forum, I have several extra brand new sets of OEM rotors and pads all factory sealed if needed. Just PM me if needed. Bob
  10. I always use 15 degrees for take off, but it turns out I inadvertently took off with what I later determined to be 27 degrees of flaps. My flap selector once again went goofy when my battery died again. I reprogrammed my -6 setting to get it working again. All my other settings seemed fine. I took off the other day with a quartering headwind of 9 gusting to 16. My 15 degree setting (actual 27) had me jumping off the runway in a startling 400 or so feet and a climb angle that was described by the plane holding short as a kite. I did two take offs and easily climbed well above pattern altitude before the end of the runway. It was a substantial difference. Upon pulling it in to the hangar, I broke out my digital level and determined the 15 degree setting was actually 27. The others were spot on. My question is, has anyone else tried or use higher than 15 degree flap settings for extreme short field performance?
  11. Thanks Kent. Yes, the repacks are expensive, but only if you never use it. I think at resale the majority of the installation cost could be recouped. A 182 is always in high demand, and one with a chute would stand out. I had over 17 offers in a matter of days when I listed my 182. Current repack prices are listed on the BRS website. I know all my passengers think the chute on my CT is tops, and it brings us both piece of mind.
  12. I also second the Cirrus over a 182 at your budget. I would also add that a parachute, to me, makes all the difference. You can add a chute to a 182 for roughly $20k last I checked. Repacks are expensive on certified planes versus the CT line.
  13. I had a 172, then 182, and now a CTSW. Completely different mission the 182 versus CT. Now I fly for fun. Love the CT. Nobody takes the minivan out cruising for fun.... With that said, you also can’t fit more than two people and a bunch of stuff in a CT. I flew my 182 in conditions that would ground me in an LSA, without nary a hiccup. XC machine = 182, fun = CT. That’s my take. Bob
  14. Happy day, happy day! Woo hoo, hot damn, yippy, and all of that! I talked to tech support at Flight Design and went over everything I've stated above. The computer I have is stamped "Servo Controller 5.0" and is different from the info and schematics I have in my maintenance manual and what I've found online. Thanks to the tech, I was able to reprogram my -6 flap setting and all is well! Here is what I learned - If you number the 4 pins for plugging in the harness 1 to 4, with 4 being closest to the digital display, you do the following: 1. All power off 2. Jumper pin # 2 & 4 to enter programming mode 3. Power on 4. Manually move the flaps to the required position with the 3 wires with plugs on the harness as described in the manual. 5. Set the selector knob to that setting - for example: (-6 USA models, -12 European), 0, 15, 30, 40. 6. Trigger pin #3 for a second with the voltage from #2 & #4 (still keep 2 + 4 jumped) 7. Repeat steps #4 - #6 until all positions are programmed. ** I only had to do the -6 degree setting as that was the only problem. You do not have to re-do all the settings unless all of them are not working. 8. Power off the plane. 9. Remove all jumper wires & go fly **This only works with version 5 and may not work with other versions, so call tech support to confirm as they are great and ready to help. Hopefully, I can help another CT'er out here. Bob
  15. Well, not much luck on here. The limit switches test fine. I tried the re-programming route and it will not go into programming mode. I can use the jumper pins to manually control the flaps full up (-6) all the way to full down at 40. So, physically, the plane is capable of it. I can also turn the selector knob switch full up so the display reads "- - -" and it will go -6. But, when I put the selector at -6, and the display shows "-6," they go to 40. Seems like a computer or potentiometer error? Wish I had more to go on for values I should be seeing versus taking an educated guess at an expensive part. Bob
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