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About TheFrisco

  • Rank
    Master Crew Member

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  • Location
    Maui, HI
  • Interests
    Flying my quads FPV
    Play hockey, go snowboarding
    And as of lately ... Flying planes :-)
  • Gender

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  1. Anybody seen that turning on landing light causes serious humm on radio? And yes it's the LED version. Arian says there is a capacitor somewhere on the hot side of firewall but haven't found that one. Appreciate your ideas. Thanks, Robert
  2. Can you please send me a picture or drawing where yours was binding? Thanks!
  3. Well those for sure were super tight, so I did as you suggested and its better, still not great but for sure better. THANKS FOR THE TIP!!!
  4. FYI I took @Eric awesome checklist and reformatted it a little bit, just so there is 1 columns and numbering, found it easier to read that way. Still for the D100/D120 Dynon series, hope it helps. Robert ctls_checklists v02082020.ckl
  5. Great to know, thanks will ask my A&P at annual
  6. Had a bit of a rainstorm yesterday and came down to the plane today with a huge puddle on the right side, behind the seat, underneath the netting. Any insights how to prevent that? Did I mention that I had the spare handheld radio laying there which now seems dead 😭
  7. That makes me a little depressed, was totally counting on helping this some but from your response I guess I am stuck with the "sedan feel", maybe more tractor than sedan to be honest 🙄
  8. Thanks @Tom Baker, as always active and helpful here! Here is the bummer, taking the springs out (=lighter springs) did help but FD says that makes it experimental. Well I guess this annual in April the wings have to come off and I will make sure all turn buckles etc get lubed well, hope that helps. Any pics of the new spring system? Does the spring tension get less when somewhat extended? Robert
  9. I raised this here before that my AILERON STICK FEELS REALLY STIFF. I got a bunch of great info, especially learning that my 2008 CTLS is one of the earlier versions with different aileron centering springs. Since then, I have communicated with FD USA and got this back ... "Are you sure it's the cable tension and not some binding somewhere in the system? There is a procedure to lighten the spring loading. There is no possibility of changing the springs, unless you change the plane to experimental.1. Center the aileron trim.2. Start on the left side of the plane. Move the control stick all the way to the right. Have a helper hold it, or use a rope. This should relieve tension on the left side aileron spring.3. Loosen the two nuts on the lower cable clamp. Adjust cable tension is that there is no slack in the cables, but no real tension on the spring. Move the clamp down and tighten the nuts, while holding the same tension on the cable.4. Repeat 2 - 4 for the right side.This will give you the least amount of spring tension possible without having the system go slack." So I went and did some troubleshooting, took off the spring and the ailerons were way less stiff. Obviously no springs is not the answer but I have 2 questions ... Can any of you please send me a picture of the later spring setup in your plane? Any used the above procedure and it lightened the spring load? I am especially curious about the above procedure because from my current setup this would mean the springs are more extended with the stick in neutral compared to now. Do springs have less tension when extended a little bit? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences with this, Robert PS: For your enjoyment and off topic, here are 2 pictures with new decals, and yes we named our plane ... think Chipmunks, "Alvin" is still in the making btw 😉
  10. What I posted is for a CTLS with Dynon D100/120
  11. Here a quick list of steps ... Download PC software from here ... https://www.dynonavionics.com/d10-d100-series-software-updated.php Get DB9 serial to USB cable here ... https://www.dynonavionics.com/usb-serial-converter.php or https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/efisd10f.php Open cover underneath parking break (4 screws) and find serial plugs Connect to PC Windows Load attached file To use them when on ground, press the left most button on D100 and screen comes alive, then press 'Lists' and VOILA Hope this helps, just did that and LOVE IT Credit for lists goes to @Eric btw ctls_checklists.ckl
  12. I loaded a checklist I got from @Eric into my D100/120 and LOVE IT. Want it?
  13. TEST FLIGHT SUCCESSFUL Flew around the island today, so much fun, and all held up. Here are a few impressions. Mahalo
  14. IT'S DONE ... TEST FLIGHT HOPEFULLY TOMORROW Many of you have been patiently supporting me in my conversion from the Garmin 496 to the 696 and today I got it finally all to work. WHY did I even do this? Well as you can see the HS34 was INOP when I got the plane so I didn't even get a stall warning, leave alone engine alarms so that was a MUST FIX. Turns out that was a bad serial cable between the HS34 and the SL30, bad idea to take out the HS34 to fix it IMHO. So while I was at it doing that, I thought why not get a screen that I can read and the 696 was an affordable option. I even sold my 496 on Facebook Marketplace 🙂 HOW did I go about this? After troubleshooting the HS34/SL30 serial connection, I moved the HS34 and the cabin/carb heat ... Cutting the new HS34 hole on top of the D100 was a real PIA. Then lots and lots of work on the bracket because the SL30/GLT327 needed to slide to the bottom, new holes and a new bracket for the 696. Then new wiring for the GDL39 3D which I got off eBay. I followed the attached diagram from http://www.scflier.com/topic/450-garmin-gdl-39-3d-ads-b-in-receiver-scflier-participation-raffle/. Lastly, don't forget to setup the 696 with the correct interface settings and check all your baud rates. I had the wrong baud rate for my HS34 and needed to go into the D100 setup for the HSI to fix that. One special tip, if your 696 battery is dead, make sure to check out this video ... it brought my battery back to life Hope this helps someone else, so far so great. Love how all is connected now, and how I can easily just push frequencies from my 696 into my SL30 instead of twisting dials ... Almost like a G1000 LOL. Thanks a lot to many of you who helped along the way, special mention goes to @Eric, @Tip, @Tom Baker and @okent Now I just hope the gusts in the 30s calm down for a flight tomorrow! Aloha from Maui, Robert aka TheFrisco
  15. UPDATE & CLOSURE After some tracing attempts and various tests, I decided to test what happens when I direct wire the HS34 to the PM3000 and IT WORKED. So I gave up on finding the bad connection in my system, took out the old wired pins on both and ran a new wire with HS34 pin 25 (audio out) to the PM3000 pin 17 (audio in). Oh and yes, I did try to route the wire as best as possible behind the panel but it is a bit amateurish wrapped in duck tape for protection with a big label on it explaining what I did 😉 Hope this helps the next person, Robert aka TheFrisco
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