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About Runtoeat

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    Master Star Fighter

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  • Location
    Belleville, Michigan
  • Interests
    Target shooting, running, flying and tinkering (i.e., trying to screw up things that are working OK)
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  1. Thanks for posting. Our CT's are great little travel machines.
  2. Just had the same issue as other members have reported earlier in this thread. Yesterday, while cruising at 5300 rpm in my 2006 CTSW, I noticed I was having intermittent 50 rpm tachometer drops. Engine would run fine and then I could feel the plane slow slightly and see a 50 rpm dropout and then the rpms would come back to normal. Although I was thinking it might be a fuel issue I figured it wouldn't hurt to see if it might be electrical so I did a mag check while in this flight. First went to switch position #2 and had 50 rpm drop. Then back to "1&2" position and back to normal rpm. Then went to switch #1 and got 50 rpm drop then back to "1&2" and back to normal rpm. I did this twice with just the typical 50 rpm drop at each mag. Later in the flight, after continuing to experience the intermittent 50 rpm drops, I decided to do the mag test a third time. Went to position #2 and got the 50 rpm drop. Back to "1&2" and then went to switch position #1. BANG! Complete engine shut down! I quickly went back to position #2 and much to my extreme relief the engine came back to life because the prop was spinning at my speed of 115kts. Figured I wouldn't be stupid enough to try that again so I limped back to my airport hoping my one good mag would remain working properly. Today my mechanic and I did a thorough "P" lead wire and ignition switch "wiggle test" and poked around with ohm meter to see if anything unusual. No problems found in wiring or in the switch. Hoping it would fix my problem, we installed the set of soft start modules I bought 5 years ago that have been kept on the shelf. An engine run up and subsequent test flight after installing the new modules indicates that they fixed this problem. And, not only fixed the problem but the plane does have a better response to throttle and seems to have more power than usual. The important thing to know here is that our modules do not only have the well known and documented "fail to start" problem. They also have a "high rpm failure to run" problem. It is now documented by owners on our forum that modules have failed to work at high rpm. Owners who have early CT's, especially 2006 or 2007 years, with original factory modules might expect to have ignition problems eventually. Hopefully, when failure occurs, only one module will fail and one will remain working long enough to allow them to get back home. Seems I read that the military replaces the modules every 700 hours on the rotax engines used in drone aircraft.
  3. Hi Tom.  I am having mag "drop out" problems same as CDARZA and OKent mentioned on the forum.  Cruising at 5,200 rpm and loosing about 50 rpms intermittently.  Did mag check while flying and first two checks engine showed 50 rpm drop but ran fine on both #1 and #2 mags.  On a third mag check, engine quit while on #1 position (which is first switch "click" from "off") setting.  Sounds like the same problem as CDARZA and Okent had.  Roger Lee indicated he has not seen a module fail during high rpm running.  He indicate modules only fail in the start mode.  These two guys say their modules failed during mag run up at 3,000 plus rpms.  Okent said new "soft start" modules solved his problem. CDARZA didn't say if he solved his problem with new modules.  Have you seen modules that fail at high rpms?  I have a set of new soft start modules that I can install but hate to do this if not needed.  Was going to check on "P" leads and was thinking a bad ignition switch or bad "P" lead wire might be allowing grounding of the #1 module before reading about this high rpm module failure. My CTSW is 2006 with original modules.  Have you used Carmo in Netherlands to recondition modules?  Thanks.

    Dick Harrison ("runtoeat")

  4. Hi CDARZA.  I am having mag "drop out" problems same as you mentioned on the forum.  Cruising at 5,200 rpm and loosing about 50 rpms intermittently.  Did mag check while flying and first two checks engine ran fine on both #1 and #2 mags.  Third mag check engine quit wile on #1 (which is first switch "click" from "off") setting.  Sounds like your same problem?  Did you end up sending your mags to Carmo in the Netherlands to have them reconditioned?  You didn't indicate if you did this and if this solved your "non-working" mag problem.  Thanks

    Dick Harrison (runtoeat"

    1. cdarza


      Good day.  Yikes, yup that sounds very similar to my problem.    I did send both modules to Carmo and received them back within about a week.   So far all good however, i've only flown about 6 hours on the overhauled modules as in my country, we have been on lock down since April.  :(   I did notice though that the engine does start slightly better, although not as smooth as i would like.   First start is a bit of a violent start.    Once warm and restart its all good.    As i mentioned in my previous post,  the engine quit on the one mag but when i tried it again about a half hour later i couldnt replicate the engine shut down.     Thus,  i THINK it was the module but cant be 100% sure about that.    I asked Carmo for a report if they found any defect but they never responded....  They just said: "Today we have repaired /overhauled your Rotax 912ULS CDI units.  They function perfect again and are ready for shipment"

      Note I also sent both units even though only 1 'acted up'  Just for overhaul and peace of mind in case the other one had issues.  





    2. Runtoeat


      Thanks for you reply.  Good to know Carmo is a reputable company to deal with.  My module would act OK and then just shut down intermittently.  You did the right thing by having yours rebuilt. 


    3. cdarza


      This only happened once and i wasnt willing to wait for it to happen again haha.   Im close to 1000hrs so i figured it was a good time to get the modules 'overhauled'.   I am still considering replacing with completely new ones from Rotax once i get over the price :)      One note re Carmo....   they 'overhauled' the inside but it was another price to include the wires and the sheath. I didnt realize this until i got the units back and the sheath still looked its old self.  I thought this would have been a cheap replacement for them to have included.  

  5. Haven't been on our forum lately. Thanks for answering Poco's question Darrell. The Arcolectric DPDT switch is the same design as the one used by the FD factory.
  6. On LS, there is a rubber pad that can move out of place. Check the area where the gear leg meets the fuselage. I would agree with Andy about noises in a SW. I hear lots of noises coming from gear legs and Matco brakes (rattling) when taxiing my SW, especially if I don't have my headset on.
  7. Just helped a friend fix his CTLS that lost power after takeoff. The carb bowls had corrosion in two of the corners where it did look like someone snubbed out a cigarette. I popped off a 1/8" flake of tannish yellow "scab" from one of the corroded spots. A main jet blocker for sure. After clean-out, all is back to normal, until the corrosion flares up again.
  8. I may not be correct on needing a heated pitot or the 912ULS needing to be "certified". My comments about the pitot were based on a friend outfitting his Piper Colt for certified IFR flight and he stopped when the FAA examiner told him he had to have heated pitot. My CTSW and the CTLS POH says flight for VFR only and this section also prohibits flight into IMC. A message sent to me from another forum member says new Operating Limitations provided when he has converted aircraft from SLSA ot ESLA don't state VFR only. I guess whether or not one can fly IFR in ELSA depends on what the FAA FSDO writes into the new ELSA Operating Limitations section.
  9. I would think the F2 might be best for you. The 912 engine isn't a certified engine and the pitot is not heated on CTLS which the information I have says these are needed for IFR flying. F2 should have these.
  10. Agree with Matt. I've burned MoGas since 2010 exclusively. No corrosion in bowls and no balance needed on carbs for last 4 years. As mentioned in previous post, I put 2 oz. Marvel Mystery Oil in 5 gallon cans. Not sure if this has helped me stay trouble free but my mechanic who maintains all kinds of engines says it does help the fuel absorb any water that might be in the fuel. I fly often enough that my fuel doesn't sit too long and keep my CT in a unheated hangar with engine heated. These things make a difference on how much condensation is introduced into the carbs.
  11. Have you tried calling iFly and talk to one of the tech people? They're normally available and will call back if not. The techs have helped me configure my iFly 740 even while flying using my Bose with cell phone hook-up. Some of the tech's are more knowledgeable than others but I would think connecting to a Dynon might be something they have experience answering questions about. There is also a good Q&A section on the iFly website.
  12. Thanks for the details Tom. I recently spoke to Roger Lee as John Horn also did. Roger changes the location of the fuel filter to the same location as you do when he services the filter. Interestingly, he directed me to SB-ASTM-CTSW-06 which shows this filter location as an "alternate" location which can be used. The filter location downstream from the shut off valve puts it in a location where it is very difficult to service for inspection and cleaning. The filter is not serviced by many mechanics due to this. If you might have a part # and source for the 13.5mm clamp, it would be appreciated.
  13. Hi John, Phil and I are wondering when we'll see you here in Michigan? Thanks for the link to the crash report. I have taken my carb bowls off as required at yearly inspections and recently had the bowls removed for replacement of the carb floats. The floats were defective and had absorbed fuel. My carb bowls are not corroded as yours are. Perhaps your CT sat and had water in the bowls before you bought the plane and this caused the bowls to corrode? I'm thinking the bowls are aluminum and are anodized? If water sets it might eat away the anodizing and then the corrosion cannot be stopped? Or, if they're zinc, the water will corrode the zinc. There is no doubt that alcohol free MoGas (low lead) fuel is best but 91 octane non-alcohol fuel is not nearby. For my use of fuel, I have been using 93 octane "Premium" MoGas since 2009. This has 10% or less alcohol. My carbs have remained clean and have not needed balancing now for the last 5 years. What I also do though, is add 2 oz. Marvel Mystery Oil to every 5 gallons of the MoGas. My mechanic (Helicopter Dave) advised me Marvel Oil will stabilize the fuel and it allows any water that may be in the fuel to be absorbed into the fuel and then passed thru the carb and thru the engine. Don't know if true but I've never found any water in the bowls or in the fuel when I sump and I have had no issues using MoGas all these years. Good photos and discussion on our CT fuel system.
  14. Nice picture of the difference. This has been discussed a lot in previous posts. My vote would be to use DIN hose and make a tight fit at the gascolator. Still would like to see if FD would approve the rework Madhatter suggests.
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