Runtoeat

I would suggest that the following affects flutter when approaching Vne (not official, just personal observations): -Vibration inputs from engine and/or propellor wash across the tail -Tightness (i.e., absence of play) of control rods and linkages and hinges of the elavator and elevator trim. -Stiffness of structure which the trim hinges are fastened to. -Whether the elevator trim is "full span" or "partial span".

About $140K USD. This was about the cost for a CTLS with dual Dynon, autopilot, tundra tire, glide slope/localizer with Garmin 496/327/SL30, lumbar seats in 2008. Not sure how the VAT and export paperwork add to this?

Believe me Roger. Whatever was used for tape defied all solvents and rubbing compounds. I tried the hard core stuff because I didn't want to scrape it. I ended up slightly softening it enough that I could remove with a razor blade. The Bolus leave very little residue that can be easily removed.

Played with this a little for Super Sport (CTSW fuselage). Interesting. Guess the "slipper clutch" is optional on 912ULS engine in this package.

We've arrived at my power off slowly descending tight turn from downwind to over the numbers and touch down with full flaps.

If Bolus tape residue, this is easy to remove as Roger says. Personally, I use rubbing alcohol for this and to remove exhaust gas stains on the bottom of the fuselage. My 2006 CTSW had been taped at the joint of the ventral fin and fuselage with a tape that left residue that was crusty and could not be just wiped off. I used Goof Off, MEK, alcohol, acetone. Nothing seem to dissolve the residue. Finally, after soaking overnite with acetone, I was able to scrape off the residue with a razor blade, being careful not to scratch the surface.

I'd recommend that this joint be designed with a "marman clamp". Both the muffler flange and the exhaust pipe have flared ends and the clamp which is used is a "U" section which compresses both flares together when it is tightened. This was developed for a long lasting and almost leak free joint for gas flow systems. Very secure but if breaks are occurring at low hours, perhaps even this won't be foolproof. That exhaust pipe must really be dancing around when looked at with modal analysis. https://www.ebay.com/i/262837735762?chn=ps

A good cautionary point. Can't be repeated enough.

Hi Tip. Hadn't heard of your type of breakage. Weird that this would break @ 50 hrs. Maybe it had a crack when bent and formed? Do you have a clamped or welded pipe?

Tom, after reading your comments I went back and took a closer look at the pictures. I now see a clamp and it appears that there is maybe a part of the outlet pipe that is still clamped to the muffler. Hard to tell but it appears that the outlet pipe has fractured a few inches out from the muffler and the end of it has fallen out and away from the CT? This is a much different failure mode than anything I've seen. I have no experience with CTLSi other than the one which my friend owns. To my knowledge he has had no failures like this but he will want to check his outlet pipe after seeing this forum entry!

I have seen the face of the end of the muffler in the area of outlet pipe develop cracks which would have resulted in losing the pipe if this had not been detected and repaired. The outlet pipe is a long arm which develops large forces where it connects to the muffler when it responds to engine vibrations. Some CT's have a reinforcing brace welded between the outlet pipe and muffler face to dampen vibration of the outlet pipe and prevent the pipe from flexing the face. Some CT's have the outlet positioned away from the center area of the end further towards the outside where the stiffer area resists cracking caused by flex. You are not the only one to experience this. If I'm not mistaken, I believe that there is at least one thread on this forum where this is discussed.

From the inside. Roger....are the pins a part that can be purchased?

Haven't used Aeroshell and wasn't aware this comes in liter bottles. Thanks for educating me. I'm still using Mobil 4T and Amsoil motorsycle synthetic in quarts.

Andy, you meant that you added "3 full quarts" of oil, not "3 full liters" as your post states. Correct? Not sure why you overfilled? I've used your procedure for my oil changes with no problems. I do try to "sneak up" on the top of the dipstick flat when filling though. Add some oil from the 3rd quart, burp, repeat until at the top of the flat. Ed's idea to use a turkey baster is a good one. I would do a run up after I think the level is correct to make sure.

Thanks for the picture Roger. Good to see some faces of those who frequent this forum.