Runtoeat

Good point about it being "us". I'm as guilty as any others for allowing this to happen. Like "boiling the frog". Gradually at first but over the last 20 years, Americans have supported the loss of our manufacturing might. We have allowed big Pharma and important industries to sell out to the foreign countries by allowing our universities and industries to accept huge sums of foreign money to allow intellectual robbery by the foreign students and workers. I feel it's time for myself and all Americans to be prepared to pay what will be a huge bill to incentivize manufacturers to come back to the U.S. and to secure our universities and critical industries in order to regain our independence. I understand competition is what a free market needs but there is no free market when foreign countries run state funded businesses whose business models are based on accepting losses that are passed on to the masses for as long as it takes in order to take over the markets. When profits are finally made after take over, these go to crooked highly paid top members of the State. U.S. companies share profits to the workers.

Gotta put in my 2 cents. I totally agree with Darrell. I'll do whatever it takes to "buy American". If this means driving further or spending more, so be it. I have been guilty of not paying attention to where products are manufactured in the past but the Intellectual theft and industrial espionage being done by foreign countries must be stopped. The last company in the U.S. to make a simple aspirin went overseas in the 1990's. I am actively sending my legislators requests to bring manufacturing back to the U.S. We all not only have a political vote but we can also vote with our dollars. If Rotax wants to expand, they need to bring this to the U.S. I'm thinking we're one of their biggest markets when marine and off road UTV's are included. Our freedom depends on our independence.

Andrew, I'll look for my old post but the full flap take off procedure is basically as Kent and I have described here. Taking off under full flaps on our CT is like going up in an elevator. The rise off of the field is very rapid but forward speed is slowed by the drag. As long as full power remains, and the airplane is kept near the ground until 15 flaps and 60+ knots are achieved, all is good. Before 60 knots and 15 flaps, if power is lost, be near the ground and ready to set down. There are published instances where our Rotax 912 has stopped running on take off but if the CT is properly maintained and one insures that there is sufficient good quality fuel on board, this is rare. Whether doing hi flap take offs or standard take offs, one must always be prepared for engine failure and try to have "plan B" should this occur.

I've posted my technique for using full flaps for takeoff on our forum. This is a useful exercise to do with our CT's and was taught to me by my CFI. Many aircraft don't allow this but our CT's have adequate power to do it. The full flap takeoff is highly usefull "tool" to use for rough or high grass fields and is fun to do. Full power with full flaps allows much shorter distance needed to lift off the ground which results in less stress placed on the landing gear, especially the front strut, in rough terrain. Be aware though that the airplane is under a hi drag configuration. Should there be a loss of power just after lifting off, a stall is very likely to occur. As KentWein has advised, to protect for this, one should keep forward pressure on the stick to keep the nose down and stay near the ground until speed builds sufficient for 15 flaps. This will occur quickly. Once 15 flaps are achieved, pitch for normal climb speed and continue climb out.

Darrell stopped by my airport and I checked out his panel. I had same take as others here but seeing it in real life is even more impressive. Looks totally professional.

Almost forgot about John Vance in Indiana. Think you might be able to join us John?

I have had this noise show up after Fall when the temps drop and when there is old tape on my CT. The tape becomes stiffer when cold. If there's no visable rips or tears, then the tape may have lost it's adhesion to the wing. This was my problem. This condition doesn't show but it allows the tape to lift off the wing and vibrate. First thing to do if one has this "stall horn" hi pitched noise is just remove the tape and see if noise goes away. If so, clean the surface and apply new tape as Roger describes. Should fix the problem. The noise is hi energy and easily comes thru Bose A20's

Putting this on the calendar. Will know more about going when closer to event. It'll be a day trip for me at 2.5 hours away. Let's see if you, Phil and I can get together as flight of 3 Darrell.

See the top hatch is open. Don't see the 'chute.

Thanks for posting. Our CT's are great little travel machines.

Just had the same issue as other members have reported earlier in this thread. Yesterday, while cruising at 5300 rpm in my 2006 CTSW, I noticed I was having intermittent 50 rpm tachometer drops. Engine would run fine and then I could feel the plane slow slightly and see a 50 rpm dropout and then the rpms would come back to normal. Although I was thinking it might be a fuel issue I figured it wouldn't hurt to see if it might be electrical so I did a mag check while in this flight. First went to switch position #2 and had 50 rpm drop. Then back to "1&2" position and back to normal rpm. Then went to switch #1 and got 50 rpm drop then back to "1&2" and back to normal rpm. I did this twice with just the typical 50 rpm drop at each mag. Later in the flight, after continuing to experience the intermittent 50 rpm drops, I decided to do the mag test a third time. Went to position #2 and got the 50 rpm drop. Back to "1&2" and then went to switch position #1. BANG! Complete engine shut down! I quickly went back to position #2 and much to my extreme relief the engine came back to life because the prop was spinning at my speed of 115kts. Figured I wouldn't be stupid enough to try that again so I limped back to my airport hoping my one good mag would remain working properly. Today my mechanic and I did a thorough "P" lead wire and ignition switch "wiggle test" and poked around with ohm meter to see if anything unusual. No problems found in wiring or in the switch. Hoping it would fix my problem, we installed the set of soft start modules I bought 5 years ago that have been kept on the shelf. An engine run up and subsequent test flight after installing the new modules indicates that they fixed this problem. And, not only fixed the problem but the plane does have a better response to throttle and seems to have more power than usual. The important thing to know here is that our modules do not only have the well known and documented "fail to start" problem. They also have a "high rpm failure to run" problem. It is now documented by owners on our forum that modules have failed to work at high rpm. Owners who have early CT's, especially 2006 or 2007 years, with original factory modules might expect to have ignition problems eventually. Hopefully, when failure occurs, only one module will fail and one will remain working long enough to allow them to get back home. Seems I read that the military replaces the modules every 700 hours on the rotax engines used in drone aircraft.

Haven't been on our forum lately. Thanks for answering Poco's question Darrell. The Arcolectric DPDT switch is the same design as the one used by the FD factory.

On LS, there is a rubber pad that can move out of place. Check the area where the gear leg meets the fuselage. I would agree with Andy about noises in a SW. I hear lots of noises coming from gear legs and Matco brakes (rattling) when taxiing my SW, especially if I don't have my headset on.