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About johnnyjr

  • Rank
    Master Crew Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Livermore, CA
  • Interests
    Boating, flying, winter sports
  • Gender

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369 profile views
  1. great video by an amazing CFI here in the Bay Area. It's worth the 6 mins
  2. I know the feeling, I struggled with the same thing leading up to my checkride this past March. Funny thing is that once the pressure of the CR was gone and I was relaxed and flying as PIC my landings improved quickly. I fall into the rut of bad landing and just tell myself "back to the basics" 1 - fly the IAS, 2 - power for altitude, pitch for speed, 3 (most important to me) transition where I'm looking as the phases of approach change. Biggest thing I caught myself doing was not making that final visual transition to down the runway. I follow The Finer Points of Flying on YouTube, if you search Jason's videos there are a lot of good landing data points to absorb. He is an amazing CFI!
  3. You got your groove back, that's all that matters!!!
  4. I've done a lot of research on charging/cycling batteries (spent 7 years in the marine industry working on 12 volt systems). Everyone has their pref and not all chargers are created equal. Best case for a battery is to be brought up to a full charge and then held in a float state (proper voltage, low amperage), most maintainers/charges do this today. If you do want to use a timer, it's best to insure you allow enough time for the battery to reach full change and stay in a float mode for a while. I'd up the cycle time to 6 hours just to make sure it goes through a full charge cycle. My 2 cents YMMV.....
  5. Forgetting to connect the landing light, know this way too well..... I replaced my battery about a year ago (PC310 as well), I keep the plane outside with full Bruce covers (Wings, cowl, cockpit and tail), I have a locked job box for tools, oils, ladder, etc.. chained to my tie down point and installed a solar battery charger (Battery Tender brand $40 on Amazon). Keeps the battery topped off, have a float/maint mode and would expect that to increase the battery life. Background, I'm an avid boater and figured out quickly that a well maintained battery will last a very long time. I installed and have ran a 440 ah battery bank in the boat running off a Xantrex multi bank changer for the past 14 years. the first battery bank lasted be well over 10 year with harsh use (deep discharges during the weekends). I credit a good charger/maintainer with the prolonged life (warranty was 5 years, most saw 7 years, I got an extra 3 out of them) The moral is, keep them maintained and extend your return on the investment.
  6. The units I bought are still on ebay under $50 a pair shipped. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Controller-Cradle-for-Bose-A20-Headset/264848363414?hash=item3daa314f96:g:AKwAAOSwwD5dVcwb I have no affiliation with the seller, but I do like the product and it's worked very well.
  7. Trip, before I bought mine last year I had the same thing happen. Not sure what gives, maybe it's the lack of time to scan, who knows. I was frustrated and was only getting good info from a couple brokers. I ended up purchasing a CTSW from my local airport and was able to sit down and flip the logs in person. I feel your frustration!
  8. Jim would you mind sharing some information on the FD heated pitot you mentioned above. I'm toying with the idea of an IFR move on my SW and have been searching for heated pitot options. TIA
  9. I go between grassstripflyboy’s method/location and a ram mount attached to the side of the mushroom like below. Both are out of the way. I find the mushroom mounting makes it easier to reach when you need to annotate, pan, zoom, etc in ForeFlight.
  10. Spent a minute pondering this exact thought. My guess, from the crease on top of the fuselage, is that in impact “popped” it off.
  11. Removed this from my CTSW, In the SF Bay Area I will not see temps cold enough to need this on the radiator and I know folks in the colder climates can benefit from it way more that I can so I removed it to deep clean the engine and decided to leave it off and offer it up to someone. I have no history of who or where this came from, I can tell you is how it is installed and that it works (I did try it on a cold California day just for fun). Open to any offers, will ship in the US only, unless you can figure out a painless way for me to just drop it off at a shipper.
  12. Tom to make sure I understand correctly. Are you saying the tail light and both red/green position lights SHOULD blink?
  13. Quick question I'm sure I could find the answer too in the FARs, but thought I'd ask. Would these lights with the red/green and rear white position light eliminate the need to the white tail position like? My tail light is flickering and so is my green nav, would like to kill 2 birds with 1 stone if possible.
  14. The pics don’t look off. What I can say if the cable that I found not attached was located under the engine mount near the front wheel bracket. There should be a few jumpers that go engine, frame then frame to next point until it gets to the battery and ground block inside.
  15. I recently had a ground issue and it was the wiring that jumped the engine block to the engine mount. I would make 100% sure that the FWF grounds are on and solid, if they look dirty it's def worth a clean up, if not for the present issue to help prevent future issues. The reason I brought this up is that all was functioning fine on the ground and while the plane was still cool. After 45 mins or so of cruise flight once everything heat soaked I would have random issues with gauges, and not being able to shut the engine off with the key. This was all because I have a un-attached ground wire.
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