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About johnnyjr

  • Rank
    Master Crew Member

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  • Location
    Livermore, CA
  • Interests
    Boating, flying, winter sports
  • Gender

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  1. I had the same issue, IACRA website happened to be down the day before and of my check ride so we just printed a manual version. I would let your DPE know that it's not there and request to submit the manual form instead. Check ride was back in May, so this is a recent experience.
  2. Johnny have you tried the Dynon D110/120 forums? I've found it to be a great resource for this type of stuff. Usually get something back in a day or 2.
  3. Bill, I have the same issue. Since Arian stated the damage is not structural I opt'd to remove the wings and seal the tanks. Do you mind letting us in on what the out skin repair entailed? Did they cut out the skin and replace a section or sand down the area and add fiber and resin back or ???? TIA!
  4. I've done some searching but have turned up nothing that's clear. I have a 2005 CT, today I was flying around and began to smell fuel so I went back to the airport. After exiting the runway I was at 2K RPM waiting for my taxi instructions and noticed she was running rough. Completed the shut down stepped out and found fuel dripping from below the cowl. I removed the cowl and traced the fuel back to the airbox, then the vent line to 1 of the carbs. The carb was venting fuel even after shutting down, it was not until I shut the fuel valve that the leak slowed then stopped. Anyone able to shed light on this for me?
  5. CBO for the flying ELSA, can you provide some info? TTAE, rubber replacement date, BRS repack or expiration date, and any info on the damage history?
  6. I've been traveling and have not had a chance to circle back on this thread to comment. My CT is the one that the first picture above came from. My mechanic and I spent a lot of time with FDUSA and other composite experts working on a solution that didn't involve removing and replacing the patch. We finally settled on using the Caswell tank sealer as suggested by Arian at FDUSA. We started by a full inch by inch inspection of both wing tanks and both cavities within each tank. For this we used a good quality borescope (the key to the entire process is the borescope) and inserted addition lights into the tanks to get enough light for a clean picture. once we found the patches we attempted to knock the red epoxy lose to insure it was secure and verify we did not have to work it down before sealing. Once this was all confirmed we moved on to tank prep, for this we followed the Caswell instructions, simple process. When it came to sealing the challenge was how we would direct the sealer to the patch, for this we strung the wings up from the hanger rafters and got to the level point that would allow the sealer to settle over the patch. Now for the fun part, we rigged up a disposing rig that was made of a large syringe with a tube on the end and a spring steel rod (very thin rod and flexible). We setup the borescope camera to get an overhead view of the patch and used the rod with the tube taped to it to move the end of the tube over the patch. After mixing the Caswell we graciously injected the Caswell over the patch making sure all the red "mountains" had complete coverage and at least an inch surrounding the entire patch (we ended up with about 2 inches of coverage around the patch once the sealer settled. During inspection we found a few pin holes on the leading edge so we covered the entire leading edge as well to insure we didn't have to get back in there at a later date. Very important part of the process is to bring the tanks and Caswell up to 70* F before starting application, as well as maintaining that temp (or slightly lower, see Caswell instructions for temp and cure times) to insure a proper cure of the material. I've had the plane back for 3 weeks and have kept the tanks topped off. So far, no leaks, but I wouldn't expect any right away. Only time till tell if this process is successful. We also sampled a drop of the Caswell near the sight tube port so that we could attempt to remove it post cure, this would give us confidence that the bond was strong, and yes, it was rock hard and would not detach from each other. Good luck to you all, this was not as difficult as it sounded. Aside for the investigation the entire process took less than 8 hours including wing removal and install. Remember the success is all in the prep, make sure it is clean.
  7. I second Tom’s suggestion. The left side behind the panel tapers and the airspeed is a deeper gauge. panel will look great once complete!
  8. Mine is tied down outside. I purchased a full set of covers from Bruce and they keep the sun, rain and dirt off really well. Lubricating everything is always good regardless of in or outdoor tie down.
  9. Spoke with Barry today, local options have slimmed down to just 2, 1 is busy with a corp jet job till August and the other has a failure rate I'm not interested in testing. Barry sounds like a great guy and remembered you by name as soon as I mentioned the CT. Planning to schedule for late March, sounds like a trip to SoCal is closer than I thought.
  10. GrassStripFlyBoy, I noticed your numbers are 9" tall, I was told when ordering mine that unless we are E-LSA our numbers needed to be 12" tall. Not sure if you're E-LSA or not, so thought I'd mention it. I might be incorrect, but thought I would share this info with you as it may change your order. For reference - https://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?SID=4ac4e1675349745702f523659674bbba&mc=true&node=se14.1.45_129
  11. regarding you iPad location, sounds like we both went through the same process and came to the same conclusion. That location works great, easy to access and within line of site with your head out the window. Fuel placard looks great, I would be interested in one once you get your setup ready, count me in.
  12. Well done Robert, looks great. Now it’s time to enjoy the new bird, keep us posted. Fly safe!
  13. You're welcome Robert, glad you were able to figure it out in the end. Happy flying and enjoy the new setup!
  14. Assuming your AP is wired like the TT Digiflight II you'll need to find pin 17, the primary serial input
  15. The wire Tom is talking about from the 696 is now used to send data to the GDL39, the GDL then passes that data to any other item via it's orange wire. Also what does the SL30 send to the D100 that shows you it's working? Just curios as I didnt know there was data flow, unless you mean the HSI. If it's the HSI that is working with the SL30 that's great, but not it's not because of this communication wire we are discussing. My suggestion is to do the following: Instead of passing the signal through the HS34 to TT and SL30, try tying the SL30, TT and HS34 to the orange wire from the GDL39. , you will need to switch the output in the GPS from NMEA Out to NMEA & VHF Out. Try that and report back. I've read on various forums about this setup and folks have ran this a couple ways, the method above seemed to return the desired result.
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