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GrassStripFlyBoy

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About GrassStripFlyBoy

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  • Location
    Croswell Michigan
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    Male

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  1. Congrats Dan, looks nice. This is the first I noticed you have two photo windows, I have one on pilots side. No smaller window vents? Not that you'll need them this time of year, but by next summer you'll want to figure out a small scoop to direct more air in the cabin.
  2. I've noticed the tape around edges is becoming a maintenance item, that's minor, easy enough to remove and replace a section as needed. The general install is kind of crinkled, acceptable, just me being super neat freak. The noise reduction is a bonus, but don't know how much. I'm thinking as it ages I'd choose paint over replacement of blanket. Realistically, maintaining it is probably the route I'll go.
  3. Typically use 30 degrees for everything grass and/or shorter paved rwy's, like Andy states there is minimal difference with 40 degrees, but when really working to milk every little bit 40 degrees does help. I start to apply back pressure almost immediately on roll, if solo and light I'll initiate a pitch for t/o and let it fly when it wants, then transition to forward pressure to control airspeed building at healthy / safe rate, these birds climb so well there are just a few seconds of the danger zone if engine issue develops, just be ready to pitch forward pronto in that regard. Bleed flaps rather quick to 15 (guessing 45-50N, things happen quick here), then perhaps around 75 hit zero, then -6 around 500 AGL as climbing out, these are not rigid numbers with a set routine, just respect the white arc on 30 degrees and fly the plane from there. (And I don't bust the 15 & 0 Vfe speeds either) I peek at airspeed steam gauge and have eye's out window more than in panel, your ears and eyes tell you a lot when you know the bird. You can get some crazy climb rates if holding it in the white arc with lots of flaps, but once you've got 50' who cares, give me speed. So here's the morning take off. This was not the normal process but lots of fun. 40 degrees, set parking brake, full power, when static RPM max ~ 5k dump the brakes, pitched for take off when it felt close and lifted off as steam gage started to wake up, probably 250 ft run. There is culvert tube under runway with ditch to sides (tree / brush line at 16 second mark in video), that ditch is 450' from end of runway and I'm flying maybe 30' AGL by that ditch. The second video on runway is staged at that 450' mark. Other observations is my EFIS airspeed lags the steam gage, can't read super detail in these clips, but the red ASI number turns white / 39 and the steam gage is showing 46k., as rate of change is rapidly occurring here. I'm at 50' tree top levels perhaps around the 700' mark. The wires / road is ~ 2500' from my take off location, was doing about 80k and 250 AGL at that point. Now the words of caution, this is my home strip, I've been working towards this and learning how the CT feels / sounds / behaves / and am flying in my comfort zone. Take different weather, loading, and whatever other wildcards that come into play - and proceed with care. Take Off.mp4 Take off 2.mp4
  4. I'm fairly certain when I was at Airtime a year ago they had another SW being worked on, and the firewall had the blanket removed and had been painted. It may have been an LS, but fairly sure it was an SW. I've thought when hose change time comes up, I'd ditch the blanked too and do a paint job. Would be good to get the scoop on this, not a priority for me at the moment, but three years from now it will be.
  5. That location works well for a mini Ipad, and if you have decent vision as it does make focal distance a short range. I'd not hang a larger screen than a mini up there. It does not bother me with view as I'm shorter and see under it, taller guys probably would object. To answer the question on mount, all standard RAM hardware, using a yoke mount clamped to cross tube. Repurposed the yoke mount from an old Lowrance airmap device. Full size Ipad, I'd be going to the side of the panel, essentially same location for you but get it off the door glass.
  6. Yes - a little blip of power at the very final approach. I was essentially power off the whole final, it seems with dense air, lower loading, and my 1850ish RPM at idle this bird does not sink fast even at 40 degrees. There may have been a small element of wind shear at play too, combine a little gusty, and those trees so close to runway mix things up. I saw speed declining and felt things settling a tick much, it's nice to have a year under my belt and situation awareness building - that was sort of an automatic response, my butt and throttle hand must be learning to cross talk without a lot of brain working. I don't really need to push landing this slow & short, but enjoy having the skill set, makes the 15 and 30 degree at 50k an easy game. The grass had dew on it, when I grabbed the brakes it was an instant lock up, so let down and did some pumping / slide job to the end. 30 degrees is my default. 40 degree take off was an elevator ride, you'll have to wait for the final video to see that.
  7. Have been enjoying the performance gains with cooler temps setting in. Went out this morning for some local grass strip hopping around. Conditions are mid 40's and wind out of north ~ 10k. Staged a camera on the side of runway and stuck GoPro in the cabin, plan to make a video of the event but upon return home noticed several clips are corrupt with low battery in GoPro - bummer. Still can make a decent production from what is good, just sad I didn't get the other airports. The landing I shot at home was crosswind, and stuck it about 400' landing on the numbers. Here's a little clip of my first landing of the day, and no - those are not control towers, those are deer binds for us who eat "organic" meat... Shot up to county airport with runway into wind, nailed 300' landings with headwind. That got me thinking my pal with a large yard "runway", not charted but about 1200' strip, would be comfortable. Went to his place and was the shortest of the day facing directly into wind. Obviously solo here, 18-20 gallons on board, 40 degrees of flaps, and flying ~ 50k approach to tree tops, then low 40's to touch down. Will try to get the video out within a few days, need to start making more of these to share the joy. Short Landing Clip.mp4
  8. As pointed as this trail has been at times, I can honestly share I've enjoyed the dialog, and what is largely restraint and keeping the debate on topic and not becoming nasty. I see both perspectives. Considering we're talking about $60k - $180k machines here we've invested in, with fixed costs perhaps running $5k per year, and variable costs on top of that, I view money on maintenance as an almost non-event. Point being some of my recent posts, tire and battery replacements, could I have milked them further, sure thing, but why - grand scheme these are nothing. So, the point about on condition and pushing oil changes, not for me, and guess who will be placing qty 8 plugs on next order just because. My take here is if money is a factor in what maintenance is being performed, or rather not performed, that's both sad and shortsighted. On topic of maintenance induced failure. Sure, there is risk in everything around the game we choose to participate in. I'll take the risk of actively "doing something" as the fleet history, manufacture, and insightful mechanics guide us, compared to "not doing something" because it's fine today and/or just maybe doing the act will lead to some unintentional bad outcome? The wording Preventative Maintenance is really a misnomer in aviation, a vast majority of what we do is based on Predictive Maintenance, being that a studied / known / proven time in service statistically established a safe line in the sand based from point of failures. This is why aviation enjoys the safety record we do, is the line perhaps too safe, probably - but that's by design. Can you push over the line, yes. For how long, we'll that starts the guessing game. Around all the chatter of what the manual says, verse what people do, I'll follow BEST PRACTICES every day. Don't care if that's the Rotax Line Manual, FD Manual, the forum, or otherwise. Add up both the FD manual and the Rotex manual, that's a lot of pages, to say it's always black and white I'll quote a fella I saw on TV last night - "C'mon Man!" Take something as simple as tire pressure. Sure I could set it exactly at the PSI manual states, but history tells us a bit more pressure is wise, or rather low tire pressure is really bad. And logic tells me that tires loose pressure over time, and I don't feel like topping them off every other week, so hey - keep them on the safe side. That's one small example of a much more complex list.
  9. Something to consider is buying some quality seat foam and stuffing under the bottom and back. This will give you the benefit of improved comfort on long hauls, as well as buy you some adjustment forward. The seat covers are fairly easy to remove, cut the foam to size and simply place it between existing foam and cover.
  10. On the topic of decals being bad, I thought when I saw this add previously this year it was tied down outside, that can be rough on these birds depending how long outside. Does the prop show any discoloration / hairline cracks in finish? Do the top of wings show any "sink marks" where composite foam core deteriorates?
  11. Without laying eyes on it besides the pictures online and this latest news, I think the counter offer price is close to the mark - and clearly the items driving concern would add up. The autopilot can be purchased new for $2100 + (I say plus because I think the torque enhancer is adder?), I have two sets of servos and a spare head - might be willing to make a deal if it's a servo. The trinket things like battery / tires / graphics / cleaning seam like noise here to me. I think the timing of chute repack, upcoming hose change, and those original Dynons are approaching end of life and people often encounter issues, make the counter offer price the mark. But given how low the hours are - dang, that is appealing too... So perhaps a meeting in the middle is still a good call. You have my number, feel free to text pictures or call if you want further details.
  12. On the topic of retorquing plugs, this came up during the 16hr class with Rainbow, as well as topic around someone using CHT leads on plugs with questions around placement as well as how do these impact gaskets situation. Regarding using plugs again, it was stated a study (who and when - don't recall) was performed on torques and removal forces. In this study it was observed that the plug is clocked further on each reinstall, and if proper torque is applied it is acceptable to reuse them ~ 3 times before the dynamic of crush / deformation / resulting anti-torque becomes less predictable. That seems like a fair idea to me. Thankfully plugs are cheap and this is an easy decision coupled with my flying ~ 100 hours year, just change them with compression check being time to swap anyways. Doubt many people are using CHT probes under plugs, that answer was retain the spark plug gasket and slip these on, torque the same as normal.
  13. This may be a very long shot, and don't know what brand radio you're dealing with. I recall seeing something somewhere around antenna connector from coax in plane not being mounted internal to tray, but on the back side, and this lead to reduced engagement in the radio connector through the tray and then into the connector. Maybe re-rack the radio and make sure all is connected up tight with the coax, ditto on the antenna end. I had a static / poor signal situation this year, cleaned antenna grounds which were not all that bad by eye, and became crystal clear.
  14. $179.57 with free shipping, + state tax https://www.ebay.com/itm/Odyssey-Battery-PC310-Extreme-Powersport-Battery/184391526673?epid=1711848643&hash=item2aee976911:g:XHwAAOSw3jZfK34X And the build dates on these are fresh stock.
  15. % is relative, my old battery was registering ~ 12.8V when I'd turn on master, and would start within a second or two, I'd hold the key a tiny bit to ensure it would not stop before engine was ready to disengage the starter. My new battery registered 12.9V, went out this weekend and the engine was running in a fraction of a second, just touch the key and let go just as quick. I'd not push battery life for this very reason, nice to tap that starter and have it running - think about life of starter relative to this, kickback, or being away from home and having a no go event.
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